space engineers can't type on lcd panel supplier

Well first of all, text panels and LCDs are the same, they are IMyTextPanel blocks and thus share the same features, work the same but merely got different names and models.

You have to take ownership over the block in order to change the settings for it. Once you did that you have to change the display text to either public or private and then change the according text fields to contain whatever text you want inside it.

Space Engineers tries to not limit how complex worlds you can create. At certain points you will probably reach the memory limit of your system and won’t be able to add more objects, but that’s the only limit we imposed.

We need you to understand that performance depends on the complexity of your world and the configuration of your computer. Simple worlds run smoothly even on low-end computers, but a more complex world with rich object interactions could overload even high-end computers.

Performance means how smooth the game runs. It is defined by FPS (frames per second) as well. The higher the FPS rating, the smoother the game runs. 60 FPS is great, 30 is good and even 20 is OK. If the game gets below 20, you will start feeling the delay. FPS doesn’t impact the physics simulation. FPS influences only your experience and perceived smoothness.

Armor blocks are cheap on performance. Other block types are a bit more expensive, especially blocks that have some sort of functionality and require electricity. In other words, a simple mother ship made of armor only is better for performance than the same mother ship with hundreds of reactors, thrusters, doors and other objects.

Blocks that are “under development” (they look like scaffolding) – are less performance friendly than fully constructed blocks (they have more polygons and the game can’t do visibility optimizations).

Crashes, penetrations and deformations – the performance will depend on the type of objects colliding. Armors do well but other blocks are more expensive. The shape of the object and its interior impacts performance as well (e.g. a group of small ships parked inside a mother ship that crashed to an asteroid will require some heavy computations).

Don’t build mother ships and stations using small blocks. That would be inefficient. Use small blocks for small ships, and large blocks for mother ships and space stations.

Note: The 64-bit version can increase the amount of objects in a world almost to an unlimited number but it doesn’t mean that it increases the performance. The performance will still depend on the configuration of your system.

After many requests, we have decided to release our internal Replay Tool that we use to create our trailers. It allows you to record the movement and actions of multiple characters in the same world. You can use your video recording software of choice to capture these moments for cinematic purposes! It’s also super useful for epic screenshot creation. The tool allows you to be the director of your own Space Engineers film where you can carefully position and time different engineers with their own specific roles. We are extremely excited to see what the community will create with this!

Important: because it’s an internal tool, it has a very basic user interface and required advanced users to be used. We believe this is OK, because most video creators who would want to use it to create epic cinematic Space Engineers videos are advanced users.

There are now Steam trading cards to collect for Space Engineers! Collect a full set of cards to earn items that help you customize your Steam profile including backgrounds and badges.

There are fourteen new decorative blocks for people who want to buy them and support the development of Space Engineers, which are available on the Space Engineers Steam Store page. Within the package you will get following new blocks:

Beds can preserve characters’ inventory and toolbar while they"re offline and keeps them alive as long as there is oxygen available. Is considered to be the same as the Cryo Chamber Block, except oxygen is used from the environment. Space Engineers don’t work from nine to five, they work whenever they’re needed: day or night, during peace and war. But when it’s time to call it a day, every engineer looks forward to resting in these beds.

Standard and Corner Desks can be used as seats, which allow players to sit on the chair attached to it. Combine these blocks to produce various designs and sizes, creativity has no limitation. Whether designing new schematics or charting a fresh course to another world, desks are essential for any engineer looking to get some work done.

Kitchens are purely decorative. The kitchens in Space Engineers come well-equipped and include stunning visual details. Space Engineers overcome challenges everyday when they’re working on new planets or among the stars.

Planters are purely decorative, but they make outer space a bit warmer by housing life in a special glass container. Build your own garden on the space station. Planters not only help to liven up spaces, but the flora housed inside these capsules also remind many engineers of the homes they’ve left behind in order to explore the universe.

Couchescan be used as seats, so take your time to relax and take a break. You don’t need to always run, fly or work, you can enjoy your cozy room and enjoy the view. The last thing anyone would ever call a Space Engineer is ‘couch potato’, but who wouldn’t like to relax after a hard day’s work on this comfy furniture?

Armory and Armory Lockers can be used to decorate interiors and store weapons, ammunition, tools and bottles; both are small storages (400L), where you can keep your equipment. Space Engineers use lockers in order to ensure that keepsakes from home, toiletries and other items are kept safe.

Toiletscan be used as a seat. The latest and greatest interstellar lavatory technology has made many earth dwellers jealous of the facilities enjoyed by Space Engineers.

Toilet Seat that can be used as a seat and is fit for the creator of the legendary Red Ship; most engineers don’t want to get up after ‘taking care of business’.

Industrial Cockpits are used to control your ships. This industrial cockpit in both small and large grid versions will make your creations look much better. Offering unmatched visibility, the industrial cockpit enables engineers to experience stunning vistas while traversing landscapes and space.

Console blocks project blueprints for downscaled ships and stations, as well as display pictograms or customizable text. They are fantastic functional LCD panels where you can project your creations and show them to your friends. The sleek and crystal clear picture offered by this console allows Space Engineers to display designs and other important information.

*Note to modders: When modding the decorative blocks, copy the current settings and then do the change on top of that. The mod will also include the DLC tag:

Keen Software House needs to stay profitable in order to continue development and support of Space Engineers, and to take risks, to invest into experiments that may not pay off in the short term, and to develop innovative concepts.

Sometimes we have to invest in people, teams, or projects, without knowing if they will work out. You need to give them time. And if you want to have a high bar for innovation, expecting novel things, you need to take the risk.

Why are they high-risk? Because they are hard to do, and usually it takes many iterations until we figure out the right way to do it. It usually takes a few iterations to perfect it. This means that doing water can take a few weeks (if we get it right from the start) or a few years (if we need to experiment, iterate, throw away past experiments, look for specialists in this area, etc). Same for the engine rewrite and AI / living worlds for our games.

A:Actually, even this update isn’t paid. The major part of this update (LCD screens, Replay Tool, new music tracks, smaller improvements) is free for everyone. Only the smaller and not mandatory part is paid - Decorative Pack, which you can purchase here.

A: The way we designed this is that even people who don’t purchase the Decorative Pack can play on servers with people who own the Decorative Pack. Players who don’t own the Decorative Pack won’t be able to build with these new blocks, nor interact with them, but they will be able to view them in-game.

A: To support future development of Space Engineers and other leading-edge projects we plan to work on at Keen Software House. Players kept asking us for something they could buy to support the development of Space Engineers, and the Decorative Pack is a great option for them.

A: Right after Space Engineers left early access and all hot issues were resolved. Most of the work was done by the Art team, the rest of the developers is working on other long-term updates.

A: We want more people to play Space Engineers, which means we must lower the barrier of entry. When the Space Engineers community grows, everyone benefits from this - more content on Workshop, more mods, more new ideas, more people to play with. This means that all non-mandatory features should be optional, so only those who really want them can pay for them. That’s why we decreased the price of Space Engineers, and made the Decorative Pack an optional purchase.

A: Hehe, if you put it this way, it sounds kind of funny. But the reality is that decorative blocks are low-hanging fruit, not a bottleneck towards those other mentioned future features. Additionally, the decorative pack can bring added profit and make the mentioned things happen.

Looking at our upcoming plans, I can say that we are going to work on another package similar to this one. It’s not a secret that we want to bring you more things you asked for in the past, such as new skins, new weapons, new economy system etc.

If you want to let me know your feedback on our decision to release paid Decorative Pack, please get in touch via my personal email address marek.rosa@keenswh.com. I welcome every feedback and we will use it to learn and provide better service.

Do you want your Arduino projects to display status messages or sensor readings? Then these LCD displays can be a perfect fit. They are extremely common and fast way to add a readable interface to your project.

This tutorial will help you get up and running with not only 16×2 Character LCD, but any Character LCD (16×4, 16×1, 20×4 etc.) that is based on Hitachi’s LCD Controller Chip – HD44780.

When current is applied to these crystals, they become opaque, blocking the backlight that resides behind the screen. As a result that particular area will be dark compared to the others. And this is how the characters are displayed on the screen.

True to their name, these LCDs are ideal for displaying only text/characters. A 16×2 character LCD, for example, has an LED backlight and can display 32 ASCII characters in two rows of 16 characters each.

If you look closely you can see tiny rectangles for each character on the display and the pixels that make up a character. Each of these rectangles is a grid of 5×8 pixels.

The good news is that all of these displays are ‘swappable’, which means if you build your project with one you can just unplug it and use another size/color LCD of your choice. Your code will have to change a bit but at least the wiring remains the same!

Vo (LCD Contrast) controls the contrast and brightness of the LCD. Using a simple voltage divider with a potentiometer, we can make fine adjustments to the contrast.

RS (Register Select) pin is set to LOW when sending commands to the LCD (such as setting the cursor to a specific location, clearing the display, etc.) and HIGH when sending data to the LCD. Basically this pin is used to separate the command from the data.

R/W (Read/Write) pin allows you to read data from the LCD or write data to the LCD. Since we are only using this LCD as an output device, we are going to set this pin LOW. This forces it into WRITE mode.

E (Enable) pin is used to enable the display. When this pin is set to LOW, the LCD does not care what is happening on the R/W, RS, and data bus lines. When this pin is set to HIGH, the LCD processes the incoming data.

D0-D7 (Data Bus) pins carry the 8 bit data we send to the display. For example, if we want to see an uppercase ‘A’ character on the display, we set these pins to 0100 0001 (as per the ASCII table).

Now we will power the LCD. The LCD has two separate power connections; One for the LCD (pin 1 and pin 2) and the other for the LCD backlight (pin 15 and pin 16). Connect pins 1 and 16 of the LCD to GND and 2 and 15 to 5V.

Most LCDs have a built-in series resistor for the LED backlight. You’ll find this near pin 15 on the back of the LCD. If your LCD does not include such a resistor or you are not sure if your LCD has one, you will need to add one between 5V and pin 15. It is safe to use a 220 ohm resistor, although a value this high may make the backlight a bit dim. For better results you can check the datasheet for maximum backlight current and select a suitable resistor value.

Next we will make the connection for pin 3 on the LCD which controls the contrast and brightness of the display. To adjust the contrast we will connect a 10K potentiometer between 5V and GND and connect the potentiometer’s center pin (wiper) to pin 3 on the LCD.

That’s it. Now turn on the Arduino. You will see the backlight lit up. Now as you turn the knob on the potentiometer, you will start to see the first row of rectangles. If that happens, Congratulations! Your LCD is working fine.

Let’s finish connecting the LCD to the Arduino. We have already made the connections to power the LCD, now all we have to do is make the necessary connections for communication.

We know that there are 8 data pins that carry data to the display. However, HD44780 based LCDs are designed in such a way that we can communicate with the LCD using only 4 data pins (4-bit mode) instead of 8 (8-bit mode). This saves us 4 pins!

8-bit mode is much faster than 4-bit mode because it takes half the time. In 8-bit mode you write the data in one go. Whereas in 4-bit mode you have to split a byte into 2 nibbles and perform two write operations.

4-bit mode is often used to save I/O pins. However, 8-bit mode is best used when speed is required in an application and there are at least 10 I/O pins available.

The sketch begins by including the LiquidCrystal library. The Arduino community has a library called LiquidCrystal which makes programming of LCD modules less difficult. You can find more information about the library on Arduino’s official website.

First we create a LiquidCrystal object. This object uses 6 parameters and specifies which Arduino pins are connected to the LCD’s RS, EN, and four data pins.

In the ‘setup’ we call two functions. The first function is begin(). It is used to specify the dimensions (number of columns and rows) of the display. If you are using a 16×2 character LCD, pass the 16 and 2; If you’re using a 20×4 LCD, pass 20 and 4. You got the point!

After that we set the cursor position to the second row by calling the function setCursor(). The cursor position specifies the location where you want the new text to be displayed on the LCD. The upper left corner is assumed to be col=0, row=0.

There are some useful functions you can use with LiquidCrystal objects. Some of them are listed below:lcd.home() function is used to position the cursor in the upper-left of the LCD without clearing the display.

lcd.scrollDisplayRight() function scrolls the contents of the display one space to the right. If you want the text to scroll continuously, you have to use this function inside a for loop.

lcd.scrollDisplayLeft() function scrolls the contents of the display one space to the left. Similar to above function, use this inside a for loop for continuous scrolling.

If you find the characters on the display dull and boring, you can create your own custom characters (glyphs) and symbols for your LCD. They are extremely useful when you want to display a character that is not part of the standard ASCII character set.

As discussed earlier in this tutorial a character is made up of a 5×8 pixel matrix, so you need to define your custom character within that matrix. You can use the createChar() function to define a character.

To use createChar() you first set up an array of 8 bytes. Each byte in the array represents a row of characters in a 5×8 matrix. Whereas, 0 and 1 in a byte indicate which pixel in the row should be ON and which should be OFF.

CGROM is used to store all permanent fonts that are displayed using their ASCII codes. For example, if we send 0x41 to the LCD, the letter ‘A’ will be printed on the display.

CGRAM is another memory used to store user defined characters. This RAM is limited to 64 bytes. For a 5×8 pixel based LCD, only 8 user-defined characters can be stored in CGRAM. And for 5×10 pixel based LCD only 4 user-defined characters can be stored.

Creating custom characters has never been easier! We have created a small application called Custom Character Generator. Can you see the blue grid below? You can click on any 5×8 pixel to set/clear that particular pixel. And as you click, the code for the character is generated next to the grid. This code can be used directly in your Arduino sketch.

Your imagination is limitless. The only limitation is that the LiquidCrystal library only supports eight custom characters. But don’t be discouraged, look at the bright side, at least we have eight characters.

In setup we need to create custom character using createChar() function. This function takes two parameters. The first parameter is a number between 0 and 7 to reserve one of the 8 supported custom characters. The second is the name of the array.

The various LCD Panel blocks are a great way to add a human touch to a ship or base by displaying useful images or text. For LCD configuration and usage, see LCD Surface Options.

Note: Some functional blocks, such as Cockpits, Programmable Blocks, Custom Turret Controllers, and Button Panels, have customizable LCD surfaces built in that work the same way as LCD Panel blocks, which are also discussed in detail under LCD Surface Options.

LCD Panels need to be built on a powered grid to work. Without power, they display an "Offline" text. While powered without having a text, image, or script set up, they display "Online".

LCD Panel blocks come in a variety of sizes from tiny to huge (see list below) and are available for large and small grid sizes. Note that LCD Panel blocks all have connections on their backs, and very few also on a second side.

All LCD Panels and LCD surfaces work with the same principle: They are capable of displaying dynamic scripts, or few inbuilt static images accompanied by editable text. Access the ship"s Control Panel Screen to configure LCD Panels or LCD surfaces; or face the LCD Panel block and press "K".

A Text Panel, despite its name, can also display images. On large grid, it is rectangular and does not fully cover the side of a 1x1x1 block. On small grid it is 1x1x1, the smallest possible LCD block in game.

On large grid, you choose the Text Panel when you need something that has rectangular dimensions that make it look like a wall-mounted TV or computer screen. If you want to display images, this one works best with the built-in posters whose names end in "H" or "V" (for horizontal or vertical rotation). On Small grid, you place these tiny display surfaces so you can see them well while seated in a cockpit or control seat, to create a custom display array of flight and status information around you.

Corner LCDs are much smaller display panels that typically hold a few lines of text. They don"t cover the block you place them on and are best suited as signage for doors, passages, or containers. They are less suitable for displaying images, even though it"s possible. If you enable the "Keep aspect ratio" option, the image will take up less than a third of the available space.

These huge Sci-Fi LCD Panels come in sizes of 5x5, 5x3, and 3x3 blocks, and can be built on large grids only. These panels are only available to build if you purchase the "Sparks of the Future" pack DLC.

They work the same as all other LCD Panels, the only difference is that they are very large. In the scenario that comes with the free "Sparks of the Future" update, they are used prominently as advertisement boards on an asteroid station.

This LCD panel can be built on large and small grids. The transparent LCD is basically a 1x1x1 framed window that displays images and text. It is part of the paid "Decorative Blocks Pack #2" DLC.

What is special about them is that if you set the background color to black, this panel becomes a transparent window with a built-in display. In contrast to other LCD Panels it has no solid backside, which makes it ideal to construct transparent cockpit HUDs, or simply as cosmetic decoration.

While configuring an LCD Panel, the GUI covers up the display in-world and you can"t see how the text or images comes out. In the UI Options, you can lower the UI Background opacity to be translucent, so you can watch what you are doing more easily.

Restart the computer. This is a classic troubleshooting step because it often works. It closes other processes that might be interfering with your monitor"s performance and gives you a clean slate from which to proceed.

Change the screen resolution. If the second monitor"s display is blurry, pixelated, distorted, or discolored—or if it"s duplicating the primary display—check the computer"s display settings. If the frame rate or resolution is incorrect, adjust it there.

Adjust the scaling settings. If the windows display in different sizes on different monitors in Windows 10, adjust the scaling settings. The recommended setting will match the apparent window size across monitors as closely as possible.

Fix discoloration and color accuracy. (On macOS, use display calibration.) If the computer"s settings don"t fix the problem, use a hardware calibration device, or adjust the monitor"s color settings, gamma, and brightness settings in the monitor"s on-screen menu. Every monitor is different, but Coloror Display Depth are the typical terms.

Other causes of color issues include different display panels, backlights, technologies, and age. If you need an exact match, consider professional-grade photo-editing monitors.

Adjust the monitor"s refresh rate. Monitors are built to work at particular refresh rates. If your computer doesn"t send a signal at one of those supported rates, there"s a chance the monitor won"t display the signal.

Swap out the current cable. A bad cable is the most common culprit when the monitor shows artifacts or no picture at all. Very long and poorly shielded cables are especially prone to interference.

Good cables don"t need to cost a fortune. Gold-plated connectors and oxygen-free copper don"t provide any noticeable differences in image quality. However, poorly constructed cables can lead to issues. Purchase a cable from a trusted manufacturer. Monoprice offers an excellent combination of affordability and reliable quality.

Try the cable in alternate ports on the PC, the display, or both. Change only one at a time, so you can pinpoint which ports caused the problem. If your PC doesn"t have a second compatible port, connect the monitor to a different computer to see if it works and to help pinpoint the problem.

Make sure the cable supports the correct version of the display standard. HDMI cables can support anything from HDMI 1.0, which provides minimal support, to HDMI 2.1, which can support the highest resolutions, color spaces, and audio channels.

USB-C and Thunderbolt monitors are even more confusing because the cables are physically interchangeable but not cross-compatible. DVI, meanwhile, has multiple versions, and it"s possible to plug an incompatible DVI cable into a computer or monitor.

Check the cable"s documentation on the manufacturer"s website to find the latest display connection version supported by the cable. If the cable doesn"t support your display, replace it with a cable that does. Additionally, check the appearance of the connectors on the cable, computer, and monitors to ensure they"re compatible.

Remove any switches or converters from the signal chain. If the cable has HDMI on one end and DVI on the other, try a cable that has the same connector on both ends. If possible, remove or replace dongles and switches temporarily. If the simpler connection works, the removed device is to blame.

Try a different display interface. For example, if the second monitor is currently connected over HDMI, use Display Port instead. This can accomplish a few things. If the current interface can"t drive all the pixels in the second monitor, switching to a different interface can fix that problem.

Based on capability, common display connectors can be ranked in this order: DisplayPort, HDMI, DVI, Thunderbolt, USB-C, VGA. Unless you must use a VGA connection for legacy compatibility, avoid it; it cannot properly drive modern displays. Also, there are multiple versions of HDMI, DVI, and USB-C. Just because you can plug a cable into a port doesn"t mean you"ll have full compatibility.

Update the computer"s display drivers. If you have a third-party discrete graphics card, update the drivers from the manufacturer. If you plug the monitor into the motherboard"s display connectors, visit the motherboard or computer manufacturer"s website to check for updated drivers for those features.

Lower the image quality. If the monitor suffers from a poor frame rate, choppiness, or corrupted video or game content, reducing the signal"s complexity can help. For games, try the lowest-quality settings first, then gradually improve the quality until the issue reappears. For video content, try a lower resolution or a less demanding frame rate.

Check the power connections. If the monitor doesn"t turn on, try different power connectors or wall outlets. Test wall outlets with other devices before plugging in the monitor to ensure those devices work properly.

Check the monitor"s input settings. If the monitor has multiple input interfaces, make sure you have the correct one selected in the monitor"s on-screen menu. Most monitors have an auto-detect feature that automatically switches to the connector receiving the signal. When that doesn"t work, set the display connector manually.

Make sure the monitor can display the content sent to it. Does the monitor have sufficient color gamut, resolution, or bit depth to display the content properly? Consult the monitor"s documentation or the monitor manufacturer"s website.

If none of these steps fix the problem, you might need to replace the monitor. If you see colored lines, black or colored points, or cracks in the image, the monitor"s panel might be damaged and require replacement. These display issues can be fixed similarly on macOS.

Kourou, December 13, 2022 – The MTG-I1 weather satellite, built by prime contractor Thales Alenia Space, the joint company between Thales (67%) and Leonardo (33%),...

Kia flew us out to wine and “winding road” country to test the new EV6, which is coming a bit late to the US, as it’s been out for a while in its native Korea and Europe already. So that means I’ve had months to digest the information about the car, its characteristics, and its place in the industry. But nothing beats a test drive through the mountains with fellow EV nerd and former Electrek writer Brad Berman to get to know a car intimately.

We’ve known what the EV6 would look like, but in person, it seems a lot larger than the images and video portray. The seats are lifted off the ground and it is quite easy to get into and out of for those with bad backs or knees. There is also plenty of room for 6’5″ adults in the back. That said, it is probably the most sedan-like of the CUVs on the road.

Most of the car’s design is universally liked, if not loved, with the rear being somewhat polarizing. Initially, I didn’t love the backend but after seeing it in person, it definitely grew on me. There’s a certain quirky Citroën vibe to it and I’m here for it. Hidden on the rear passenger side corner is the CCS Combo charge port hidden by a touch-activated door.

From a driving perspective, the front hood is small and much like Tesla’s Model 3/Y, you have great visibility to the ground in front of you without a big front hood in your way. Here, that translates to a small frunk, which we’ll talk more about later, but there is lots of space in the back – much more than a Jaguar i-Pace for instance, which might be the closest analog of the EV6.

Doors are relatively normal in the spectrum of EV weirdness, when you approach the vehicle the door handles present themselves. Otherwise the handles go flat. It is a good compromise between aerodynamics and convenience. There’s even a keyhole behind the handle in case you are Fred Flintstone.

Just like the Hyundai Ioniq 5, the Kia EV6 has two big side-by-side displays, but using them for the first time is a little bit jarring. The left display is filled with graphics that look like a gaming PC when in sport mode (which is likely “most of the time”) and isn’t information rich. It is a little less cluttered in other modes. The center display is a bit better, especially when CarPlay and Android Auto are introduced.

Kia had us use their own mapping software for the trip, and I found it to be harder to follow than Android or iOS options. These UX factors are things that will likely grow on EV6 owners, but hopefully Kia will also do some OTA updates.

One thing I loved is the automatic side cameras when turn signals were invoked as well as surround-view when backing out of a parking space. Also, it is always nice to have CarPlay and Android Auto. But probably the thing as a Tesla driver I like most was the heads-up display. It doesn’t have to be fancy, and Kia’s isn’t, but damn if it doesn’t make driving a whole lot easier.

I am torn on the bottom display/knobs situation, which changes from HVAC to music as you switch on the other displays. I’m going to need more time with this to have the full picture. As with most rides in California, heating and AC weren’t a big factor.

There are a ton of nuances to the EV6’s E-GMP game-changing 800V charging system which can theoretically max out at 250kW. Kia touts going from 10% to 80% or 210-miles charge in 18 minutes, or adding 62 miles of range in 5 minutes. Obviously, that’s under very optimal conditions, but it’s also an amazing new benchmark for the industry.

The EV6 doesn’t come with a Level 1 or 2 charging cable, for better or worse. Talking to the team I think the thinking is, why add a $1,000 part and the complexity associated with it when people might already have a charging station at home, might not have a garage, and/or could probably pick one designed best for them for a cheaper price at an online retailer. For someone like me that has like five different EV chargers at the house already, that makes sense, but as a first-time EV buyer, it adds significant complexity to getting an EV. Throwing in a$200 charge cable would make a lot of sense. For what it is worth, the overwhelming majority, 1219 out of 1500, of the EV6 First Editions opted for a charging cable (over a charge credit or Apple Watch) when given the choice of the three.

The onboard AC charging station charges at 240V/ 48A 11.5kW, which is great if your house or L2 charger is capable of it. Many L2 chargers are rated at 32A, which will yield a much slower charging time.

We tried charging at the one DC fast charging location on route (found via Plugshare) and it connected but never started charging. This was a weird free (?!) 100kW DC fast charging station without any branding that looked like it was used for municipal vehicles.

Others were able to plug into Electrify America station in Santa Rosa about a half-hour from the hotel and get a decent but nowhere near optimal charge. My recommendation to the Kia folks is to plan on having a fast charging stop on the route next time, that’s what our readers want to know about!

Kia appears to be on the verge of an announcement of a partnership with EA or another vendor like EVGO but hasn’t announced anything yet. Since sibling Hyundai is with EA, that’s where I’d put my money.

The charge port is located in the back passenger corner, so hopefully customers will like backing into your charging stations. Also, that area can get dirty.

The Frunk is just a bit bigger than glove box size and looks like an afterthought – like a Pelican case shoved into a motor bay. It is a box with an additional door inside the front bonnet. I think maybe you could squeeze a portable EV Charger or a fix-a-flat kit in here, and for those uses it makes sense. Because you have to open two doors to get in and with its diminutive size, I don’t think people will use this for everyday items, though you could fit a purse or very small backpack in here. Or you could hide a laptop or other valuables in a high-crime area. In the image above, Kia’s charging port plug adapter is shown.

Kia was nice enough to give us about 90 minutes behind the wheel of both the AWD and RWD models. Our first leg was with the AWD version and, once put into sport mode, we were impressed with the (at least) five second 0-60 acceleration, handling, and performance.

Both cars enjoy low road noise and adequate but slightly soft handling. Cornering feels much better in the AWD version, though that might have been a factor of the bigger wheels. The acceleration and handling in the 77.4/225hp RWD Wind version was lacking, so I imagine the Light version with its smaller 58kWh/167-hp battery is going to be downright slow. I think the sweet spot here is the 320-hp Wind AWD at $50.9K.

But the confusingly-named (since the “GT-Line” is named above) Kia EV6 GT is the one I want. It will be released later this year and have a 430kW (576hp)/740 Nm torque set of motors enabling a sub-3.5 second 0-60 time. Oh, and a 162mph top speed. Not your dad’s Kia!

Kia says that the power out of the charge port is limited to 1.9kW, which is still an impressive amount of power that can charge e-bikes, run campsites with projectors, or even slowly charge another EV. However, the European version of this adapter spits out up to 3.8kW (same amperage but at 220V). I was told that Kia wasn’t aware if this functionality was going to be available in the US, but the hardware was obviously capable.

Kia should really take a second look here. A 3.6kW or higher output is the kind of power that can keep a home powered in the event of a power outage. Ford blew people’s minds when it showed the F-150 powering a home off-grid or a worksite. There is nothing stopping the E-GMP platform from doing similar but at half scale. A 240V to generator plug turns this thing into a$1,000 generator replacement, which many homes are already wired for.

We didn’t get a proper demo of the Kia Connect system, but it looks pretty impressive with an Apple Watch app being my favorite bit. I look forward to demoing this in a longer time span.

Also, I love that Kia is sharing its Wi-Fi connection (for a price of course). People often ask why use a car’s internet connection when we have a phone on us at all times?

The answer is that car modem and antenna power/hardware are much more robust and can pull in and use a weaker signal at faster connection speeds. We got to see this first hand at one of the stops where neither of our phones could get a signal but the car was still getting robust data.

We were driving on mostly curvy roads, which weren’t a great demo opportunity for the driver-assistance features. Often the turns were too sharp and the car would just start beeping and veer into oncoming traffic.

I’m sure this functions much better on highways, where our very brief encounter was positive. This is a capable traffic-aware cruise control with lane assist. Also, it lets us keep our hands off the wheel for quite some time before beeping, for better or worse. Kia says:

Blind-Spot Avoidance Assist (BCA): Under certain conditions, can detect vehicles traveling in the next lane. When a vehicle is detected in the blind spot, the vehicle brakes the outer wheel under certain conditions to help return the vehicle to its lane

Forward Collision-Avoidance Assist (FCA): Assists the driver when braking to help prevent a collision or lessen the effects in certain conditions if a vehicle is detected in front. Uses automatic braking to avoid or mitigate an impact

Other standard iterations of FCA include FCA-Ped (Pedestrian), FCA-LS (Lane-Change Side), FCA-LO (Lane-Change Oncoming), FCA-JC (Junction Crossing), FCA-JT (Junction Turning)

Highway Driving Assist II (HDA 2)15: This system is the evolution of HDA, which is a driving convenience system that keeps a set distance from a car in front and centers the vehicle in the lane. HDA2 will additionally assist with lane changes and adjust the lateral position of the car within the lane

Navigation Based Smart Cruise Control-Curve (NSCC-C): Leverages the navigation system to lower the vehicle’s speed proactively before upcoming curves in the road

Rear Cross-Traffic Collision Avoidance Assist (RCCA): Helps detect most approaching cross traffic when in reverse. When approaching cross traffic is detected, the system alerts the driver and applies the brakes

I must be crazy to think that all EV drivers just want one-pedal driving. Kia offers five different levels of braking modes activated by the steering wheel paddles. I immediately switched to “I-Pedal” and never looked back

Regen is strong, I’d put it up there with the Chevy Bolt, and can eliminate the use of the traditional friction bakes altogether. You can activate the I-Pedal level regen at any time from the left paddle by holding it down.

For those who like to coast more, especially on long trips, you have the option of choosing zero to four levels of regening. Additionally, Kia will throw in some blended regen when you hit the friction brakes giving even those who prefer traditional two pedal braking some of the benefits of recuperation (like lower brake wear and increased range).

I was overwhelmingly impressed by the E-GMP-based Kia EV6. Features like Vehicle-to-Load (V2L), 800V/18 minute charging, and just being a damn good driving machine make this a big recommendation for people looking for a new EV. It also looks great and has plenty of room.

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The Wide LCD Panel is a long thin panel that takes the entire face of two blocks and can display a variety of messages and textures that can be displayed constantly or triggered by the Programmable Block, Sensor, Timer Block, or any other block capable of triggering.

To access its settings, select it and pressing the "T" or "K" key. Selecting it and pressing "K", the "K-menu" is entered. The panel"s title and text can be made public, private, or a combination of both. Textures applied can be selected from a list or custom textures can be selected. Textures can be set to rotate on a timer, changing from one to the next. GPS coordinates shown in the GPS format in the text panel will appear in the GPS and can be activated (=shown on HUD).

The LCD Panel could be accessed with the programmable block as IMyTextPanel. It could work in ´Texture Mode´ in which the selected textures are shown or the ´Text Mode´ in which the text is shown. The following methods are available:

This website is using a security service to protect itself from online attacks. The action you just performed triggered the security solution. There are several actions that could trigger this block including submitting a certain word or phrase, a SQL command or malformed data.

We tested the 65-inch Hisense A6 Series, and our results are also valid for the 43-inch, 55-inch, and 75-inch models. The 50-inch model is a bit different, as it uses a different panel type from the 65-inch we"ve tested. This results in much better contrast and dark room performance, but a worse viewing angle. There are also some minor differences in the inputs between the 43, 50, and 55-inch models and the 65 and 75-inch models. The smaller sizes have three HDMI inputs, but they have a full-sized composite input with dedicated audio and video ports. The larger sizes have four HDMI ports, but they require an adapter for composite inputs, which is sold separately.