cr 10 lcd screen free sample

This slip-on LCD Screen Cover allows you to print overnight without the blinding effects of the CR-10 screen illuminating the entire room. This was a problem for me because, due to the limited space of my 3-person apartment, my printer is housed in my bedroom. The cover also conveniently fits on top of your control box when not in use while leaving the USB and Micro SD ports accessible.

When using 15% infill, a slight amount of light allows the cover to have a subtle glow. This gives a pretty neat lithophane effect. The amount of light that shows through can obviously be altered by increasing infill or using a darker color filament, although the setup in which I printed doesn"t allow enough light through to even notice.

For printing with no supports and optimal light blocking, position the cover upside down on the print bed so the control knob cutout is facing upwards. This orients the infill parallel to the screen and perpendicular to the emitted light.

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I modified gcodestat to add M117 codes into the g-code. The frequency of the M117 commands is controlled by -s or --percent_step value so -s 10 will give you 100%, 90%, 80% ... codes, if you go with -s 1 you will get 100%, 99%, 98%... (default is 10)

Thank you a lot!!! Working wonderfully. Why is the temperature is limited to 240 only? I used 260 for my PETG before on CR10-v3 Titanium Extruder, and now it’s limited to 240.

I also recently got a BL touch from Creality and it kept bugging me that it had the V2 label instead of V3 (Just one of little details that makes a big difference haha) I tried downloading their source code, but then realised the status screen uses an image and not text for the top left corner.

I was just curious, have you had any issues with the power recovery feature with this firmware? I was doing some searching of v1 vs v2 and it seems Marlin 2 uses more memory than v1 and on a few boards Marlin v2 doesn’t work correctly due to memory requirements. What I can’t seem to work out is if the V3 has an 8-bit board or not, as I found it strange that Creality was still using v1 on new printers. Thought perhaps this could have been a factor. (or they got lazy haha)

The last version I compiled without BLTouch Support was 2.0.8.2 which can be downloaded from here: https://git.pickysysadmin.ca/FiZi/cr-10-v3-marlin-config/-/releases/2.0.8.2

Firstly, thanks for the pre-compiled. Saved me a lot of time in figuring out how to compiled i myself. While testing the resume on power failure feature, the screen went berserk and was showing weird large chinese characters. I realized the ‘The POWER_LOSS_RECOVERY’ flag is not uncommented in Configuration_adv.h. Would you please uncomment it and compile a build! This would be much appreciated.

thank you for this nice work and the constructive discussion! Most likely I will buy myself today an CR-10 V3 printer, and I will be able to follow up more with you.

Now that I’ve worked out the kinks in my CR-10 V3 and learned enough to troubleshoot basic printing problems I’m definitely happy with it. Should I have bought a Prusa instead? Maybe.

I have upgraded my current Marlin 2.0.5 (that was having some jerk issues), with your latest https://git.pickysysadmin.ca/FiZi/cr-10-v3-marlin-config/-/releases/2.0.7.2_2020-11-10-1103, thru the Mattercontrol firmware updater. Fw upload went ok, the LCD is working and I can pester with settings.

I use the ‘Firmware Updater‘ plugin in Octoprint to load up my firmware. I’ve yet to run into any issues like you described. Worst case I’ve had to power cycle/unplug/plug my printer to get it to be recognized again. I have yet to have to revert but obviously your mileage may vary.

I also had a problem where my print head was being dragged across the print even with z-hop enabled and a very generous hop value. I ended up solving the problem (I think) by re-leveling my X arm. It was slightly lower on one side.

I think we have a slightly different printer – I have the CR-10 V2 + Creality BLTouch; so a simple firmware drop-in would not work, I will prolly need to recompile from the basic; each toolchain I’m trying seems to have some bug at a certain step, I’m a bit p!ssed.

Lost filament runout abilities after installing Octoprint with original firmware. I really didn’t want to wire it directly to the Raspberry Pi as I thought it shouldn’t be necessary. Doing some research on Marlin 2.0 firmware I ran across your Reddit thread. I really haven’t seen anyone else attempt this yet for our particular printer and I don’t think it would be something I’d attempt on my own at this time. I made some adjustments to align the print with the bed properly and adjusted speed and distant values for the filament change in the advanced park feature (G600). I also adjusted the Park Point to my liking and of course changed Probe Z offset values to match my setup and including the probe to bed offset in that part.

Hey guys, fantastic work here. I do have some questions. I have a brand new cr-10 v3 which I promptly upgraded with an authentic BLTouch. However, when trying your firmware I get a VERY strange sound from the z-stepper motors. I can manually move them via pronter, or disabled with no sound or issues. However, during print it occurs. Also after about 4 or 5 layers the z- appears to not be raising anymore or correctly as the nozzel begins dragging through the spent filament. I have rolled back to the cr-10 v2 w/ bltouch software on the website and the issue resolves. Any ideas what this could be?

I did have a similar issue but I didn’t think it was firmware related. I ended up re-leveling my z axis and I believe that cleared things up for me. I haven’t had any nozzle scraping since then.

I’ve done a bunch of tinkering and managed prints to cooperate rather nicely using your firmware, it was related to the x crossbar. I have narrowed down the weird goose honking (best I can describe). It is related to the titan direct drive. Once I noticed and figured it out it can been seen on every retraction. I will take it apart later today and see if I can lubricate anything or decipher the exact cause. This is my first go with a titan. I have 2 other micro-swiss direct drives on ender 3 pro machines.

Hi guys. See lot is going on here and i appreciate your work. I bouth CR-10 V3 last month (2020.11) and upgrade it with BL touch that i get from creality store. From then till now only troubles began and i have enough of it and i want to go to stock firmware (with V3 logo) so i can sold that stupid machine. Does any body have that firmware because i can not find it on web. Thank you in advance.

With the Creality BL-Touch firmware the pressure was very bad. No matter what settings I tried. I wanted to remove the BL-Touch again, but with the Marlin firmware with Eric’s configuration my CR-10 prints really well. I just had to compile the firmware myself, because I couldn’t get a connection to the printer. Baud rate is 250000 and i need 115200.

thank you for a replay. I will definitely send an email to Creality and ask for .hex file, but because i made my mind to sold the “thing” i would like to be stock firmware onboard. Thank you all again. Regards..

Great work. I’m a relative noob to 3D printing but I’m learning fast, I have CR-10 V3 and your 2.0.7. it works pretty well for me so far (I won’t have exercised a good deal of it yet I’m sure).

The image I added is defined in _Statusscreen.h. You take a bitmap image and convert it to binary and then copy/paste that into the blob of text around line 39.

Just a very quick note, I may be unique but, for Octoprint 1.5.2 with Marlin 2.0.7.2 running on a CR 10 V3 with a 2.5.2 mainboard – I needed to uncomment:

I flashed my CR-10 V3 with 2.0.7.2_2020-11-10-1103-BLTouch.hex. I auto home and use move Z axis to find the z-offset point. But it doesn’t allow me to move Z below 0.00. Moving it up above 0.00 is fine. Any idea what caused this and how to overcome this limitation ?

I’ll try again with your suggestion. The Z limiting switch has been removed after I installed BLTouch. I was able to move Z below zero with the Creality firmware. Thanks.

I checked my Configuration.h file and both are enabled. Why your CR-10 defaults to M211 S1 and mine (and others) are defaulting to M211 S0? I don’t know.

Hi! Thanks a lot for the compiled files!!! I used your 2.0.7.2_2020-11-10-1103.hex in my cr-10 v3 and it works great except the power outrage feature. Except enabling in the LCD screen is there anything else i should do? Thanks!!!!

I found the solution. I compiled the latest Marlin bugfix2.x branch and i used the configuration files for cr-10 v2 and followed your instructions in github how to enable power loss recovery and also the stuff for the direct driver and filament sensor and it worked. i just commented some stuff about the bltouch because i don’t have one. Thanks

I’m hitting a non-starter sadly. My printer (on my 3rd V3 from amazon due to mechanical defects) didn’t come with a bootloader installed. Did yours? I have the TH3D bootloader kit and was following his wonderful tutorial, but my creality board (V2.5.2 with a 2560 chip) does not receive power and there is not a power jumper on the board that I can find. Did you run into this issue and if so do you know how to solve it?

Hey Eric, thanks for the great firmware. I’ve been using it on my CR-10 V2 with the titan and bltouch upgrade. However i was wondering why the E steps/mms was set to 415? Creality themselfs say that 382.14 is recommended. And i do get better results with that setting.

Thanks for pulling this together. Major improvement over the Creality CR 10V3 BL Touch Firmware. I’m new to my CR10 and BL Touch and hope you can help me fix my current issue. I run the autolevel 25pt check using my LCD, save settings or M500 in Octo terminal. I have already set my Z offset in the middle (my case is approx -2.1) and saved too. My issue arises when I’m doing large prints, think like a plate or dish. I can see in the print that the bed isn’t level as I am too close in some spots and too far in others. I thought the bed leveling would measure and account for this….did I do something wrong?

Sorry I can’t really provide that level of support. There are tons of resources on YouTube and the CR-10 subreddit might be a good starting place: https://www.reddit.com/r/cr10/

Hello… I just received my CR10 v3 printer with the titan extruder. I had 2 or 3 good prints and now it will not print. It looks like the filament is not sticking to the bed, but on further inspection, it looks like the extruder pulls away from the bed when the print starts. I do the normal level process, so the setup is good to start, it just looks like it pulls away. Would the automatic bed levelling kit fix this problem? I am truly at a loss to figure out what is happening with my prints.

Unfortunately this level of troubleshooting is beyond me. I would suggest posting on the CR-10 subreddit or contacting the store you originally purchased from.

Checking the advanced config file for the firmware I build line 3482 (https://git.pickysysadmin.ca/FiZi/cr-10-v3-marlin-config/-/blob/master/Configuration_adv.h#L3482) has “#define NO_WORKSPACE_OFFSETS” defined. That means M428 is disabled.

Any clues on why after installing the precompiled hex, the printer shows “motion” instead of the “prepare” menu? tried off/on, hotend hot and extruder +10mm, nothing… i am missing something?

How can I update the firmware on The cr-10 V3. I have tried different usb wires and my computer still does not recognize the Cr-10. I have tried on both mac and windows. Also my Auto home has issues with the bed. Please help.

I purchased a CR-10 V3 with e3d direct drive as well installed CR-touch cuz people say its better than BL touch but now im finding very limited support on CR-touch and kinda regret it. Even the Cr-10 V3 has very limited outdated support from creality.

I honestly do not know. You could always try the firmware and report back. I suspected the CR Touch is just a re-branded BL Touch but I could be wrong.

Tried it, so far so good. Made a few simple prints but my nozzle scratchd a tiny piece of the bed, either the bed became out of calibration or the CR-touch is just bad. Keep you posted.

bonjour je vient vers vous car jai une cr10v3 et j’ai un message qui s’affiche a l’écran : heating failed PRINTER HALTED please reset . jai changer ma sonde de température mais rien ne fonctionne et quand jallume l’imprimante la buse es toujour a 130 ° et le plateau a 36 °. pouvez vous maider a reparer ceci . merci beaucoup .

I just wanted to write a quick note of thanks for the work you put into this and for maintaining it. I updated my CR-10 V3 from 1.1.6 to 2.0.9.2 in under 20 minutes last night. I’ll also be throwing a few quid in your tip jar, so hopefully you can get yourself a pint or two.

Today i tried to upgrade my CR-10 V3 (with BLTouch) and installed the new BigTreeTech SKR E3 Mini v3 (https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3) but BigTreeTech only serves sample config files for the CR-10. So i had to compile Marlin by myself. The example files are not fully tested i guess… so i had to edit and activate some settings but there are bugs after all…

Thank you so much for the firmware. I installed it last night and it is so much better than the stock Creality has. I am using the CR Touch and it works perfect. It came with a metal bracket that fits perfect. I have mine set to (X45.00 Y0.00 Z-1.05).

I have noticed the motors seem a bit louder with your firmware than the stock one. Its not crazy, but with the silent fan mod, they are more noticeable.

The line: #define LCD_Bed_Leveling shows up just above the following paragragh, before I configure for CR 10 V3 printer. After I do the configuration, that line has disappeared

I do not know much about the CR Touch but I don’t see any specific mention of it in the Marlin firmware so they might just be treating it as a BL Touch in which case my BL Touch firmware should work for you.

I wish creality posted the config files for their firmware so we could compare what is different that makes the motors a little louder now. I did the silent fan mod and the motors are now the loudest part of the print.

Do it has the mesh bed leveling active? That option on screen for bed level that has 4 (or more) defined points to do a manual level without the need of using the move axis option that takes a lot of time and that is one of the main reasons that I want to change the FW.

I am going to say outright, I am a 3D printing noob, cr10 v3 is my first printer and is giving me a headache with my first layer (Maybe its a badly warped bed), thats why i decided to use your version of firmware to fix this issue with UBL and other leveling options(tramming).

Hi Eric, thank you for the great work:-) I had a strange additional pause after each layer change with Marlin 2-based firmware (including yours) on my CR-10 V3. The pause leaves a blob each layer and causes stringing. It only starts from the 3rd layer (nice first 2 layers, stop at z-change, big blob, and then on). I tried to tune the firmware settings quite a bit already but could not get it work. I am wondering if you know how to deal with this.

The same printer printing the exactly same gcode file with the stock firmware (the one which says CR-10 V2): https://www.youtube.com/shorts/TKVjCJi-J8w. The movement is the same across all four poles.

Oh and are you running the latest Marlin I’ve compiled? The latest I’ve built is 2.0.9.3: https://git.pickysysadmin.ca/FiZi/cr-10-v3-marlin-config/-/tags/2.0.9.3

Smart and professional: these are the claims of the Creality CR-10 Smart Pro*. The 3D printer can be controlled via app from a smartphone and monitored via a camera.

The Creality CR-10 Smart Pro can be automatically leveled and is equipped with a 300 x 300 x 400 millimeter print volume. It is delivered as a kit, the touch display for the printer is of course included. A heatable build plate is also included. This is triple-strengthened and consists of highly adhesive spring steel PEI magnetic material.

Especially nice is the LED lighting of the print volume. The LEDs are power efficient and environmentally friendly, yet they provide plenty of light. The dual Z-axes and dual diagonal pull rods provide stable operation and increased accuracy. The kit comes with a nine language operation.

This 3D printer can process a lot of different filaments. Exotic materials like carbon filaments and the like are of course not included, even if you would like to try out these materials right away. However, you won’t get far with the filament that Creality provides with the printer.

The individual components are already pre-assembled and only need to be put together. How exactly this is done is documented in the manual with many pictures and is easy to understand. If you are still unsure, Creality has also included an SD card with a video that shows the individual steps of the assembly in detail.

In the first step you put the portal on the base, then you turn everything and screw the two parts from the bottom side with the provided screws. Then you can screw the stabilizers to the mounting points provided.

Put the extruder on the X-carriage and fix it with the enclosed screws. Then you can connect the touchscreen display with a plug and slide it onto the holder. Connect the cables that you already find at the intended places. They are simply fixed with adhesive tape.

The Creality CR-10 Smart Pro is equipped with intelligent leveling, but the print bed can still be leveled manually. So you have a 3D printer in front of you that has the so-called dual-mode leveling. This offers you a high accuracy when leveling.

Creality advises to level manually first. This is the best way to free the bed from larger inclinations before the first print. After that, you can rely on automatic leveling for a very long time. I myself run it before every print.

The Creality CR-10 Smart Pro comes with some great features that make this printer really interesting. Especially considering the price, this is the case. We present these features in detail here.

Some people like direct extruders, others rather not. Creality has developed the “Sprite” direct extruder itself. The all-metal extruder guarantees stable performance and copes wonderfully with a wide variety of film ends. TPU, PA and carbon – that’s no problem at all.

With its 300 x 300 x 400 millimeters, the print volume of the Creality CR-10 Smart Pro is quite large. The device is thus not only aimed at beginners in 3D printing who want to keep many options open even with their first device. Of course, this makes the Creality CR-10 Smart Pro with its large print space particularly interesting – and also for professionals.

Most 3D printers can either be leveled manually only (the majority), or leveled intelligently only. The Creality CR-10 Smart Pro can do both, and that’s a big plus. Smart leveling saves you a lot of time, which is efficient. However, you still have control with the manual leveling option.

Manual levelling is used once at the beginning and rarely in between. You only need to manually level the print bed if you notice larger inclinations that the CR-Touch sensor on the print head can no longer compensate for.

Once you have assembled the modules of the 3D printer, it simply needs to be aligned. Fortunately, this can be done quite quickly. Once set up, you can simply use the intelligent levelling at any time. In concrete terms, this means that the print bed automatically aligns itself before printing.

The modules of the Creality CR-10 Smart Pro are made of high-quality aluminum. This is on the one hand light, but on the other hand very stable. Above all, the portal supported by diagonal aluminum tie rods ensures precise printing with high stability. And because the parts are so cleanly made, you can assemble the modules within a few minutes.

The dual Z-axis with the stable triangular bracing is especially interesting due to the large print space of the Creality CR-10 Smart Pro. Because with a large build space, more vibrations occur. These usually cause an irregular surface on your print models. This is exactly what the stable frame prevents.

The camera gives you real-time control from anywhere. You can see what your Creality CR-10 Smart Pro is doing on your smartphone, desktop PC or tablet at any time. Good thing the printer is equipped with the LED light strip!

The Creality CR-10 Smart Pro has a heating bed on which the print bed surface is made of a magnetic spring steel foil. The foil has an excellent thermal conductivity and offers all models a good adhesion. It carries a PEI coating to ensure that any filament adheres well. This works with all the wide variety of different filaments that Creality’s CR-10 Smart Pro can handle.

Since the foil is flexible, all materials can be easily removed from the building plate. You only need to twist the plate slightly in your hands to release the model from the base. You don’t need any tools to remove your print model from the plate. This also means that your model will not be scratched by the usually rather insensitive use of tools. By the way, the temperature of the heating plate can be set to up to 100 °C.

The 4.3-inch HD screen is equipped with a simple interface, but that’s what makes it so easy to use. The handling is simply very good with this 3D printer. The multi-touch screen is equipped with an interactive UI.

The interface responds precisely and sensitively. Creality has thought of everything: The touchscreen supports OTA updates and allows you to quickly explore new features. Creality has built in a power-saving mode: After 30 minutes of inactivity (i.e. no user interaction), the display goes into sleep mode. It goes dark and uses less power. This also happens automatically after printing is complete.

The printer connects easily to the Creality Cloud, giving you a wealth of 3D models at your fingertips. You can connect the printer to the network via Wi-Fi, but you can also work via Bluetooth or Ethernet. The many connection options provide another special feature for you: You can print remotely with just a few clicks. Cloud slicing and one-click printing make this possible.

The Creality CR-10 Smart Pro also has an SD card reader. The printer is also communicative: The interface communicates with you in nine different languages on request. Creality has made sure that everyone in the world can find their preferred language:

What this means for you is that you can control your Creality CR-10 Smart Pro from your smartphone in your preferred language. Since the printer supports direct slicing in the Creality Cloud, you don’t even need a slicer. If you still prefer to use one, you can use the Cura slicer or the Creality slicer.

3D printers are not particularly quiet per se. However, the Creality CR-10 Smart Pro stands out just because of that: The printer moves almost carefully, and the noise emissions are kept within limits. What still causes a lot of noise here is the cooler. But of course, you can’t do without it. The mainboard and power supply were put together with an eye on noise: Quiet operation can be expected here as well.

The print head of the Creality CR-10 Smart Pro is equipped with a single nozzle. It has a size of 0.4 millimeters. Temperatures of up to 300 °C are reached at the hot end – so quite a lot is possible.

There is a double feed gear on the extruder so that the filament is reliably fed. You don’t have to worry about feeding or removing filament, the Creality CR-10 Smart Pro does it automatically.

The filament sensor is not exactly a novelty in the 3D printers from Creality. But compared to the previous printers, the sensor is improved here. The filament end is reliably displayed in time.

The Creality CR-10 Smart Pro resumes printing exactly where it was stopped. It is only paused, not canceled. The good insulation keeps the temperature stable over a longer period of time, so you don’t have to worry about problems with clumped filament during short power outages.

The Creality CR-10 Smart Pro stands out, especially because of its easy handling. Of course, nothing is simple when it comes to 3D printing. From the creation of the model to the preparation of the file in the slicer to the correct settings for temperature, speed and so on, you have to learn a lot. So it’s reassuring that Creality takes a lot out of the equation for you.

The smart features of the Creality CR-10 Smart Pro contribute to easy printing. For example, the filament is automatically fed and the end of the filament is displayed. The automatic print bed levelling also simplifies things. However, the connection to the Creality Cloud is unbeatable for beginners and educational institutions.

This also makes it easier to use in another respect: You can operate the Creality CR-10 Smart Pro from your smartphone or tablet. As long as your device is internet-enabled, you get access to the Creality Cloud. And with that, Creality Slicing is at your fingertips. You can use one-click printing. That’s because the Creality CR-10 Smart Pro is Wi-Fi enabled. Just connect the printer to your local Wi-Fi and transfer the data!

All this is omitted with the Creality CR-10 Smart Pro. Because the heating plate is equipped with a magnetic, PEI-coated building plate. This plate offers very good adhesion to all kinds of materials. It doesn’t matter if you’re printing with ABS, using TPU, which is considered more difficult, or even wood filaments: This stuff sticks well.

When other build plates eventually take on the shape of a bowl or curve slightly upwards after prolonged use, leveling becomes difficult. That doesn’t happen so quickly with the Creality CR-10 Smart Pro. The manufacturer promises a four times longer “runtime” than conventional printers.

Creality wants to enable you to print remotely. With the CR-10 Smart Pro, it doesn’t matter where the printer is or where you are. You can print from anywhere – via smartphone. The models available in the Creality Cloud are prepared via the Cloud Slicer, if necessary. Otherwise, one-click printing is also available to you. This works for the models that are already prepared.

Your printer automatically feeds filament, it receives the data from the cloud because you connected it via Wi-Fi. But how can you see what’s happening? That’s what the camera is for. When you start printing from your smartphone, the LED light bar on the Z-axis turns on automatically. The print area is therefore perfectly illuminated. If you have placed the camera correctly beforehand, you can now follow the printing process from a distance. This is also done via the smartphone. The Creality app makes it possible.

There’s basically not much to say about the print bed adhesion. The magnetic, flexible, PEI-coated build plate is pretty much the best you can get right now. If you compare the Creality CR-10 Smart Pro to other 3D printers, you’ll notice: The others may be a bit less expensive. But you’ll have to upgrade to the PEI build plate. The heating bed and build plate are included with the Creality CR-10 Smart Pro in the best available version.

The heat-up times of the CR-10 Smart Pro are, depending on which component of the 3D printer you look at, sometimes good and sometimes not so good. The Sprite extruder is of course extremely fast and already after one minute at the required 200 °C for PLA. The huge print bed, however, takes a bit longer to get to 60 °C. It takes a little over 3 minutes until this temperature is reached.

The noise levels of the CR-10 Smart Pro is not very loud but not very quiet either. During printing, I measured an average volume of just under 40 decibels. This is quite good, but is mainly due to the extruder. As soon as it starts to cool down after printing, the noise level rises sharply. The motherboard, on the other hand, is not audible and the stepper motor drivers are also whisper quiet.

The power consumption of the CR-10 Smart Pro is relatively moderate during printing considering the size of the print bed. However, when heating up the print bed, the power consumption exceeds the 300 Watt mark and is therefore quite considerable.

The Creality CR-10 Smart Pro works together with the free available Creality Slicer and Cura. Cura in particular is widely used. Anyone who has ever 3D printed is probably familiar with it. That’s handy, because it means: you most likely don’t have to learn a new software. On top of that, the slicer has a lot of features, can handle all kinds of filaments, both possible and impossible, and will satisfy everyone from beginners to professionals.

If you don’t want to use the Cura Slicer, you can use the Creality Slicer. It’s stored in the cloud. You can access it via the Creality app on your smartphone. The Slicer has a slightly different structure than the Cura Slicer, but it is specially adapted to Creality printers.

If you really don’t want to use slicers or want to use one of Creality’s well-prepared templates, you can get by without a slicer. Then the One-Click-Print function is enough to chase the model through the printer. Okay, admittedly: You can’t do it completely without Slicer either. But you don’t have to deal with it yourself. Because in this case, the intelligent printer takes care of it for you in conjunction with the cloud.

Of course, there are cheaper 3D printers than the Creality CR-10 Smart Pro*. But these devices are usually not equipped with a heatable printing plate, offer less stability and have a smaller print space. You also have to do without all the smart features of the Creality CR-10 Smart Pro. So the price is definitely justified.

Thanks to the simple connection to the Creality Cloud via WLAN, many interesting add-ons are available – from ready-prepared print templates to the Creality Slicer and One-Click printing, Creality has thought of everything. And even more. Because whether you really need the LED light bar and the AI HD camera is another question. It’s a nice extra, and it’s also included.

What on the other hand is absolutely essential for a clean print result: The Creality CR-10 Smart Pro is robust and constructed with low vibrations. The double Z-axis in combination with the diagonal struts ensures that the printer does not shake too much. Considering the large print volume, this is a big problem with other devices.

I cannot seem to find any information anywhere on what pins i should actually be using. Can anyone help me? I am using a CR10S board with normal CR10 display. Current config is:

Creality CR-10 V2 is a personal Cartesian-style FDM 3D printer produced by the well-known Chinese manufacturer Creality. Being an upgraded version of the renowned Creality CR-10, the CR-10 V2 boasts its upgraded firmware, improved heated bed, and a number of other truly useful features. For instance, it can be equipped with a BL-Touch probe for an automatic bed leveling. It also offers a filament run-out sensor and a resume printing function — the must-have options for printing large-scale products.

The Creality CR-10 V2 is perfect for both entry-level users and more experienced makers. It is used to produce various household items, prototypes, accessories, tabletop models, souvenirs, props, cosplay accessories, and more.

Or take a look at this well-detailed plague doctor mask printed with the CR-10 V2. It took some time to complete the paint job, but the end result turned out to be totally worth it.

The Creality CR-10 V2 is an FDM 3D printer that can print layers at 100 microns. The surface finish is not as smooth as you get with the more expensive printers, but is more than enough for prototyping and household use.

This 3D printed uniquely-designed garbage can is a great example of what you can make with the CR-10 V2. Its highly detailed and smoothly textured surface is quite a sight to behold.

The Creality CR-10 V2 is equipped with a 0.4 mm nozzle, giving you the best balance between speed and detail. The nozzle can heat up to 260°C, making it compatible with a broader range of filaments.

The Creality CR-10 V2 prints with standard 1.75 mm filament. You can pick the material you prefer from any vendor benefiting from a wide material choice.

The Creality CR-10 V2 offers a large build area of 300 x 300 x 400 mm that lets you print just about anything. It allows you to print a single large model or simultaneously produce several small-scale prints in one go.

The CR-10 V2 T is compatible with a number of slicing software solutions, such as Cura, Repetier-Host, and Simplify 3D. It works with .STL, .OBJ, and .AMF file formats. The printer software runs on Windows XP, Vista, 7, 10, macOS, and Linux operating systems.

The Creality CR-10 V2 is available in black with a soft sky blue or red touch on the gantry. Its slim stylish look makes it ideal for both home and professional applications.