lcd panel failure symptoms quotation

LCD’s do have many replaceable parts and have higher probably of repair than the old CRT box monitors. In Most cases a failed or broken Laptop Screen is worth the repair.

The AC Adapter can be easily tested with a multi-meter. This test is usually 90% conclusive if the AC adapter is good or bad. Also if the LCD has absolutely no power, no power light, no faint display, no reaction at all, the AC Adapter is a likely culprit. A quick multi-meter test can usually be done for free at most repair centers.

This is an internal part that inverts power to the needed amount for the backlight and panel. Inverters fail, and can be easily replaced. Failing inverter symptoms:

The backlight usually is simply a miniature compact Florescent light bulb. Just like what’s in office ceilings but very thin and small. This can fail like any light bulb and can be easily replaced.  Newer screens are LED and work differently.  Failing Backlight symptoms:

The panel itself can fail. The panel contains thousands of tiny pixels all connected by a mesh of thin signal cables. When a panel discolors or fails, the entire panel needs to be removed and replaced. This is less common, and is only sometimes worth the repair. Failing Panel Symptoms:

What if I break my panel? This is rather common on a laptop. Almost always its worth fixing. Usually can purchase a new panel or pull from a parted out laptop.

Other Failures. This can be anything from bad controller board or bad internal cable. These items should be diagnosed by a professional. A simple cable issue can be $5 part. Bad board might be a time to buy a new screen.

In all cases, it might be worthwhile to fix your LCD, especially on a laptop. Although with a few year old desktop LCD, you may consider a replacement, especially if you’re thinking of an upgrade.

Unfortunately, most of that stuff requires either a certified repair or a complete replacement to fix. Unless you’re especially handy with electronics and you just happen to have access to cheap replacement parts, it’s usually better to either return a monitor to the manufacturer (if it’s under warranty) or simply buy a new one. Even so, here are the most common ailments for modern LCD monitors, and what can be done to fix them…or not.

An incorrect refresh rate setting can also cause flickering. The refresh rate is the number of times the computer sends an image to the monitor per second, expressed in hertz. Most LCD monitors use either 59 or 60 hertz, though 75Hz, 120Hz, and 144Hz are also found on premium monitors. Go into your operating system’s display settings (right-click desktop and head to Display settings > Display adapter properties > Monitor in Windows 10) to make sure the right hertz setting is applied—you may need to update your video drivers as well.

Unfortunately, most other flickering symptoms are caused by a power deficiency somewhere in the monitor itself. It’s possible you could be drawing too much power from one of your home’s electrical circuits or overloading your surge protector—just move the power adapter to another plug to test this. But it’s more likely that there’s a loose or malfunctioning component in the screen assembly itself. If that’s the case, repair or replacement are the answers.

Black or single-colored lines on LCD screens are caused by a lot of different issues, but if the standard fixes outlined in the flickering section above don’t fix them (check your video and power cables for problems, install new drivers), it’s probably a physical defect in the screen itself. Try your monitor on another computer or laptop to see if the problem persists; if it does, you’re probably looking at a replacement, since the error is almost certainly in the LCD panel (the most expensive component of the monitor).

A “dead” pixel is a single dot on your LCD screen that doesn’t illuminate, showing up as one or more black squares. “Stuck” pixels are similar, but instead of showing black they’re stuck on a single color that doesn’t match the computer screen’s image, typically either red, green, or blue.

There isn’t much you can do for a dead pixel—it’s a physical malfunction of the screen panel. Luckily one or two dead pixels usually doesn’t mean you have to throw the whole monitor away; it’s certainly possible to work around it or ignore it. You can also look into a warranty replacement, though many monitor manufacturers won’t replace a screen until multiple pixels have gone out.

A stuck pixel may be a different matter. Depending on exactly how the problem is manifesting, it might be possible to get the pixel back into working order. There are various techniques for this, ranging from physically “massaging” the screen panel itself to running programs that rapidly cycle a portion of the screen through the color spectrum. You can try out some of these solutions as outlined in our guide to stuck pixels, but be warned, in my personal experience, it’s exceedingly rare to find a lasting solution to a stuck pixel.

If your monitor has a visible crack, a large discolored area, or a black/multicolored spot that doesn’t align with the pixel grid, it’s been subjected to physical trauma and the LCD panel is damaged. There’s nothing you can do here: even if your monitor is within its warranty period, it almost certainly won’t cover physical damage. You could try to replace the LCD panel itself, but since the replacement part will be almost as expensive as a new monitor anyway, you might as well start shopping.

Most of the above problems can happen to the LCD screens used in laptop PCs and tablets, too…but because of the compact build, they’re much harder to repair. That being said, the extra expense of a laptop versus a monitor might make it a much better candidate for a repair rather than a replacement. At the very least (assuming you’re out of the warranty period), it’s probably worth a diagnosis and quote at a repair shop, if you’re not comfortable replacing the screen assembly yourself.

Before we get into specifics about how this would work, it is important to understand that liquid crystal display panels and polarizers utilize organic compounds that are susceptible to high heat and light energy stress. These organic compounds will eventually break down if deployed in high stress environments. One such contributing factor to LCD panel failure is the use of a high energy unfiltered illuminator. The near IR and shorter UV wavelengths not only add excess heat that may overheat the liquid crystal and prevent them from working properly, but they also add UV band energy that is destructive to organic compounds.

Over time the UV and IR will degrade and damage the LCD panel and polarizers to the point that they produce an unacceptably poor performance. In most applications this is observed to be color shift, washed out images and an observable raise in the darkness levels produced by a damaged LCD panel.

In order to help prolong the onset of such damage a set of UV and IR band filters and mirrors can be used to minimize the amount of harmful energy that is conveyed to the LCD panel from the illuminator. In order to determine what combination of filters and mirrors are best for any particular application it is important to know how each material reacts to the various intensities of bandwidths emitted by your chosen illuminator.

Frequently the Illuminators used in LCD systems are gas discharge lamps such as xenon arc lamps and metal halide light sources. A standard hot mirror that reflects energy between 750 and 1200 nm can be used to mitigate the majority of IR energy being conveyed to the LCD panel. In addition a UV blocker can be used to mitigate the damage from energy below 400 nm.

Other thin film coatings and substrates can be utilized to reduce the IR and UV damage to an LCD panel. Any solution must be well researched to minimize concerns so that a sufficient cooling mechanism is planned and allowed for in the application.

There you have it, the pros and cons of different display types and some of their common failures. Remember, if you suffer a failure of any display type, we are here to help. Be sure to visit us online at gesrepair.com or call us at 1-877-249-1701 to learn more about our services. We’re proud to offer Surplus, Complete Repair and Maintenance on all types of Industrial Electronics, Servo Motors, AC and DC Motors, Hydraulics and Pneumatics. Please subscribe to our YouTube page and Like Us on Facebook! Thank you!

The difference between a LED TV and a LCD TV is that they are both LCD TV’s except one has LED stripes and the other has CCFL Backlights- (Florescent Tubes). I used a Philips Magnavox Emerson LG TV when testing these repaird, but they should work on other TV brands that are similar. Before you do any Repair, check to see if you are still under warranty, or are covered by a recall of your TV!!

If your Plasma or LCD/LED or CCFL/LCD TV or monitor has stopped working, or is displaying one of the following symptoms, then it *may* need some new capacitors in the power supply board or a replacement board

If the TV is still locked and will not respond to any commands from the front panel control buttons or the remote control unit, it is apparently locked in a failure or diagnostic mode, and would probably have to be diagnosed and repaired by a reputable TV repair facility. Good luck.

If it is a thin vertical line that appears on certain video resolution/image then it is normal and is indicated in the users manual under troubleshooting. If the line is almost half the screen, it could be a problem with the cable connection between the LCD panel and logic board, or the LCD panel itself. Try reseating the cable first if it’ll solve the problem. I’ve done similar issue in the past. Reseating the cable worked for a couple of months till eventually the LCD panel is the problem. Replacing the LCD panel is quite costly and impractical.

If the lines are there all the time or intermittent but in the same location it is an indication of a bad panel. The panel driver can also be the cause of this symptom.

If the lines/bars are across the OSD Menu, and all the video signal inputs also same result, that means the TV LCD Panel is defective Most of the time this symptom is caused by a bad LCD Panel 95%. You can try refitting LVDS Cable or replacing Main Board capacitors or replacing Main Board—5%

Bad news unfortunately, their are two possible causes for what you have described, one would be a fault with the picture drive pcb ( Power Control Board ), and the other is physical damage to the LCD cell matrix, (screen).

There’s videos on how to fix this. It has to do with putting foam, in between panel frame and screen, which applies pressure to solder joints, which then completes the circuit- Contact my10cents, for better explanation.

Is the OSD menu affected as well? If yes then possibility could be the LCD Panel or the t-con board. Since you have replaced the t-con board then possibility is the LCD panel. There could be also a possibility of mainboard where upgrading the firmware could restore the picture. If the OSD menu is not affected then the LCD panel is good.

If the lines are across the OSD menu then chances is very high the LCD panel is the cause of the problem otherwise it can be due to bad T-con board or even Mainboard. Have you tested on the OSD menu to see if the lines are really across the menu?

White Lines– There are several possibilities that can cause white lines on an lcd screen. One would be high temperature on the logic board. Logic board drives the LCD panel and when it overheats can cause this display problem. One solution would be to clean the vent holes around the TV. One possibility that I have experienced myself servicing is a bloated capacitor on the power supply board. The worst possibility is a defective LCD panel, which is costly to repair, and sometime more practical to buy a new TV set.

There are several problems that could cause this problem. It could be the connection from the T-Con board to the panel, try wiggling these cables around and see if the picture comes up even for a second. The Mainboard or it’s cables are not the issue in my opinion. The isdsue is either going to be a bad capacitor, faulty output from the power supply to the T-Con board, a bad connection from T-Con to panel, or the T Con or the panel itself are faulty.

It could be the connection from the T-Con board to the panel, try wiggling these cables around and see if the picture comes up even for a second. The Mainboard or it’s cables are not the issue in my opinion. This is due to either a bad capacitor, faulty output from the power supply to the T-Con board, a bad connection from T-Con to panel, or the T Con or the panel itself are fault. Also, it’s possible the A/V receiver’s Video On feature was turned off by an electrical surge or something else.Turn the Video feature back to On and suddenly that bad blue screen was gone.

Now we need to know if PSU Board has all the correct output voltages. This means checking the secondary side output voltages of Power Board. Probable causes are the Power Supply, the T-Con board, Main Board or the LCD panel itself has failed.

You will have to go into the TV and check for capacitors or burn marks or cracked solder around the pins–Main board could be IC’s, or regulators–Panel–Disconnect panel and see if your TV stay’s on—

The flashing green light indicates a fault on the power board inside your TV. This will be due to a faulty component like a capacitor or voltage regulator. Faulty electrolytic capacitors on the power board are the most common cause of this problem. These capacitors will often leak and stop working as the TV set gets older,but could also be caused by the Main Board or the inverter board. (LCD TV ONLY) So we will have to take a look inside and maybe do some circuit testing and a visual of your boards-

In a dark room take a flashlight and at an angle shine it on the screen and see if you can see any movement. If you can see movement or see your menu then its backlight failure. If totally black screen with sound then its T-Con board. So if you see movement on a led screen, then it’s your LEDs inside the panel. If on a LCD TV you see movement and lamps are not turning on, replace inverter. If with a LCD TV your lamps turn on, with no picture replace T-Con Board.

Plasma is the most durable in terms of panel failure. LED/LCD is terrible for panel failure. (But every model gets bad apples. Samsung LED/LCD panels die frequently. LG panels are a lot more reliable.) Overall I’d say plasma is more reliable, and even if it fails, in most cases plasma is repairable, LED/LCD is expensive to repair and often difficult to troubleshoot.

A blurry image on a high-definition LCD TV is typically the result of a mismatch between the TVs resolution capabilities and the resolution of the signal that is coming from connected devices, such as a DVD player or satellite TV receiver. Typically, blurry pictures result when a peripheral device connects to the TV through non HD cables and jacks.

Accidental Damage is any damage due to an unintentional act that is not the direct result of a manufacturing defect or failure. Accidental damage is not covered under the standard warranty of the product. Such damage is often the result of a drop or an impact on the LCD screen or any other part of the product which may render the device non-functional. Such types of damage are only covered under an Accidental Damage service offering which is an optional add-on to the basic warranty of the product. Accidental Damage must not be confused with an occasional dead or stuck pixel on the LCD panel. For more information about dead or stuck pixels, see the Dell Display Pixel Guidelines.

The LCD glass on the display is manufactured to rigorous specifications and standards and will not typically crack or break on its own under normal use. In general, cracked, or broken glass is considered accidental damage and is not covered under the standard warranty.

Spots typically occur due to an external force hitting the screen causing damage to the LCD panel"s backlight assembly. While the top layer did not crack or break, the underlying area was compressed and damaged causing this effect.

If your Dell laptop LCD panel has any accidental damage but the laptop is not covered by the Accidental Damage service offering, contact Dell Technical Support for repair options.

LED displays are great for getting your message out, sharing information, and promoting your brand. They get the viewers’ attention with size, color, and eye-catching graphics. When they are working well, nothing beats them. An LED display is a machine, though, and like any machine, it can break down and not function properly. Read on to learn some common failures of LED displays and our recommended solutions. We suggest that you call our team of experienced technicians to handle all the repairs your display needs. Knowing what to look for will help you describe the problem in better detail and give us somewhere to start.

Each area or panel of the display has a receiving card that interpolates the data from the controller and addresses it correctly to the individual panels to make up the entire image. When a receiving card malfunctions, the section or panels that are addressed by the receiving card will fail. The receiving card is designed to be repaired quickly by simply replacing it with a new one and recalibrating, if necessary.

Think of the display as a giant computer monitor in that it shows the images that you program it to. One of the more common failures of LED displays is a communication error from the controller. Something has interrupted the signal telling the display what to show. Check all the connections, make sure they are secure, then run a check on the controller to make sure it’s working.

Ever had your TV showing nothing but a black screen even if the audio was working? Unfortunately, that’s a common issue with low/middle-end LCD/LED TVs these days… Even more frustrating, this issue often comes from a rather tiny and cheap component that can be easily replaced. Most common issues are:

The first step into repair is to find the root cause of the issue. As backlight failure is a very common issue, this is the first thing to test. To do so, the easiest way is to power on your screen, put a flashlight very close to it and check if you can see the image through. The image would be very dark, like turning the brightness of the screen very very low.

That implies disassembling the TV to access the backlight which is between the LCD screen in the front and the boards in the rear. In my case, with a Samsung F5000, I had to process as follows:

First we have to remove the back housing to reveal the boards (from left to right: main board, T-CON, power supply) and disconnect the LCD panel from the T-CON board.

Note: Older TVs have neon tubes for backlight, which is thicker and less exposed to this kind of failure. LED backlight is the most common thing these days, but do not mistake an LED TV with an OLED TV. The first one is a classic LCD panel with a LED backlight, whereas the second is an OLED panel that doesn’t need any backlight as it is integrated in each pixels (making the spare parts much more expensive by the way).

There might be a lot of other root causes for similar symptoms, a black screen often looks like something very serious and therefore expensive to repair, but this case is the perfect example that taking some time to look for the root cause can sometime lead to a good surprise: here a 1$ fix!

The images below provide examples of symptoms that are most often caused by physical damage. These symptoms indicate that warranty coverage is voided.

The good news: a broken screen doesn’t mean your phone is kaput. In fact, if only the glass is broken, the fix is quick and inexpensive. The bad news: if the LCD screen is broken, you’re looking at a pricier repair.

If you’ve looked into replacement parts, you’ve likely come across two very different options: a glass screen, and an LCD screen. While the first option is cheap, the second is definitely not. Here’s the difference:

If you encounter any of these problems, you’re dealing with a broken LCD screen. If the glass is shattered, but the display is clear and touch capability is working, that’s a good sign. The problem is probably just the glass screen.

Whether you’re dealing with cracked glass or a broken LCD screen, you can find a quick, reliable repair service at FastPhoneRepair.com. Our qualified technicians will get your iPhone repaired and up and running again in record time and at reasonable rates.

A resistive touch screen monitor is composed of a glass panel and a film screen, each covered with a thin metallic layer, separated by a narrow gap. When a user touches the screen, the two metallic layers make contact, resulting in electrical flow. The point of contact is detected by this change in voltage, and registers the X & Y coordinates from a touch.

AG glass is added to protect the monitor’s LCD panel. When sunlight hits AG glass, the light energy is dispersed equally across the entire screen; these are no reflection “hot spots”. The AG coating results in a matte finish on the screen.

AR glass is added to protect the monitor’s LCD panel. When sunlight hits AR glass, the light energy is consolidated into a small but very bright reflected spot of light; the image on the rest of the screen stays in tact. By tilting or turning the monitor a few degrees, the operator can usually eliminate the bright spot entirely from his screen, and see clear start images even in direct bright sunlight.

The aspect ratio of a LCD display is the proportional relationship of its width compared to its height. The two numbers are commonly separated by a colon. The most common aspect ratios are 16:9 (aka widescreen) and 4:3 (closer to the shape of a square monitor, such as old CRT’s and TV’s). It is best to choose a monitor with the same aspect ratio as your video signal. You cannot customize a monitor’s native aspect ratio, so it is critical to know the aspect ratio of your incoming video signal beforehand.

An automated ambient light sensor (sometimes shortened to ALS) on an LCD monitor allows for automatic brightness adjustment based on the environmental light surrounding the monitor. Ambient Light Sensors allow users to set brightness and timing ranges to control the intensity of these automatic adjustments. This means users have the ability to specify the maximum and minimum brightness levels the Ambient Light Sensor can adjust between. Additionally, you can specify how long you would like the sensor to wait before adjusting the brightness (between 1 and 60 seconds).

The bezel is the outside frame or edge that surrounds the monitor’s front glass or LCD panel. For aesthetics or hygiene, some people prefer frameless, Zero-Bezel monitors.

Luminance (AKA Brightness) is the measurement of how much light a monitor emits. The SI unit for luminance is Candela per Square Meter (Cd/m²). One Cd/m² is equal to one “nit,” a more common term with LCD monitors. The measure of nits a LCD display emits will be the main factor in determining the monitor’s perceived brightness. A monitor luminance of around 250-350 nits will work well indoors and most monitors fall in this range. 400-700 nits would be ideal for daylight use (Daylight Viewable monitors). 1,000 nits or more is required for viewing in direct, bright sunlight (Sunlight Readable monitors)

The control of a LCD monitor is usually accomplished through the OSD (On-Screen Display) via a small group of pushbuttons on the rear or front of the monitor, or via an IR remote that allow the user to access the monitor’s settings.

Display Colors is the number of colors the monitor can display. The higher, the better. These numbers are always shown in millions unless it is a dated monitor. Standard LCD monitors have 16.7 million colors, which equals 24-bit color. Color bits and display colors are directly related since display colors is based on the power of two. This is because 2 raised to the 24th power comes out to ~16.7 million.

The humidity specification on the LCD monitor data sheets relate to relative humidity (RH) and is shown as a percentage. Relative Humidity measures water vapor, but relative to the temperature of the air. It measures the amount of actual water vapor in the air compared to the total amount of vapor that can occur at the current temperature. The same absolute humidity level but in two different climates will result in two different relative humidities. The relative humidity would be higher in the cooler climate, and lower in the warmer climate. The higher the percentage, the more humid it is relative to the temperature in the environment. At 100% relative humidity, the air is saturated and is at its dew point.

Isotropic Failure results when direct sunlight and high ambient temperatures combine to overheat the LCD screen. The screen will darken, or turn completely black. If the monitor’s internal temperature approaches 100°C (212°F) temperatures, the LCD panel will suffer irreparable harm. Please note that a monitor’s internal temperature may far exceed ambient temperatures when positioned in direct, bright sunlight. Therefore, the rated operating temperature of the LCD panel and the overall monitor must be sufficient to survive the worst-case heat scenarios that the monitor will be exposed to.

LCD stands for Liquid Crystal Display. The LCD panel directs the light from the backlight and produces the picture we see on the monitor’s screen. LCD panels use tiny liquid crystals to shift the light from one color to the next. The crystals are controlled using voltage from the monitor. Different LCD panels offer different advantages and can vary the overall cost of the monitor greatly.

LED Backlights are the most common backlights used in LCD flat panel displays today. The LED backlights are what illuminates the LCD panel. Without any backlights, an image could not be seen. A monitor’s life is based on the life of the backlights because they are so essential. LED backlights succeeded CCFL backlights and are more energy efficient, offer better contrast and brightness, and greater color range. LED backlights must be used with LCD panels to display an image.

Luminance (AKA Brightness) is the measurement of how much light a monitor emits. The SI unit for luminance is Candela per Square Meter (Cd/m²). One Cd/m² is equal to one “nit,” a more common term with LCD monitors. The measure of nits a LCD display emits will be the main factor in determining the monitor’s perceived brightness. A monitor luminance of around 250-350 nits will work well indoors and most monitors fall in this range. 400-700 nits would be ideal for daylight use (Daylight Viewable monitors). 1,000 nits or more is required for viewing in direct, bright sunlight (Sunlight Readable monitors)

MTBF stands for Mean Time Between Failure. A monitor’s MTBF refers to the time period when the the monitor’s backlights will dim to 50% of the original brightness. MTBF is typically measured in hours. If the backlights of an LCD monitor with standard brightness levels dim to 50%, it is considered unusable because the screen is not bright enough for any use.

The MVA panel is a type of LCD panel. MVA panels are newer than TN panels and offer wider viewing angles (typically 178° x 178°) This allows the monitor to be used in landscape or portrait mode, or mounted above eye level, with no loss of image quality.

Open frame monitors are provided without typical enclosures. They are often used for limited-space applications, or when the display will be integrated into a machine or system. Open frame monitors and touch screens are available in two configurations: all components are mounted to the rear of the LC panel, or in a “kit” version, the LCD panel and all other components are provided loose, enabling the end user to mount them in any way they desire.

The operating temperature of the LCD video display is the range of temperature that is deemed acceptable for using the monitor. Operating outside the high end of this range can result in isotropic failure, or the components can begin to fail at temperatures below the low end of the range. The storage temperature of a monitor will always be equal to or greater than the operating temperature since monitors generate heat when operated.

Adding glass over a LCD panel does protect it. However, this also causes increased internal reflections, both from external light as well as from the LCD’s own backlights, thereby reducing image quality. It also creates an air gap between the glass and the panel.

Optical Bonding is the process of injecting an optical-grade resin into the gap between the LCD panel and the glass. This eliminates internal reflections, eliminates the possibility of internal condensation, increases the contrast ratio, and improves the image quality.

Panel mount is a type of enclosure which enables you to flush-mount the monitor or touch screen into a panel, door or enclosure. Panel mount enclosures feature an oversized front bezel to enable mounting. The front face will protrude very slightly from the mounting surface, but the internal components will be safely enclosed inside the panel, door or enclosure. Panel mount enclosures offer added protection since only the front of the monitor is exposed.

Pixel pitch (AKA Dot Pitch) is the distance from one pixel’s center to the adjacent pixel’s center. Pixel pitch is measured in millimeters (mm) and most LCD monitors range from 0.10mm to 0.70mm. Pixel pitch is directly correlated to resolution and viewing distance. The smaller the pixel pitch, the more condensed the pixels are, and the higher the resolution. However, a smaller pixel pitch requires a closer viewing distance. The viewing distance should decide the ideal pixel pitch for you.

Polarizing filters are made from a type of transparent crystal, which allow certain light waves to pass through. A vertical allows vertical light waves, and blocks horizontal light waves, and vice versa. LCD monitors use two polarizers to control the brightness of the light. Care must be taken to choose the proper polarizers. For example, Incorrect polarizers used in Sunlight Readable monitors would result in the monitors appearing invisible to anyone wearing polarized sunglasses.

Protective glass is when an extra layer of glass is added onto the front of the LCD screen. The primary reason to place glass over the LCD panel is to protect the panel from damaged. AR (Anti-Reflective) or AG (Anti-Glare) glass will help to reduce unwanted reflections and glare.

Rack mount is a type of enclosure that features flanges on the left and right sides suitable for mounting directly into a standard 19” rack with the face of the LCD monitor visible at all times. The height of the unit is measured in rack units (RU) where 8U and 9U are most common to fit 17-inch or 19-inch LCDs.

The display resolution of a LCD monitor is the number of horizontal pixels multiplied by the number of vertical pixels. TRU-Vu’s display resolutions range from 640 x 480 up to 3840 x 2160 (aka 4K resolution). Larger display sizes will typically require higher resolutions that provide sharp image quality. However, LCD displays with smaller screen sizes can have lower pixel resolutions but still produce excellent image quality.

RGB stands for Red Green Blue. It is the color model used in sensing, representing, and displaying images in electronic systems like monitors and computers. RGB is an additive color model that adds the 3 primary colors (red, green, and blue) together to reproduce a an array of colors. Red, green, and blue together will result in white. LCD monitors will use RGB sub-pixels to create different colored pixels in order to represent a larger picture.

SAW (Surface Acoustic Wave) is a touch screen technology. SAW touch screens utilize a series of piezoelectric transducers and receivers along the sides of the monitor’s glass plate to create an invisible grid of ultrasonic waves on the surface. When the panel is touched, a portion of the wave is absorbed. This allows the receiving transducer to locate the touch point and send this data to the computer. SAW monitors can be activated by a finger, gloved hand, or soft-tip stylus.

The screen size of an LCD monitor is determined by measuring from one corner of the LCD screen (excluding the bezel) diagonally to the opposite corner of the LCD screen. Screen size is measured in inches. Screen size is not to be confused with Viewable Area, as the viewable area is the horizontal measurement multiplied by the vertical measurement of the LCD Screen.

The shock rating shows the maximum amount of shock that can occur without damaging the display. The shock rating of a monitor is measured by the maximum acceleration of gravity (G) over a given time, usually milliseconds (msec). A monitor experiencing a shock greater than the provided rating or if the shock occurs quicker than the given time will result in complications or failure.

Surface capacitive touch screen monitors have a transparent electrode layer placed on top of a glass panel, and covered by a protective cover. When an exposed finger touches the monitor screen, it reacts to the static electrical capacity of the human body; some of the electrical charge transfers from the screen to the user. This decrease in capacitance is detected by sensors located at the four corners of the screen, allowing the controller to determine the exact touch point. Surface capacitive touch screens can only be activated by the touch of human skin or a stylus holding an electrical charge. It will not activate with a gloved finger, or other objects.

The TN panel is a type of LCD panel; TN stands for twisted nematic and is one of the most widely used, cost effective, but oldest LCD panels available. The viewing angles are not as good as other types of panels, and are generally worn when viewing the monitor from below. However, the response time is one of the quickest out of all LCD panels.

In order to use a touch technology, there must be an interface to power the touch technology as well as translate your touches to the computer. The touch interface enables the touch panel to communicate with your computer. This interface will typically be a USB or RS-232 cable.

The vibration rating is the total amount of vibration a monitor can sustain. The vibration is measured using the acceleration of gravity (G) over time. Experiencing a higher vibration or a vibration that lasts longer than the provided time will result in complications or failure.

The viewable area of a video display is the actual width of the LCD screen (typically in inches) x by the height of the LCD screen in inches (excluding the enclosure). This measures the total area of the screen and shows how wide and tall the screen will be. Monitors with the same Screen Size will have the same Viewable Area and visa versa.

The viewing angle of a monitor is the maximum angle the monitor can be viewed at before image quality degrades. Viewing angles are measured in horizontal and vertical degrees. When the monitor is in a position where viewing occurs outside of this maximum angle, the brightness and contrast ratio will begin to drop. At a severe enough angle, the perceived colors on screen will begin to shift. Make sure your monitor’s end position will allow viewing within these angles for ideal results. The worst viewing angle for most LCD panels is usually from the bottom looking upward at the panel. A MVA-type panel will provide full 178° x 178° viewing angles.

Zero Bezel or Bezel-Less enclosures are monitors which have no bezel, frame, or edge around the front edges. If you run your finger across the monitor’s front face, you would never feel a bump on the edges. Zero Bezel or Bezel-Less monitors are more stylish and hygienic. They are far superior medical displays, as the bezels found on standard LCD monitors often able germs and debris to collect near and under the bezel.

To provide you more detailed instruction, you can also click ASUS Youtube video link below to know more about troubleshooting for LCD Monitor problem (blurry screen, abnormal colors)