elegoo mars lcd screen replacement quotation

1. The screen will go through a strict exposure calibration test before leaving the factory. Most of the new screen damage is related to transportation After receiving the screen, first check whether the screen is normal. If there are cracks, or breakage please contact us within three days. We will give you a new screen or a refund.

2. Feedback after installation and use, it will not have a warranty. The screen is consumable.  Most of the environment, such as resin selection, printing techniques, etc, will affect the screen.

【Disassemble the old screen】①Using the socket head wrench(M2) to disassemble the screws which fix the cover; ②Unclasp the screen wire and take it off. ③Tear the fixing tape down gently. Note: If your screen can work normally, do NOT tear off the fixing tape on the surface at will, otherwise the scratch-resistant film may be torn off together, resulting in the loss of screen protections as well as resin leakage into the interior of the machine. ④Please wear gloves before the operation to avoid leaving fingerprints and other dirt on the screen. After that, apply the art knife to gently pry from the corner of the screen. Once you take the screen and the bottom glass off together, kindly follow the steps in the video to separate the two films.

【Installation Preparation】①First clean the SEKISUI tape in the installation slot and the glass. ②The glass can be wiped with a dust-free cloth moistened with alcohol. ③Stick the new tape around the installation slot (for the glass), then install the glass. ④After installing the glass, please clean the dirt from the glass in time to avoid affecting the printing. ⑤Stick the tape around the glass, to prepare to install the new LCD screen.

【Install the new screen】①With the side showing the word "LCD" facing up, attach the wire to the snap-in new screen as instructed in the video. ②Using the tape to fix the screen. Note:the wider side of the tape will be glued to the inside, and take care to cover the slot position when taping. ③Install the wire back then clasp it. ④Assemble the cover back and lock the fixing screws.

This is not a cheap 3D printer. It’s a very affordable 3D printer – but unlike filament-based printers, the story doesn’t end there. So while the Elegoo Mars is an incredible, high-detail resin printer, you can’t just it to any other machine that costs under 300 bucks. So today, we’ll look at whether Elegoo are actually managing to democratize printing or if you should just stick to FDM.

For some reason, when Elegoo introduced the Mars for around 280 bucks, the internet just went crazy over it. But it’s not like the Mars did anything really new and there were already machines like it out there. Even in a very similar price bracket, depending on which machine was on sale at what time. My experience has mostly been with FDM so far, filament-based printers, but I did have a Wanhao Duplicator 7 SLA printer for a good while now, and even though it seems to be practically the same machine as the Mars, I never really managed to warm up to the Duplicator 7 for many different reasons. So my take on the Mars is going to be from that perspective, too. And I do actually like the Mars a lot more than the D7.

But let’s start out with the specs, and they, too, are going to sound very familiar. At its core is a 5.4” 1440p smartphone screen that gets you a 12 by 6.8cm print area with a 50µ pixel size. The Z-Axis does 15.5cm, which I think is more than enough for the build area – when you’re printing busts and stuff, you’re mostly limited when it comes to how large you can scale them up by the 6.8cm maximum depth.

Now, the resin the Mars is printing with cures through quote-on-quote UV light, but technically, the 405nm wavelength is deep blueish purple and not UV, you definitely won’t get a sunburn from it. So inside the printer, there’s a large UV LED in the bottom that shines through that LCD screen, the LCD masks all the areas that shouldn’t get exposed and cured and than with every layer, the print surface just moves up a bit, lets some fresh resin flow under it and then cures the next layer below the last one. This printer actually prints all your parts upside down, but you can just flip them once they’re done.

One of the great features of the Mars is that it has a touchscreen interface and a USB port built right in. With the early cheap resin printers you’d basically run the masking LCD directly as a second screen from a computer, which was just horrible. If you’d leave your mouse cursor on the wrong screen, you’d actually get just an extruded mouse cursor column just printed next to your actual part, the computer couldn’t go into standby, windows update messages would screw things up, you know, the whole deal. Here, you just save your print file to a USB thumb drive and the printer handles the rest.

So, what did you see there? The yellow prints were done with Wanhao resin, the clear and grey parts were Elegoo’s own resin. And there is a massive difference between the two. I was never happy with the Wanhao D7, possibly because I only ever used the Wanhao resin with it. The prints with Elegoo resin on the Mars are clean, crisp, detailed, have only minimal warp, while the prints with the Wanhao resin warped a lot, supports broke off during the print and actually, I could never get the parts to fully harden and cure, even leaving them out in direct sunlight. These still feel tacky and soft, even after two days of curing. When I did the exact same thing with the parts printed from Elegoo resin, they actually turned pretty brown. What I’m told is happening here is that the partially cured resin, as it comes directly off the printer, instead of curing to a clear, strong plastic, actually breaks down from the more violent UV rays that are a natural part of sunlight – the same ones that give you a sunburn. Supposedly, once parts are fully cured under the “normal” 405nm light, they are much more UV resistant and won’t turn brown as much anymore, which is why I’m building a curing station with these mains-powered 405nm LEDs.

Overall, the print quality from Elegoo Mars is damn impressive. I don’t think I’ve had a print actually fail with this printer yet other than when it was clearly my fault for for example not setting the bed correctly, they’ve all come out looking really great. The only thing that stood out as artifacts are these lines that appear every now and then, I have no idea what they are. But overall, detail is great, reliability is great and resin prints just always look fantastic.

There are a few newer resins that either don’t smell… as much, or human noses just don’t pick it up, the Wanhao stuff smells horribly, the Elegoo resin is a bit less smelly, but compared to printing PLA, it’s still really bad. I’ve actually installed a fresh air ventilation system here in the studio with an ERV so that I could use these resin printers at all. With the fumes just lingering in here, my throat would start aching and my nose would start burning, so really not something you’d want in your living room. There are also “plant based” resins now, but as always, just because something is “natural” doesn’t really mean anything, the resin is still nasty stuff.

The resin itself is actually, I’d say, very reasonably priced now, these half-liter, roughly 500g bottles of Elegoo resin are 25€ and you can get them Prime shipped; and considering you’re not usually printing large, chunky parts completely solid with these resin printers, that’s actually not too far off from what filaments costs. It’s still more expensive, but very reasonable for being a less commoditized material I think. On the other hand, I’ve probably spent as much on nitrile gloves as I did on resin.

Speaking of parts that are hollow – the software. And I’m actually pretty happy with it! What Elegoo are recommending is ChiTuBox – which is a closed-source software that’s definitely not GDPR-compliant, that you can use for free for non-commercial purposes. There’s no option for anything but private use – yet, but down the road it looks like there will be a paid ChiTuBox Pro version with, quote, more features. The good thing is, it comes with a profile for the Mars that works really well out of the box – unlike the Wanhao D7 where I had to manually set up one of three different profiles in their software and none of the ones they suggested was actually “correct”.

Elegoo also offer a 4-pack of plastic vats for a very reasonable price, and I think it’s basically a must-have if you’re printing with more than one type or color of resin. Cleaning out the vat just to print with a different resin is really not fun, and in this one that has the clear resin in it right now you can still see some leftovers from the yellow Wanhao stuff even though I cleaned it out as well as I could.

And two more things on the topic of the UV LED – because apparently the Mars only uses a simple reflector to “spread” the light from the LED over the entire print area, I’ve been told that you can run into issues where the center actually gets exposed more than the edges of the print area, but I’ve not run into that; and supposedly the LCD screen used in here can or will fail at some point due to the near-UV light. I’ve heard anywhere from 1000 hours – which would be after just a few bottles of resin – to tens of thousands of hours. Just something to keep in mind, the screen may be a consumable, but thankfully, the actual screen part itself is only 30 bucks in materials if you can manage to swap it yourself. If not, well… too bad.

And of course, the LCD is right under the print surface, so if your Mars is missing that one retention screw like mine did, the aluminum bed will shoot straight down towards the LCD when you level the build plate for the first time.

The actual touchscreen LCD is right up front and makes the printer easy to use, there’s everything on there that you’ll need to run the Mars, you even get small thumbnails of the print you’re about to start, but the USB port is on the back, which, just like the Ultimaker having its spool mounts on the back, is kind of inconvenient.

So is the Elegoo Mars a good 3D printer? Yes. I’m really happy with it, but then again, it feels like a resin printer itself shouldn’t be hard to get right. I know everybody likes car analogies, so just comparing different resin printers is like comparing different car engines – it’s definitely the core part of a fossil-powered car, but there’s so much more to a vehicle than just the engine. Like, this is a good engine, but that’s all it is.

So, really, a good system for resin printing should also factor in some way of cleaning the parts, resin handling, which Elegoo actually does comparatively well at with the VAT packs, and it should also include a way to correctly cure parts. That makes it hard to compare a resin “printing engine” with a filament printer where you don’t really need anything else but the printer itself to produce parts.

But still, if you’re looking for just a resin printer, the Mars is a super solid choice right now. And if you’ve been watching my stuff for a while, I’m very cautious with saying something is “the best” one, because I usually haven’t thoroughly tested every single other machine there is, but this is definitely the best one I’ve ever used. Sample size 2.

The Elegoo Mars 2 Pro is a compact 3D resin printer that produces incredibly detailed 3D prints that almost look injection moulded. And despite its impressive build quality it is reasonably priced at around £250 or $250.

Liquid resin sits in a resin tank on top of what is essentially a smartphone screen. The bottom of the tank has a thin clear plastic film made of FEP or Fluorinated ethylene propylene which is a non-stick material like Teflon. The models are printed upside down with a build plate that lowers on a single axis into the resin tank.

The build plate starts at the chosen layer height above the FEP film. UV light is shone through the LCD screen which displays each layer as a mask. The resin is cured or hardened by the UV light, but only in the unmasked areas. The build plate then pulls this hardened layer off the non-stick FEP film and then moves back down, this time one layer higher, building up the model one complete layer at a time. There are far more expensive SLA printers that use a laser to draw the layers, but the Mars 2 Pro, like most common resin printers, is more accurately referred to as a DLP or Digital Light Processing LCD resin 3D printer.

The main advantage of resin printers is the incredibly fine detail they produce. They have much higher horizontal resolution compared to FDM printers, which have to physically move a print head around. The horizontal resolution is based on the resolution on the LCD panel and for the Mars 2 Pro is 0.05mm.

You also have less choice of resins to print with compared to FDM printers, which can also print engineering grade materials like Nylon and Polycarbonate. So for structural parts, an FDM printer may still be a better choice. But I will be using a supposedly stronger ABS like resin from Elegoo in this review and also try mixing this with a tougher resin from Siraya Tech. So we’ll see what sort of results we can expect shortly.

The Mars 2 Pro has a 6.08” monochrome LCD screen with a 1620 x 2560 2K resolution. The monochrome LCD screen has a longer life than earlier printers with RGB screens and the mono LCD screens enable faster printing too with better UV light transmission.

The printer build volume is 129mm x 80mm with 160mm maximum height. Dividing the horizontal dimensions by the resolution of the screen gives the horizontal resolution of 0.05mm: 129mm divided by 2560.

Shake the resin bottle and fill the tank around a third of a way. Put the cover back on, insert the USB drive and select the Rook.ctb file and tap print. The LCD screen displays a thumbnail of the print files and the screen is quite responsive. It is quite dim though and you do need to look directly at it to see the icons.

I’m using the Elegoo Mercury Plus Wash and Cure Station to post process the prints, and quite honestly if you’re going to get a printer like this, I’d budget for one of these too. You don’t absolutely need one since you could wash the prints off in a tub with some IPA alcohol and a toothbrush and leave them out in the sun to fully cure or buy a cheap UV lamp if you live on Dartmoor. In this review I’ll be using this wash and cure station.

Apart from a little damage removing them from the build plate, the Rook models look very impressive in the grey Elegoo ABS-Like resin I’m using. This resin is meant to be tougher than their standard resin and since I like to print mainly functional parts rather I want the extra strength. And it’s about the same price too but it’s still a lot more expensive than rolls of filament – weight for weight it’s about twice the price. And since you need to add lots of supports for most prints there’s more wastage too. Not to mention failed prints.

Which brings me nicely on to my next print. Our shower rail broke a while back so I designed a replacement bracket in Fusion 360 which I’ve previously printed on an FDM printer. To convert the model into something the printer understands you need to slice it, just like with a filament based printer.

This takes the 3D models and divides it into slices or layers that the printer understands, based on your chosen layer height. Elegoo includes Chitubox which is fairly easy to use, although to use the latest version I also had to update the firmware on the machine. I’ll link to instructions on how to do this below.

There are plenty of tutorials online on how to use Chitubox and again I’ll link to a couple I’d recommend watching below. But I’ll cover some basics. Click on Settings and add the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro. For most Elegoo resins you shouldn’t need to change anything but for their translucent resins you’ll need to increase exposure times – that is how long the UV light comes on for for each layer. You can set that up here referring to this table.

Switch back to the File List tab and click Slice. You’ll get an indication of the print time which is always at least 30 mins quicker than the actual print time in my experience. And the cost in resin if you’ve entered the correct price and currency in Settings. There’s also a preview of the layers that will be sent to the LCD screen. A handy little feature here is the “Show isolated island layers”. Give it a minute or two and it’ll highlight in red any layers that will be printed in mid air – something you don’t want. Even if this doesn’t result in a failed print, it will mean resin stuck to your FEP sheet which means cleaning the resin tank before your next print. Save the .ctb file to your thumb drive and print.

When it’s completely clean, I gently also clean the LCD screen with a microfibre cloth and place the tank back in the printer. A little camera air blower is handy for making sure no dry particles remain in the FEP sheet.

So I attempted  to improve the release of the FEP sheet by rubbing in some PTFE lubricant with a dry soft paper towel – a tip I saw in aYouTube video from Bluebrain. I still had issues with prints sticking a little too well to the FEP sheet so I tried replacing the FEP sheet – Elegoo provide a couple of spares and a step by step tutorial on how to do this.

I found I could go a little lower than the default 2.5s – 2s gave slightly better results. And interestingly Lychee slicer uses 2s for this printer. Lychee slicer is an alternative to Chitubox and can still export .ctb files that can be printed off the Mars 2 Pro. I found it easier to use compared to Chitubox and it has more features in its free version. Although there is a 20s ad on the free version when you export a file.

My Garmin 1000 cycling computer’s power button has worn out so I printed out a replacement button off Thingiverse. This worked perfectly and although I’d printed this on my Prusa FDM printer before, it came out much better with the Mars 2 Pro.

I printed a belt buckle to see how much flex the Elegoo ABS-Like has. It came out quite nicely and there is plenty of flex, but it’s still brittle – the edge of the buckle broke after a few insertions.

Since I’d still like to use this printer mostly for functional prints, I started experimenting with tougher resins. There’s far less information about this online but I tried mixing the Elegoo ABS-like resin with Siraya Tech’s Tenacious resin which is tough and slightly flexible but also very expensive.

I tried a 3:1 ratio of Elegoo to Siraya Tech which brings the cost down, and should make for tougher prints with better impact resistance. I printed the exposure test again to confirm I didn’t need to adjust exposure times and went about printing two parts for the bumper of my son’s RC car which had broken off.

There are quite a few consumables you need for this printer or any resin printer as well as the resin itself. The FEP sheet will need replacing if it gets scratched or becomes cloudy. You definitely don’t want it tearing, since that could be very messy. As I mentioned the printer comes with 2 spare sheets and you can get a replacement set of 5 for around £20 or $20. Another option is some spare resin tanks which already have the FEP sheet installed and come with lids so handy if you want to print in different resins without having to empty and clean the tank.

The LCD screen is also considered a consumable but should last a fair bit longer although I couldn’t find any details on how long it should last with this printer. Prusa quote 2000 hours for their mono LCD screens. These aren’t too expensive – they’re currently listed at just over £30 or $30 on Amazon.

It’s difficult to find many faults with the Mars 2 Pro from Elegoo. Nearly everything about it is well built, from the base to the resin tank to the build platform. This is especially impressive considering its price. Although I really would budget in the Mercury Plus cleaning and curing station or something similar, to try and minimise contact with the resin and speed up post-processing. You do need to be very careful with the resin and follow all the safety precautions, but I wouldn’t let this put you off trying resin printing.

I would like to see a slightly higher quality FEP sheet that didn’t require manually coating with PTFE if at all possible, which I’ll come back to in a minute. And I don’t like the active charcoal filter not being user-replaceable. Ideally it’d be far more convenient if the covers for both the Mars 2 Pro and Mercury Plus were hinged in some way. Finding somewhere to put them is not always easy. And a resin level sensor would be a nice addition too.

If you want to dip your toes in resin printing though, I think this printer is an excellent option. There is also the Mars 3 that Elegoo has just released. It has a higher 4K resolution and a slightly larger build volume. And it has an upgraded FEP 2.0 sheet that I’d like to try on the Mars 2 Pro, as I alluded to earlier. But it’s their non pro version and doesn’t have the built in carbon filter. And it’s more expensive.

The Tearing Effect Signal (TE) is a feedback signal from the LCD Controller to MCU. This signal reveals the display status of the LCD controller. In the non-display period, the TE signal will go high. Therefore, this signal enables the MCU to send data by observing the non-display period to avoid tearing.

With Alibaba.com, one of the world"s largest network of wholesale business suppliers, you can find the right shipment of wholesale elegoo mars pro lcd. We have lcd screens for phone repairs available for all major brands and models. This includes models for which the manufacturer has discontinued replacement products, just look for old phone replacement lcd screens.

The reason many phones use elegoo mars pro lcd rather than LED or AMOLED screens is because of their relatively cheaper cost. Additionally, smartphone lcd screens also use less power than LED or AMOLED screens and therefore help conserve battery power. With today"s powerful apps, this can be a real advantage for those who do not like to or do not have the ability to charge their phone frequently.

When looking for elegoo mars pro lcd, make sure you check the specifications of the phone model for which you want a replacement screen. While many manufacturers do use the same screen, the lcd screen assembly may be different between models. Ask our suppliers for the specifics before making a purchase and they will be happy to help you out. Many are also downgrading to an aftermarket lcd screen from a led screen to extend the battery life of their phones.

The Elegoo Mars 2 Pro is a resin-based, SLA (stereolithography) 3D printer. Instead of using plastic filament that extrudes out of a nozzle, the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro holds a vat of liquid resin and uses an LCD screen to selectively harden small layers of resin.

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ELEGOO Mars 2 Pro is first LCD 3D Printer to product high quality prints with speed using monochrome LCD and COB UV light source together with its high printing speed at 2sec/layer, it can meet most of your printing needs to produce Industrial Parts to Miniatures with high efficiency.

However, resin printers do offer a cleaner, higher resolution print than filament systems, so I wanted to try them. I recently purchased an ELEGOO Mars 2 Pro. ELEGOO is one of the more prominent names in low-cost resin machines. Their brand vision is unadorned:  “With the help of programming and 3D printing technology, we can create almost anything—ELEGOO provides geeks with the keys to a new world.” ELEGOO has built a rather large brand and following of around 100,000 community members across more than 30 countries/regions around the world by providing low-cost 3D printing products.

Using the Mars 2 Pro did not go well. I tried 13 different prints, and 13 of them failed, including the test print that comes standard with the machine. I don’t know if I received a defective printer, or if I could not establish the correct settings. In any event, it was an abject failure. For all my FDM printers, I’ve been able to take them out of the box and start printing on them immediately. The other concern I had was the overall safety of the resin material itself. It tended to get everywhere when I was trying to work with it and made a mess out of my kitchen.

After this experience, I had given up on resin systems—until now. ELEGOO has just started their latest Kickstarter for the ELEGOO Jupiter, and there are several innovative features that are present in the Jupiter that have caught my attention.

The print volume of an ELEGOO SLA printer is anywhere from 129mm x 80mm x 160mm (ELEGOO Mars line) to 192mm x 199.898mm x 120mm (ELEGOO Saturn). The Saturn line has a 2K Monochrome resolution and the Mars has a 4K Monochrome resolution. This is important because it controls the speed of your prints.

As you might have guessed by now, the Jupiter makes all of those look tiny by comparison. The build volume on the Jupiter is 277.848mm x 156.06 mm x 300mm. As you can see in the photo, the Jupiter dwarfs their previous models. Not only is the build volume significantly larger, but it also includes a super-sized 12.8” 6K LCD resolution.

With such a substantial LCD screen upgrade, you can anticipate even higher model quality than current resin systems on the market. This, is turn, diminishes the square edges that can occasionally happen on lower-resolution printers. The high pixel density has been engineered to produce high-resolution models. The large size of the masking LCD presents people with the ability to print large models, multiple smaller objects and anything in between.

On the earlier SLA printers, you would have to pour your liquid resin into a resin tank, hope that it was enough for larger prints, or keep checking on it to try and refill the tank while printing. Both options are not ideal. ELEGOO has fixed this, as well. The Jupiter has an automatic resin tank feeding inlet that allows the photopolymer to fill in the tank anytime it is running low during a print.

There are other features they’ve added, as well, such as an all-metal structure, a five-inch capacitive touch screen, built-in mini air purifier, and a one-year CHITUBOX Pro license. These are all great upgrades to the design and functionality of the machine.

With the vastly enhanced build volume and the 6K LCD screen, I am seriously reconsidering my stance on resin printers. Right now, the Jupiter is available on its Kickstarter page for $740 (43.08% off of the $1300 MSRP) on up. You should hurry though, as the early backer rewards have already sold out. I hope you have a better experience with resin printing than I did.

Monochromatic LCD panels feature dramatically longer lifespans and maintain a stable performance throughout even the largest print jobs. Paired with the consistent curing exposure of the powerful and reliable UV light source, you"ll experience many more print hours on your Elegoo Mars 3, and fewer attempts to produce the parts and works of art you need.