how to get cured resin off lcd screen for sale

Resin 3D printers are awesome, however, the whole process is extremely messy. Especially when an accident happens and the resin leaks from the vat all over the printer.

When this happens mid-print, it usually means one thing – the resin will leak onto the precious LCD of the printer and cure. This means one thing – the UV light will be blocked by the cured parts and you will probably experience holes in your printed parts.

Usually, the people on Facebook advise you to scrape the resin away with a plastic razor. This usually works for small leaks, but it doesn’t work well on large leaks.

I experienced a resin leak recently on my Elegoo Saturn. Scraping the resin was not leading anywhere and I managed to scratch the polarizer film on top of the LCD. Therefore I stopped and I decided to make a (successful experiment): use acetone to dissolve the cured resin. It worked flawlessly!

Let me start with a warning – if you decide to follow this guide, you will do it at your own risk. I tested the procedure on the pre-order batch of Elegoo Saturn with the TM089CFSP01 LCD. It is possible that later batches or different LCDs use a polarizer that is not acetone resistant. In that case, the procedure will damage your LCD! If you want to try it, try rubbing a corner of the LCD with acetone first to see if it is acetone resistant or not. On the other hand – if your LCD is ruined with resin, there is nothing you can lose.

The procedure is simple – soak the cured resin with acetone to soften it and scrape it away. However, the acetone evaporates quickly, so simply pouring it on the screen does not work (as it evaporates), nor rubbing an acetone-wet cloth over it. The solution is to soak a paper towel with acetone, put it on the LCD and cover it with plastic foil to prevent evaporation. After 10-15 minutes the resin softens and is easy to scrape off. You can also apply the same feature with IPA – it will just not make the resin as soft as acetone.

We’ll admit it. We like the results of resin 3D printing, but we don’t always care for the mess. We aren’t alone, and a common issue is to have drips of resin on your LCD screen — a potential disaster. You ought to have a screen protector, but yeah… you should back up hard drives, too. [Jessy] has the same problem and he has heard that you can easily clean cured resin from the screen using wood glue. Does it work? Check out the results of three glues in the video below.

We winced to see glue going on the screens. [Jessy] cured some resin on the screens deliberately for a test. He used Elmer’s wood glue, Gorilla wood glue, and Titebond II wood glue. While there is a bit of a price difference between the options, they are all fairly inexpensive.

After letting the glue cure for 24 hours, it should peel up and take the resin up with it. Getting under the corner to start peeling was challenging and the whole thing left a huge mess. In retrospect, [Jessy] mentioned it might be a good idea to put a tab under the glue while wet to provide a handle.

It probably doesn’t matter, though. Only the Gorilla glue grabbed any resin at all and even that wasn’t very effective. [Jessy] suggests using alcohol and a plastic scraper if you have this problem. We suggest a screen protector.

There are two upsides, though. First, the casting of some brands of wood glue made some interesting pieces that might have use in some other context. Second, the video comments have other ideas that might be worth trying including hot sponges and cheap material for screen protection.

Usually, we are more worried about getting resin to stick not unstick. If you are still on the fence about the mess versus rewards of resin printing, check out our overview.

Dust, smudges, and/or lint present on the resin 3D printer"s LCD surface may affect printing. In order to increase your success rate in resin 3D printing, we recommend you keep your LCD clean at all times.

Apply a small amount of 95% sanitizing alcohol on the printer’s LCD to remove any cured resin, smudges, and/or fingerprints present on the LCD. Use a soft kitchen paper towel or a fiber cloth and wipe in one direction to thoroughly clean the LCD surface.

An animated explanation to “Why did this happen?” When you move up to larger resin 3d prints, you also start seeing failures. There’s no blanket answer for all print failures. But in this video, he explores a few reasons why resin 3d prints sometimes fail. And hopefully, show you how you can get better results.

In that case, the Pendrive failed and the top pressed the failed print into the FEP perforating it. At the beginning, I wanted to cry, but I got my spatula and scrapped the shit out of the screen. I was able to remove most of it.

But I couldn’t scrap all. Do you see the top corner? I was not able to remove that little bastard. I poured alcohol and rubbed and rubbed and i was only removing the glue from the sealant. So I checked internet.

I promise that I will make a video with how I scrapped everything because I recorded it. But I wanted to let you know the solution right now before I forget to post.

The solution is a 10 dollar plastic shitty tool from Amazon. It is used for vinyl in cars and it is plainly a godsend tool. It does not damage the screen but it is enough sharp that it gets under the resin. It is plainly amazing. Best 10$ invested of my life.

Compatible for ELEGOO Mars / ELEGOO Mars Pro / ANYCUBIC Photon / Creality LD002R / ANYCUBIC Photon S / PHROZEN Sonic Mini / LONGER Orange 10 / LONGER Orange 30 / EPAX X1-N

The light source design, exposure time and other printing parameters of different brands of LCD 3D printers are different.The resin composition ratio of SUNLU designed for the photon is special , it is the most consistent with resin photon print parameter.

1. Environmental requirements: 20-30°C ambient temperature, do not print near windows or in other environments exposed to UV light, and try to isolate children and pregnant women.

4. The residue on the surface of the printed resin parts can be washed with alcohol at a concentration of 95% or more, and it is recommended that the cleaning process does not take more than 1 minute.

5. pores and other details of the alcohol is not easy to clean to the place can be used ultrasonic or filled with alcohol syringes and other auxiliary tools to clean, and alcohol should not be cleaned too many times to ensure the purity of alcohol, the concentration of impure alcohol cleaning model will lead to whitening and wash the phenomenon of unclean. Specific cleaning time, until the surface of the resin parts no sticky feeling, no residual resin in the pores of the effect shall prevail.

6. Drain or blow dry the residual alcohol after cleaning and place under UV light or sunlight, and irradiate all parts of the model evenly until the surface of the resin parts feels dry and hard enough.

7. Use hand sanitizer or dishwashing liquid to wash away any resin residue on the skin, but try not to touch the alcohol-washed resin residue with your hands.

Thickened aluminum bottle completely protected from light. Leak-proof bottle fully wrapped with a plastic bubble bag to make sure the resin stays in place where they belong.

This screen protector should be installed on top of your LCD screen to help protect your printer from resin spills. It will prevent any leaked resin from curing to your screen and potentially damaging your printer.

【10" 8K Monochrome LCD】 ELEGOO Saturn 2 adopts a 10-inch 8K mono LCD screen with an HD resolution of 7680x4320 and an ultra-fine XY resolution of 28.5 microns, outputting outstandingly detailed 3D models with a cure time of only 1-3s per layer. The scratch-resistant tempered glass above the LCD screen with 9H hardness for better light transmission and protection.

【43% Larger than Saturn"s Printing Volume】With a build volume of 219x123x250mm / 8.62x4.84x9.84 inch and a 10” large mono LCD screen make the prototype size larger and the curing efficiency higher, you can print one larger model or multiple smaller models in a single batch.

【Fresnel Collimating Light Source】Fresnel collimating light source consists of 48 highly integrated UV LED lights that work with FCL system Fresnel lens to emit a uniform light beam of 405nm wavelength, excellent printing accuracy, and a more smooth surface finish.

【Odor-free Printing Environment】The air filtration system with an activated carbon filter can absorb most of the resin odor, creating an odor-free fresh printing environment. Double heat-conducting copper heat tubes with faster heat transfer and better heat dissipation efficiency prolong the service life of 3D printers

Yeah, we felt the same way when we were trying to print miniatures and other thin featured objects that would break with any rough handling or even when we were trying to remove it from the build plate.

After countless iterations and extensive testing across 10+ popular resin printers we created a resin that prints high detailed models well on both classic RGB LCD SLA printers like the Mars or Photon but also prints fast with the new cutting edge mono lcd screen printers.

Water Washable:we wanted a resin that would be easy to clean with a variety of different options including water, soap and water combos, and even diluted concentrations of alcohol such as 50% rubbing alcohol will easily clean any uncured resin off the print.

Additionally, our water washable durable resin can be cleaned by hand with soft brush, or with ultrasonic cleaners or wash and cure stations. Our resin can easily fit into your cleaning and post cure workflow.

Flexible and non-brittle:Brittle resins is always a sore spot for us because nothing is worse than spending all that time and money printing a highly detailed miniature model, cleaning it, painting it only for it to break the first time it gets handled roughly or accidentally knocked off the table. Which is why we made sure our resins had a bit of flex to them so that they could take some impacts and bending before breaking.

Low Odor: We hate smelly resin that can be smelled as soon as you enter the room, and often the problem is that a lot of resin ingredients can be very smelly. So we took our time to find a blend that would fill all our other requirements as well as have a very low odor profile.

Optimized for MONO LCD Printers:We were really excited to get our first mono printers in late 2020, but imagine our disappointment when we realized that mono screens overexpose many of the "fast" and "ABS like" resins that were made with RGB printers in mind. So we adjusted the photoinitiator composition that controls how fast resins change from a liquid to a solid.

In short, your experience with Ministry of Resin Durable Resins will be that you can get those ultra sharp details you see in fancy renders while still being forgiving enough to print on Mono LCD printers as well as RGB printers.

So you’ve got a fancy LCD based resin printer. They’re great. They’re relatively cheap, and the results are stunning. However, after you use it a bit you’re sure to get familiar with the downsides, such as the wear and tear on the FEP film (the clear plastic film that separates the resin from the LCD screen).

If that FEP film gets a hole in it, resin can leak onto your screen. This alone is a bummer, but if you’re not paying attention and you let the machine try to print, you can end up with resin fused to the screen itself, a huge bummer. In some cases, this may mean that you need a total replacement of the screen. However, in many cases it may not!

Many of the MSLA printers use an LCD screen with a polarized film on it. All of them I am familiar with do, but who knows, there may be some without. Though the manufacturer may not necessarily recommend it, you can actually replace that polarized film!

When this happened to me, I was very frustrated. It was a brand new printer, having only had one successful and very good looking print out of it. As I scraped the cured resin off the screen, I damaged it, and was super bummed. I thought I’d need to replace the printer, or at a minumum, replace the screen. After some research I found that some groups had shared positive results in replacing the polarized sheet on their printer. There wasn’t a ton of information out there though, so I had to do some major trial and error.

Carefully scrape and peel your old one off. This is tricky and scary. You’ll need a clean razor blade and some patience. Keep some scraps to compare to the new film you get.

There will be bits of glue residue left behind. I used alcohol to remove it. Acetone might work as well (but acetone can melt many plastics, so test in a corner). You’re going to need this LCD screen perfectly clean.

This is the tough part. There’s often zero documentation on what film will work! Even the printer manufacturer has no idea as the film comes pre-applied on the displays! I used this one (Affiliate Amazon Link). It worked quite well.

Lay the sheet on the printer, fire up the UV light source, and slowly rotate the sheet to see where it blocks the most light. Look at the video above for this in action. You CANNOT simply cut a rectangle and plop it on. You need to have it at the correct angle.

For adhesive backed polarized sheet, you’re going to need to carefully apply it so that it has no bubbles. There’s often a protective layer on both sides. I’d keep the top layer in place till it is fully applied to avoid marring the surface. Look up videos on applying vinyl decals on how to apply this stuff without bubbles. I’ve been doing that for years, and I still messed it up a couple times.

Alternatively, if your film does not have an adhesive backing, you can literally just tape the edges down. As long as it stays firmly in place, is clean, and there’s no gap between it and the LCD, you’re set!

If you are looking to buy a 3D printer for home use, there are two different technologies that you can choose from: Filament or Resin. You might be asking: is filament or resin better for 3D printing? The answer is: it depends what you will be using it for. Each technology is a different tool meant for a different job. In this article, we will look at the tradeoffs of both filament and resin 3D printers to give you a good idea of which type is right for you. Whether you are buying your first 3D printer or have significant experience in printing, both of these printing technologies have a lot to offer and one of them is likely to be the best choice for your application.

Filament printers build parts by melting plastic and depositing it into many stacked flat slices, or layers, which together form a 3D part. Each layer is created by moving the nozzle in a specified path while it deposits melted plastic. Once the layer is completed, the nozzle is moved up, and the next layer is built on top of the last one, until a full 3D part is created. Filament printers are also referred to as FDM(Fused Deposition Modeling) or less commonly FFF(Fused Filament Fabrication) machines. These terms are interchangeable.

Resin printers form parts from liquid resin which cures, or solidifies, when it is exposed to UV light. Similar to Filament printers, resin printers build parts in layers, but do so by exposing each slice to a pattern of UV light to solidify the resin in the desired locations. You’ll see two types of common resin printers, DLP(digital light processing)and SLA (Stereolithography). These technologies differ in how they cure the resin: DLP printers use a UV LCD screen (basically a small monitor) to cure an entire layer at once, while SLA uses a focused laser which traces a path through each layer. From the outside, these printers are very similar. Since most lower cost resin printers use the DLP technology, we will focus on that technology in this article.

Resin printers form each layer at the base of the vat by shining UV light on selected portions of the liquid resin. Once solidified, the print bed rises a small amount, liquid resin flows into the gap, and the process repeats.

When considering which of these types of 3D printers to purchase, you’ll first need to think about what types of objects you are planning to make. Filament printers are superior for producing strong, larger parts, while resin printers excel at producing fine details and can print much more precisely on small parts.

There is more to the story, though. There are a few important factors to consider when choosing which of these technologies is best for your specific needs.

Note: Creality Experts receives a commission for items you purchase from this page, at no additional cost to you. For more information, please see ouraffiliate link policy.

Resin printers are known for their superior surface quality, both in their ability to resolve small details on prints and for producing models with no visible layer lines. Resin prints actually do have layers, but they are so thin that they are not typically visible to the naked eye. For comparison, each layer on a resin printer is typically 25 - 50 microns thick, while filament printer layers are typically 100 - 300 microns thick.

Resin printers are able to capture very fine details because the resolution of each layer is defined by the size of pixels on the LCD screen, which are typically ~70 microns for consumer DLP 3D printers. By comparison, filament printer resolution is limited by the size of the opening in the nozzle where melted material is deposited, which is typically 0.4 mm (400 microns). It is possible to install smaller nozzles on filament printers, but the smallest viable nozzles are still 200 microns. Such a nozzle will also increase the printing time for the filament printer.

A resin print (left) compared to a filament print (right). Resin printers are superior at capturing small details and producing a very smooth surface finish without visible layer lines, but make sure to consider all of the factors when making a decision on which technology you prefer.

If you are looking to make small, detailed objects such as mini-figures, jewelry prototypes, or parts where high accuracy is critical, resin printers are a great choice.

Parts printed from filament offer high durability, even when using standard plastics such as PLA. In addition, you can use alternate materials such as PETG and ABS which offer increased strength and heat/UV resistance for parts used outdoors. Parts printed by an FDM 3D printer do have substantially less strength when forces are acting across layers, so it is critical to consider the orientation of parts to maximize strength.

Standard resin prints are fairly brittle and are typically not preferred for functional parts that will be exposed to substantial forces. Additionally, since the resin is reactive to UV, exposure to sunlight causes the prints to become increasingly weaker. That said, there are high-strength resins on the market which do help improve the strength of resin prints. Unfortunately, we have found that this resin can be difficult to fully clean off of the printed part and often leaves sticky residue on prints. We have had more success blending this resin with standard resins to balance these negative effects with the improved strength.

Overall,filament printing is a better choice for functional parts, since it offers improved strength and more options for larger parts, which we’ll look at next.

If you are looking to print larger parts, filament printers have a clear advantage. Entry level filament printers such as the Creality Ender 3 have a build volume of 220 x 220 x 250 mm, and many larger volume printers are available as well:Ender 3 Max: 300 x 300 x 350 mm (view on Amazon)

Standard resin printers have a much smaller build volume. Entry level printers such as the Creality Halot-One and Elegoo Mars are standardized at 130 x 80 x 160 mm, while more premium large format Resin printers such as the Elegoo Saturn are 192 x 120 x 150 mm, which is still substantially smaller than even the entry level filament printers.

With typical settings, filament printers can produce single objects much faster. If you add more objects to the print bed, as you might expect, the print time will increase proportionally. This is because the nozzle must trace each part individually.

Resin printers, however (specifically the DLP type) can print multiple objects just as fast as a single object, since the LCD is exposed to each layer for a fixed amount of time regardless of how many parts you are printing. In these cases, resin can often be substantially faster for cases where you need a lot of parts. This is limited by the small size of the print bed, and one advantage of larger resin printers like the Elegoo Saturn is taht you can quickly print a lot of parts on their larger print beds.

Most filament printers require some assembly, but the difficulty can vary. Printers such as the Creality CR-10 and Ender 3 Max arrive mostly assembled, and only take around 15 minutes to assemble. Smaller printers such as the Ender 3 V2 ship in more pieces and usually take around an hour to assemble. Once assembled, leveling the print bed can take a bit of trial and error.

Resin printers, due to their smaller size, typically ship nearly fully assembled. For the Elegoo Mars we use, the only required assembly was sliding the print bed assembly onto the printer. Leveling the bed is simpler than filament printers - you just loosen a few screws in the bed, home it with a sheet of paper underneath, and retighten.

Many filament printers like the Creality Ender 3 V2 are shipped in many parts and require an hour or so to assemble. However, newer filament printers like the Ender 3 Neo series are being shipped almost fully assembled

Once assembled, it can take some time to learn all of the different settings that are available for filament printers in the printer slicer software to get the best quality prints. Many modern slicers such as PrusaSlicer and Cura have premade profiles for most Creality printers which make this process easier, but it is still important to learn how the various settings work since adjustments are often needed to optimize printing for certain types of models. You’ll also need to experiment with how models are oriented on the printer to get the best results.

Resin printers have far fewer settings to configure, and it is easy to get printing quickly once the printer is assembled. The only settings you will need to ever change are the layer time (how long each layer is exposed to the UV light to cure) and settings for support material. Print orientation is also important for resin printers to make sure the print stays adhered to the bed for the entire print.

While resin 3D printers are simple to get set up,the liquid resin adds some complications to using the printer. It is important to note that the resin is a skin irritant, so its important to wear gloves whenever you are coming into close contact with the resin, such as removing completed prints or removing the resin vat. The level of irritation can vary from person to person. We’ve heard stories of people getting serious burns from minutes of contact with the resin, however personally we have not ever had a reaction to small splashes on the skin that can sometimes occur (though we wash them off with soap as soon as it happens to be safe). In addition, the resin has a distinct chemical odor that some people find unpleasant, though there is no conclusive evidence that it is harmful to breathe. It is still recommended to keep resin 3D printers in a well-ventilated area.

Because completed prints will have remaining liquid resin on the surface once they are finished, you will need to post process all prints using a solvent such as Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA). You can purchase specific washing stations for this purpose, or use a lower cost pickle strainer. The solvent will become clouded with resin and become ineffective after a a few uses and will need to be replaced and disposed of safely (you can’t pour it down the drain).

Swapping colors requires carefully pouring the resin from the vat into the resin container, then cleaning the vat (or purchasing dedicated vats for each material).

Another challenge with using resin is thatchanging materials can be time consuming. To do so, you’ll need to carefully pour the resin from your vat back into the resin container, clean the vat out completely, and pour the new resin in the vat. We have purchased a number of spare vats which we use for common colors to avoid the need for changing the color in the vat. The vats can be easily exchanged but the cost of additional vats can add up.

Overall,filament printers are easier to use once they are set up. All of the materials can be handled safely with no protection, and no post processing is required for most prints, other than removing support material, if needed. Swapping colors is also simple, and is just a matter of pulling out the old filament and inserting the new material.

Resin printers have few moving parts—the only one is the Z axis Lead screw which lifts the print bed as the print forms. For that reason, they are much less likely to encounter mechanical issues. However, there are a couple of components that you will most likely need to replace over time:The FEP film on the bottom of the vat can bend or tear - as you print more parts, the thin film which forms the bottom of the vat can become bent or develop slight leaks. When this occurs, you can either replace the film or get an entirely new vat for a fairly low cost. The FEP film replacement is not too difficult but takes some time since there are a lot of screws securing it to the vat.

The LCD can develop issues over time- such as dead pixels or regions, which will cause sections of your prints to have holes in them. Replacement LCDs are available, but require disassembling the outer shell of the machine. Once you access the LCD, you can plug the new LCD in with no soldering or wire splicing required.

Filament printers have moving parts in all 3 axes, which means that over time, parts of the motion system will need replacement or tightening. We have found that these types of repairs are fairly infrequent. Most of the maintenance of filament printers relates to the filament path - the extruder which pushes filament, and the hot end which melts it before depositing it onto the part.The extruder gear, which contacts the filament and pushes it into the hot end can wear over time, and the spring loaded extruder mechanism can crack if your 3D printer is using an extruder made of plastic. These issues can be avoided by ensuring your printer has a steel extruder gear and an all-metal extruder.

The internal components of the hot end tend to wear out over time since it is exposed to high temperatures. You can replace most individual components of the hot end, or replace the entire assembly if time is more of a factor than cost. We have a detailed guide on repairing these hot end issues, and feel that repairing the hot end is fairly simple.

In the past, purchasing a resin 3D printer was substantially more expensive than a filament printer. However, there are a number of lower-cost resin machines on the market now using DLP technology. Because of this, budget resin 3D printers are priced in the same range as entry level filament 3D printers. This means that if you’re looking for a budget resin 3D printer or a budget filament 3D printer, you have plenty of options. For higher end printers, resin tends to be more expensive. We’ll look at some side by side comparisons to give you a general idea:

Its important to consider the total down of ownership of a 3D printer, because the ongoing costs can be a more substantial portion of the total cost than the purchase price of the machine itself. The majority of ongoing costs are the materials you use to make parts: the filament or resin.

Overall, the cost of resin is higher per kilogram, but you will likely use less with a resin printer due to its smaller build size. If you are planning to print larger parts on your resin printer, you can reduce resin usage by making the parts hollow and including a drain hole to allow the unused resin in the center cavity to drain out. For filament printers, parts typically use a meshed infill pattern, which saves material.

Another smaller cost to consider is maintaining the 3D printer and making sure you have required supplies. Resin printers cost a bit more in this area, since you’ll need to maintain a stock of disposable gloves and a solvent such as IPA to post-process prints. Repair parts for either type of printer are typically fairly inexpensive, and you won’t be buying them often.

Now that you have a general idea of which technology is better for your needs, the next step is to take a look at a few printers in each category to learn more. If you are looking for your first 3D printer, a good place to start is with our entry level picks for both filament and resin printers.

The Ender 3 V2 Neo offers a number of improvements over the original Ender 3 series like auto bed leveling, and due to its ease of use and low cost, it is our top recommendation for a first 3D printer. We have purchased many printers in the Ender 3 series and have been very pleased with them.

The Elegoo Mars is a great resin 3D printer at a low cost. The 2 Mono version includes an upgraded LCD and build plate which are definitely worth the added cost. We have used two Elegoo machines in our workshop and have seen impressive results considering the low price point. They were very easy to set up and begin printing with, and have been very reliable.

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