sunrise legacy hot tub lcd panel brands

With a wide selection of models to choose from, our hot tubs offer something for everyone. All Sunrise spas are manufactured with only premium quality materials and boast an extensive range of high-end features, making us your luxury hot tub choice. Hydrotherapy massage jets help relieve pain and tension associated with everyday life, while our beautiful lighting and built-in sound systems can set the mood while you soak. Create your own personal oasis with a Sunrise hot tub today!

The SX Series hot tubs take comfort, relaxation, therapy and entertainment seriously. Every feature that you could want in a hot tub can be included on these models. Relaxing waterfalls, interior perimeter and exterior cabinet corner LED lighting, Bluetooth audio with thundering bass, deluxe water management system, a wide variety of luxurious interior colors and exterior cabinet options, and comfortable headrests to top off your investment in comfort and relaxation.

Note: The control system brand name is usually different from the hot tub brand name. You can often determine the make of the control system by looking inside the spa"s equipment area.

If it is a flow issue, it is not necessary to repair the spa heater parts.  The problem could be due to a dirty spa filter.  Remove the spa cartridge, clean the filters, and check the flow rate or pressure.  Other causes could be a broken valve, clogged spa jets or pipes, or a broken pump impeller.  You will notice this from an obvious reduced flow into your spa or hot tub.

The thermostat is that dial you turn to increase the heat. Most new hot tubs have a solid state thermostat attached to a circuit board.  If you use a knob instead of a red arrow, check your thermostat to know if the unit is faulty or if it is a corroded sensor bulb.

A heater element is like a cooking element but is designed to be immersed in water during operation.  A spa heater element burns out fast if it is used without water around it.  Hot tub elements can be tested to see if there is a short in the coating that envelopes the heating element.

Older spas use pneumatic spa controllers.  You have to get out of the tub to access the panel to adjust the spa’s temperature.  If this bothers you, it may be time for you to upgrade to a digital or electronic spa controller.

To replace the complete hot tub heater assembly is the best option for spa heaters that are older than 8 years.  The galvanic corrosion to the stainless steel tube can lead to pinhole leaks.  New and complete heater assemblies also have new sensors that are easier to replace and has less room for installation errors.

You will need to check for voltage at the heater terminals.  If there is voltage, it is possible the heating element is bad and needs to be replaced.  If there is no voltage, follow the plumbing from the heater’s end to the tub.  If there is no restriction device like a filter past the heater, the issue could be restriction.  Heaters are provided with pressure switches to test for back pressure which allows the heater to come on.  If there is no back pressure, it won’t activate.  In some cases, a filter may be added or an eyeball restrictor in the return of the tub to allow restriction.

Check the flow of water through the heater before replacement of the high limit switch.  If the switch is tripped, reset and run the tub.  Put your hand on the heater housing and if it gets hot before water gets in the tub, it means a flow problem.  Check the returning water to the tub if it is moving.  If not, remove the filter and try again.  Check where the limit switch mounts to the heater and look for a hot spot in the heater.  If an area in the housing is hotter that the other parts, the element may be too close to the sheathing and should be replaced.

Remove the union nut ends and measure beginning from the flange end.  Take measurements from points A, B, C. D, etc. and write numbers down.  Keep measuring until you get to the H and I as spa heater tubes must be similar.

And in the summer, you can turn your hot tub into a cool tub simply by turning the heater off.  For quicker cool down, take the spa cover off and let the jets run.

And last but not the least, the best way to keep your hot tub in tip top shape is to keep its components in good working order and replace spa parts like spa heater when needed.

If your hot tub control panel isn’t working then when it can be really frustrating. Having said that, sometimes all you need to do is a simple reset on your hot tub control panel to clear the problem and to get it back into action. However, you might find that you need to reset it several times, in which case this could indicate a more serious problem. You might also find that your hot tub control panel is flashing at you, beeping at you or showing you all sorts of worrying symbols. You if your control panel is is not doing what you expect and you need some help with it then this is the post for you.

So, how do I reset my hot tub control panel? You can reset a hot tub control panel by switching it off, waiting for between 10 and 20 seconds and then switching it back on again. If the error signal continues on the control panel then you will need to consult your hot tub manual to see what the problem is. If the control panel simply seems not to be working you can check the connections to it and also see if any water has got in it which could be the problem. If all seems well then you may need to replace your control panel or consult your hot tub dealer.

Hot tub control panel error messages –  If your hot tub control panel has been showing an error message you will want to know how to clear it.  Even if you have sorted out the problem that the error message is indicating it might still be continuing to show as a problem on the control panel.

If this is the case, then there may well be a method of clearing or resetting the hot tub control panel without switching it off. Often, you need to hold two different buttons down or a brief sequence of buttons to achieve this.  As all control panels are different you will need to either consult your hot tub manual or have a quick look on the internet or maybe ring your hot tub dealer to find out exactly what to do. If you can’t do a soft reset reset then just follow the instructions below.

The control panel has crashed –  Bear in mind that hot tub control panels are basically small computers and from time to time they may well suffer from software errors and crash. If you know that there is a way to soft boot or soft reset your control panel then try this first if it has crashed but the most likely thing that will work is if you switch it off and then on again.

If you do go for the switch it off and on again option then make sure that the power is completely off for a good 10 or 15 seconds to allow all the data to clear and for the the software to reset itself. Once you’ve done this turn the power back on again and allow the hot tub control panel to settle down and hopefully, it will have solved the problem.

If your hot tub control panel still isn’t working properly or displaying properly then there are a number of things that you can try to see if you can get it working again. However, if your hot tub is still under warranty then you should consult your dealer rather than trying to fix the problem yourself.

Any work you try to do on the hot tub yourself could invalidate your warranty. If you have an older hot tub then, before calling out a technician, why not try the following to see if you can get the control panel to work again?

Check for water – Obviously, water and electricity are not a great mix and one of the most common causes of problems in control panels and electrical components in hot tubs is that they have become damp. As soon as moisture enters anything electrical the water starts to conduct electricity and cause problems. Obviously, if the components remain damp, they can also corrode which again will lead to big problems.

So,  has your control panel recently got very wet?  If you have a control panel on a cable so that you can use it actually in the hot tub, has it been dropped completely in the water by any chance?  Now, of course, you would expect that the control panels would be manufactured to be able to withstand submersion in water.

They are being used in a hot tub after all!  However, it is possible that the waterproof sealing around the control panel has become damaged and some water has actually got inside. If this is the case then you can try a trick that works really well for mobile phones that have been dropped in water.

Find a rectangular container and fill it with ordinary cooking rice. Put the control panel inside the container and bury it in the rice. Leave it overnight. The idea is that the rice will soak the moisture out of the control panel and with a little bit of luck it might start working properly again.

If the rice method doesn’t work, and you are convinced that your control panel is still wet, then leaving it in a warm dry spot inside for a few days may well do the trick as well. In theory at least, if moisture can get into a control panel it can also, in the right conditions evaporate out as well.

Check for corrosion on connections – The next thing to do do is to have a look at where the control panel connects to the rest of the hot tub.  If we are talking about a handheld control panel then it will probably be connected to the hot tub with a cable.

Check both ends of the cable particularly where it goes into the hot tub as it will probably plug into a socket.  Does the socket look corroded by any chance? For a control panel that is built into the hot tub if you have a look inside the service bay of the hot tub you will probably see that it is also connected to the hot tub via a cable which will no doubt be plugged in somewhere.  Again check for corrosion.

If you do see corrosion on the connection of the cables to your control panel what should you do?  The first thing to do is to switch the hot tub off at the mains as you do not want to risk any electrical shock.

If you can undo the connection then you need to remove the corrosion as much as possible. You can use warm water with baking soda dissolved into it along with an old toothbrush to dissolve the corrosion and scrub it off the connections. Hopefully, once you have done this and connected everything up again the problem with your control panel will be solved.

Power down overnight and restart – Often, as with many electrical appliances and particularly those that have some sort of computer inside them, turning it off and switching it back on again will solve a number of problems. The general advice in this sort of situation is that you wait for 10 or 15 seconds before switching the appliance back on. This makes sure that everything has completely drained from the appliance and gives it time to reset. This should work with your hot tub as well.

However, if a short switch-off period doesn’t work then it’s all always worth powering down and waiting for a few hours before powering back up again. This will 100-percent guarantee that the hot tub has reset itself and will also give it chance to cool down. I’m not sure if there is any scientific fact in this but you might just find that doing this major reset will solve your control panel problem and set your hot tub back to normal.

Check the connecting cable for damage –  If your control panel is connected to your hot tub by a cable, have a good look at the cable to make sure that it isn’t damaged in any way.  The obvious things to look for are cuts and scrapes where are the cable’s inside could be touching and causing a short circuit.

Even somewhere where there is a bump or a place in the cable where it’s become trapped in something it’s possible that there could be internal damage that could be creating a short circuit.  Any damage to the cable like this will mean that the control panel itself will not operate properly.

Check that any touch buttons aren’t damaged or permanently depressed –It might not be obvious when you first look at your control panel but if it has touch buttons on it check to see if they have been damaged or if they  are not popping back into position after use.

Any fault with a button or touch sensor on the control panel could be causing a problem. Unfortunately, fixing one individual button isn’t going to be a particularly easy job. It might even mean that you need to replace the control panel entirely.  However, if you know that one of the buttons is slightly temperamental and is causing problems it might be that you can just touch it or tweak it to temporarily fix it.

Replace the control panel – If all else fails with your control panel then you might need to just bite the bullet and replace it.  The process of replacing a control panel is relatively easy as they are essentially plug and play, you just need to make sure that you get an exact replacement.

If you are in any doubt as to whether it is the control panel or another part of the hot tub that is causing the issue it might be worth calling in a service engineer rather than just shelling out for a new control panel and hoping for the best.  You do not want to have purchased a new control panel only to find that it is showing the same error codes as the old one.

This would indicate a problem with the hot tub rather than the control panel itself. However, if you are sure that it is the control panel that is the issue then it is most likely a fairly easy DIY job to replace it.  At the very least make sure that you can return the control panel if you do actually find that once you have bought it it’s the hot tub rather than the control panel with the problem.

Apart from resetting the electronic Components on a hot tub there are also a couple of other hard reset options as well. The first one is on the heating element. If the heater becomes too hot for whatever reason then there is a high limit switch on it and it will cut out for safety sake. If the rest of your hot tub seems to be working ok and you are sure that you have got electricity coming to it but the water is cold then the chances are that your heater has cut out.

To reset a hot tub heater you need to locate the red reset button which will probably be on the heater in the service bay of the hot tub. All you need to do is to press it to reset it and everything should be good to go. However, if it immediately cuts out again, or as soon as you switch it on the circuit breaker kicks in, it means that there is probably a fault with your heating element. If this is the case you could try putting a new heating element in or calling out a service engineer.

The GFCI circuit breaker on a hot tub will trip if there is an electrical fault in the hot tub. Once the circuit breaker has tripped no more electricity will reach the hot tub. If this has happened all you need to do is to switch the switch back on again. If there is a problem with the hot tub then it will simply refuse to switch on or it will trip out again immediately. If this is the case then further investigation will be needed and the best advice would be to get out a qualified service engineer in this situation.

Why does my hot tub’s breaker keep tripping? The hot tubs breaker trips when there is an electrical fault or short circuit in the hot tub. If the circuit breaker keeps tripping then there is a problem that’s needs sorting out. The chances are that there is some loose wiring somewhere, some moisture has got into an electrical component or something like the heating element needs replacing. If the breaker keeps tripping on a regular basis, or won’t switch back on again, then the best advice is to get a qualified hot tub engineer to come and test the hot tub to find out what the issue is.

What Causes a Hot Tub to Overheat? A hot tub overheats when the heating element hasn’t got a strong enough flow of water going around it to dissipate the heat that it is generating. When this happens, for safety sake, the hot tub high limit sensor will kick in and then the heating element will automatically cut out. Low water flow can be caused by a number of issues such as low water level in the hot tub, blocked or dirty filters, a damaged pump, blocked water intakes, blocked jets or possibly an airlock.

Hot tub has sat for awhile, and during some freezing temps. I may have had water setting in the lines… Just replaced the pumps and refilled the tub, and all the sounds react as if it’s working but not one jet works except the bottom return jet.

I have a problem with my hot tub has 2 jets and a blower jet 1 works fine jet 2 the other side of hot tub is not working makes a noise but nothing flowing through.. Has 2 setting press once and it’s carm then press it again and it’s mega powerful now i have nothing.. Any1 suggest anything? Going to look inside tmro see if any1 I can see anything noticeable?

Bob, the pump working on filteration cycle likely means the pump and PWA is fine and you may have a bad topside panel. Check that the cable is still intact and hasn’t been severed by a rodent. If the cable is good try a new panel. If all else fails contact your local Sundance Support Desk to book a diagnostic and repair of your Sundance spa.

Hot tub was working fine until I drained and filled. Have loosened the unions to eliminate possibility of air lock. I am getting power to both of my pumps from the control panel but it only makes a clicking sound and the control screen shows everything is normal however heater or jets not running.

Hi Nigel thanks for the reply. The basket filter is good and clean and all the jets are cranked open. Some jets spit and sputter and some dont work at all. Its very odd. Would i need to drain the tub again to locate and check the impellor? I heard concerns that the impellor may be damaged so it doesnt push enough for all the jets but i would expect they would atleast bubble a little rather then not at all. Thanks for your time. Ive called beachcomber before and i think they dont have any old timers left that even know my old system lol.

No paperwork was left. It has been working for years, however, recently I noticed it was tripping the breaker. After a few days I noticed half of the jets stopped working. Now – a few weeks later – I am getting a AFP – FLO error code. I have tried draining and refilling the hot tub, however, the same error code shows. When I press the jet 1 button, I am hearing a struggling sound coming from the pump area. When I press the jet 2 button, nothing happens. There are no longer any working jets.

Justin check to see if your circulation pump is either plugged up in the impellor assy or locked up in the motor. If the circ pump is not operating it could produce the FLO message. A locked up pump could also cause the GFCI breaker to trip. The pump motor could need a new start capacitor or the motor itself could be on the way out. If all else fails contact your local Spa Service Support Desk to book a Diagnostic and Repair of your Sunrise Spa. If you are in a winter climate region protect your Spa with a space heater until help can arrive to either service the spa or winterize it til the weather is conducive for a repair.

Thanks for the reply! I was able to get inside the hot tub today. Turns out it is a 2008 Sunrise Spa Meridian Model. There looks to be 2 pumps. The one that is hooked up to “jet 1” makes a struggling sound when pressed but does not actually activate the jets. The one that is hooked up to “jet 2” makes a clicking sound but does not turn on. The pumps look identical (Waterway Executive 56 Spa Pump PF-40-1N22C).

I have a ’98 Sundance Altimar. Had a FLO error and confirmed the smaller recirc pump was bad. Replaced and all operation was normal. A week later, the 2 speed pump was sounding normal, but the jet volume was down. A day later, the FLO error came back. I haven’t opened it up yet to troubleshoot further. I do see significant air bubbles from the 2 speed jets. The heater is working and the recirc return port also has a lot of bubbles. I replaced the recirc pump without draining the tub…clamped the tubing before and after, then swapped the pumps. I’m hoping I find a lose connection at the input of the recirc pump, or, I have an airlock somewhere possibly related to the recirc pump change. I hope I don’t have a damaged (new) recirc pump…

Finally opened up the tub to do some troubleshooting. 1. removed the filter and ran the 2 speed on high for 10 minutes. Jet volume still feels low for the 2 speed. FLO error returned. The second jet pump runs normally with high water volume at all the jets. Can the second pump performance rule out a dirty filter?…seems it would. 2. put the multimeter on the flow switch. power off, switch is open, power on, FLO error, switch is open. pump 1 on, heater comes on and switch is closed. 3. put the multimeter on the recirc pump. no voltage in any scenario. (small piece of good news in that the new recirc pump may still be fine. is there a bench test I can do to confirm that?) 4. took the leads off the flow switch and connected them briefly. FLO error continued. no voltage to the recirc. Temperature set point is always above water temperature in all tests. I’m fearing this is a board problem related to the flow switch. 5. trying to address the low volume from pump 1…loosened the unions on pump one. no air noises…waited for some water, then tightened back up. loosened the clamps on the recirc. no air noises…waited for some water, then tightened back up. UGH! I’m looking for a smoking gun somewhere here! I think this is two different problems. I plan on draining the tub and inspecting the recirc and pump 1 impellars. I’ll also look at the pump switch, but I’m afraid that may be a board issue. A lot of stuff here…any guidance is very appreciated1

The circulating pump works fine but the jet pump just clicks and nothing! Do I need to change the jet pump Orvis there something I can try first . It’s a sunrise spa

I have an older series 500 beachcomber tub. Absolutely love it. It was drained and sitting emoty for a year. I cleaned it. Pulled all the jets off and flushed it 4 times. Filled it and it runs fine jets run well but no air from them. One was kind of burping air for a bit but nothing at all now. Any suggestions?

On an ’06 Great Lakes Manitou, I noticed water temperature drop since winter’s freezing temperatures have arrived. The JETS light on display panel is alit but no jets run. I can hear system trying to start up. If I press JETS button, high speed jets kick in. When I press JETS button again, the low speed commences and jets and heater start working. Any ideas?

Nigel, can you help? I have a 2010 Clearwater St. Andrews spa with ISIS system. Circulation pump and Jet Pump #1 are not working. No fuses are blown. When you switch Jet Pump #1 with Jet pump #2 the pump works in #2 so it is not the pump that is the issue. The spa was not recently refilled so airlock is not the problem. Control panel clicks when you press the topside control but pump does not come on. Any suggestions?

Hi, I turned off the power to my hot tub to drain it. Cleaned it w ginger, refilled it w water & turned it back on. I can feel the hot tub on but the panels on top of the hot tub (to turn the jets/etc on) will not come on. Please advise.

Hi! I have a sunrise spa posoideion model. It is about 5 years old and In November the hot tub overheated. I powered down by fuse inside house and when I powered back up pump 2 was running continuously. When i pressed pump two on topside panel it would say it is off but jets would keep running full speed and would overheat again. Eventually the fuse for pump 2 blew and without pump 2 working the hot tub would stay at 40 degrees C (104 F). When we replaced the fuse for pump 2 it did the same thing. Ran full force all the time. We then disconnected pump 2 and tub seems fine. But the topside panel is still reading the pump 2 when 2 is pushed. Originally was told that this was a temp sensor issue which on my model we would have to replace the heating element with the sensor. I purchased that part but now the person who told me that it was that part says now it is not. Can someone tell me if they have any idea what would be the issue here. Sound like a pump 2 issue? A topside panel issue? or sensor issue?

Cynthia it sounds like pump two runs to some capacity. Also sounds like the topside panel works to some capacity. First you would want to check that the hi-limit sensor is in the correct position and sensing the temperature of the water inside the heater. The hi-limit sensor is different then your temp sensor. Hi-limit sensor position changes from spa model to spa model. Most of them have the sensor tucked in against the outside of the heater manifold. Some of them have the sensor inserted into a dry well inside of the heater. If this sensor is not inserted in the dry well completely and or tucked tight against the manifold then it could be sensing more ambient air temperature then water temperature. If the air temperature is cold then it could be turning on the jet pump for freeze protection reasons. The same applies to the temp sensor. You want it sensing water temperature and not air temperature. If these two sensors check out to be ok then you could have a bad PWA or a stuck pump relay on the PWA. PWA is your main circuit board or motherboard.

I am i Michigan and it is cold tonight. So you think the shaft is warped or something? Am i looking at a couple hundred dollars? And if so i sure dont want this too happen again especially in this cold as this is my favorite time to enjoy my hot tub.

I was wondering if you could help me with a problem on my hot tub? The heat works, I hear it cycle from time to time but when I go to sit in it and run the jets, it will run for a cycle and then shut off and won’t get anything again. When I push the button I can hear it clicking but nothing. If I wait a few hours I can go back and run the jets again but just for one cycle. It’s an old QCA spa. Thanks

I have a 2008 Creative Spa Design hot tub. The jets worked (except one motor), we drained it and then we refilled the tub. Now none of the jets work and it’s not pushing eater. I’m getting error code FL-1. I need to replace the filters still, but the old ones were still in decent condition. What could be the issue? Thank you, Josh

Pam it sounds like you may have a bad topside control. Check the ribbon cable from the topside down to the circuit board for any breaks. If the cable looks ok try to disconnect the cable from the circuit board and re-connect it. If the cable looks ok and the connection is ok try a new topside panel.

I have a Maxx Infiniti hot tub model Atlantis that I am having issues with, it only has 1 pump. Scenario is: when I turn the hot tub on the high jets come on and stays on until the desired temperature is reached. Then it shuts down and the low pump will not start. When I push the jet button it makes a clunking noise, and the low pump will not start. If I push the jet button a second time it starts on high. Any ideas where to start trouble shooting?

I have a HA440NG 2 speed pump that sounds like it isn’t running 100% perfect on its first speed. I have a balboa control panel. But if I double press Jets 1 and then Press again (to turn it back to speed 1) the normal circulation works well. But it will never start on the first circulation speed without me doing this. Does this mean an air lock?

I just replaced the pump and motor on my tub and it now comes to temp just fine and Jet 1 works great on low and high. The problem is Jet 2 isn’t blowing on either high or low. When I hit the button, I can hear the motor running each time, but nothing is coming out of the jets.

I have a 2015 Caldera Spa Paradise Series Martinique Spa that was moved from a friend house. Was working fine prior to move but had not been run all winter. Filled tub and control panel turns on. Lights work and it seems there is some low circulation occurring (can see it in the water). Push on “jets” button and I only hear a “click” but nothing more. I have opened the pipes and fairly sure there is no air lock. Any help would be appreciated.

Just bought a house that came with a hot tube… I didn’t use it when we got it but would turn the jets on every so often to make sure hot tub was working. Today I drained/cleaned my tub. Once I filled it back up and turned it on, no water was coming out of the jets. I primed it by the filter primer (nothing happend) so I tired all 3 unions and still nothing.. now I don’t know what to do. Any help?? Thanks

Hi Nigel, my husband is trying to get the hot tub up and running that came with our house we bought last year. Gatsby 65 6 person. They must have replaced the control panel to a different digital model at some point so it is not the manufacturer CP, but works great and no error codes. All is working great accept half of the jets… the set of jets on one of the lounges and another set right next to that one on the seat jets as well as the center foot jets. We don’t know if it is airlocked or if the air switch/knobs are malfunctioning. Any suggested steps to figure this out would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!!

Viking spa model galaxy, 03092722, pump and inside tub light cycle on and off every 1 second. Top 4 sprayers throw water with this cycling on and off. Breaker good, water level good. Can see relay on top piping before motor click on and off with motor and lights. Topside digital readout flashing 100 then 54 (refill water temp?) And it appears I have no control over this(push buttons, nothing happens). This is obviously not normal. I’m worried consistent on and off will burn something up. Any suggestions?

Hi Doug. If your water level checks out try disconnecting your smaller remote topside panel if you have one. If you only have one topside control panel you could have a bad PWA ie circuit board.

We recently moved into a house that had a hot tub. It’s a Four Winds Grand Bahama 0610-13135. The panel has two levels of jet. The lower level is the one we have use, pretty much exclusively, because there is a small leak in the waterfall feature that causes water to spill out of the spa. Recently, the lower level seems to have stopped working. The middle button that activates the lower level jets still turns on the pump, but it seems as though 2/4 of the jets aren’t working (it basically looks like it does when it is cycling to clean the spa). I can hear what seems to be a pump trying to turn on, but it does not change the amount of water going through. I have cleaned the filters, and have not recently emptied the spa. Any suggestions would be most appreciated.

I recently opened my hot tub for the season. Worked fine last summer. Cleaned out & added water. Now only half of the low speed jets are working. The button to control high speed …I just hear a “click” but nothing. I press again and it will go back to the low speed but only half of the jets.

Please help. Also my hot tub heats up good. But I have a leak coming from the tube the holds the heating units. I put a temp patch.. but can this tube be replaced? The pressure gadge sits on top. Please advise . Thanks

I have a jacuzzi tub and when I turned on its work for 30sec and then motel stop working I pull the motor out and test it its work good outside what do I have to do

Hello, I have a Master Spas Twilight 7.2 that was just purchased in June. Pump 1is a 2 speed pump and works fine….after the 15 minute cycle it turns off, as expected, but can be turned back on instantly. Pump 2 is a 1 speed pump (high speed only). After the 15 minute cycle it can not be turned back on for anywhere from 5 to 20 minutes. It is like it has to cool down. We have ran it with he front panel off to see if it needed more air irculation and still the same. When we try to turn it on. The panel shows that the pump is running, but it isn’t, there is no sound at all coming from the pump.

Hi Nigel – Thank you so much for all of your expertise and offering great advice to the the public. I have a 2002 Cal Spas hot tub that was given to me with not a lot of details of it’s performance. It’s a large 6 person tub with what appears to be 3 motors. Serial number is 02S-009255. The only information I was given was that the last owner was having trouble with one of the jets. I assumed that was one jet, not all of the jets on the JET 2 push button. Otherwise, I’m not sure I would’ve taken on the challenge. Haha. We filled up the hot tub, it heated up perfectly and when we tested the top control panel, we realized what the person meant by jet problem. In order of buttons, there is LIGHT, JET 1, JET2. The light works great, jet 1 works great (one push low speed, 2 for high, 3 off) this controls all of the jets on the upper left side of the hot tub. I’m assuming these are controlled by the smaller of the 2 pumps. The JET 2 button is responsible for all of the jets on the right side, the waterfall and the foot jets in the middle of the spa. I’m assuming this is the big 6HP motor. When you press on the Botton, nothing happened. If you put your ear down to the electrical box you can hear a slight tick which tells me the top control is functioning OK. In our research, we discovered this could be an airlock and hoping that is all it is. We tried burping the jets (opening up, depressing the buttons), tried loosening the union nuts, maybe not hard enough though because we feared we would cause a leak. We also see there is a little black knob on that big pump and loosed and tighten that slightly. Again, maybe not enough on that one. We also took the filter out and used a plunger to try and dislodge the airlock. Unfortunately, none of those methods have been successful. Do you have any other advice? Thank you in advance for your time and valuable knowledge. -Susan

We just bought a hot tub we tested it before we moeved it and it worked great, we drained it and moved it a mile down the road to our house refilled it and now the jets want work, they go through the testing cycle and a few come on but then they shut off, we have tried all the steps for a airlock but they are still not working

Hi Nigel – Our spa came with the house when we bought it 4 years ago. It’s a South Seas Spa, 2010, model 852B DX. We just filled it about 2 weeks ago. Looks like there are 2 pumps – Jets 2 with 1 speed and Jets 1 that runs 2 speeds. The Jets 1 doesn’t seem to be working. It sounds like it tries to start but doesn’t. This happens about every 5 min or so and the pump unit gets extremely hot to the touch. The error code could possibly be DH which says the spa has shut down and the sensor has detected the water to be too hot. The water was only at about 104 which is typical so we’re thinking we couldn’t quite read the message properly. And Jets 1 continued to work. Can you help us to determine why Jets 2 isn’t working?

Hi Alexandra. If the pump is tripping the main breaker then yes you may have a problem with the pump or a restriction in the pump. Also if this is your main circulation pump and supplies water to the heater your heater could be tripping the breaker as soon as the flow switch senses flow after the pump turns on. There are many cleaning products to help with spa mtce. I attached a link to just a few that we offer that might help with your water chemistry and treatment: https://aqua-tech.ca/store/index.php/hot-tub-chemicals/miscellaneous-cleansers-testing-supplies-and-more.html

Hooked up a serenity spa. Filled the tub and during the purge the tub pump will cut in for 5 seconds and then cut in and out. We tried releasing the lines for air lock but water came through. Came up heater element may be dry. Wait! What do we do? What could be the problem?

Hey I have 2004 coast spa. One side the jets are working on pump 1 , but nothing happens on pump 2 and the right side jets do not turn on , any advice how to diagnose it? The light on the panel comes on for both pump 1 and pump 2

Hi Med. Can you send me a picture of the control board/panel you are working with? I may be able to help you further that way. Send it to parts@aqua-tech.ca

My 2006 CalSpa 6200 has been acting strange. I recently replaced both jet pumps because the one plugged into Option button wouldnt turn on at all (I found a black and burned pin in the connector to the circuit board here) and the pump 1 was seized at the shaft. The top-side panel was only responding to the Jets and Light button, Temp and Option button did not do anything. I replaced the top-side panel with a new one and the temp button worked for about an hour, but now does not respond. Spa is at proper temperature and Jets 1 will respond, but even with the new pump, both low and high speed seem less powerful then before. *Does the circulation pump feed into this Jets 1 line somewhere?* I have removed the filter and run the tub that way and it did not the pressure at all. I have checked for airlock. Would a bad circuit board cause all of these problems at once? Thanks for your help

Really impressed with your willingness to help so many hope your business is as awesome as you. I have a 2015 dimension one nautilus. The gecko system still connects to my phone but the speakers work rarely and intermittently. Ideas? They worked perfectly for like a month. I’m afraid maybe I filled too much water as it was touching the speakers on the inside. Also just refilled the tub for the first time and I feel like the pressure on setting one is not as hard as it was before on one side. Just want to make sure I get the max output I can get on both speeds. Thanks!

All the jets except one are going well. the one lower down that is usually a misty jet, delivers only big bubbles that rise to the top. I have opened the side jets, turned the jets on and off a few times to see if the lower one (that I think is related to the heater?) but it just quietly bubbles away like a kid in a bathtub

Hi. We have a Creative Spa. I just drained, purged and cleaned it. The pump is running with water coming out of the water fall and the system heated up nicely. However, I can’t get the jets to work. They came on briefly while filling but won’t now. I removed the filters from their setting, loosened the output pipes on both pumps until water flowed and then closed them back up. Nothing. The control panel works to set the temperature, the light is on next to jet 1, but nothing else on pad seems to work. If I push the light, it does not turn in. The buttons to activate the jets do nothing. Help!!!

I have a Balboa 500Z with a Lights, Temp, Jets, and Aux button. When I hit the jets button they water only comes out of one side of the hot tub. When I hit the Aux button, which normally is a super boost, nothing happens and still no water coming out of the one side of the tub. What do you think my issue could be?

Hello I have a 2015 Beachcomber Model 321that came with the house I recently purchased. It’s been working fine up until today. I can hear the motor running for about 5 seconds but the jets are not working so no water is circulating then the motor shuts off. There are no error messages on the display panel. The heat is fine. Can you suggest anything. Thank you!

Hello, we got an old hot tub from mid 90s recntly. Got eveything working except for the pump. Its a two speed pump, all the wiring seems to be correct. The pump does not go into high speed. We pulled the pump and tried running it dry. High gear kicked on just fine from the top control. Put it back in and no high speed. Figured it was a bad pump and got a new one. Tested the new one dry and works fine. Plugged it into the system and the same thing hppens, high speed does not turn on when there is water circulating. No idea what to try next, any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

Water heats, checked breaker, filter , and all those things.. press jets1 it comes on full speed when I press jets2 I get nothing.. I do hear a click sound from the control board each time I push the jets 2 button on the control panel.. I have reset breaker..

I have a Hot Springs Prodigy H hot tub (S/N H2F1859). It sat with water in it for about a year. When I powered it on and pushed the jets button, it tripped the breaker box. It did that for a couple of times, and I pushed the reset button. The next day I tried it again. This time it did not trip the breaker box, however the jets did not work. When I push the “jet” or “clean” button, it makes an initial “click” sound but doesn’t do anything. All of the jet dials are turned to the on position. I pushed water through the filter pipe with a hose, in case there was an airlock, but that did not work. I also checked the ozonator for air, but I heard no “hissing sound.” Any other suggestions?

I have a Spa Builder Lx-15. All control panel buttons were working a few days ago. Today when I tried to use the spa only the heating, cooling, and jet 2 buttons were working. The jet 1, air bubbles, and light buttons no longer work. No sound is made and they appear to just be dead.

Hi, I have a waterway pump on my hot tub. The pump is not running. I can hear the control panel clicking trying to turn it on. I recently filled the hot tub and ensured there were no airlocks, and the pump was working correctly and sounded fine. When I checked on the tub a couple of days later the water was cold, there is power to the control panel and it was working correctly but the pump is not turning on. I turned off the breaker and turned it back on and the pump still is not running or making any noise. This is a new pimp and has only been in use for maybe 8 months. Could the pump have ceased up?

refurbishing a hot tub that has been sitting for about 4 years. Realized that the controller was totally gone so I replaced that. The two speed pump runs okay when the hot tub is empty however when the tub is full of water the low speed just clicks on and off but it will not go to high speed. When I drain the tub it once again works on high speed and low speed. The filter is new.

I have an older Balboa, the pump went out and I replaced it. I wired it according to the schematic on the pump and as soon as I plugged it in the jets started on high. So I wired it back to how the old pump was and the low speed started up when I plugged it in. I went to turn the jets on high and it doesn’t go in high it just hums loud so I switch it back off. It will not shut the pump down now unless I unplug it and it will not go to high jets when I try just makes noise. Bad control panel or topside control? I do have a break in the wires to the topside control and will be replacing it but will that make the pump buzz real loud when I try to start it.

I have a Sundance Cameo (1999). I replaced the impeller on the 1 stage pump. When I refilled the tub I lost track of time and it overflowed. When I got it drained to correct level I turned the tub on and it started up seemingly fine. Circ pump, heater and low stage of 2 stage started running. Problem is that when I went to kick on high stage of 2 stage pump it wouldn’t come on. Pushing the button on the control panel did nothing for the 2 stage. Single stage, air, light all work. The icon on the control panel stays on low and the button will not go to high or off. Did I maybe flood the Control Panel and fry it? The water was running over the panel when it overflowed.

I have a south seas spa 743D and all of my wiring is correct. My control panel doesn’t have any errors, so when I press the jets button a clicking noise is the only thing that happens. The pump does not hum or anything, it is a new pump.

Nigel, Thanks for the response. Unfortunately when I press the Jets to button it acts as if there’s no power to it, (sort of like the home button on an iPhone when the phone is turned off – and actually the same thing that happens with all of the hot tub buttons when the power is off), there is no click and no light. so I would suspect it is not telling the circuitboard to supply voltage to the connector. Right?

Think of the topside control panel as a remote control Bruce. So if all the other buttons are working and just the one button is not then check the ribbon cable from the panel to the board for breaks and if the connection to the board is secure. If that all checks out then you probably have a bad panel.

I have a 2004-2005 Master Spa Legend Series Spa LSX 1050 FST. Just came up with an funny issue with circulation pump. Panel read low flow, checked filters, removed filters and ran, then removed the covers down by the feet area of the spa to clean the back side to allow for go flow outward (they did have some debris). Put everything back together, filled spa up to full level, kept filters out and still having low flow. I noticed the circulation pump doesn’t turn on by itself, however when hitting panel for another pump the circulation pump will run. I have verified that pumps are plugged into the right locations and they are all in correct spots. I replaced the heater about 45 days ago, and its been running and heating fine up until this past weekend when I had the low flow pop up, this has me stumped.

I have a barefoot tub 2017. Just went out of warranty. It has 3 two speed 240v pumps. First issue about 4 weeks ago. Control panel was operating normally, but none of the jets would operate. I could hear them click and control panel would indicate operation but none of them would run. No air locks, local tech told me over phone that he believed my board was bad. So I replaced my entire balboa pack ( board and heater/ top controller) new board set up like old one . This one runs my pumps but only on low speed and I get constant DRY errors stating that heater is dry. Looking at board I have set switched according to no constant pump. My pumps are connected to run in game position as they did with previous board. Hot tub won’t heat due to constantly being in low flow mode. Pumps do operate on low speed or filter process just fine. Won’t go to high speed and c won’t heat?

I have a hot springs prodigy 2005 model. When you press the jet button the emblem comes up on the control panel showing it’s on. There is no sound coming from the motor and the jets aren’t working. I’ve replaced the start capacitor and had the motor tested, all of that checks out good. Could it be a relay?

There are generally two "hard resets" in hot tubs, the GFCI, and the high limit reset. The GFCI pops if there is any type of electrical short (such as water getting into the heating element, the reset on that can be in one of three places. 1-at the circuit breaker, 2-at the plug outlet or on the end of the cord (110 volt models, or 3- on the pack located near the heater chamber.

The high limit pops if the water in the heater chamber gets to hot, this interrupts the heating circuit. Generally speaking, it"s a small red button that is also located on the control pack, if it is out (stiff), then it is popped. There are many different brands, about 95% are this way.

The Sagaris FH spa hot tub features seating for 3 adults (with lounge), 20 two-tone plastic jets, two-tone air controls, multi-color LED light and thermal cover.

To Locate your Master Spas Serial Number: On the lower part of your hot tub skirt is a metal tag which will display your serial number. Older hot tubs serial numbers are sometimes unreadable on this tag due to weather, if this is the case remove and check the back of your tag.

In your filter well (under your filter lid) is a sticker that has a serial number. Older hot tubs serial numbers are sometimes unreadable from the hot tub water.

Remove the front panel of your Master Spa. On top of the large metal or plastic control pack, there will be a sticker with the serial number printed on it.

Your hot tub type could be either a name or a number. If you have no record of this information, contact the factory at 1-800-860-7727 with your serial number (Legend Series, Exeter, 6.1, 7.2, etc.).

The touchscreen control panel is featured on the following Master Spas products Twilight Series Hot Tubs, Michael Phelps Legend Series Hot Tubs, Michael Phelps Signature Swim Spas and most H2X Swim Spas. Although the size and shape of these panels may look different they all operate the same.

Let"s step back into general overview and operation of this control system. First let"s focus on the temperature control your hot tub or swim spa is factory preset at 100 degrees, but if you want to increase the temperature just press the up arrow if you want to decrease the temperature just press the down arrow. As you change the temperature setting you"ll see it blinking as it shows you your set temperature. After it stops blinking it will go back to the actual water temperature. There you"ll see the thermometer icon. This icon comes to life when the heater is turned on you"ll also notice we have our temperature displayed in Fahrenheit if you want to change the unit of temperature just go to the Settings iconand then to the Unit icon where you can easily make the adjustment. You get back to the home screen by hitting the back arrow.

Next there may be an O3 shown this shows when the ozonator is functioning on your hot tub or swim spa. This is a standard feature on every unit with a touchscreen control panel. For spas with a circulation pump the ozonator runs whenever the circulation pump is running but it does disable for one hour when any pump function is manually enabled. For spas using a therapy pump for heating and filtering the ozonator will run during the preset filtration times, unless a therapy pump has been turned on as mentioned.

The C stands for a clean up cycle the lock indicator is shown when either the control panel has been locked to prevent unwanted use or if you don"t want the settings to be changed we go into more detail about these icons and how to make adjustments in a separate settings video.

The two arrows wrapping around means you can invert your screenview. This makes it easier to read the screen whether on the inside or outsid eof your hot tub or swim spa.

The music icon is present when you have the optional sound system installed on your hot tub or swim spa. You would access the music screen by pressing this icon.

This icon allows access to control the pumps on your hot tub or swim spa. You can see this screen shows jets one, jets two, and circulation pump. We"re actually demonstrating this on a TS 7.2 that has two therapy pumps in the optional quiet flow circulation pump. You may have a jet one if your spa has only one pump or you may have up to jets three if there are three therapy pumps on your spa. You can turn each of the therapy pumps on/off or adjust the speed just by pressing the appropriate button. Remember some therapy pumps may only be one speed. Although the circulation pump is shown it is designed to be run 24/7 and you can not adjust it on or off from the screen.

Going back to the home screen we can turn the lights on off or change colors just by pressing the light icon. There are several different patterns of lighting available as you turn the lights off and then quickly back on you go through the rotation of colors which includes solid colors, slow changing colors and faster changing colors. So that"s the general overview and operation of your touchscreen control panel. We hope this helped and that you enjoy your Master Spas even more than before.

Am considering Sunrise or OKNA because the thinner frame is more attractive than some, but am concerned that this may present a strength or sagging issue on my south facing, 43×60 double hungs. Any comments you have on 1) strength and durability of modern vinyl and 2) your opinion on whether vinyl expands and contracts enough to put stress on the seal (as some manufacturers would lead you to believe) would be appreciated. Thanks.

I need to caution you. Yes Sunrise makes some great windows and my company has installed them for years. The major difference between Sunrise and their Verde line and the Restorations model is. The Restoration Line is reinforced with fiberglass and has more insulation fill in frame and sashes. Because of the slim line design the non reinforced sashes on the lower lines in larger window can bow and warp.

We have installed scores of Sunrise windows, including Restorations and we have had many, many issues with warping and bowing. Our installers have been in the business for years and do excellent work. We haven’t had issues like this with any other brand. And Sunrise does not offer service on their products or honor their warranty. You are totally screwed if you have issues with their products. You won’t get anywhere with their customer service reps.

I haven’t heard much negative feedback about Sunrise and I know several of the executives over there. Have you contacted anyone further up the food chain to see if they can help out?

We’ve been in touch with Michael Vick over a period of several months. We were even given a delivery date when our distributor was supposed to have our replacements, but that day came and went weeks ago. Our distributor knows nothing. He won’t get back to us and another girl we spoke to at Sunrise won’t get back to us. The customer whose having issues with their windows has spent hundreds of thousands of dollars with our company and we look like idiots because we haven’t been able to solve their problems in a timely manner.

This response is shocking to me and unfortunate as I am a Sunrise dealer and have been for years and there quality is exceptional. If we ever had any issues our rep Ken Hasse has always taken care of the problem no questions asked. We also offer Simonton Windows and we always offer the Sunrise product as the upgraded product line. We have 1000’s of happy customers thanks to the Quality of Sunrise.

Um, sorry, but I’m calling BS on “Katie’s” review. We’ve been using Sunrise for 20 years and have never, ever had an issue with bowing or flexing. Any time we have had an issue with service, they have always honored it. The Restorations even includes glass and screen breakage for life and they’ve never even hassled us for replacement parts, sashes or entire frames. Also, knowing other Sunrise dealers in our very large metro area, they have never made a complaint about Sunrise.

Hi JB, I know the founder of Sunrise and I agree that they seem to be very reputable people. Anything can fail, and it may be a particular dealer she’s having a hard time with. We also know that there are always 2 sides to a complaint like that.

And to update this review for anyone shopping for Restorations, we finally did get replacement sashes from Sunrise after months of back-and-forth with Sunrise representatives. The hold up was on their end, not our dealer. To clear up any confusion, its the Restoration line we have had trouble. The Essential jobs we have done haven’t had any issues.

Unfortunately I agree. Since Sunrise does not install or sell their product to the consumer, if you have any problems, they point the finger to the installer/seller and installer/seller then points the finger at Sunrise and the consumer/purchaser is stuck with problem windows. I regret that I paid good money to have Sunrise windows installed in my home. Not satisfied.

Hi Kris, sorry to hear about your trouble. I do think Sunrise generally makes a perfectly decent product, but the finger pointing between the manufacturer and installer can make solving a problem difficult.

Unfortunately I would echo Katie’s opinion regarding Sunrise warranty support. Our company installed several windows in a large house. When we had issues with the window, I contacted the local rep, he eventually kicked it to the inhouse warranty department. They sent multiple suggestions to remedy the problems, but none worked. After nearly 18 months I told the homeowner to contact a lawyer and take legal action. After the attorney was involved, Sunrise came correct and sent us replacement windows.

Sunrise has been a main window vendor of mine since 1996. I have had very minimal issues, and when I have had issues we never had any resistance on fixing the problem in a timely manner. Alway very responsive from reps in the field.

We had Restorations installed in early 2020. I immediately noticed condensation on the windows. I was told it is because the new windows seal better than the old. They told my I was running the humidifier too high. I bought a couple of hygrometers; the humidity was 39%. We had a bitter cold snap in the spring with strong north winds which caused ice to form on the windows in the bedroom on the north side. I sent photos of the ice to the installer. The installer and Michael Vick both came to the house and they eventually installed new sashes with upgraded glass in the bedroom windows. Winter of 2021, more ice on the bedroom windows. I sent pictures to the installer. They eventually said they were working on a solution and that Sunrise “was being no help”. The installer’s service rep said he could see a small gap on the corners where the sashes meet. Their solution was to install some small pads in the corners between the sashes. Winter of 2022, more ice, more pictures and I even called their office. Haven’t heard anything from them. I solved the problem of excessive condensation on one of the windows by taping plastic sheeting over one of the windows on the outside. The Restorations windows are junk in my opinion. I would have been better off installing old-school aluminum storm windows.

I’m calling BS on Katie also. Been using Sunrise for 18 years and the failure rate is almost non existent. We sell thousands of them each year. We don’t have have issues getting warranty service when needed.

I have absolutely nothing to gain by stating my negative experience with Sunrise, so screw you Kurt Deegan. If this site allowed me to post photos, I have SEVERAL I could post that all have the same defect. I CURRENTLY have another warranty replacement on the way for a Sunrise Restoration. I really don’t care if you lucked out and haven’t had issues. We have had nothing but problems.

I am considering either Polaris Thermalweld, Sunrise restorations, or Soft Lite Imperial LS. 12 Double hungs to replace..Polaris is $5,800, Sunrise and Soft Lite are $8,000 to replace. I know the Sunrise and Softlite seem to be better windows but I am trying to justify spending more if the Thermalweld are comparable. I also would like to get them in a black exterior which will cost more but if concerns with color fading etc is warranted? The Polaris black windows are $1,500 more. Any thoughts?

We got Sunrise Restorations with the Omega12 glass system installed about a month ago. We absolutely love them! I will be interested to see how they perform this winter, but so far we have noticed a big difference in the heat that the windows allow in. The house stays cool much longer now, as you can’t feel heat streaming in through the glass like you could with the old windows.

I know I am responding to a comment that is a few months old. I just finished a three year project of getting Sunrise standard windows in my home. I opted for the Main Core (extra foam fill) and got triple pane units. All of my windows are double hung and horizontal sliders. I love them. The windows I had installed prior to the cold snap of -30F with 30 mph winds made a huge difference. They cut out road noise, do not leak air, are easy to operate, and they look nice.

I been in my house for 28 years – original owner. I started with Norco Wood casement windows – Low-E with Argon that the builder installed (41 windows). Over the years many of their seals failed. I replaced 3 sides of the house windows with WeatherTight (Milwaukee) Restorations casements (Sunrise). These are Triple-glazed Low-e and Krypton gas filled casement windows. When it is 0 or -10 outside the original Norco casement windows have white ice that builds up on the bottom of the windows and up the sides a bit. The Sunrise triple-glazed casements have a little bit of moisture in the bottom corner of the glass – that’s it. I call them my super-windows. Going to replace 13 more of them soon. I have 2×6 wall construction and keep my house dry in winter – vented bathroom (shower) and vented kitchen stove.

I’m very glad to hear you love your Sunrise Windows with the Omega 12 glass system. I’m opting for the UltraPlus2 because I live in Maryland. What part of the country do you live in?

I’ve read the Sunrise Essentials is for the budget concerned consumer. What are the differences between the Essentials and the higher end Sunrise offerings for a window construction/duribility perspective?

My husband and I are currently meeting with installers (following your sage advice and finding a good installer first) but the one we like best so far offers Sunrise Vanguard and Revere Berkshire Elite. The price is great and both seem like great options. Is there any real advantage of one over the other?

Lots of people are ordering online these days so that’s pretty common. Sounds like the Sunrise option was giving you the runaround so I’d probably skip that. They make fine windows, but I wouldn’t deal with the companies that try to pull the today only pricing. It’s not worth the headache.

We are looking at replacement vinyl windows. We have narrowed our choices to Sunrise with the ultra-u plus glass system or Lindsay with the 366 LOE glass package. We are looking at casements. Any recommendations?

We got the Sunrise Essentials a few months ago and the quality is simply outstanding. The narrow frame and the not overly detailed exterior are perfect. And tight they are!

Sunrise Essentials are not available in foam filled frames. The Sunrise window has insulation in one part of the frame and the Verde, Vangaurd, and Restor