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One of the biggest enemies of electronic devices is moisture. Unfortunately, given the ever-increasing portability and popularity of smartphones, music players, cameras and tablet PCs, it seems all but certain that each of your vital tech tools will one day have a devastating encounter with H2O.

But all may not be lost even after your cell phone takes that free-fall into the toilet, or your iPod goes through the washing machine in the back pocket of your favorite jeans. There’s a chance — about 70 percent — that you’ll be able to completely dry the device and put it back to work within hours. In most cases, it won’t be quick, and you’ll have to be willing to make a bit of a mess. But you could save yourself a trip to the electronics store for a replacement.

Although drying procedures for smartphones, music players, cameras and tablet PCs vary in certain ways, for the most part you would follow the same process for any of them upon major contact with water or other liquid:

Remove the battery.As the power source, this is more likely to be damaged by water than the actual device, especially if the item was on when contact was made with the water.

Remove the memory and SIM cards if possible.Because in many cases your data is stored on these instead of the actual computer or phone, you’ll probably want to protect them as much as possible. Fortunately, they’re fairly durable, so you’ll be able to dry them initially with a cloth towel, then let them air dry for a day before reinserting.

Remove any covers and external connectors. This will open up as many gaps, slots and crevices as possible for drying, and help ensure that no moisture is trapped inside the device.

Remove any peripherals and set them aside to air-dry. This is especially true for very small devices as there’s not a lot you can do beyond this. Headphones, in particular, are tiny, but extremely water resistant, even capable of surviving multiple trips through a washing machine and dryer.

Look for signs of water damage. In the case of phones, manufacturers have placed a liquid damage indicator on the inside near where the battery sits. It’s normally a clear or striped pattern; if it’s a solid color (usually red or pink), you may have water damage.

Pat-dry the outside. Use a soft cloth towel to dry off the exterior of the unit. Do not use the towel on any lenses or screens as this can scratch them if dirt or sand particles are in the towel fibers. Instead, use a lens or microfiber cloth for these items.

Use a vacuum cleaner or hand vac if possible.This will draw residual moisture away from the circuitry. But don’t hold the vacuum too close or you’ll risk generating static electricity that could damage the device.

Try a can of compressed air. Carefully spray with the can straight up to release only air, not the freezing liquid. Aim it at the keys, crevices, microphone, speaker and any other openings to force excess liquid out.

Do a “dry soak.”Use a product with a high affinity for absorbing moisture, such as uncooked rice or silica gel (the little packets that are found in new electronic devices and shoe boxes after purchase, usually labeled “Do not eat”). Cover the device with the product for at least 12 hours, turning the product over every 1 or 2 hours, or as often as possible. Note that larger items, such as cameras, could take up to a week to dry.

Use “gentle heat.”You can speed up the drying process by putting the device in a location that gets a moderate amount of heat, such as near a television or the dashboard of your car. Do not place the battery on a warm device. Do not use high or direct heat such as from a hair dryer or in the oven as this will damage the unit (especially the LCD screen).

Leave the item in a well-ventilated area to dry.Speed up the process with use of a small fan if desired. Let the item air dry for at least a day or two.

Do the “towel test.”After half a day or more (depending on the drying technique used), place the item on absorbent towels, napkins or other paper. In 4 to 6 hours, check for signs of moisture seeping from the unit. If moisture is evident, repeat the vacuum and dry soak efforts.

Reinsert the battery and turn the unit on. If it works, you’re back in business. If it does not work, take the battery out, plug in your charging cable and turn it on. If it now works, you may need a new battery. If it still does not work, you’ll need to replace the device, or have it examined by a tech specialist.

To check battery damage, try cleaning the battery connections with a cloth dampened with a light rubbing alcohol solution. Wait several hours for it to completely dry before reinserting the battery and trying again to turn the unit on. Do not turn the unit on if you still smell rubbing alcohol.

You may notice discolored areas on the LCD screen to your camera or smartphone. If you’re lucky, it’s an indicator that there’s still some water in the unit. The device is safe to use at this point, however. If the screen does not return to normal within a couple days of use, you have permanent damage.

If the unit powers up but isn’t acting 100 percent normal, odds are there is still some water inside the unit. The device should not be used. Resume drying activities as noted earlier or perform the following::

A last-ditch effort is to take the unit apart. This is only recommended for basic cell phones, and only if you are 100 percent comfortable with disassembling the device. Note that opening the unit up invalidates any warranty that may exist. Keep careful track of where all the pieces go as you disassemble. Pat-dry each piece with a soft cloth, then reassemble and try again.

It never hurts to prepare for the worst, especially when it comes to protecting your electronics against unexpected moisture. There are several ways to waterproof your technology “just in case:”

Buy a waterproof case or bag. This sounds obvious, yet many people forget that the carrier their phone or laptop came in may not be designed for submersion. Cases tend to come in three categories: standard, rugged and heavy-duty. Keep an eye on the submersion factor, a gauge of how many feet underwater the case will stay waterproof for at least 10 minutes. Standard items tend to survive only a few feet; heavy duty can tolerate 100 feet or more.

Opt for a waterproof product. If you haven’t bought your electronic device yet, carefully consider this option. Cameras, in particular, offer a lot of choice in this department. Expect, however, to pay 10 percent to 20 percent more for the water-resistant of the device.

Use zippered plastic storage bags.This truly low-tech option keeps your device safe from water and other environmental hazards such as sand, dirt or dust while still giving you full use of the keys. Not a great option for larger units such as tablets or laptops as they don’t make bags big enough. The idea is to keep the phone or music player in the bag until you need it, but you can operate the device from within if need be. In this case, forget about using external mics or headphones and prepare for a lot of background noise as the bag shifts while you talk on the phone. Even without the background noise, sound quality through the bag will still be marginal.

Go for custom-fit bags. For a slightly improved experience, try a product that is designed to snugly fit your phone and allow you to keep it in the bag while talking.The same restriction applies to the use of headphones and other externals, but at least your audio will be more efficient.

Vacuum seal your device.A step up from mere zippered bags are products that offer special-fit, airtight bags designed specifically for iPod, iPhone, iPad, Android, Kindle and similar products. These items leave the headset/headphone jack available for easy access, and are reportedly waterproof in many cases for at least 10 feet under water, but can cost $60 or more, which can seem pricey compared to a $2 plastic bag.

Put on an “invisible shield.” You may have seen these products in kiosks at shopping malls as well as on television: a plastic, custom-fit cover that is glued to your phone, laptop, camera, e-reader or other device. Designed primarily to resist scratching, it does offer some protection against moisture such as raindrops or sweat. But it won’t be as effective if your camera ends up in a water fountain, for example.

Waterproof the device. If you decide after purchase that having a waterproof item is a good thing, you can manually safeguard against moisture with paint-on nano-coating products that claim to be undetectable once applied and offer protection for the life of the device.

On top of call difficulties, a broken speaker can also cause problems when watching videos or listening to podcasts. First, carefully check your phone to determine if there is any external damage. If nothing is visible, make sure the latest software update is installed on your device. In addition, try some basic troubleshooting by turning your phone on and off while leaving it unplugged.

If you’re covered by one of the Verizon device protection plans such as Verizon Protect or Total Mobile Protection, you can always reach out to Tech Coach. This personalized support service connects you with live, US-Based tech experts who can walk you through next steps on repairs. If you don’t have either plan, the app is also available for purchase separately for $9 per month. For New York residents, Tech Coach is available for $4 or $5 per month depending on the type of device.

Once a phone has water damage — from small spills to a full liquid plunge — there’s often no easy fix. The first step should be to check if your smartphone’s Liquid Contact Indicator has been activated. Most models, including Apple, LG and Samsung, have small visible indicators to show whether water damage has occurred. Consider peace of mind for those inevitable accidents with Verizon’s Verizon Protect or  Total Mobile Protection. Not only is your phone covered if it gets water damage, you may be eligible for a full replacement that same day.

From the rays in a hot car to a sunny day spent at the beach, high temps and direct sunlight can cause serious and lasting damage to a smartphone. Extreme heat can damage a smartphone’s internal components and result in slower speeds or even loss of data. And often the damage is not visible from the outside.

Before you panic, get your phone back to room temperature and exit all apps. Look over the exterior of the phone to see if the battery, which is especially sensitive to extreme heat, has leaked. And in all future situations, make sure to follow manufacturer recommendations. For example, Apple recommends not using a smartphone in temperatures above 95 degrees Fahrenheit.

Responsible for performing installations and repairs (motors, starters, fuses, electrical power to machine etc.) for industrial equipment and machines in order to support the achievement of Nelson-Miller’s business goals and objectives:

• Perform highly diversified duties to install and maintain electrical apparatus on production machines and any other facility equipment (Screen Print, Punch Press, Steel Rule Die, Automated Machines, Turret, Laser Cutting Machines, etc.).

• Provide electrical emergency/unscheduled diagnostics, repairs of production equipment during production and performs scheduled electrical maintenance repairs of production equipment during machine service.

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Use a non abrasive cleaning solution, diluting isopropyl alcohol (not rubbing alcohol, as it may contain oil) into a solution of 50% alcohol and 50% with distilled water water (or purified/bottled water). You could also buy a cleaning solution that does not contain bleach, ammonia, or vinegar.

Before you start, power-off and unplug your monitor. Spray the cleaning solution on a soft cloth (for example an old T-shirt), lint-free microfiber cloth, or some other very soft cloth. A large cloth is best, since it will help reducing the risk of leaving streaks across the display from finger pressure.

Starting from the top, wipe the screen in one direction until you have cleaned the entire screen. Apply light, but distributed pressure. Repeat if necessary. Let it air dry.

LCD Displays are interfaces of human and machine. They expose to various environments, especially now that COVID-19 spreading around the world. So it"s impossible to keep a screen clean all the time. When you are going to clean an LCD display，do you have the right steps in mind？Maybe what you"ve been doing is not right！

LCD screens could have different top layers. For example, there are glass, plastic, coating, or protective bezels. Each one of them is different. Therefore, each type of screen should not be cleaned in only one way. In fact, the most appropriate way is written in product manual. Take Topway HMT070ETD-1D, a 7 inch Smart TFT LCD Display with capacitive touch screen, as an example. Cleaning precautions are as follow: Only clean LCD with a soft dry cloth. Isopropyl Alcohol or Ethyl Alcohol. Other solutions(e. g. water) may damage the LCD.

LCD screens are fragile. Before cleaning an LCD display, you should turn it off completely, disconnect it from power supply,  and let it cool down for a few minutes. This will eliminate danger of electrocution and make it easier to see dust on screen.

Don’t press down hard while cleaning, because that action may damage top layers or coating. Spray a little cleaning solution, such as isopropyl alcohol diluted with either pure or distilled water, onto a microfiber cloth and gently wipe the display in either an up and down or side to side motion. Too much pressure can compromise limited durability of even the most rugged LCD screens.

There are a few types of cloth can be used. Microfiber is recommended. It is lightweight and soft, seldom produces loose fiber. Because of an intricate way in which minuscule fibers are intertwined, microfiber is able to remove large amounts of dirt and dust without leaving streaks or lint. You can also use a cotton cloth if you don’t have a microfiber one on hand.

It is dangerous that an LCD display directly contacts with any liquids (especially when they’re still plugged in). A safer and smarter approach is to first wipe the screen with a dry cloth, then spray a small amount of cleaning solution onto another cloth and wipe gently. After that, wipe with another clean, dry cloth to remove the residual liquid.

Never use ammonia or rubbing alcohol based cleaners on LCD screens. They will damage the extremely delicate coating on top of screens, and negatively alter viewing experience, especially in strong sunlight.

Dust in gaps where bezels and top layers meet can cause internal damage to LCD displays. Regularly using a vacuum with a soft-bristled brush (to prevent scratching) can be helpful.

Now you know how to clean an LCD screen safely and correctly, if you find it helpful, please share this article with your friends. If there are more questions about LCD displays, please feel free to leave us a message.

Secondly, the first thing the person who was "fixing" it, should have cleaned the phone out using a ultrasonic cleaner, if he used just a toothbrush, then he is an amateur, as it is no where near effective to clean out corrosion that would have settled in.

If he is just soldering, as he says he is, then he has no clue, he didn"t mention what chip he was replacing, therefore it is probably a lie, and in order to replace some of the chips on an iPhone, you need a fair bit of experience in micro soldering, as some of the chips are extremely tiny!

Accidental Damage is any damage due to an unintentional act that is not the direct result of a manufacturing defect or failure. Accidental damage is not covered under the standard warranty of the product. Such damage is often the result of a drop or an impact on the LCD screen or any other part of the product which may render the device non-functional. Such types of damage are only covered under an Accidental Damage service offering which is an optional add-on to the basic warranty of the product. Accidental Damage must not be confused with an occasional dead or stuck pixel on the LCD panel. For more information about dead or stuck pixels, see the Dell Display Pixel Guidelines.

No, accidental damage is covered for Dell computers or monitors which are covered under the Accidental Damage Service offering for that specific product.

For more information about Dell Limited Hardware Warranty and Dell"s Accidental Damage service offering, see the Dell Warranty & Support Services page.

NOTE: Other damages may be considered customer induced if determined by Dell Technical Support, an on-site field engineer, or at the mail-in repair center.

The LCD glass on the display is manufactured to rigorous specifications and standards and will not typically crack or break on its own under normal use. In general, cracked, or broken glass is considered accidental damage and is not covered under the standard warranty.

Internal cracks typically occur due to excessive force on the screen. This can be the result of some object hitting the screen, a drop, attempting to close the lid while an object is on the keypad area, or even holding the laptop by its screen.

Spots typically occur due to an external force hitting the screen causing damage to the LCD panel"s backlight assembly. While the top layer did not crack or break, the underlying area was compressed and damaged causing this effect.

If your Dell laptop LCD panel has any accidental damage but the laptop is not covered by the Accidental Damage service offering, contact Dell Technical Support for repair options.

Dell monitors cannot be repaired by an on-site field engineer or at the mail-in repair center. If you notice any damage to the monitor, you must purchase a new monitor.

Laptop users can strive to make the most of their laptops to maximize stability, longevity, and usability. Understanding and implementing a few best practices for the safe handling of their laptop will enable them to enjoy their laptop for many years to come. For more information, see the Dell knowledge base article Dell Laptop Best Practices for Care, Use, and Handling.

We"ve all had that moment: You"re sitting at your computer or laptop and the light hits your screen in a way to reveal an unsightly accumulation of streaks, fingerprints, and dust.

To help, we round up the most important things to know about cleaning your computer screen, whether it"s a Mac or PC. While it"s a simple process, there are a few important rules to keep in mind to make sure you"re doing it safely.

Computer screens are not all made the same, and thus can"t all be cleaned the same way. You"ll want to be careful no matter your screen type, but it"s helpful to know that displays come in two categories:Glass-coated screens: The screens on newer iMac displays and MacBooks have a glass overlay. Glass displays are a little less delicate than LCD or LED screens, and mild cleaning solutions, like rubbing alcohol, are generally safe to use on them.

LCD or LED screens:Windows computers and most touchscreens and matte displays are typically not coated in glass. Extra care should be taken with these screens so not to damage the pixels that make up the display.

Since there are so many computers, laptops, and monitors out there, each with their own set of variables and specificities, it"s smart to just simply err on the side of caution.

To clean a computer screen, you really just need two things: A microfiber cloth and filtered or distilled water. That"s to say you don"t need a special store-bought cleaning solution.

If you"d like some extra sanitation power, an equal parts mixture of water and vinegar is safe no matter your screen type. If you know that your display is glass-coated, you can also use an equal parts mixture of water and 70% rubbing alcohol.What you needTwo lint-free microfiber cloths

d3sign/Getty ImagesTurn the computer or laptop off.For safety reasons, begin by letting the device cool down completely. Dust, fingerprints, and smudges are also easier to spot on a black screen.

Wipe off dust with a dry cloth. Use a dry, lint-free microfiber cloth to gently wipe away any visible dust and dirt. If necessary, apply gentle pressure to remove surface-level smudges.

If any marks remain, wipe with a lightly moistened cloth.For glass-coated screens, you can use a mixture of equal parts water and vinegar or rubbing alcohol. For LED or LCD screens, use only water. Spray or lightly dab the solution directly onto the cloth and carefully wipe the screen from left to right.

Buff with a dry cloth and air-dry.If any streaks remain once the screen dries, gently buff them with the dry cloth. Before you turn your computer or laptop back on, allow the screen to dry completely.Note:Apple claims that you can use 70% isopropyl disinfecting wipes to clean any Apple product. Just remember not to get any liquid into the device"s ports or openings — to avoid this, you might want to wring out the wipe to remove any excess liquid before using it.

For the best advice for cleaning your screen, it"s a smart idea to check your owner"s manual, which provides the manufacturer"s specific recommendations. But since screens are especially susceptible to damage, there are a few general guidelines that apply, no matter the type of screen you own.

Turn off your computer before cleaning the screen. This is just safe practice where any amount of liquid is involved, but more specifically, any static on the screen could create a shock and damage the internal components.

Do not use abrasive cleaning solutions. This includes bleach (or any products containing bleach), hydrogen peroxide, or all-purpose spray cleaners. Using an abrasive cleaner can ruin the finish of your screen.

Use filtered or distilled water. Especially in areas with hard water, water containing minerals like calcium and magnesium can damage your screen or leave even more streaks.

Use only soft microfiber cloths.Even a fabric as soft as a cotton shirt has snags and uneven particles that can scratch a computer screen. For this reason, avoid T-shirts, towels, and paper towels. The exception is the Apple Pro Display XDR or iMac, which requires a special polishing cloth.

Never spray cleaning solution directly onto the screen. To avoid any risk of damage from excess moisture, mist the solution directly onto the microfiber cloth instead.

Do not wipe in circles. Wiping in circles can create uneven pressure and ultimately lead to screen damage. It"s also more likely to create streaking. Wipe in tight, Z-shaped motions, or in broad strokes from side to side.

Do not scrub.Apply gentle pressure only. Hard scrubbing can damage the internal components of the screen and could leave scratches or spots of discoloration or dead pixels that won"t go away.Melanie Weir

Melanie Weir is a freelance author for Insider, mainly focusing on the Tech Reference section, but occasionally contributing to Lifestyle and Entertainment topics as well. She is also a freelance writer for ScreenRant, and is the Lead Weekend News Editor at TheThings.com. In her spare time she writes plays for both stage and screen. She can be reached at melanie.weir1008@gmail.com, or through LinkedIn.

QUESTION: I recently bought an LCD TV. The dealer stressed that the screen was not glass and could easily be damaged by using common glass cleaners, for example those that contain ammonia. From what I’ve read, the damage may not appear immediately, but after regular cleaning with the wrong products it may become cloudy or have some other visible problems. Another issue is the apparent dust-magnet properties of the LCD screen. Some of the commercial products claim to have anti-static properties, and I’d sure like to know what substance they use and how we can be sure it won’t affect the screen. Can you shed some light on this and recommend something to clean the TV screen? Thanks in advance. —Bonnie

Answer: When in doubt, always refer to your manufacturer’s manual first, if you do not have a manual call the company who manufactured the screen and ask them to email you their recommendations. Getting recommendations in writing is always a good idea.

If you would like to make your own homemade cleaner, mix one-part water and one part 90 per cent isopropyl alcohol, wipe with a very soft cloth. Do not use paper towels or anything more abrasive than a cotton T-shirt. Windex or anything that contains ammonia is not recommended as it can etch the screen surface and can cause the plastic to become cloudy. There are commercial cleaning solutions available, but some of them are quite expensive and contain nothing other than isopropyl alcohol and water.

Answer: Soak the pot with dishwasher detergent and hot water for a couple of hours, scrub with a steel wool pad. Or, and this is what I like to do, pour baking soda, dish soap and enough water to cover the bottom. Boil the contents for five minutes. Let sit just until cool enough to handle and scrub with an S.O.S pad. Some people use oven cleaner for this purpose and leave it overnight, but I prefer baking soda.

You can make the best ribs in a slow cooker if you remove them from the slow cooker 30 minutes before serving and place them onto a baking sheet. Broil until browned, this way they are crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. — Karen

To temporarily camouflage tiny nicks or chips in flooring melt a matching crayon. Drip the wax onto the area. Use a plastic scraper or ruler to level off the top so the wax is even with the floor. — Fraser

I have tried all kinds of coffeemakers and am finally satisfied with a good strong cup of coffee made with a French press/Bodem. Put coffee (I use President’s Choice dark roast) into the French press, pour in water that has just been boiled. Let sit for a few minutes. Press the top down, pour into mug. One cup of this coffee, and I’m fine for the rest of the day. Nothing fancy. — Henry

Note: Every user assumes all risks of injury or damage resulting from the implementation of any suggestions in this column. Test all products on an inconspicuous area first.

Have a great suggestion or tip? Please send an email at: info@reena.ca. Reena Nerbas is a popular motivational presenter for large and small groups; check out her website: reena.ca.

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The V-LCD651STX-3GSDI offers a durable and lightweight design, weighing in at only 1.3 pounds. It also features our completely digital TFT-MegaPixel high resolution LCD screen with 2.4 million pixels, 4-pin XLR power jack, and optical-grade polycarbonate screen protection. Analog signals are digitized using advanced 10-bit processing with 4x oversampling and adaptive 5-line comb filter.

These units also offer the ability to adapt up to nine different battery configurations for providing mobile operation in the field. This option provides flexibility when using different cameras or configurations. Our large selection of battery adapters can be interchanged (or "swapped" out) by the end-user.

Marshall Electronics offers a full line of Super Transflective Outdoor Monitors, designed specifically for outdoor applications with high ambient light. Our technology minimizes surface reflection of both outdoor and indoor light, while featuring a much wider color reproduction range than typical transflective/reflective LCDs or even those with increased backlight performance.

These outdoor super-transmissive LCDs provide improved visibility by producing high-contrast images and a wider viewing angle, even under diverse and challenging lighting environments! This innovative technology dramatically boosts the efficiency of the LCD backlight"s light utilization, while maintaining extended temperature ratings and low power consumption for outdoor operation.

As the camera Iris is adjusted, elements of the image will change color based on the luminance or brightness values. This enables proper exposure to be achieved without the use of costly, complicated external test equipment.

To best utilize this feature, you must understand the color chart and have a basic understanding of camera exposure. Normally, when shooting subjects like people, it is common practice to set exposure of faces to the equivalent of approximately 56 IRE. The False Color filter will show this area as the color PINK on the monitor. Therefore, as you increase exposure (open the IRIS), your subject will change color as indicated on the chart: PINK, then GREY, then a few shades of YELLOW. Overexposed subjects (above 101 IRE) on the monitor will be shown as RED. In addition, underexposed subjects will show as DEEP-BLUE to DARK-BLUE, with clipped-blacks indicated with a FUCHSIA-like color. Lastly, the color GREEN is used to indicate elements of the image that are approximately 45 IRE. This represents a "neutral" or "mid-level" exposure commonly used for objects (not people).

The Peaking Filter is used to aid the camera operator in obtaining the sharpest possible picture. When activated, all color will be removed from the display and a black-and-white image will remain. The internal processor will display RED color on the screen where sharp edges appear. When the camera operator adjusts (or "racks") the focus control (on the camera lens), different parts of the image will have RED colored edges. This indicates that this portion of the image is sharp or in focus. Final focus is achieved by racking the camera lens focus control back and forth until the desired portion of the image has RED colored edges. Please note that this feature is most effective when the subject is properly exposed and contains enough contrast to be processed.

Camera Horizon Indicator. An optional adapter that allows the user to accurately position their equipment for stable and level shooting. More Info...

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Before you give into your impulses and wipe your screen with whatever you have at hand, let us stop you right there. Your display is way more delicate than you think, and if you want it to last a long time in optimal conditions, you’ll need to treat it with proper love and care.

The good news is that cleaning a computer screen is more simple than you think. You only need a soft cloth, a tiny bit of water, and the most delicate of touches.

As you would expect, not all screens are created equal, and some are more delicate than others. The safest way to figure out the proper care for your screen is to search for the make and model of your device, find out if it has an LCD, LED, or some other type of display, and search for the manufacturer’s instructions on how to care for it.

If you want to skip all that, there’s an easy way to avoid making a mistake that might not only result in irreparable damage to your screen but to your entire device. According to Joe Silverman, owner of New York Computer Help, a tech repair center in New York City, no matter how much money you spent on your computer or tablet, it probably has an LED or an LCD screen if you bought it within the last three years—and neither type benefits from window cleaner or highly concentrated alcohol.

That’s the uppermost layer of your screen, which is extremely sensitive to the acidity in alcohol and in compounds like ammonia or propylene glycol. These are often present in cleaning agents such as window cleaners and degreasers. Using these liquids will corrode the surface of your screen, resulting in scratches or even smudges you won’t be able to get rid of.

“Underneath there it’s the most intelligent part of the laptop,” Silverman explains. “What happens is that the liquid will get through that first line of defense, and when it does that it’s going to really affect the sensors.”

Things get even trickier when you’re dealing with touchscreens. On models like the Microsoft Surface, the display is the main input—as opposed to your mouse or trackpad on a regular laptop—so it’s ultra-sensitive, Silverman says. Using a strong liquid cleaner like a degreaser or a bleach-based disinfectant can obliterate the top layer on the screen. Combine that with high pressure, and you can kiss your fancy touchscreen computer goodbye.

Another downside to newer computers is their size and weight. If you decided to splurge on a new laptop, for example, you probably found one that has top-notch components, but also a slick, lightweight design. This format is only possible if everything in your laptop is smaller and thinner. In the case of your display, a thinner screen means a weaker barrier between your computer’s guts and the elements in the outside world.

Caring for your screen is simple—it only takes a little bit of water and a dust-free cloth, such as a microfiber wipe or the piece of fabric that came with your glasses.

First, turn off your computer and disconnect the charger. This might sound paranoid, but the benefit is twofold—you avoid any chance of triggering an electrical surge, and your screen will remain black, which will make it easier to see any dirt and grime.

Pour a couple drops of water on your cloth. Forget paper towels or the sleeve of that soft cotton t-shirt you love—microfiber is your best bet. Still, no matter how soft it is, a dry wipe could always leave micro-abrasions on your screen. The moisture will also help gather dust and particles while lifting grease from your display.

Use circular motions starting in the center of your screen and moving outward, so you don’t leave any streaks. If you can see any droplets or water traces on the glass while you clean, you’ve used way too much water. Gently dab the residual H2O with an absorbent cloth or tissue paper and start again.

If you’re dealing with next-level gunk, you can use isopropyl alcohol at 70 percent or lower, Silverman says. “That percentage is very important,” he explains. “We’d only use 90 percent or higher on dummy parts that don’t have sensors, like top cases and keyboards.” In these extreme cases, spray the alcohol on the cloth, never directly on the screen, and wipe it gently.

Just like solar damage, screen damage is cumulative. The more pressure you apply, the more abrasive a product you use, and the more often you use it, the greater the damage you’re inflicting on the protective layer of your display and the delicate sensors underneath it.

Maybe you can get away with using a high percentage of alcohol or even a window cleaner on your computer screen once or twice. But if you keep at it, eventually you’ll see the deleterious effects.

“You’ll see discoloration, lines (vertical and horizontal); sometimes it looks pretty and rainbow-like,” Silverman says. “Sometimes it’ll blink and sometimes you’ll see droplets of water or liquid in the back of the screen. There’s a lot of ways in which damage appears.”

The best way to avoid damaging your screen while cleaning it is to simply keep it from getting dirty in the first place. If you have a laptop, cover the keyboard with a thin microfiber cloth before closing it to prevent finger grease from transferring to the screen. If you have a touchscreen, wash your hands often before you use it, but make sure you let your hands dry completely before you start tapping—the soapy water or liquid hand cleanser from your fingers can easily end up on the screen and corrode it.

Wet, newly washed hands can also be detrimental to regular computers. Silverman says he often sees such victims in his shop—computers completely dead after hand sanitizer rubbed off the owner’s hands, seeped through the keyboard, and ruined the inner guts of the machine.

Your phone was designed to be carried, dropped, tapped, swiped, smashed against your face for long periods of time, and stowed in the deepest corners of your bag. In other words, its screen is way more resilient than your computer’s.

Silverman explains that most iPhones and Samsung phones, for example, have screens made out of one thick piece of glass. These, as opposed to computer screens, have all the LCD layers fused together, making them much more difficult to damage. Still, if you’re using alcohol, he recommends keeping the concentration at 70 percent or lower, using a soft cloth, and applying only low pressure to get rid of any accumulated gunk there.

Be especially careful with charging ports, as contact with water (also present in rubbing alcohol) can damage the electronics inside your smartphone. Newer models often are resistant to liquids, but there’s always a threshold to how much they can withstand. And you probably don’t want to know what that is.

Replacing the screen of your computer or smartphone can be expensive, and even if that’s not an issue for you, no one wants their devices to fail when they need them the most. So remember these tips well—we hope you never have to read this article again.