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Now, the SparkMaker Full HD is providing more options for do-it-yourselfers who use 3D printing. The SparkMaker is an upgraded 3D printer with a 1080p LCD screen and four new types of resins.

Individuals with the first generation of Sparkmaker can upgrade with a kit that includes a metal tank, metal panel, 1080p LCD screen and UV backlight.

The Resin LCD-G offers ultra-clear resin for making 3D engraving prints that show internal details. This also ensures the object doesn’t turn yellow over time.

Most 3D printers today use the FFF (Fused Filament Fabrication) process, which is also sometimes referred to by the proprietary FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) name. Those printers work by melting thermoplastic filament, and then extruding the plastic onto the build plate in layers. That process is quick, affordable, and produces relatively strong parts. But the SLA (Stereolithography) printing process generally yields higher quality results. SLA 3D printers used to be expensive, butthe SparkMaker Original is very affordable, and I recently tested one out.

The SparkMaker Original launched on Kickstarter back in 2017, and it’s still one of the most inexpensive SLA3D printerson the market. The SLA printing process works using photopolymer resin that hardens when it’s exposed to UV light. That light can come from lasers or from LEDs that are masked by an LCD screen. The latter method is cheaper, and is what the SparkMaker Original utilizes. The XY resolution is determined by the resolution of that LCD screen — 720p in this case.

On paper, the SparkMaker Original has some respectable specifications: a 98*55*125mm build volume, a 0.1mm XY resolution, a 0.02mm Z layer thickness, and a single layer print time of 8–15 seconds. There are a variety of resin types available depending on your intended applications, and the printer is very compact and desktop-friendly. But to find out if it’s actually any good, I had to test it out for myself.

The first thing I noticed is how small the SparkMaker Original is — the entire machine is roughly the size of a gallon jug. It came packaged securely in styrofoam with everything I needed to get started, including a bottle of standard LCD-BW resin. Best of all, no assembly was required. The only thing that needs to be done before printing is to level the build plate, which is a process that takes less than a minute.

After the build plate is leveled, you can use the free SparkStudio software to slicean STL 3D modeland copy it over to the included SD card. The software is very simple, and comes pre-configured for the SparkMaker Original and a handful of their resin types. The only downside is that you can only have one printable file on the SD card at any given time, as ithasto be called “print.wow” to work.

Once your model is sliced and on the SD card, you can insert it back into the 3D printer. Then follow the proper safety precautions to fill the reservoir with resin — it’s toxic, so be very careful and wear gloves and safety glasses. Strangely, the power switch is on the cord coming from the power supply, and there is no switch on the machine itself. Once it’s on, you just push the dial in to start the print. There is no screen, no way to select specific files, and no way to connect the printer to you computer.

For one last test, I printed the sphere below. This one was printed on “fast” settings. This turned out well, likely because there were no fine details. This model is ideal for the smooth surfaces that the SparkMaker Original seems to want to produce.

But what if quality is less important to you than reliability? Unfortunately, that doesn’t seem to be a strong point here either. Every other print job I tried completely failed. That was because the LCD window would become covered in a layer of semi-cured resin. In order to get a successful print, I had to completely empty the reservoir and then carefully peel off that layer of resin. That’s a tricky job considering the toxicity of the resin.

Finally, I have some nitpicks about the mechanical design of the machine. The most glaring is that the top of the build plate is completely flat, so resin will pool there. Virtually every other SLA printer has the top of the build plate sloped to avoid that, but it seems SparkMaker was cutting costs here. The protective UV-resistant cover also doesn’t have anything to hold it in place, so a bump can push it into the build plate.

At the end of the day, I can’t recommend the SparkMaker Original with a good conscience. It’s very affordable at just $249 (even less with a coupon), but there are other models on the market at comparable price points with better specifications, additional features, and more favorable reviews.

The SparkMaker began life as a $99 Kickstarter, which I was understandably skeptical of. Not only was that a ludicrously cheap price for a 3D printer, it was absolutely preposterous for an SLA 3D printer – which was previously the domain of much more expensive industrial printers. It"s now in production, shipping to backers, and available for just shy of $300 from OGadget for everyone else – but is it worth it?

An SLA (or StereoLithography Apparatus) printer uses photosensitive resin as the raw material (a liquid), which solidifies when exposed to UV light. This can come either from a moving UV laser, or in the case of the SparkMaker, UV LEDs and an LCD screen to mask off each layer. As the print solidifies, it"s pulled out of the resin tank.

The SparkMaker has a total build area of around 4 x 2.2 x 5 inches (102 x 56 x 125 mm). The unit itself measures just under 11 inches (275 mm) tall with a diameter of 6.5 inches (165 mm). It"s compact, and looks quite neat on your desktop. Everything is enclosed in the large translucent red cover, though this isn"t fixed in any way, it just sits on the base.

Also in terms of safety (yep, there"s more) – don"t power on at the plug socket until you"ve inserted the DC power jack into the unit, or you"ll get literally sparks. That"s right, the SparkMaker makes sparks when it"s plugged in. You couldn"t make this up if you tried.

Using the SparkMaker is (frustratingly) simple. The only method of getting a print onto the device is through the included SD card. It can only hold a single print at a time, so you"ll need to head back to a PC to transfer another file over. There is no USB connection or Ethernet port, and it can"t be interfaced with Octoprint. When you"re ready to print, fill the resin vat with your choice of resin, to approximately 1/4 inch (6mm) deep, put the cover on, and press the single button. The print bed will be lowered into the vat, and begin printing. Cleanup and post-processing is lot more effort, though.

If you want to slice your own models, you"ll need to download the Windows-only (at the time of writing, though a Mac OS version is promised) custom software, called SparkStudio. This includes settings specific to the printer and type of resins, and will output a "print.wow" file. The files are around 50-100MB in my experience, which is larger than your typical G-code file. G-Code files for FDM printers are really just text commands that describe movements of the print head. I suspect the SLA files are larger because they contain thousands of "images" for what must be displayed on the LCD screen and cured on each layer, effectively a little video file.

SparkMaker offers a range of resins at around $50-80 for 500g. The cost per gram is significantly higher than plastic filaments (at least five times as much), though the objects you print will be smaller. As mentioned, you"ll need 99% Isopropyl Alcohol to clean the prints and resin vat after each print. However, SparkMaker have produced an alternative resin (LCD-W), which can be cleaned up with just water. This is a great option that avoids noxious smells and makes the whole experience a bit safer and cleaner. The prints made of LCD-W tend to be quite brittle, however, so it isn"t quite the ideal solution. The resins are clear, but can be tinted with special color mixes.

Sadly, after extensive testing with both LCD-W and LCD-E ("Elastic") resin, using either the pre-sliced models that SparkMaker offer or custom sliced using their software, we were unable to get a fully successful print out of the device. This is as far as we got with a Hero Forge sample mini – you can see the supports failed much earlier, so the rest of the model didn"t really have a chance:

Unfortunately, I just can"t recommend the SparkMaker – not at the moment anyway. The closed Facebook group is full of posts from people experiencing similar frustrations. Those that have had success appear to be both replacing the FEP film out of the box, and doing a modification to bring the LCD screen closer to the bed. The latest announcement indicates that SparkMaker have made some hardware improvements for pre-orders that haven"t yet shipping, so that"s a good sign the issues have been identified. If you order now, you may not face the same problems. However, we can obviously only report on our experience.

In a break to the norm, we won"t be running a giveaway for the SparkMaker: you"d spend more on consumables and accessories than you"d get out of it. I"ll be following the modding process, replacing the FEP sheet, keeping an eye on software updates, and trying again. If results improve, I"ll update this review accordingly.

Like with other resin printing technologies, LCD machines rely on light-activated resins to build 3D objects. They direct the UV light into areas layer by layer to solidify them. The key difference between DUP or LCD-based machines is in the light source they use. As its name states, the main component is an LCD screen, which is used under a resin tank to project patterns onto the material. Using this tool in a 3D printer commonly allows reducing the costs of such a commonly expensive technology as resin curing.

Alternatively, some DUP printers use LEDs as a source of light. They direct it through a screen or a mask, which darkens areas that don’t need to be solidified.

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SparkMakerSLA 3D Printer is a DLP Resin Printer with an affordable price for those looking to get into high resolution Resin printing. Whether it be to step up to a higher resolution from FDM printers, or to be able to print more intricate prints the SparkMakeris a good entry level printer to get your foot in the door of 3d Printing with Resin and see if you like the process and outcome.

DLP Printers differentiate from say Laser Based SLA printers by instead of focusing the Light to specific areas the Printer instead uses a LCD screen to mask a UV light and only allow certain shapes to be printed per layer, its almost like the screening process of shirt making except your changing the screen every few seconds.

The SparkMakerseems very simple, a single stepper motor, an ACME rod, a UV LED, and LCD screen makes up the majority of the device. that simple design should eliminate troubleshooting when issues arise. The printer is smaller than I visualized in my head, i was surprised at how small and compact it is, especially compared to the footprint of the 200mm and 300mm FDM printers im using currently printing on. This limits the print area to 98mm x 55mm x 125mm which I will have to get used to, especially after recently getting a 300mm cubed printer. Im hesitant to immediatly jump into printing from all the precautions ive been seeing with the toxicity of the resins and the mess of cleanup and post processing the prints, so i want to get all the items in place like the alcohol and buckets and curing station setup before i really dive into this. but im really excited to get some small detailed prints out of this printer that my FDM printer just cant touch that kind of resolutions.

The new printer works with four new types of resins. With the full high definition LCD screen, SparkMaker FHD allows you to print larger sizes (up to 61.8 x 110 x 125 mm), in higher quality (57 μm XY axis resolution), and at a faster speed (up to 25 mm/hr).

Based on the user feedback from previous models, SparkMaker FHD now supports wireless control through Bluetooth connection. Either through an SD card with printing files or the smartphone app by Bluetooth, it is just one button to get printing started.

Type Feature Color Hardness Elongation Description LCD-T Tough Clear 115% ABS Alike Water Water LCD-W Clear 150% Washable Washable LCD-C Casting Clear Casting Platform Handle LCD-E Elastic Clear 300% Rubber Alike LCD-N Nylon Alike Black 115% Nylon Alike Cover LCD-H High HDT Clear >300℃...

The Four Standard Colors are： ❷ SparkMaker"s resin can also be used on other SLA 3D printer use PTFE film or FEP film C=Cyan M=Magenta Y=Yellow K=key as tank bottom,and the curing band is on 355-420nm SLA 3D printer,but the actual printing Here K refers to the Key,it can also represent Black,because printing is more often parameters need to be adjusted by users.

Slowly pull up the Z axis and the working panel, and open the LCD screen interface to Z axis release the LCD screen cable. LCD screen cable R e m o v e t h e s h a d i n g t a p e Working panel LCD screen around the LCD screen.

Extend the cable of the new LCD screen into the interior along the left Take out the LCD screen and pull side gap of the working panel and out the LCD cable from the gap on install the new LCD screen in the the left side of the working panel.

Slowly lower the Z-axis Insert the cable into the and working panel and Z axis LCD interface and press close the housing. Plug the the connector down. four M3 nuts on the bottom of the housing back into t h e b o t t o m m o u n t i n g Small hex wrench LCD screen cable holes, and then tighten...

Big hex wrench Round head screw Washer Bottom of the printer LCD screen Shading tape In the state of the card printing, the backlight is lit, and the LCD screen is displaying pattern, apply Tighten the three flat head screws and three washers on the shading tape along the black edge bottom of the printer clockwise with a big hex wrench.

DC input (As shown) Slowly pull Motor interface up the Z axis and the working plane, open the FPC interface upwards, release the FPC cable of the LCD and the knob, Small hex wrench Small hex wrench pull out the four-wire plug of the photoelectric P h o t o e l e c t r i c switch and screw motor...

DC input Motor interface Slowly lower the Z-axis and (As shown) Press down working panel and close the on the LCD screen and housing. Place the nut from t h e k n o b F P C c a b l e , the hole in the bottom of the insert the four-wire plug printer.

LCD- LCD- LCD- LCD- LCD- LCD- LCD- LCD- LCD- LCD- LCD- LCD- LCD- LCD- LCD- LCD- LCD- LCD- LCD- LCD- LCD- LCD- LCD- LCD- Resin Resin 0.1mm 0.1mm Layer Layer Exposure Exposure 0.05mm 0.05mm Time Time 0.025mm 0.025mm Exposure Exposure Strength Strength Lift Distance...

©How to get a print model? ❶ Download the print file "print.wow"(for SparkMaker Original )or "print.fhd" (for SparkMaker FHD ) file that can be printed directly from the official SparkMaker website (www.sparkmaker3d.com). ❷ Download the STL file from the 3D Print Model website or convert the model file to the STL file format.

SD card is "print.wow"(for number of printed layers regardless of the cross-sectional area. In the case of the same layer thickness the shorter SparkMaker Original )or "print.fhd" (for SparkMaker FHD ). If other file names are used...

©Can I continue printing if printing is suddenly interrupted? ❷ The residual resin residue on the tank or platform crushes the LCD screen during printing. SparkMaker SLA 3D printer does not have this feature yet. ❸ The connection cable inside the LCD screen is loose during transportation.

❶ The layer exposure time is not enough the layer exposure time should be increased appropriately. SparkMaker SLA 3D printer is a surface-curing method for layer-by-layer printing. In the case of high layer ❷ If the support is too thin a thicker support should be used.

)or "print.fhd" (for ) and save it to the SD card. Original SparkMaker FHD ❶ Carefully protect the FEP film from scratches. ©How to check if the LCD screen and light board are working properly? ❷ After a period of use if there are a lot of obvious creases on the FEP film replace the new FEP film in time.

Warning. WOW Innovation (Shenzhen) Technology Co., Ltd. does not assume any loss caused by the contains instructions for safety, operation,and maintenance. Be sure to visit the SparkMaker website user not using the product in this User Manual. In compliance with laws and regulations,WOW Innovation (Shenzhen) Technology Co., Ltd.

Type Feature Color Hardness Elongation Description LCD-T Tough Clear 115% ABS Alike Water Water LCD-W Clear 150% Washable Washable LCD-C Casting Clear Casting Platform handle LCD-E Elastic Clear 300% Rubber Alike LCD-N Nylon Alike Black 115% Nylon Alike Cover LCD-H High HDT Clear >300℃...

Based on the principle of trichromatic mixing with black ink,a total of four colors are ❶ Theoretically,resins with a curing band of 400-410 nm can be used in mixed and superimposed to form a "full-color printing". SparkMaker ,but if other third-party resins are used,the printed parameters must be adjusted by yourself.

❷ Please carefully open the LCD screen cable LCD screen interface,do not LCD screen LCD screen Working panel damage the LCD cable and LCD interface. Shading tape SparkMaker LCD screen FPC interface LCD screen cable SparkMaker...

Extend the cable of the new LCD screen into the interior along the left side gap of the working panel and install the new LCD screen in the correct position. Take out the LCD screen ＊ Notice: ❶ Before installing,please remove and pull out the LCD cable the protective film on both sides of the from the gap on the left side...

LCD screws shown. LCD screen Working panel interface. Notice: ＊ SparkMaker Do not damage the LCD screen. Flat head screw LCD screen FPC interface LCD screen cable M3 nut M3 nut SparkMaker...

Big hex wrench Round head screw Washer Bottom of the printer LCD screen Shading tape In the state of the printing, the backlight is lit,and the LCD screen Tighten the three round head screws and three washers on i s d i s p l a y i n g p at t e r n , at t a ch shading tape along the black edge the bottom of the printer clockwise with the big hex wrench.

DC input Motor interface (As shown) Slowly pull DC input Motor interface (As shown) Slowly pull up the Z axis and the up the Z axis and the working plane,open the working plane,open FPC interface upwards, t h e F P C i n t e r f a c e release the FPC cable of t o l o o s e n t h e LC D the LCD and the knob,...

Motor interface DC input (As shown) Press down on the LCD screen and the knob FPC cable, insert down the four- wire plug of the limit Small hex wrench s w i t c h a n d s c r e w Small hex wrench P h o t o e l e c t r i c motor,and insert the...

DC input Motor interface Slowly lower the Z-axis A s s h o w n ) P r e s s and working panel and d o w n o n t h e F P C close the housing. Plug connector,connect the the four M3 nuts on the LCD cable,and insert...

❸ If you use the knob to control the printer check if the print file named in the SD card is"print.wow"(for ©How to get a print model? SparkMaker version)or "print.fhd" (for SparkMaker FHD version). If other file names are used they will not ❶ Download the print file "print.wow"(for SparkMaker version)or "print.fhd"...

©Why is there nothing stuck on the aluminum plate of the printing platform after the SparkMaker SLA 3D printer is a face-to-layer printing method. The printing time is only related to the height printing is finished,and the residual resin is stuck on the FEP film at the bottom of the number of printed layers regardless of the cross-sectional area.

©Why are there ladder stripes in the Z axis direction of the print model? ❸ Excessive pressure will break the LCD screen. SparkMaker SLA 3D printer is a surface-curing method for layer-by-layer printing. In the case of high layer ©Note on the use of FEP film thickness there will be a ladder stripes in the Z-axis direction of the model.

Case in point? The $300 Sparkmaker printer. Born from a Kickstarter project that launched in early 2017, the Sparkmaker is one of the first SLA/DLP printers to break the $500 barrier – so we got our hands on one to see how it stands up to the competition.

The first thing you’ll notice about the Sparkmaker is its diminutive size and weight. Tipping the scales at just six pounds, and measuring a slim 6 x 11 inches (it’s a cylinder), it’s easily one of the smallest printers on the market. So while it won’t be hard to find a spot for the little guy, it does come with a downside.

Lifting the orange UV-blocking hood reveals the printer’s tiny 4 x 2.2 x 5 inch build envelope. While that’s certainly not the smallest build area we’ve ever seen, you shouldn’t expect to do any huge prints on this machine. On the upside, Sparkmaker does feature a removable resin vat, which makes swapping materials a breeze.

The Sparkmaker owes its low price point to its relatively simple printing technique. Instead of using a laser like Formlabs’ printers, Sparkmaker uses a UV backed LCD screen to project an image up into a vat of resin, which causes it to solidify – a process known as DLP. Despite having a few minor drawbacks, this printing method provides the Sparkmaker with a maximum resolution of ten micrometers. For those of you keeping score at home, that’s ten times more detail than your average FDM printer, and about 1.5 times more detail than the $3,500 Ultimaker 3 – arguably the best consumer-level FDM machine on the market right now.

Unlike FDM printers, the Sparkmaker only has one moving component and doesn’t require any assembly, so it’s extremely simple to set up. After plugging it in, all you have to do is pour some resin into the tank and make sure the build plate is level. Once you’ve done that, you’re ready to print.

Then there’s the software. Like many printers these days, Sparkmaker has its own proprietary slicing program that can be downloaded for free on the manufacturer’s website. It’s called Sparkstudio, and compared to most other proprietary slicing programs, it’s one of the most intuitive and approachable ones we’ve ever used.

Sparkmaker is inexpensive for a reason. Most of the body is made of plastic, and the parts feel a bit flimsy and cheap. The creators definitely cut some corners during manufacturing, and it shows.

There is a fairly simple workaround for this problem, though. Following some advice from the Sparkmaker Facebook group, we used a different 3D printer to print a new lead screw. This simple replacement drastically improved the printer’s success rate and overall consistency. If you intend on buying this printer, you should definitely plan on replacing that screw.

Another bonus is that, generally speaking, the Sparkmaker is incredibly easy to take apart and work on – which is good, because it definitely requires some tinkering.

Sparkmaker’s on-board user interface is practically nonexistent, and is comprised of nothing more than a single push knob. However, unlike other printers that utilize this design, that’s all the Sparkmaker gives you. It doesn’t have an accompanying screen for you to navigate with, so the machine lacks a variety of helpful functions as a result. These include: being able to pause a print, the ability to adjust machine settings without plugging in to a computer, and the ability to select specific files on your SD card for printing. The latter is particularly annoying, as you’re then forced to either remove old files or rename them. Sparkmaker will only recognize sliced files named “Print.wow.” It’s not the worst problem you could ever have, but it’s definitely one of those bothersome quirks that make the machine a pain to work with.

Despite the issues with consistency and slicing bugs, the Sparkmaker prints surprisingly well – (when it finishes, that is). With its maximum Z-axis resolution of 10 microns, this little machine can print some amazing detail and super fine geometry. There’s a slight amount of voxeling visible on some of our test prints (a consequence of the printer’s DLP printing technique), but the effect is only noticeable if you’re looking for it.

Overall, the Sparkmaker’s virtues outweigh its flaws when it comes to print quality. It’s definitely not on the same level as, say, the Formlabs Form 2, but let’s not forget that this is a $300 printer we’re talking about here. It’s one tenth the price of a top-of-the-line machine, yet offers only slightly lower quality. That’s pretty impressive.

Print quality is only one part of the equation, though. Consistency and reliability are the other part of it, and unfortunately, that’s where Sparkmaker falls short. Due to the aforementioned software bugs and hardware flaws, this machine has a woefully above-average failure rate.

All in all, we’d say that the Sparkmaker produces impressively detailed prints about 30 percent of the time. The other 70 percent, you wind up with something that resembles postmodern glitch art. We’ll continue working on it though, and will update this article if we figure out how to get better, more consistent prints.

That said, Sparkmaker definitely isn’t a good printer for beginners. In its current state it’s too flawed, too buggy, and too unreliable for us to recommend to anyone who is just breaking into the 3D printing scene. However, if you enjoy a little challenge and aren’t afraid of getting your hands dirty, the Sparkmaker is a fixer-upper that might be worth your time.

You definitely won’t find another SLA/DLP printer that can match Sparkmaker’s $300 price tag. However, there are a couple competitors out there that you can snag for around $500 – such as the Wanhao Duplicator 7, which boasts a slightly larger build volume, and a built-in screen for menu navigation.

If you don’t have your heart set on an SLA/DLP printer, there’s a handful of good FDM printers on the market you can get your paws on for around $300. For budget buyers, we highly recommend Monoprice’s $160 Mini Delta printer. It can’t match the Sparkmaker’s print resolution, but it does boast a larger build area, and is far more reliable.

With its cheap parts and plastic chassis, the Sparkmaker’s lifespan will likely definitely depend on how you treat it. Without regular maintenance, we’d be willing to bet things will fail after a year or two. However, if you keep it tuned up and well-oiled, it’ll probably keep on ticking past the age of 5 – assuming that WOW! keeps pushing out firmware updates and bug fixes.

On the plus side, Sparkmaker’s community is brimming with guides for fixes and upgrades. We found endless support through the Facebook community as we encountered problems, both from other users and the developers themselves.

If you’re new to 3D printing and you want something that’s easy to use, definitely don’t buy this printer. We guarantee it will make you pull your hair out. However, if you’re ready to get messy and have the gumption to make a few DIY upgrades, then Sparkmaker might be up your alley. With a bit of tinkering, you can definitely make this machine shine.