flash firmware onto a v56 lcd panel driver board made in china

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“PCB800099”, also known as VS-TY2662-V1 is an LCD controller PCB which has entered the market relatively recently. As per usual I have no idea who designed either the board or who wrote its software, but I do know it is based on the Realtek RTD2662 controller, although some may be labelled RTD2660 (which in theory means no HDMI), but if your HDMI input works, it’s an RTD2662. This is just sloppy chip labelling. The RTD266x family represents Realtek’s “TV” lineup, and using this, you notice it.

With my favourite variety (the RM5451 and variants) of D.I.Y. LCD controllers getting long in the tooth, and this also being a Realtek looks like a promising replacement, but having ordered one, I’m not quite sure it is.

It feels more like a TV, less like a Monitor. The RM5451’s firmware mostly manages to stay out of your way, whereas with PCB800099, it’s firmware is in your face. You’ll get a no input “Blue screen”, comprehensive and lengthy OSD popups warning of “No Signal” and whatever input it’s set to.

Because it’s a TV, it assumes that more than one input is in use at a time, and doesn’t auto detect, You’ve got to select the desired input. This is annoying when you’ve got it as a carry around rig using only one input at a time. At least once you a select an input, it remembers it even if you power it off. Thank god.

For the more advanced hacker (i.e. one who’s bought the programmer kit), it’s not as great. Unlike RM5451 which comes with a reliable USB programmer, with hundreds of images for various LCD panels, PCB800099 has only a parallel port programmer with just a handful of binary images, hacked by the vendor to to support a few panels. Some images don’t work at all.

But it’s not all bad. I’ve added support for PCB800099 to my ROVATool application, allowing a USB programmer (More here) which at least makes the programming of these boards a bit easier, but I don’t support editing.

The panel I used here (LP171WP4) is unsupported by the supplied images, but by picking one with the same resolution and LVDS interface type and modifying the embedded EDID blocks I was able to get it working.

It is connector compatible with R.RM5451, including the LVDS interface and backlight. Caveat: backlight enable signal is only driven to +3.3v, which in rare cases could cause issues. The LP171WP4 I’ve got it connected to is a rare example of this, where I’ve had to buffer it because it requires a +5V backlight enable signal.

Overall the hardware solution of the RTD266x is a clear improvement over the RTD2120L + RTD2545 combo of the RM5451/RM5251, but unfortunately in this case, unless you’re happy with the insides of a cheap TV, the same cannot be said for its firmware.

A reader has kindly posted a source snapshot on github (originally provided by another reader) of the firmware, including the changes needed to make it actually compile and program with ROVATool.

I get a lot of emails about this board to the effect of “I just bought one of these – how do I make it work with X?” If you’re thinking of sending one, please don’t. Trying to train up even a single newbie on this subject can burn hours of my day.

I am always keen to hear from people who have already been on the journey of learning about display controllers, and are at an advanced level of understanding, and perhaps even may have something to add to what I have here.

USB File Format: Audio (Mp3, wma, m4a/aac), Video (avi, mp4, ts/trp, mkv/mov, mpg, dat, vob, rm/rmvb),                                                 Picture (Jpg, jpeg, bmp, png), Text (text)

It continues to flash and never stop. This is normal, just wait about 1 minute, this means that the update is complete. Then turn off and turn off the u-disk

Download your required software and then extract it you will get the folder. Now copy the files to USB or load with Programmer. For More Detail about the download process, watch the video Click Here

I recently came into a pile of V-by-one panels, and discovered boards for them are significantly harder to come by than their eDP or LVDS brethren. But I"ve found a few on aliexpress and we"re up and running:

The nice thing about VBO is the connector is more-or-less standardized, and it"s a very durable JAE series, so plugging and unplugging isn"t such an issue. (Prototyping with LVDS or MIPI DSI tends to run into fatigue issues unless you"re scrupulously gentle.)

Beyond the panel interface, there"s also the matter of the backlight. Sometimes the backlight driver is separate, sometimes it"s built into the scaler board. The connectors for these are almost always evil and you have to hope your supplier can include the cables, because you"ll never find them yourself.

I would loooooove to find a source for the SDK to build the software that runs in the scaler chip. When I buy the scaler boards, they come with random firmware that the supplier isn"t particularly interested in updating. Other builds of the same board support DDC/CI but don"t have the backlight driver on "em, and cost more. There"s so much stuff about the firmware I"d like to change...

LCD panels of broken laptops or old TVs can easily be turned into multifunctional displays. You can give them analog and digital inputs and media player capabilities with a cheap universal controller board. As long as the panel itself is functional, you can use the V56 controller board to drive both the screen and the backlight. Reuse LCD screens as media players, video monitors or computer displays and save them from the garbage dump!

The easiest way to repurpose your LCD panel is by using a V56 controller kit that comes with all the parts that you need. I tested the V56 Universal LCD TV Controller Driver Board from Banggood It supports most LVDS panels with resolutions up to 1920 x 1080 pixels.  It comes with the following parts:

First of all, remove the LCD screen from its housing. In my case, it was an old laptop screen, so I detached the lid from the laptop and removed the plastic housing from the screen.

According to the specifications you looked up in the previous step, you need to set the voltage jumper on the controller board. There are 3 options: 3.3 volts, 5 volts and 12 volts. Make sure you set the right voltage, or else the magic smoke might escape!

Look for the file that matches your screen’s model number and resolution. If the model is not listed, then choose the “general” type for that resolution

The power LED should be blinking BLUE for a couple of times while it’s loading the new firmware. If it doesn’t upload the firmware, you should try renaming the file from “LAMV45R.bin” to “LAMV56.bin” (remove the R)

Here is a Toshiba C655D-S5200 that had a broken case. It had severe water damage and the case was broken at the hinges. I salvaged as many parts as possible and wanted to use the LCD panel for a project. Over the last few years that I have been a member of iFixit, we had a couple of questions about what to do with spare panels. So, I figured I"d spend $32 and purchase a LCD controller board and investigate how difficult it would be. The trickiest part was to find a controller board that matches the panel.The LCD panel in this Toshiba is a LTN156AT05-U09. I contacted a couple of vendors on Ebay and found one that was very responsive and accommodating. I ordered the controller board and it arrived in 2 weeks from China.

However, this "new" V56, there is no support for most popular laptop"s screens, like for example: 1280x800_SI6L, 1600x900_DO6L , 1920x1080_DO6L and many more etc. etc. Anyway, there is way to made them work, for example for screen 1280x800_SI6L use firmware "1280x800" and "SI8L" and then, if still not working, in "Service Menu" change LVDS MAP value, that way screen works well as SI6L . The same can be done for other resolutions and LVDS signal types, as described

There are also signals that some new V56 controllers, rejects LAMV56.bin file and do not want to program it. In such case, add letter "R" in file name, like that - LAMV56R.bin, such file will be programmed well. This character "R" add for first time reprogramming only, after successful first time controller reprogram, you can use regular LAMV56.bin files without "R" for next screens.

So, always consider and think twice, before buy any board, choose seller fully supporting latest firmware files for his board, if he is not - simply DO NOT buy, because you will have useless piece of junk.

Programming is very simple, we must choose proper .bin file and copy it to USB pen-drive at root directory, plug pen-drive into USB, then plug power cord, status LED will made some flashes, first slower and at end faster, and software upgrade is done, you will see picture on LCD screen.

Attention: Sometimes, when playing with firmware, if there be power cut/brake during programming and flash will not finish programming, than the board become dead.

I bought two of these touchscreens on eBay, complete with controller boards and frames. I had one 11.6" display available to me already, and another one wouldn"t be too hard to source in the future if I decided to. But first, gotta successfully reuse one of these to make sure my idea works.

This one is certainly a USB device - most of modern laptop touchscreens are - so most of the laptop webcam reuse tips will apply. I need to find VCC, D+, D- and GND. There"s 4 pins on the connector, so I don"t have to worry about pins like EN and RST being present - they are on some touchscreens, but not this one.

The connector receptacle isn"t something that I have a plug for when looking through my collection of random wire ends. This means I have to solder to the touchscreen board, sadly.

I"m using 4 individually insulated copper wires to solder to this board. To remove the insulation, I need to hold the wire end inside a blob of melted solder on the tip of my soldering iron so that the insulation burns away a bit, my soldering iron is set for 330C for that.

Some touchscreens actually want 5V VCC, others need 3.3V. How do I determine that? I usually just power them from 3.3V and then, if they fail to work, do research to see if perhaps they"d need 5V. This time, I had a connection problem and decided to double-check whether the touchscreen would work from 3.3V, so let"s go through my process of researching whether a touchscreen is 3.3V or 5V.

I didn"t have 1 and 2, so I had to resort to 3. Asus X200CA doesn"t have schematics available but there"s boardview files. With OpenBoardView and the FZ key, I was able to open the boardview file and browse it. Now, where do I find the touchscreen connector?

Sometimes the touchscreen cable is a separate cable, and sometimes it"s the same cable that also carries the display signals, and I need to know this to know which connector to look for touchscreen signals on. I looked up "x200ca cable" on eBay and found this:

Looks like exactly the cable we need, one connector (right) is the kind of connector that plugs into our touchscreen controller board, and another one (left) is a Molex connector often used in laptops. So, the touchscreen has a separate connector. I could look up an "Asus X200CA teardown" video on YouTube and see exactly where that wire goes, but I saved a bit of time by googling "X200CA motherboard" and looking at images:

So, it"s decided, the touchscreen wants 3.3V, and it"s good to know that for sure - now I won"t think "oh, maybe it needs 5V after all" and end up accidentally destroying it.

The "determining voltage" part isn"t necessary if you"re not having doubts about the right voltage, that"d happen if the touchscreen fails to work at 3.3V, for instance. Otherwise, I"d say, you are pretty safe just powering it from 3.3V.

The pinout, however, has to be determined. I usually take a multimeter, find GND, then VCC, then USB D+ and D- - as the latter are hard to tell apart, I try them in one polarity and swap them if they don"t work.

This controller board is already connected to the touchscreen glass and screwed to the touchscreen frame. I see no use in disconnecting and unscrewing it, there"s more than enough exposed pins on the part of the board accessible to us.

GND is likely to be at the screw hole - checking with a multimeter, there"s indeed connectivity between one of the pins on the 4-pin connector and the metal around the screw hole. It also is connected to all of the capacitors on the board, so that cements it, we found GND. I won"t solder a wire to the screw hole itself, but instead to one of the other GND points on the board.

VCC is very prominent on this board, it"s a thick trace going somewhere to the right from the connector. Even the connector"s mechanical pins are connected to VCC and not to GND, as usual - not that it matters this time.

Now, I just connect wires from my small microUSB+3.3V breakout board to the touchscreen, and, after swapping D+ and D- wires once (at the breakout, not at the connector), it works:

Of course, it"s out-of-the-box on Linux, with Windows, your mileage may vary. Sometimes Windows wants drivers, even if it"s a popular touchscreen - usually isn"t needed with Linux, thanks to all of the in-kernel drivers.

I touch the touchscreen (from its front size) and the mouse pointer of my laptop moves! Ain"t that nice. After fastening the wires a bit, I decide that I"ve successfully reused this touchscreen. Now it just needs a display fitted to it:

You can basically use any universal LCD controller board. I use a V56 or a V53 LCD controller board. You can flash its firmware via a USB flash drive. However, if you’re planning on using a PIR-sensor then you’ll also have to add a relay because it won’t go into standby mode. Instead it will complain about “No Signal”.

One like this is very cheap and can be configured by a set of jumpers. Drawback is it only has a VGA port. So you’ll need an additional VGA-to-HDMI-adapter. However, the cheapest will do.

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