mcwill lcd screen factory

Tv tuner compatibility and scaling issue. Mcwill screen is great but there"s no bilinear filtered full scaling option or video inputs; doesn"t seem like screen can be toggled on/off independently with console off.

AFAIK the uc-320 uses 68 pin adhesive ribbon cable. 68 pin plug somehow allows screen to interface with vdp to be manipulated in unique ways. Think that"s how both sms and gg titles can fill entire screen space without scaling issues.

McWill LCD kits as we all know were the first mod kits to be developed for the Sega Game Gear and also the Atari Lynx and have become famous worldwide for its amazing picture quality and technical superiority to not only the original LCD but also to the clone competition.

With the McWill “method” of installing kits specifically for the Sega Game Gear and also the Atari Lynx, it is by far the most reliable and long lasting technique to connect any mod kit. While many would say McWill is “harder” to install because more components need to be removed to make the kit’s functional, GameGears4You/McWill believe this method is best as it no longer relies on any of those troublesome old power supply components to power on and function. Leaving these components in the system and relying on them w/ any clone upgrade can cause many problems with installs as many of these old power supply components can very often be defective.

Final Thought: With there being so many choices for screen upgrades these days, McWill kits still stand superior to all others. The longevity, reliability and quality are unmatched due to poor install and manufacturing methods of the current competition.

This listing is for the Installation Service Plus LCD Hardware for an IPS Backlit LCD Screen replacement in an original Game Boy System.The shell and buttons will be upgraded. Please choose your favorite color for the shell. The LCD screen does not fit an original shell without modifications. If you prefer to use the original shell we may be able to modify it for you, email us for a quote. Buttons will be gray by default on most systems, with the exception of the original gray system which will have the maroon buttons. Please email for other possibilities.

PLEASE READ: We highly suggest insuring your shipment to us. We are not responsible for any damage until the console is received and inspected. Your console must be in working order when inspected. We only provide the installation of the Game Boy LCD Screen. Please Do NOT ship your console to us without purchasing this service first.

This installation service includes the Game Boy LCD Screen as well as a new shell and buttons. Your old Hardware will NOT be saved or returned to you unless you request it.

Will work with the original LCD installed, our IPS LCD or no lcd at all! Should also work with the CleanScreen but will not work with the McWill mod, the Chinese LCD mods or any kit which requires you to strip half the PCB.

If you plan on installing the kit yourself and also utilizing the LCDDRV for internal video. Don’t forget to order the LCDDRV adapter board. It will simplify your installation considerably.

A picture off Facebook from a professional repair man, please note he uses a lot of SMD ceramic/tantalum capacitors (tantalum has the lowest ESR) the size of the caps is 1210/1206. If you find them in the right values, this is a much better option than using electrolytes, because the physical space in the console is very limited and the ceramic/tantalum caps are much more reliable. This board also has the LCD screen mod.

If the fault on your game gear is the CFL tube lights, no power light, black screen then power off. A few times switching on and off and it starts working, than it was suggested to swap tiny transistor next to the 0.47 50v caps, swapping(Q3, Q4 transistors fixed the issue in one case).

One easy thing to check is leave the Game Gear on, for some time. If your screen is still flickering pay attention to transistors (Q9 and Q10). Sometimes electrolytic fluid from leaked capacitors catches underneath one of the transistors or resistors and that can be causing a slight short.

The last resolve would be an LCD screen mod McWill or a Chinese clone. (all of the images are from FB group and are here for educational purposes only)

If the lines roll and are not static, than there is usually still hope that recapping will fix the screen issue. With static lines it usually means that there is physical damage to the screen or the driver chip died or is on its way out.

Matt Marshall from the Facebook group suggested that sometimes these lines can be removed by (very!) gently warming up the LCD chip & ribbon cable and basically attempt to re-flow the ribbon cable, this should be used as a last result as you may damage the screen. If the lines roll and are not static, than there is usually still hope that recapping will fix the screen issue.

Alex Schot from FB group: “The middle IC LCD driver chip is losing connection or failing. Sometimes applying heat to the IC (hover your soldering iron above it for example) and then pressing down will fix the issue.” You could also try with a hairdryer.

This screen was saved by changing electrolytic capacitors. If the lines roll and are not static, than there is usually still hope that recapping will fix the screen issue.

Some have tried to fix this issue by heating the right edge of the GG LCD but have also had it come back not to long after. This issue seem like a typical case off ribbon cable detaching from the screen matrix. As a last resort I would try to heat the connections and try to re-flow them.

Vertical lines aren’t unfixable so much as its only a temporary fix, they are caused the same way they are on Game boy screens, just heating the ribbon cable with hot air and pressing it down usually removes them however every time the system gets hot you fix melting the connection and it probably dying again.

There are basically two variants, the first using the same bios/init code as the lynx1 (It doesn"t set the vblank interval timer so it never generates a vblank and the screen will roll until the game sets the vblank. This results in the splash screen on most games rolling until the game starts and its stable. These systems are identified by the motherboard version C104129-001 and we have a firmware specific for these systems. This is noted on our product page and a unique product page for these systems in on our site if you have this motherboard revision)

Different chipsets will not affect the way a game is loaded, or cart compatiblity or anything like that. It is purely the lack of a vblank signal to the LCD. Why is this problem on an aftermarket LCD and not the original? The FPGA in our kits takes a finite time to boot, a few uS, where the original LCD is ready to go at power up. It counts the lines and will re-sync its self. Ours cannot, and for these systems we use the CPU"s vblank signal for synchronisation.

I"m sure it has been repeated on this forum but it really is VERY important to recap and replace the regulator components in your Lynx. They are a timebomb and as they age, the 5v line can drop or sag or can introduce ripple which will cause all kinds of issues regardless of the cart or screen used. If the fet or driving circuit fails, your Mike&|Suzy is dead. If adding a 100nf cap (c7) can restore system operation I would definitely suggest you service you console.