mcwill lcd screen quotation

Replace your aging Atari Lynx screen with the new McWill Atari Lynx screen! This new screen offers a sharp and clear image and consumes less power than the original stock screen. For an additional charge, a VGA port can be installed so that the Lynx video can be output to a modern display.

I have installed several screens now, and only had a problem on the single asic model where after replacing the 2 resistors and 2 caps the game gear would not work anymore (had this twice). The clock signal was gone, and after placing the original components back, it came back to life.

Anyhow, to you problem, what I normally do (in order to isolate/detect problems in time) is first I do a full recap of the game gear. After this I make sure it"s working 100%. Then I follow the instructions up to the point where you test for the 5V, one note one this, I don"t do the brightness wires unless I install the vga connector, it"s not required without the connector. At this point I insert a game and make sure the sound board is hooked up. The game should start, and although the screen is removed you should hear the sound, indication all things are working properly. Only then I start to install the screen and again test it before I do the wires of the buttons. When working properly I install the button wires and fix the screen in place. I don"t like to use solder for this so I use a hot glue gun on the top 2 points, that is more than sufficient.

What I would do is desolder all wires and uninstall the screen. Then see if it works (sound). The 4.3V is definitely not correct and something is wrong here, I repaired many game gears and all are around 4.9v.

We"ve designed the V1 GG lcd kit to give the absolute best image quality for the price. We use IPS panels with an amazing viewing angle, deep blacks, rich colors and bright whites. IPS is the technology used in smart phones - vs TFT which was the standard used in the 2000"s. The V1 kit does not provide VGA out.

Note: PCB images are of the prototype, production board will be smaller and attached to the LCD.  Shell modification is required. Soldering is required.

The installation of the Magic Screen requires (in addition to the original screen and its backlight system of course) the removal of only 3 components.

Thus the Magic Screen consumes between 1.6W and 2W depending on the backlight setting chosen and we have chosen to equip the kit with a switch-mode power supply for maximum reliability. We did not want to risk the linear power supply which sometimes causes a short circuit in the kit or in the console.

Never seen such great colours on the internal Lynx display - and playing on a 19"" computer LCD is really great (espcecially for me - with not so good eyes)

After installing the McWill LCD, the console worked fine for a few minutes then the red LED started blinking. After 10 minutes or so it turned off completely. After resetting it I would get the static image that I"ve uploaded in this post. When this static screen appears, both the LED and sound don"t work either. So I continued to power it on and off repeatedly and I got it to work. But again, the red LED would blink and it would eventually power off. So I took it apart and checked all my soldering. Everything looked fine. I had no idea what could be the issue so I recapped the whole console (now the second time) and put it back together. It made no difference, I was still getting the static screen. So I took it apart again. I had the console disassembled/split into 2 parts and I tried to get it to work in this state. Powering it on and I was able to get clear video and sound. This didn"t last very long because moving the top half of the console just a tad and it would power off. So I continued to try powering it on and off while the console was still split into 2 and moving the two halves around in case there was a bad connection. This would work sometimes, the vast majority of the time it would not. Most times I would get the static image. My best guess from that was the connector between the power PCB and the mainboard was possibly bad. I desoldered it and connected the two PCB"s with some 26 awg wire. It made no difference. At this point I gave up.

Every couple of days or so I would try turning the game gear on and off while disassembled and once in a blue moon I"m able to get video and sound. When I do get it to work the red LED blinks and eventually it completely shuts off. 99 times out of 100 I get a static screen with no sound and power LED off. I was once able to have it running for a little over an hour and the LED was not blinking. The VGA out worked at this time also.

My game gear is a 837-7719-01. I haven"t got a clue where to go from here. I don"t believe the issue is with the McWill screen at all but rather the main board itself. My best guesses at the moment are:

Look at the pictures and see how much improvement I got. This upgrade is amazing. However I had a scary moment when I turned it on and the screen was totally dark. I could see through the LCD that a picture was being shown but there was no backlight. The module provided (which is different from the picture) needs an extra resistor (75 ohm, but I read someone did it with 100 ohm as well) to be soldered at the pads under the SS12 component near the ribbon connector. Without it, there will be no backlight. The resistor is not provided in the kit, so make sure you have one.