sm-t310 lcd panel free sample
The complexity of the replacement process will vary based on experience. It can take between 30 minutes to an hour to successfully remove the LCD screen or digitizer. It is important to practice caution, as the glass screen is fragile, and you don"t want to damage it during the process of fixing it. Ensure that you have all the necessary repair parts on hand before beginning. Also, make certain that each part is compatible with the Galaxy Tab 3. Using parts that are not compatible with the Samsung Galaxy Tab 3 could lead to further damage to the device. Here are a few steps to follow.Power the device off
Screen digitizer replacement can be done once the original screen has been successfully removed. Replacing the glass with a new one gives it a crisp display with color clarity. It only takes a few minutes to appropriately attach the LCD replacement once the damaged one has been removed. It is advised to not rush the replacement steps, but to execute them slowly to result in an accurate alignment. Here are the steps to consider.The new screen has an inner plastic film attached, remove it and discard
This part is only compatible with the Samsung Tab 3 8.0 SM-T310 Wifi Version. Please do not confuse it with the Samsung Tab 3 8.0 SM-T311 LCD Assembly, which is for 3G Version.
These parts are hermetically attached. Special tooling and skills are required for replacing this Samsung Galaxy Tab 3 8.0 SM-T310 LCD screen assembly.
The installation of the Galaxy Tab 3 8.0 SM-T310 LCD assembly should be done by a qualified person. ETS is not responsible for any damage caused during installation.
Although Samsung has chosen a SAMOLED display this time, it is still quite a respectable panel: colors are crisp and the image is very good. The black level of 0.56 cd/m² is significantly higher than most other devices, and the contrast ratio of 764:1 is only average.
I don"t know about the older ones. But I just tried to replace the Screen Digitizer. So the glass and touch screen on a Samsung Galaxy Tab Model: SM-T310 16GB WiFi model.
Unfortunately they have decided to glue the Glass/Digitizer to the LCD panel, making it very difficult if not almost impossible to replace only the Glass/Digitizer panel. (I followed a guide on Youtube where the digitizer was only glued to the bezel not the LCD)
I used a heat gun with different settings that i purchased from Harbor Freight for around $30 dollars that actually has different settings. I used the 570 deg F first and once I realized the LCD was glued to the glass I moved it up a notch to 660 deg F. Unfortunately I wasn"t patient enough and ended up cracking the LCD as well. I"m not sure what temperatures the LCD can actually handle either, that may also have damaged it. I know the logic boards and electronic components can definitely handle that high of a temperature, LCD doubtful. Would be nice if one of the iFixit guru"s could weigh in on this. I"ve taken pictures of the torn down unit, if you want me to post. It"s not really a help in taking it apart, but it"s verification for you that there actually is/was glue on the LCD in the newer models.
LCD panels" resolutions are often quoted in terms of raw subpixels, misnamed "pixels" in manufacturer"s specifications. Each real pixel includes one subpixel for each of three colors, so calling subpixels "pixels" inflates the claimed resolution by a factor of three. This bit of marketing obfuscation is calculated as horizontal resolution × vertical resolution × 3. For example: 640 × 480 VGA is 921,600 subpixels, or 307,200 pixels, 800 × 600 SVGA is 1,440,000 subpixels, or 480,000 pixels, and 1024 × 768 XGA is 2,359,296 subpixels, but only 786,432 full-color pixels.
If you have an older Nexus tab, you might need to remove the panel around the camera to see the model number. Use a pry tool, as shown in the following video – but check Method 2 first, which shows you how to find your model number via the settings menu.