arduino and dht11 output to lcd module supplier

Here is the simple code that will make it work correctly. I had the same issue and just figured it out. I put some comments about the changes I made and stuff I figured out…. Make sure you have the 3 libraries that are noted “#include”

arduino and dht11 output to lcd module supplier

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If you do not know about DHT11, DHT22 temperature sensor and LCD (pinout, how it works, how to program ...), learn about them in the following tutorials:

The above code also work for Arduino Nano. A grandfather, who learns through this tutorial to guide his grandchild has tested this code with Arduino Nano and send us the result like below:

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arduino and dht11 output to lcd module supplier

I have the dht11 reading and printing to lcd and serial monitor.I have the dht11 controlling two relays one for temp and one for humidity.When the relay turns on the dht11 stops sending readings and freezes and stops reading? Any way I can fix that ?thanks

From what I’ve read from the datasheet it can’t be read from more than once every 2 seconds. Changing the delay to 2000 cleared the issue up right away for me

The output is to the serial monitor, unless you have connected an LCD. The video will show you how to open the serial monitor if you don’t already know how to.

A quick question tho, do you have a tutorial on how to connect this to a wireless transceiver?? also in theory could i connect more then one humidity detector to an arduino in order to detect humidity from more then one spot? Thank you again and i’ve subscribed!

Hi Jose, you can definitely connect more than one sensor to a single Arduino. You would basically duplicate the code, and have a separate pins read the data from each sensor. As for connecting them to a wireless tranceiver, I’m sure it’s possible, but you would probably need to use another microcontroller as a hub to transmit the data. I haven’t tried it yet though, so don’t take my word for it!

Hello, I built my first arduino project (measuring the room temperature and humidity with the DHT11) during Christmas holidays. The readings of the values were shown on the screen of my laptop. The measured room temperature was correct, but the measured humidity was much too low (about 20%RH). What can be the reason for ithe low humidity? And how can the sensor (if needed) be recalibrated?

I haven’t tried connecting multiple sensors, but it should be fairly easy. You would just duplicate the code and use a separate pin to read the data for each sensor

Probably not, since the signal is at the same voltage as Vcc. If you swap the Vcc and signal pins, the output will just read -999.00 for temp and humidity.

vcc is the left one, signal the middle one and ground is the round one, in case of a 3 pin DHT11. the diagram above is not right. i was getting the same problem here.

IN MY CASE IN THE DHT-11 BOARD WRONG RESISTOR WAS SOLDERED, WITHOUT KNOWING TAT I HAD TRIED ALL STUFF, GIVEN 10K PULL UP ADDITIONALLY.. DIDN’T WORKED FINALLY TRACED THE RESISTANCE BETWEEN PINS IT WAS 5 OHMS.. THEN BACK TRACED & REMOVED TAT & PULLED UP WITH 10k SOLVED MY ISSUE.. GUESS U TOO HAVE THE SAME ISSUE.. JUST CHK OUT..

The diagram is correct for most three pin DHT11 modules. Depending on the manufacturer, the pins on the PCB might be different though. The pins should be labelled with S for signal and “-” or “GND” ground.

Then i understood, that the breadboard has not 2 power circuits (top and bottom), but four (top left, top right, bottom left, bottom right). This is the thing which was never said on youtube)

See the section “Output Humidity and Temperature Readings to an LCD Display” on a desktop… If you are viewing it on mobile, the full code might not display. Hope this helps

Can you guys help me in this. All I want is to design a circuit that could predict a rainfall or water and send a message to the user to his phone.Also keeping in mind about the humidity and temperature factors.

It sounds like you want to control the heater with the DHT11 and have the readings output to an LCD too… You can use the DHT11 to control the signal to a 5V relay, similar to what’s done in this article: https://www.circuitbasics.com/build-an-arduino-controlled-power-outlet/

Then you just need to add the code to initialize the LCD, include the LiquidCrystal library, and change the “serialprint()” functions to “lcd.print(). We have another article on setting up an LCD on the Arduino if you need help with it: https://www.circuitbasics.com/how-to-set-up-an-lcd-display-on-an-arduino/

i didnt have any trouble interfacing the arduino, lcd and the dht11 sensor and my codes were quite right since when i run it, nothing’s odd in the output. but when i connect the relay,in which an ac device is connected, as an output that turns on after a couple of minutes, the temperature and humidity dislayed on the lcd becomes odd, like chinese and numbers, after some time. i checked my codes but i cant figure out whats wrong with it.

please help me.. i won’t get Alarm temperature and humidity..and show in lcd display 16×2.. and changeing temperature, humidity alarm set point HOW IS DO… PLEASE HELP ME.

So curiously, I had already downloaded and installed the latest version of DHTLib (v0.1.21) versus the older version (v0.1.14) that is provided here. And I kept getting 0.00 values for the temp and humidity readings as Alex reported on April 20, 2016 in a posting above. I scratched my head for a while until I remembered I had the newer version of the library installed. So I removed that, installed the older v0.1.14 version, and bam, lo and behold, I started getting real values back. So this may be the same problem that Alex had, too.

I’ve looked at the brief changelog history in dht.cpp file, and I’m seeing no obvious reason that might allow v0.1.14 to work, but not the newer v0.1.21. Anyone have thoughts about this?

Any comments about DHTLib v0.1.14 vs. v0.1.21, and why this simple Arduino sketch works in the former, but not the latter? The brief history in the cpp file header for v0.1.21 looks like it took care of a few issues so my first instinct is to use that, but again, it results in all zero readings. Anyway, if no comments, well, I’ll have to take a look through the diffs between the two versions to see what might be causing the issue.

vcc is the left one, signal the middle one and ground is the right one, in case of a 3 pin DHT11. the diagram above is not right. i was getting the same problem here.

The diagram is correct, but your particular DHT11 could have a different pinout depending on the manufacturer. The DHT11 I used is from Keyes, what type do you have?

Are you using the four pin DHT11? If so you’ll need to put a 10K Ohm resistor between the Signal line and Vcc. I just added another diagram to the post to make it a bit clearer. That may be causing your issue.

Thanks a lot, may you please help me out, I am using a Mega 2560 with a DHT11 sensor, my problem is that both temperature and humidity reading is just being reed as 0.00 and they are not changing. What might i be doing wrongly, I have even tried the code that accompanies these tutorials

This seems like a really simple setup, but I’ve been having a lot of trouble setting this up. Have there been changes to this library? I have downloaded it, but arduino still refuses to recognize dht or any of the related functions, like temperature/humidity. It had a lot of trouble with line 3, dht DHT;. Any advice?

Yes, the library was updated recently (v. 0.1.21) and doesn’t seem to work. If you download the zip file I put in the post, it should work. It’s the older version 0.1.14.

Hi, you mentioned you added a piece of code to show the “degree” symbol,” lcd.print((char)223)”, can you tell me if the number 223 is from the ASCII table.

vcc is the left one, signal the middle one and ground is the right one, in case of a 3 pin DHT11. the diagram above is not right. i was getting the same problem here.

i am doing fire alarm system using dht and lcd and GSM sim800l how can i make argument to send message from gsm if the sensor reading is higher that the set temp and how to declare it thanks for your response

After uploading a code my dht-11 keeps reading zero ‘0’ for both humidity and temperature as the output on my serial monitor. please what could be the problem?

I am very happy to inform you that I fixed successfully the temp and humidity project with LCD display. I would like to subscribe but cannot find the link.Many thanks

C:\Users\mhine\AppData\Local\Arduino15\packages\esp8266\hardware\esp8266\2.2.0\cores\esp8266/Arduino.h:227:63: error: cannot convert ‘volatile uint32_t* {aka volatile unsigned int*}’ to ‘volatile uint8_t* {aka volatile unsigned char*}’ in initialization

Hi. I have the same issue with the same board. Did you get it to succeed in the end? I would be interested, but I feel that it may be a compatibility issue with a 3rd-party board. I have tried the exact code with other Arduinos that I have and it works just fine.

I get this same error when I try to use the Arduino 101 instead of the Uno. I think the library doesn’t support the board. I would try finding a different DHT library, there are several others out there.

I Have issues with the Arduino recognizing the file dht.h. Was told no such file exist, meanwhile I have uploaded the zip file into the Arduino IDE, which showed in the file directory.

Did you use the library in the zip file from the post, or did you download it from the Arduino.cc page? Version 0.1.21 has some issues and doesn’t appear to work. The zip file in the post is version 0.1.14, and it does work. Also, are you using the Uno, or another board? I couldn’t get the library to work on my Arduino 101…

In this language, does declaring an object variable (as in “dht DHT;”) automatically instantiate it? I am more used to other languages that would need to follow the declaration with something along the lines of “DHT = new dht(params, for, constructor);” Does this normally go without saying in C++, or is this something the Arduino environment automatically adds at the preprocessing** stage?

**: If not “preprocessing,” then whatever else Arduino parlance calls the process of converting/expanding the “Processing” (??) or “Wiring” (???) code into standard C/C++ ????

hey can you pls help me how to use rf module with the above project. i am using two arduino uno, DHT11, LCD, RF transmitter and receiver. please can u give me a code to display temperature and humidity on the receiver side lcd…

to start the cummunication the ardduino will give LOW to the data line,after the dht finished the transmition of data,the line will return to HIGH,IS THAT CORRECT???

Thanks for the mod, skyfox66. Being in America among the holdouts, I am of course still using degrees F. After days of struggling and searching I finally got this combination of parts and code to work right. (After I found this website).

I connected the LCD and the DHT11 and copied and pasted the code. It uploaded and then I look at my LCD and all I see are white boxes on the top of the display. Can anyone help me?

I copied this exactly and got it to display temperature and humidity, but it flashes -999 for temp and -999 for humidity every other second. For example, it will display correct readings for one second, then the -999 for both readings the next second.. Flashing between the two. Any ideas why it might be doing this. I have been playing with the code, rechecking pins, etc, but I cant seem to pinpoint the problem. Any input is appreciated.

hello, i need some help, i want code for, if i m sending message from mobile (e.g. ABC) to arduino via gsm module then the values of temperature and humidity receiving specific number

I have arn Arduino y module that I am using to trgger an extractor fan in a shower. I was wondering whether this humidity sensor could be used to simply close the 5v circuit so teh fan runs on until teh humidity is below a set vaue. Is that possible simply?

Hi.recently i conduct sensor circuitry.in source code,i notice that it use \xF8 to display temperature in degree celcius.what is the function of that?

I followed the instructions exactly, wiring was good, code was an exact replica of that given. Everything was correct, but I got -999 error message every time. I was using a three pin sensor, triple checked my wiring against the diagram. I increased the delay time to 3000ms. I was definitely using the correct older version of the library. After throwing out the sensor thinking it faulty, I have since discovered that the diagram above is does not apply to every dht11, that there are some where the pins are in a different order.

What does this mean? in every other arduino program I can find that uses additional libraries, the library is called first, then the code goes straight on to initialising the variables and describing the setup. I have not been able to find any other mention of the library name mentioned twice like this. A few people have asked about this, with no answers given. I cant even search for it because I dont know what to search by.

Awesome website – every content is superb – We have a huge collection of branded Electronics product please have a look here https://webearnorg.blogspot.com/2018/05/electronics-supply-stores-near-me.html

Clear, informative and knowledgeable. Moisture from the air collects on the film and causes changes in the voltage levels between the two plates. This change is then converted into a digital measurement of the air’s relative humidity after taking the air temperature into account.

You will get 100% humidity if you put the sensor in water and it works. Use an SHT31-D breakout board to detect humidity and temperature. I’m sure you didn’t mean you are going to submerge the sensor. The SHT31-D is more accurate and easier to install and costs about the same as the DHT11 /22 both of which really aren’t accurate at all.

i have changed the sensor, checked voltages at each junction,switched pull up resistor, included the exact library available here but couldn’t get the accurate result,

Ine is set up exactly as you show. I get -999.00 for both humidity and temperature. I have 2 different sensors (both DHT11) and I get the same readings. I even set this up on an RPI 3B+ and the readings were similar. 1.0 temp and humidity. What am I doing wrong?

I’m a bit new to audrino and i started my first project. I found that this tutorial was the most comprehensive out there, which is awesome. One thing that i’m running into a bit of issue on is that im an “400 invalid_request” while attempting to import the DTH library. I was wondering if you could provide a little assistance to get pass this issue. Please see the full error message below.

I’m wondering if there’s a way to have this working intermittently? I want to moderate the humidity levels in food containers to prevent mould. If this was running off a battery would it last long enough?

I can not keep my display from blinking the temp and humidity values. It displays the value but blinks back and forth to -999.00. Thanks for the help I’m new

Your so awesome dude. I owe you a lot! Thanks for the tutorial dude. you’d help many people. keep going! God bless more power. Im from philippines ^_^

Still getting -999.00 on both temperature and humidity with LCD. If I connects ONLY DTH11 to Arduino with serial monitor it works fine, BUT if I connect it to LCD as described above it shows -999.00 In both LCD and serial monitor. It looks like it disables the DTH11 when connected to LCD. It does not work with dely(2000); or any other value.

i don’t know why but the LCD shows me white circles and within them the text is written also the temp and humidity are a constant 0 even with the serial monitor

It’s good idea for projects. I am thinking of building my own weather unit soon. Please can someone help me with a simulation circuit that will show the response graphs of dht11 for temperature and humidity

How would you configure Celsius to Fahrenheit when doing the LCD version? I read others commenting how with out the LCD but not with the code for using the LCD.

I’m looking to couple this humidity sensor with a 5V relay to actuate a small on/off valve depending on the humidity level. Essentially, I’d like valve to open when the humidity reading from the sensor goes above, say, 75%, and closes when the reading goes below 60%. Do you have any recommendations?

I am a hobbyist and has certain experience in electronics and wish to adopt programming. So kindly some one can help me to achieve the above goal with codes and probable sketches for the connections.Hope to receive a reply in this respect from your side.

HELLO, thank you for the big assistance. I’d like to share to u the screenshoot of my serial monitor output… Atleast let me show how it looks like & help me to debug. Big thanks to you

You have to adjust the wait time to less to count for the fact that the sensor Only gives an output for a small amount of time so play around with that to get it to work

arduino and dht11 output to lcd module supplier

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arduino and dht11 output to lcd module supplier

In this session we will create a device that can measure the temperature and humidity in the environment and display the results in real time on a LCD screen.

Put libraries “dht11” and “LiquidCrystal_I2C” into Arduino IDE’s libraries folder. If you don’t know how to load libraries, please refer to Experiment 12 for details.

2.”break” is used to exit the switch structure. It is usually used in every case. If there is no break, the execution will continue to the next case until it sees break or the switch ends.

Once you are familiar with Arduino, you can even add network module to your controller to allow you to post the real-time data collected to an online platform like weibo or twitter.

arduino and dht11 output to lcd module supplier

Recently I started playing around with DHT11 Temperature and Humidity sensor, at that time around, I had an idea to make a small yet effective Weather Station, so in this project, we will use the DHT11 sensor from the previous tutorial and turn it into mini weather station for our desk, so follow up this tutorial to build this awesome Weather Station for yourself!

I have previously covered the very basics of Arduino Micro controllers in a video, please go through it to understand the very basics of Arduino Boards.

we will be using i2c lcd in this project, to understand its basics and working, lets refer this video of mine, which explains very basics of writing i2c code in easy steps.

DHT 11 sensor is a Temperature and Humidity sensing module, which uses NTC - i.e. negative temperature coefficient to convert the temperature into equivalent resistance change. watch the following video for more detailed Tutorial and Working of DHT11 Sensor.

for this project, we are using an i2c lcd for display and DHT 11 sensor, along with Arduino Nano, so complete this circuit, I first designed and created a PCB design according to simple connections as shown in attached pictures, using a free software tool called "Easy EDA " but I could not order the PCB due to time constrains, so I rather used a breadboard, and connected the following pins to arduino, but if you want to order the PCB, you can use the following gerber files to order the pcb / make it for yourself

In this project, I wanted a startup animation screen which would display the my Channel name and Project name, next I needed to display the data from DHT11 sensor, so I set the cursor position on my LCD according the convenience and simply dumped the Temperature and Humidity values from the Variables that hold the data from sensor on the LCD screen using lcd.print command and that’s pretty much it, you can download and read the code, it’s pretty simple and straight forward. download the code and read it for better understanding.

I firstly thought about make a 3D printed enclosure, which I designed on the Autodesk"s Fusion 360 software. well, I didn"t got this enclosure 3D printed, as I didn"t have any access to a 3D printer, I rather used a piece of cardboard, which I snipped according to CAD dimensions attached in this step and then I used a bit of Hot-Glue to mount the parts and then the box was complete

after all these steps, I simply powered the arduino nano using USB, and tested the project, once the power is connected, the project takes around 1 second to startup and initialize, once the lcd"s backlight is on, the project says Mission Critical, Weather Station for around 600 microseconds and then the second screen loads up showing the room temperature in degree Celsius (°C) unit and Humidity in percentage (%)

if you have any question or suggestion drop me a message on any of the following social media links, also if you make this similar project, don"t forget to tag me on any of the social media platform!

arduino and dht11 output to lcd module supplier

A few years back, I created a new home automation course at Santiago Canyon College in Orange, Calif. where I taught Computer Science and Robotics. I wanted to introduce my programming students to microcontrollers so they could have some fun controlling things around their home. The students never built anything like that so I came up with a couple introductory level lab projects for them to try out. I decided to make a simple "weather station" project so they could learn how to build a circuit on a breadboard, learn to program an Arduino, and how to write some code that could read multiple sensors and display the readings on a small LCD display.

The activity was the first time the class ever used electronic components. Once more, they had no idea of how to make them do something cool. It turned out to be great fun. I thought some of you might also enjoy building this. So, if this sounds like something you would like to explore for yourself, you are invited to come along with us on this adventure!

You will discover that you must have the correct Arduino libraries installed for your particular sensor. This is especially true when working with LCD displays. The one we use in this project is version 1.2 so be sure to download both the LCD and the DHT-11 temperature libraries from my websitehere. Unzip them on your desktop and copy each folder to your Documents | Arduino | Library folder. Be sure to delete any existing libraries with the same name.

I added some photos of the finished project so you can see how it is wired up. Please take your time and make sure all the connections are secure. I use a small set of needle nose pliers to help me insert resistors and wires into the breadboard. Sometimes, a new breadboards connections are very tight.

Always choose wire colors that make sense to you. Use red for power, black for ground, and another color for the output of your sensors. Be very careful when you wire up the LCD. On the connector, you must connect wires to the right place. For some reason, LCD"s even from the same manufacturer have the connector pins in different positions. Look at my comments under the LCD section below to see how I wired it. I also added a closeup photo of my connections.

Notice how I added the resistors to the breadboard and how the green and yellow wires go from the LCD connector to those resistors and THEN connect to the Arduino. The SCL & SDA pins on the LCD each need a pull--up resistor or it won"t display properly! The resistors provide a small amount of current to the LCD so the Arduino signals are interpreted correctly.

If you understand the schematic and use the photos, I feel confident you can build this. Make sure to use the libraries from my website by using the link in the previous section. Please let me know if you need some help. I will be happy to assist you. Have fun!

arduino and dht11 output to lcd module supplier

The digital temperature and humidity sensor DHT11 is a composite sensor that contains a calibrated digital signal output of temperature and humidity. The technology of a dedicated digital modules collection and the temperature and humidity sensing technology are applied to ensure that the product has high reliability and excellent long-term stability.

The sensor includes a resistive sense of wet component and an NTC temperature measurement device, and is connected with a high-performance 8-bit microcontroller.

Only three pins are available for use: VCC, GND, and DATA. The communication process begins with the DATA line sending start signals to DHT11, and DHT11 receives the signals and returns an answer signal. Then the host receives the answer signal and begins to receive 40-bit humiture data (8-bit humidity integer + 8-bit humidity decimal + 8-bit temperature integer + 8-bit temperature decimal + 8-bit checksum).

LiquidCrystal_I2C lcd(0x27,16,2); // set the LCD address to 0x27 for a 16 chars and 2 line displaydht DHT;//create a variable type of dhtconst int DHT11_PIN= 7;//Humiture sensor attach to pin7void setup()

arduino and dht11 output to lcd module supplier

This article shows how to use the SSD1306 0.96 inch I2C OLED display with the Arduino. We’ll show you some features of the OLED display, how to connect it to the Arduino board, and how to write text, draw shapes and display bitmap images. Lastly, we’ll build a project example that displays temperature and humidity readings.

The organic light-emitting diode(OLED) display that we’ll use in this tutorial is the SSD1306 model: a monocolor, 0.96-inch display with 128×64 pixels as shown in the following figure.

The model we’re using here has only four pins and communicates with the Arduino using I2C communication protocol. There are models that come with an extra RESET pin. There are also other OLED displays that communicate using SPI communication.

Because the OLED display uses I2C communication protocol, wiring is very simple. You just need to connect to the Arduino Uno I2C pins as shown in the table below.

To control the OLED display you need the adafruit_SSD1306.h and the adafruit_GFX.h libraries. Follow the next instructions to install those libraries.

After wiring the OLED display to the Arduino and installing all required libraries, you can use one example from the library to see if everything is working properly.

This is an example for our Monochrome OLEDs based on SSD1306 drivers. Pick one up today in the adafruit shop! ------> http://www.adafruit.com/category/63_98

Adafruit invests time and resources providing this open source code, please support Adafruit and open-source hardware by purchasing products from Adafruit!

Written by Limor Fried/Ladyada for Adafruit Industries, with contributions from the open source community. BSD license, check license.txt for more information All text above, and the splash screen below must be included in any redistribution.

The Adafruit library for the OLED display comes with several functions to write text. In this section, you’ll learn how to write and scroll text using the library functions.

First, you need to import the necessary libraries. The Wire library to use I2C and the Adafruit libraries to write to the display: Adafruit_GFX and Adafruit_SSD1306.

Then, you define your OLED width and height. In this example, we’re using a 128×64 OLED display. If you’re using other sizes, you can change that in the SCREEN_WIDTH, and SCREEN_HEIGHT variables.

The (-1) parameter means that your OLED display doesn’t have a RESET pin. If your OLED display does have a RESET pin, it should be connected to a GPIO. In that case, you should pass the GPIO number as a parameter.

The Adafruit GFX library allows us to use some alternate fonts besides the built-in fonts. It allows you to chose between Serif, Sans, and Mono. Each font is available in bold, italic and in different sizes.

The sizes are set by the actual font. So, the setTextSize() method doesn’t work with these fonts. The fonts are available in 9, 12, 18 and 24 point sizes and also contain 7-bit characters (ASCII codes) (described as 7b in the font name).

After specifying the font, all methods to write text will use that font. To get back to use the original font, you just need to call the setFont() method with no arguments:

To draw a pixel in the OLED display, you can use the drawPixel(x, y, color) method that accepts as arguments the x and y coordinates where the pixel appears, and color. For example:

Use the drawLine(x1, y1, x2, y2, color) method to create a line. The (x1, y1) coordinates indicate the start of the line, and the (x2, y2) coordinates indicates where the line ends. For example:

The drawRect(x, y, width, height, color) provides an easy way to draw a rectangle. The (x, y) coordinates indicate the top left corner of the rectangle. Then, you need to specify the width, height and color:

The library also provides methods to displays rectangles with round corners: drawRoundRect() and fillRoundRect(). These methods accepts the same arguments as previous methods plus the radius of the corner. For example:

To draw a circle use the drawCircle(x, y, radius, color) method. The (x,y) coordinates indicate the center of the circle. You should also pass the radius as an argument. For example:

Use the the drawTriangle(x1, y1, x2, y2, x3, y3, color) method to build a triangle. This method accepts as arguments the coordinates of each corner and the color.

The library provides an additional method that you can use with shapes or text: the invertDisplay() method. Pass true as argument to invert the colors of the screen or false to get back to the original colors.

Then, click OK. Finally, in the main menu, go to File > Convert. A new file with .c extension should be saved. That file contains the C array for the image. Open that file with a text editor, and copy the array.

Copy your array to the sketch. Then, to display the array, use the drawBitmap() method that accepts the following arguments (x, y, image array, image width, image height, rotation). The (x, y) coordinates define where the image starts to be displayed.

In this section we’ll build a project that displays temperature and humidity readings on the OLED display. We’ll get temperature and humidity using the DHT11 temperature and humidity sensor. If you’re not familiar with the DHT11 sensor, read the following article:

Note:if you’re using a module with a DHT sensor, it normally comes with only three pins. The pins should be labeled so that you know how to wire them. Additionally, many of these modules already come with an internal pull up resistor, so you don’t need to add one to the circuit.

3. After installing the DHT library from Adafruit, type “Adafruit Unified Sensor” in the search box. Scroll all the way down to find the library and install it.

The code starts by including the necessary libraries. The Wire, Adafruit_GFX and Adafruit_SSD1306 are used to interface with the OLED display. The Adafruit_Sensor and the DHT libraries are used to interface with the DHT22 or DHT11 sensors.

The (-1) parameter means that your OLED display doesn’t have a RESET pin. If your OLED display does have a RESET pin, it should be connected to a GPIO. In that case, you should pass the GPIO number as a parameter.

Then, define the DHT sensor type you’re using. If you’re using a DHT11 you don’t need to change anything on the code. If you’re using another sensor, just uncomment the sensor you’re using and comment the others.

In this case, the address of the OLED display we’re using is 0x3C. If this address doesn’t work, you can run an I2C scanner sketch to find your OLED address. You can find the I2C scanner sketch here.

The temperature and humidity are saved on the t and h variables, respectively. Reading temperature and humidity is as simple as using the readTemperature() and readHumidity() methods on the dht object.

We use the setTextSize() method to define the font size, the setCursor() sets where the text should start being displayed and the print() method is used to write something on the display.

After wiring the circuit and uploading the code, the OLED display shows the temperature and humidity readings. The sensor readings are updated every five seconds.

If your DHT sensor fails to get the readings or you get the message “Failed to read from DHT sensor”, read our DHT Troubleshooting Guide to help you solve that problem.

The OLED display provides an easy and inexpensive way to display text or graphics using an Arduino. We hope you’ve found this guide and the project example useful.

arduino and dht11 output to lcd module supplier

We have specific tutorials about DHT11, DHT22 temperature sensor and LCD. Each tutorial contains detailed information and step-by-step instructions about hardware pinout, working principle, wiring connection to ESP32, ESP32 code... Learn more about them at the following links:

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arduino and dht11 output to lcd module supplier

This Temperature&Humidity sensor provides a pre-calibrated digital output. A unique capacitive sensor element measures relative humidity and the temperature is measured by a negative temperature coefficient (NTC) thermistor. It has excellent reliability and long term stability. Please note that this sensor will not work for temperatures below 0 degree.

With the SenseCAP S2110 controller and S2100 data logger, you can easily turn the Grove into a LoRaWAN® sensor. Seeed not only helps you with prototyping but also offers you the possibility to expand your project with the SenseCAP series of robust industrial sensors.

SenseCAP S210x series industrial sensors provide an out-of-box experience for environmental sensing. Please refer to the S2101 Wireless Temperature and Humidity Sensor with higher performance and robustness for air quality monitoring. The series includes sensors for soil moisture, air temperature and humidity, light intensity, CO2, EC, and an 8-in-1 weather station. Try the latest SenseCAP S210x for your next successful industrial project.

The platforms mentioned above as supported is/are an indication of the module"s software or theoritical compatibility. We only provide software library or code examples for Arduino platform in most cases. It is not possible to provide software library / demo code for all possible MCU platforms. Hence, users have to write their own software library.

When MCU sends a trigger signal, sensor will change from low power consumption mode to active mode. After the trigger signal sensor will send a response signal back to MCU, then 40 bit collected data is sent out and a new signal collecting is trigged.(Note that the 40 bit collected data which is sent from sensor to MCU is already collected before the trigger signal comes.) One trigger signal receives one time 40 bit response data from sensor. Single-bus data is used for communication between MCU and sensor.

It costs 5ms for single time communication.The high-order bit of data sends out first. Signal Data is 40 bit, comprised of 16 bit humidity data, 16 bit temperature data and 8 bit checksum.The data format is:

Step 3. Restart the Arduino IDE. Open “ DHTtester” example via the path: File → Examples → Grove_Humidity_Temperature_Sensor-master → DHTtester. Through this demo, we can read the temperature and relative humidity information of the environment.

This Grove - Temperature&Humidity Sensor and our another product Grove-Temperature&Humidity Sensor pro are sharing this library. No matter which product you are using, make sure that you have made the definition line of the sensor of your board into effect and commented out the definition lines of other specs. For example, the sensor we used on Grove - Temperature&Humidity Sensor is DHT 11. So the definition part of the sensor spec should be:

Step 5. Open the Serial Monitor of Arduino IDE by click Tool-> Serial Monitor. Or tap the Ctrl+Shift+M key at the same time. if every thing goes well, you will get the temperature.

For step 3 you are able to connect the temperature and humidity sensor to any GPIO Port but make sure you change the command with the corresponding port number.

Step 4. Save the ArduPy-DHT.py in a location that you know. Run the following command and replace with your ArduPy-DHT.py location.

arduino and dht11 output to lcd module supplier

The DHT11 is an all-in-one temperature and humidity digital sensor that includes an internal resistive moisture measurement element and an NTC temperature measurement element and is connected to a high performance 8-bit micro-controller.

A simple external circuit connection is all that is needed to collect local temperature and humidity in real time. the DHT11 communicates with controllers such as micro-controllers using a simple single bus, requiring only one I/O port.

The sensor internal temperature and humidity data 40Bit is transmitted to the micro-controller at once, and the data is checked by means of checksum, which effectively ensures the accuracy of data transmission.

One of the most common sensors, photosensitive sensors come in a wide variety of types: phototubes, photomultiplier tubes, photo resistors, phototransistors, solar cells, infrared sensors, ultraviolet sensors, fiber optic photoelectric sensors, color sensors, CCD and CMOS image sensors, etc.

The Arduino Uno is an ATmega328P based micro-controller board. It has 14 digital input/output pins (6 of which can be used as PWM outputs), 6 analog inputs, a 16MHz ceramic resonator (CSTCE16M0V53-R0), a USB connection, a power socket, an ICSP header, and a reset button.

It contains everything you need to support your micro-controller; just connect it to your computer with a USB cable or power it with an AC adapter or battery to get started.

You can tinker with your Uno without worrying too much about doing anything wrong, and at worst you can spend a few dollars to replace the chip and start over.

We just need to add the designed UI images through menu bar options for buttons, text boxes, background images, and page logic through the host computer, then generate the configuration file, and finally download it into the display and it is ready to run.

To develop based on our STONE TFT LCD, you first need to use to an upper computer development software STONE designer, in this upper computer, all screen-related settings are carried out in this upper computer, so how to download it, click the link below to go to the official website:https://www.stoneitech.com/support/download

Select New Project, set the screen size to 1024*600, set the project name to weather, and finally select the path where the project needs to be saved, then click OK.

After the completion of the previous step, the default blue background image will be deleted first, and then you need to add the images that need to be used for this application, which are made in advance. The size of the background image needs to be the same as the actual size of the screen, that is, 1024 * 600.

First add a button control to the temperature, select “button” control, and draw the corresponding area; then in the right feature settings, set the button effect, here select page 2, that is, when the button is pressed, the corresponding area to display the effect of page 2; then select the page switch function, here select the No. 4 page, that is, when this button is pressed, the page will immediately switch to page 4, that is, the temperature display interface.

Under the temperature display interface, a text display control is needed to display the real-time temperature data passed by the Arduino, so it is necessary to add a data variable control, as shown in the following figure.

First of all, you need to set the variable address of the control, this address is very important, the data of the micro-controller can only be displayed by sending data to this address, and then set the format of the display, here choose 2 integers and 1 decimal.

If you feel that the font size of the display is too small to see clearly, you can also adjust the font size, and finally the alignment, I generally choose the center alignment, of course, there are also left-aligned, right-aligned to choose.

The STONE TFT LCD sometimes needs to control the micro-controller to achieve a two-way interaction, which is also the case here, and needs to implement the start and stop acquisition function, using the START button as an example.

Select the “return pressed key value” control, which is different from “button” and can send key values to the micro-controller so that the micro-controller can respond.

First set the key effect, here select page 2, when the key is pressed it will display the effect of page 2, here there is no need to switch pages, so select null, it should be noted that it is also necessary to set a variable address.

This variable address can not be repeated, otherwise it may appear invalid, here the variable address is set to 0x000A, also need a key value, set to 0x0002 This value will also be sent down as the key is pressed.

After setting, click compile, then insert the U disk, wait for the recognition to finish and click download to copy the project into the U disk, and plug in the display to upgrade. In this way, the whole project is finished.

Just a simple reminder, if you run into problems with your development, Stone has an official forum where you can ask technology-related questions https://forum.stoneitech.com/

arduino and dht11 output to lcd module supplier

A few years back, I created a new home automation course at Santiago Canyon College in Orange, Calif. where I taught Computer Science and Robotics. I wanted to introduce my programming students to microcontrollers so they could have some fun controlling things around their home. The students never built anything like that so I came up with a couple introductory level lab projects for them to try out. I decided to make a simple "weather station" project so they could learn how to build a circuit on a breadboard, learn to program an Arduino, and how to write some code that could read multiple sensors and display the readings on a small LCD display.

The activity was the first time the class ever used electronic components. Once more, they had no idea of how to make them do something cool. It turned out to be great fun. I thought some of you might also enjoy building this. So, if this sounds like something you would like to explore for yourself, you are invited to come along with us on this adventure!

You will discover that you must have the correct Arduino libraries installed for your particular sensor. This is especially true when working with LCD displays. The one we use in this project is version 1.2 so be sure to download both the LCD and the DHT-11 temperature libraries from my websitehere. Unzip them on your desktop and copy each folder to your Documents | Arduino | Library folder. Be sure to delete any existing libraries with the same name.

I added some photos of the finished project so you can see how it is wired up. Please take your time and make sure all the connections are secure. I use a small set of needle nose pliers to help me insert resistors and wires into the breadboard. Sometimes, a new breadboards connections are very tight.

Always choose wire colors that make sense to you. Use red for power, black for ground, and another color for the output of your sensors. Be very careful when you wire up the LCD. On the connector, you must connect wires to the right place. For some reason, LCD"s even from the same manufacturer have the connector pins in different positions. Look at my comments under the LCD section below to see how I wired it. I also added a closeup photo of my connections.

Notice how I added the resistors to the breadboard and how the green and yellow wires go from the LCD connector to those resistors and THEN connect to the Arduino. The SCL & SDA pins on the LCD each need a pull--up resistor or it won"t display properly! The resistors provide a small amount of current to the LCD so the Arduino signals are interpreted correctly.

If you understand the schematic and use the photos, I feel confident you can build this. Make sure to use the libraries from my website by using the link in the previous section. Please let me know if you need some help. I will be happy to assist you. Have fun!

arduino and dht11 output to lcd module supplier

This sensor includes a resistive element and a sense of wet NTC temperature measuring devices. It has excellent quality, fast response, anti-interference ability and high cost performance advantages.

Each DHT11 sensor features extremely accurate calibration data of humidity calibration chamber. The calibration coefficients stored in the OTP program memory, internal sensors detect signals in the process, and we should call these calibration coefficients.

The single-wire serial interface system is integrated to make it quick and easy. Qualities of small size, low power, and 20-meter signal transmission distance make it a wide applied application or even the most demanding one. Convenient connection, special packages can be provided according to users’ need.

arduino and dht11 output to lcd module supplier

Liquid Crystal displays or LCDs have been used in electronics equipment since the late 1970s.   LCD displays have the advantage of consuming very little current And they are ideal for your Arduino projects.

In this article and in the accompanying video I’ll show you how easy it is to add an LCD display to your next Arduino design. I’ll also show you a very popular Arduino Shield that has a keypad which you can use in your projects as well.

Today LCD displays are used in a variety of items from test equipment to televisions. They’re inexpensive and versatile, this makes them ideal for all sorts of designs.

LCD displays do not emit light. Instead they block the passage of light, like little windows which open and shut the let light through. The liquid crystals used inside LCD displays are sandwiched between two layers of polarized material. By changing the orientation of the liquid crystals they allow light to pass or they block the light entirely.

Because transmissive LCD displays (the type we will be using) work by blocking light they require a backlight. Several methods have been used to create back lights including electroluminescent panels and fluorescent tubes.   these days the most common form of backlight is an LED, in fact so-called LED televisions are usually just LCD screens with an LED backlight system.

Another type of LCD display, the passive-matrix display, does not require a backlight, it works using reflected light. This type of display is often found in digital watches.

The principles of liquid crystals were discovered in the late 1880s but work on Modern LCD displays did not begin until the mid-1960s. a number of patents were filed in the early 1970s and in 1973 the Sharp Corporation introduced LCD displays for calculators.

The first color LCD displays were developed in the early 1980s but production units were not commonly available until the mid-1990s. By the late 1990s LCD displays were quite common.

A number of LCD displays are available for experimenters. These low-cost monochrome displays are ideal for use with microcontrollers like the Arduino and micro computers like the Raspberry Pi.

These displays are available in a number of different configurations. The part number for the display generally relates to the number of rows and columns in the display.

Common display configurations include 16 x 2, 16 x 4 and 20 x 4.  All of these displays are used in a virtually identical fashion the only difference being the number of columns and rows they have.

The LCD1602 display module is a very popular and inexpensive LCD display.  It is available in a number of different colors such as blue yellow and green and can easily be connected to an Arduino or Raspberry Pi.

In operation data is sent down the parallel data lines for the display. There are two types of data that can be sent to the display. The first type of data are the ASCII characters which are to be displayed on the display. The other type of data are the control characters that are used to activate the various display functions.

Brightness– This is the input for the brightness control voltage, which varies between 0 and 5 volts to control the display brightness. On some modules this pin is labeled V0.

Because the LCD module uses a parallel data input it requires 8 connections to the host microcontroller for the data alone. Add that to the other control pins and it consumes a lot of connections.  On an Arduino Uno half of the I/O pins would be taken up by the display, which can be problematic if you want to use the I/O pins for other input or output devices.

In 4-wire mode the data is sent a half a byte at a time, thus requiring only 4 data connections. The upper half of the data input (D4 to D7) is used while the other pins are not connected to anything.

We will begin our experiments by hooking up the LCD1602 to an Arduino Uno and running a few of the example sketches included with the Arduino IDE.  This will allow you to get familiar with the display without needing to write any code.

We need to hookup our LCD display to our Arduino. The display can use any of the Arduino digital I/O pins as it has no special requirements, but if you hook it up as I’ve illustrated here you can run the example sketches without needing to make any modifications.

In addition to the LCD1602 display ands the Arduino Uno you will need a 10K trimpot ot potentiometer, this is used a s a brightness control for the display. You’ll also need a 220 ohm resistor to drop the voltage for the displays LED backlight.

The Arduino IDE includestheLiquidCrystallibraryand this library has a number of example sketches. I’ll go over three of them here but you can also try the other ones.

The sketch starts with a number of credits and a description of the required hardware hookup. You’ll note that this is the same hookup you just performed on your Arduino and LCD module.

We then initialize an object that we call “lcd” using the pinouts of the LCD display. If you decide to hook up your display to different pins then you’ll need to modify this section.

In the beginning of the loop we set our cursor to the first position in the second row. Note that the row numbers start with zero so the second row is row 1.

That ends the loop, so we start back at the top of the loop and repeat. The result will be a counter on the second line that counts seconds from the htime the Arduino was last reset.

Load the sketch up to your Arduino and observe your display. If you don’t see anything try adjusting the brightness control that you wired to the display.

The second example we will try isthe Scroll sketch. Scrolling is a useful technique when you can’t get your text to fit on one line of the LCD display.

In the loop the code demonstrates the use of thescrollDisplayLeftandscrollDisplayRightfunctions.  As their names imply they move the text in a left or right direction.

Finally the last counter moves the text 16 positions to the left again, which will restore it back to the center of the display. The loop then repeats itself.

Custom characters are useful when you want to display a character that is not part of the standard 127-character ASCII character set. Thi scan be useful for creating custom displays for your project.

A character on the display is formed in a 5 x 8 matrix of blocks so you need to define your custom character within that matrix. To define the character you’ll use thecreateCharfunctionof the LiquidCrystal library.  You are limited to defining a maximum of eight characters.

To usecreateCharyou first set up an array of bytes with 8 elements.  Each element in the array defines one row of the character in the 5 x 8 matrix.  You then use createCharto assign a number from 0 to 7 to that array.

The Custom Character demonstration requires one additional component to be wired to the Arduino, a potentiometer (10K or greater) wired up to deliver a variable voltage to analog input pin A0.

As with the previous sketches we examined this one starts by loading theLiquidCrystallibrary and defining an object calledlcdwith the connection information for the display.  It then moves on to define the custom characters.

Each character is defined as an array with 8 elements, the zeros and ones in the array indicate which elements in the character should be on and which ones should be off.  Five arrays are defined, although the sketch actually only used four of them.

The last two arrays,amsUpandarmsDowndefine the shape of a little “stickman”, or “stickperson” if you want to be politically correct! This is done to show how we can animate a character on the display.

Then the five custom characters are assigned a unique integer using the createChar function. Remember, you can define a maximum of eight custom characters in a sketch.

Finally the setup routine ends by printing a line to the first row of the LCD display. The line makes use of two of the custom characters, the “heart” and the “smiley”.

We begin by reading the value of the voltage on pin A0 using the ArduinoanalogReadfunction. As the Arduino has a 10-bit analog to digital converter this will result in a reading ranging from 0 to 1023.

We then use an Arduinomapfunction to convert this reading into a range from 200 to 1000. This value is then assigned to an integer calleddelayTime, which as its name implies represents a time delay period.

One thing you may have noticed about using the LCD display module with the Arduino is that it consumes a lot of connections. Even in 4-wire mode there are still a total of seven connections made to the Arduino digital I/O pins. As an Arduino Uno has only 14 digital I/O pins that’s half of them used up for the display.

In other cases you would need to resort to using some of the analog pins as digital pins or even moving up to an Arduino Mega which has many more I/O pins.

But there is another solution. Use the I2C bus adapter for the LCD display and connect using I2C.  This only consumes two I/O pins and they aren’t even part of the set of digital I/O pins.

The I2C or IIC bus is theInter Integrated Circuitbus. It was developed by Philips Semiconductors in 1982 for use in the television industry.  The idea was to allow the integrated circuits in televisions to “talk” to one another using a standard bus.

The bus has evolved to be used as an ideal method of communicating between microcontrollers, integrated circuits, sensors and micro computers.  You can use it to allow multiple Arduinos to talk to each other, to interface numerous sensors and output devices or to facilitate communications between a Raspberry Pi and one or more Arduinos.

Power– This can be either 5 Volts or 3.3 volts, depending upon the application. Note that there are many precautions that must be observed if you are interfacing a 3.3 volt and 5 volt I2C device on the same bus.

In I2C communications there is the concept of Master and Slave devices. There can be multiples of each but there can only be one Master at any given moment. In most Arduino applications one Arduino is designated Master permanently while the other Arduinos and peripherals are the Slaves.

The Master transmits the clock signal which determines how fast the data on the bus is transferred. There are several clock speeds used with the I2C bus. The original design used 100 KHz and 400 KHz clocks.  Faster rates of 3.4 MHz and higher are available on some I2C configurations.

Every device on the I2C bus has a unique address. When the Master wants to communicate with a Slave device it calls the Slaves address to initiate communications.

The I2C Adapter for the LCD display is a tiny circuit board with 16 male header pins soldered to it. These pins are meant to be connected directly to the 16-pin connection on the LCD1602 display (or onto other displays that use the same connection scheme).

The device also has a 4-pin connector for connection to the I2C bus. In addition there is a small trimpot on the board, this is the LCD display brightness control.

Most of these devices have three jumpers or solder pads to set the I2C address. This may need to be changed if you are using multiple devices on the same I2C bus or if the device conflicts with another I2C device.

Most Arduino Unos also have some dedicated pins for I2C, these are internally connected to A4 and A5 and are usually located above the 14 digital I/O pins.  Some models of the Uno have additional I2C connectors as well.

Note how much easier it is to use the I2C connection, which does not consume any of the Arduino Unos 14 digital I/O pins. Since A4 and A5 are being used for the I2C bus they can’t be used as analog inputs in this configuration.

If you don’t know the address you’ll need to find it out before you can run the sketches I’m about to show you. Fortunately there is a simple way of doing this, thanks to the great work of Nick Gammon.

Nick has written a simple I2C scanner sketch that he’s put into the public domain. It scans your I2C bus and gives you back the address of every I2C device it finds.  I’ve repeated Nick’s sketch here, it’s also in the ZIP file that you can download with all of the code for this article.

Load this sketch into your Arduino then open your serial monitor. You’ll see the I2C address of your I2C LCD display adapter. You can then make note of this address and use it in the sketches we’ll be looking at now.

In order to run the subsequent sketches you’ll need to install another library. This is theNewLiquidCrystallibrarywhich, as its name implies, is an improved version of the LiquidCrystal library packaged with your Arduino IDE.

This library includes libraries for running the I2C adapter, which is why we are going to use it. But ist also can be used as a replacement for the original LiquidCrystal library and it offers improved performance over the original.

Remember that you’ll need to know the address of your I2C adapter before you run this sketch, so if you don’t know it go back and run Nick Gammon’s I2C Scanner first.

The sketch starts by loading the ArduinoWirelibrary. This is the Arduino library that facilitates communications over I2C and it’s part of your Arduino IDE installation.

On the next line we define the connections to the LCD display module from the I2C Adapter,. Note that these are NOT the connections from the Arduino, they are the connections used by the chip on the adapter itself.

In setup we set the size of the display and then print “Hello world!” on the first line in the first position.  After a short delay we print “How are you?” on the second line.

The first demo flashes the backlight on and off four times by alternating the use of thebacklightandnobacklightfunctions.  When we are done we turn the backlight on again.

The next demo uses theautoscrollfunction to scroll some text.  We first print the text “Scroll demo – “ and then implement a counter to count from 0 to 9 while scrolling the text.

Load the sketch and run it on your Arduino. If you can’t get it to work check out the address and connection information to be sure you have it right.

In this project we will put together a digital temperature and humidity gauge.  It’s pretty accurate thanks to the use of a DHT22 tem