roland juno g lcd screen replacement free sample

2023-01-03 12:32:11

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roland juno g lcd screen replacement free sample

I haven’t seen a presentation sub-forum. I’m from Spain a have several Roland Synths like, JX8P, D50, D20, W30, U20, JV1080 and a TR8S and other many stuff. I like 80’s keyboards.

I have got a Juno G that I bought with two issues, channel R did not work (today fixed) and the well know LCD issue. Tried to fix the LCD with no replacement, the results are no stables only ¼ upper right seems to work without problems. Because is hard to find original LCD and expensive, contacted several distributors like instrumentalparts in these days say are reengineering a new one, and others here in Europe haven’t stock.

Like a vintage computer collector, I’ve seen proyects to use new hardware in old computer using raspberry and arduino translating old code from the computer to new code of the hardware to work like USB mices, keyboards, Gotek and more. I’m working in computer support but I am not a programmer arduino may be a possible final solution to this problem using it between Juno and new and more cheap LCDs or even TFTs. I’m going to explore this by myself but if there is somebody in this forum that know arduino or another kit can do this will be interesting.

roland juno g lcd screen replacement free sample

I"m considering a purchase of Juno-G with screen issue. In about 30% of cases it works ok, and the rest is some issue. First few months I"ll try using it blindly, until I get the new screen. I"ll just play different sounds without anything else. Several hundreds of patches is not easy to navigate blindly, I know. But for start I don"t need much since I’m a guitar player that needs good synth and wishes to experiment with new ideas.

Why this? This thing sounds really good to my ears and price sounds ok (200€). I don’t see that I can find this quality of sound in budget arrangers that can be found for about 250€. Seller sounds ok. He says he’s been using it at home and screen started having problems about 4 years ago. However, it was controlled from another keyboard so screen was not relevant to him. Price is therefore ok for now… but only if the screen is the only thing to fix.

So I"m counting on fixing the screen soon. I see that the screen is common issue and can be fixed. I can order new screen from some distributor (comments mention 80$). I don"t have the original receipt but I plan to buy the replacement screen so receipt is not important. Screen needs to be installed together with new firmware. I can give it to repair shop or even do it myself (I"ve done something similar). Right?

Anything else that can be wrong? Maybe there were other issues I didn’t see while searching? Can you tell anything by the serial number? Seller says it is “Made in Japan” but I don’t know if that’s relevant.

roland juno g lcd screen replacement free sample

The sonically charged Juno-G workstation just got recharged with the introduction of Version 2.0 software, adding Fantom-series audio sampling functionality that you can use along-side all the other powerful Juno-G features. Version 2.0 software is a free download. The upgrade is easy to perform and in minutes, you’ll be sampling, chopping and sequencing your new sounds.Sample audio from external sources or import audio phrases from the Juno-G’s compact flash memory.

NOTE: The update files that you download and save to your computer from the link above are enclosed in a compressed zip file. These files will need to be extracted from the zip file before you can update your machine. You can do this by using the WinZip application on your PC running Windows XP, or by using Stuffit Expander on your Macintosh (needed for OS 10.2.x or below). If you’re using Mac OS X 10.3.x or above, then you will not need Stuffit Expander.

roland juno g lcd screen replacement free sample

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roland juno g lcd screen replacement free sample

great write up on the repair! I try and do as many repairs myself as I can. Did you buy the LCD screen from Roland then? Do you know where to obtain LCD display screens? The screen on my Roland TD-20 is half blanking out and I would love to fix it myself. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thank you for the kind words. Yes, I bought the LCD screen from Roland Customer Support. Cost about 140 for the Juno-G. Took about 10 days to ship to me. There are a few third party websites that sell lcd display replacements. Try searching the google. If the TD-20 is similar to the Juno, then the replacement is definitely doable yourself. The ribbon cables made everything very easy.

Its pretty easy to replace parts and boards.just be carefull not to lose your way,write down each move and then work backward.make sure you have no static discharge,good luck!!!!!!!!

I appreciate the response but I have since found a smashed LCD with the chips I wanted to remove to try to fix the LCD I have. I haven’t tried yet – just wanted to see if it is the LCD itself or the driver chips on it that fail.

So much for replacing the LCD Display. New post coming. Don’t buy a Juno-G! The LCD display is crap. The new display I purchased went bad 4 months after replacing the other one that went bad.

Thank you! :-)Loving the Journeys you share here. :>One fuethrr request: would you please put in one of those ‘subscribe to comments’ plug-ins so that we readers could follow the conversational goodnesses? :-)I didn’t realize you’d replied to my comment until I came back just now for a different reason. :-)Have an Awesome!

Never had a D-50. Did have a RD-600 for 10 years when I used to play out. Thing was beast! Seriously, I’m really sad about the quality in the Juno-G. I can make music so fast on it, but I’m gonna get rid of it. I already know Roland products, so I want to stay in the Roland family and maybe get a Fantom, but I’m worried about the quality again.

Hi, the light in my display doesn´t turn on, i can see every thing but in the day light cause the orage light went gone, some one has repaired it?… can you tell me how, or i need to buy a display new?

Probably need to buy a new one. Before you take the keyboard to your local music store for repair, just call Roland support and describe the problem. If the problem is covered by warranty, they will fix it for free, but you will have to pay for shipping to them. They will also pay for shipping back to you.

Keith–question: given your update, and given yours and others having the same problem after swapping out the screen, would it make sense to just ship it to Roland/have an authorized Roland dealer repair it?

I think you should call them and describe the problem and ask them what they suggest. I’m unclear on which parts are under warranty, so I’m not sure if they will charge you or not. They told me to ship it to them, and if it was a problem with a part under warranty, they’d fix it and ship it back for free. Seems fair enough.

ASR-10 was the sampler I always wanted as a kid! I had a SQ1 I bough in 1990, my first workstation. I was in high school and college, so couldn’t afford to buy a ASR. The SQ1 was fun, but underpowered. I would have to output the audio to cakewalk and cut out latency delays that would occur when the sequencer was stepping through different sequences.

I’ve gone away from computer based recording last couple years. I spent too much time trying to get my computer hardware and software and interface and control surface, etc…. working. I like just switching on my keyboard and getting to work, even if the screens are a little small. I’m hoping Roland comes out with a workstation with a big fat touchscreen like the korgs have.

LCD diplay on my daughter’s 3 year old Roland E50 needs replaced. Roland said they have to ship from Japan – none in stock. Will take 4-6 weeks and cost approx $480. Any suggestions?

WOW!!! $480??? Sheesh… I know this an old post, but people still come across this so anyway, for that price you might as well just buy her a whole nother,(<—not even a real word lol), keyboard…a used GW-8 maybe…I am going to be purchasing a JUNO G within the next few hours and am glad I found this because the guy at the store said "Uh yeah dude, the screen is done" so I said "that"s fine, I"ll just buy a replacement and install it myself". now all I am trying to do is get them to lower the price just a bit to help offset the cost of the screen. The Juno G would fit right into my tiny setup since. An MPC 2000 and my mixer/recorder. the Akai MPC 2000"s are notorious for the bad screens. They will share this ironically common trait.

Hi Keith! I’ve got the same problem with my Juno-G LCD! Could you please email me how can i contact Roland support team? I live in Riga, Latvia. I’ve found their phone number only. But for me it would be better to write to them, cause my english is not so pretty to speak about the problem:) Thanks in advance!

I tried approaching ‘fortress’ Roland but it was a total brick wall – they don’t seem to be accepting any liability for Juno-G screens – which makes them pure bastards in my book!

I was concerned about removing ribbon cables and tried to do the whole thing without removing any – but this became impossible when I got to the central board. However I then realised from looking at the screens ribbon, that you simply pull the plastic ribbon from the plastic housing !!! I had tried pulling the whole housing off from the previous ribbons, and gave up because they wouldn’t come loose – I had no idea that ribbon cables attach this simply; I could easily have broken housings – call me a dummy, but I feel others may also not realise this.

Also you did not mention the mystery metal bar that falls out when you remove the case, took me a while to figure out where it went back, but quite simply, there is no need to remove the 5 bottom screws in the base (opposite the keys). Mine had double washers on them. These simply hold the metal bar in place, and can stay as part of the back casing.

I’ve had years of experience repairing PC’s but this was a slightly different ball game, a little nerve racking, especialy when it came to switch on time lol, but I would now be happy doing it again – just go real slow and careful, especialy when cutting the 2 cable ties that get in the way.

I used my camera to take photos when bits got tricky, so I could reassemble properly, this worked for me when it came to replacing the middle metal bracket to the central board – I had put it in the wrong place and it was interfering with the main ribbon cable running along the bottom half!

Sorry, me again – as a side note, the serial stamps on the back of my new screen had ‘revision C’ written on them – I hope this means it’s the revised non-breaking version, as my original screen did not have this marking.

Power fluctuation is the major cause of burning the Display.thats what many have been advising me.my juno G display was gone and got the new display but not yet fixed.i must use UPS in order to prevent burning of the Display.

Please have in mind that there are two type of UPS. The regular one which switch over to battery when the mains are gone but your equipment are powered by mains when its available and the ONLINE UPS which always supply you from the batteries even when mains is available. The ONLINE UPS gives a stable power even if the mains are flucturating or is noizy.

I upgraded my firmware and LCD worked for 3-4 days without problem. I’m in India and the service centre here is not responding. Roland US agreed to replace the LCD but shipping from here to US may cost another Juno G!

Good article. Very good. One thing that was left out is the 5-6 machine screws on the second from the bottom row of screws do not hold the keyboard together. They are used to hold a metal bracket inside the keyboard used as a stop for the keys. You do not have to remove these screws to get inside the keyboard, but you have to remove the other 50…………….

Thanks for the tutorial….just finished installing my new screen. I purchased it from Roland US. $125.00 + about $6.00 shipping. Everything is up and running.

On a thread on another website someone mentioned to be sure to ask for revision ‘C’ to the screen, as that’s the latest and greatest block of screen. Don’t know of the veracity of that statement, though.

when i press the “arpeggiator” key it also triggers the “chord memory” key. unfortunately i got this keyboard like this… there are 3 keys like this (world / orch & up/dec) what do you think it is? I have gotten new confidence on how to fix this, and i think i will try it this weekend.. but i was hoping you had some insight on what could be wrong

I had a similar display problem. My Juno-G was already once fixed and the display was replaced, and after a year the new display broke again same way as before. I opened it and noticed that it has something to do with the two ribbon cables that are not getting contact in the display unit. I warmed the ribbons gently with a soldering iron from points where they are connected to the display’s component side board. This helped for now.

At least now it has worked for some time. I guess they make some mistake in manufacturing process when attaching those cables as so many similar cases have appeared.

I’ve done it in the same way, and used desoldering-wire between the strip and the soldering-tip. My temparature was about 310°C for best results. It’s done in aprox 30 minutes.

Thank you very much. This is not just a defect as I was informed by Roland. It is nothing short of a recall. They should replace the screens for free, pay shipping both ways. It’s hard to believe that they have not stood behind this problem. On top of that the customer has to replace the screen ! I am and will have to purchase the part ,and do the corrective maintenance. It will be the last thing I ever purchase from them. Korg blows them away in sound and in customer care and service and care for their consumers. They told me they were aware of the problem, and still sent them down the assembly line. That is a recipe for failure in my estimation. The customer is still always right ! Especially if you know damn well the screens are no good and you still sell them to the people that believe in your product – or rather now know you don’t give a damn what kind of cheap crap you sell them !!!

As others have said, “Thank You!” We’ve had this issue for the last 2 years and since we bought the Juno G second hand, Roland wouldn’t fix it. However, the part was a little cheaper and prompt service got it here quickly. Tackled it tonight with very little knowledge about circuit boards and ribbons but I do know how to unscrew things and cut wire clips so I simply and methodically followed the steps. Only panic part was when I took out the lcd I didn’t really watch the orientation and I had already removed it from the other board but it was almost self evident when it went back in. Took the breath, plugged it in and Voila! Chris – Spearfish, SD July 10, 2012

I found this site 2 years ago after my screen got really whacky.It sometimes showed up and sometime was a quarter of the left upper or right lower screen.for abit it was blank.The band Im in we have a world class scarey guitarist/tech head.His friend who does repairs said if any screen shows up its most likely a connector pin…I live and play full time in PHX< az. Last saturday the temp dropped and the screen, after turning it on and off came back perfect.His key repair guide said to open up the guts and check pin connectors for screen.Chris has given a great free guide to dissassebly..try it before u screen up…. 100$….

Well it’s fall 2012, I happened to be L,A when my Juno screen went wacko, so I drove to Roland headquarters in the City of Commerce, picked up a replacement and followed Keith’s instructions. Powered up and all looks good! Here’s a hoping ….

Thank you sir for posting this. I JUST finished replacing mine. It looks like it works okay. The LCD screen I received from Roland looks like it had been used before, but it is fine.. for now. It said “REV C” on it so hopefully there won’t be an issue. The customer support rep told me that I should have it serviced by an authorized service representative “because there is a certain way that the new screens should be installed and they have that information”. We’ll see if it holds up!

Firstly, to those that say their screen looks used, there is a protective plastic coating on the front that needs to be removed before installing (be careful of fingerprints though). This should be removed in the final step before flipping over the center panel board and re-assembling. CAREFULLY remove it from the corner of the front of the LCD and peel it away. Underneath is a shiny new screen. Also, there are sometimes marker marks on the ribbon cable. This is a QC mark from the factory that builds the LCDs.

Some of the problems are caused by the jumper board (LCD connector board) behind the LCD. Its the board that is approx 1×2″ and has only 2 white connectors on it. That should be removed and/or bypassed altogether, the new LCDs have a cable that is long enough to reach the connector on the mainboard. The original LCD had a short cable, the new ones do not. It is an unnecessary bunch of interconnect now due to the new long cable and a common source of poor connections leading to the assumption that the LCD has gone bad, but has not.

Also, when the new cable is attached to the mainboard, you need to be sure that there isnt a hard bend or tension on the connector on the mainboard or cable there. If you do this the FFC cable to separate from the blue backing and you will need another LCD , or worse, the connector on the mainboard will warp and you will need to have someone replace it that is very skilled with a soldering iron. A lot of LCDs go bad, but a lot of the repeat offenders are other issues causing the LCD to go bad.

IMPORTANT! Pay attention to where the screws come from! They’re not all the same. There are machine screws, binding screws and tap-tite screws (for plastic). if you put the wrong ones in the wrong holes, you damage the threads and limit the number of times the unit can be taken apart and reassembled. This may not mean anything to you now, but when you try to sell it in a few years and it’s falling apart, or if you need service in the future and it cant be reassembled, you’ll be sorry. Tape em to a piece of paper if you have to with a pic showing their locations. Its a good practice to reassemble things correctly for longevity’s sake…and just for the sake of doing it right! DONT USE A DRILL/DRIVER to reinstall the screws. Only something low voltage that has a clutch, or manually. You can crack boards or blow out heads otherwise.

Take pictures of your steps, at least a before shot, so you know what its supposed to look like when you’re done. The more the better. Be aware of the movements and changes you are making. This isn’t hard to do, but just be smart, careful, and take notes as you go.

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Same here. I replaced my screen in 2011 and now it’s messed up again. I’m not a musician and just poke around on the keyboard from time to time. I haven’t turned the thing on more than 7 times in 2 years and now it’s hosed again. …..Not sure if the replacement display I got was rev “C” or not. I plan to take it apart again and inspect the ribbon cables. No plans to fork over another $100 or or so dollars for a new display.

I need some info please. The actual display on my Juno G is fine, but it appears that the backlight is dying. Backlight is darker on the middle and right side. Is the backlight an integral part of the display unit, or maybe accessible/replacable/fixable independent of the display unit itself. Hope I make sense and would really appreciate feedback.

Johan;The screen is,I believe self lit.I did not see any lighting array inside…..The Juno is not a good investment…..just save 10 dfollars a month and in 2 years buy a new screen …peace..

Thank you for supplementary great blog. Where else could i accumulate this compassionate of info written in such an incite full way? i have been looking for such information.

roland juno g lcd screen replacement free sample

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roland juno g lcd screen replacement free sample

A few days ago I picked up a used Roland Juno-G in nice shape from a local second hand music store for a hundred bucks. This is actually my second Juno-G as I purchased one about a year ago in mint shape with a working LCD screen. The LCD screen still works today which is great considering Juno-G LCD screens are breaking down like crazy now. It’s days are numbered though for sure. The second Juno-G had a failed LCD screen but the reason I bought it was because inside there was a Roland SRX-07 Vintage Keys expansion board. Plus there was a 512MB ram stick and a really nice soft case included. The Juno-G itself is in excellent condition with the only exception being the bad LCD screen. I felt it was a good purchase because those SRX-07 expansion boards are over $300 on Ebay now. I took out the SRX-07 board and put it in my Fantom X7.

After some research over the past few days I’ve come to the conclusion that there is absolutely no known or “consistent” fix for the LCD screen. This is unfortunate because the Juno-G has a pretty nice feature set that would have made it a nice synth to keep and use for some time. Here is a consolidated rundown of fixes that worked for some, but ultimately failed or will fail.

1. Replacement LCD Screen – So far just about everyone who has forked over money for a replacement LCD screen has experienced a 2nd, 3rd, and in some cases a 4th failure of the LCD screen. There is no way I’m going to spend $200 or so on a replacement LCD screen for the Juno-G knowing that it’s just going to break down again within months or even a year of replacement. That’s crazy! At this time there does not seem to be any known replacement LCD Screen for the Juno-G.

2. Ribbon Cable Fix – I’ve been intrigued about a ribbon cable fix that suggests the LCD cables need to be heated near the connection on the LCD PCB board. I’ve read an account from someone in Germany who fixed their LCD this way but I have yet to find any specific details to how this was done. There does seem to be an agreement among many technicians that the ribbon cables are the root of the problem, but we just don’t know where. Note that Roland is said to have replaced the two small interconnecting ribbon cables on the LCD PCB with a longer one, however, in almost every case the LCD resulted in failure. So I don’t think replacing two short cables with one long one fixed the problem at all.

3. Updating the OS to v2.0 – Contrary to what’s been written around the web, OS version 2 does absolutely NOTHING to fix the LCD issue. Do not believe otherwise. This is an absolute myth.

4. Other things that do NOT work are cleaning the synth, swapping the ribbon cables, working the job wheel or sliders in a frantic manner, powering off and then on after 5 minutes, or sprinkling pixie dust over the Juno-G.

Like a few other synths I’ve worked on, it seems the exact problem with LCD screen is still a mystery with the general public. I believe Roland knows the exact problem but of course they are not going to say a word. I’ve lived in Japan long enough to know how Japanese companies like Roland work so that’s no surprise. What is a surprise is that the Roland Juno-G is a decent synth with a lot of great functionality and features on board. Why nobody has cracked the the LCD puzzle yet is interesting. All I know is that I don’t plan to sell either of my Juno-G synths just yet. I really believe IF the LCD problem gets solved they will definitely get some attention again and could even become popular for stage performance.

Currently I have my Roland Juno-G with the LCD problem sitting on my work bench. I’m going to do my best to solve the problem because I believe the solution does not require an LCD replacement or a cable change. I really only think it requires understanding how those cables work and finding a way to attachment them in a more effective manner that improves the contact of the LCD. Perhaps there is a power supply problem, or maybe another issue, but I really do think the answer is in there somewhere.

Unless proven otherwise, as of the date of this post I absolutely see no solution at all right now for replacing or fixing the Juno-G LCD screen. Nothing out there works including the Roland repair. I would like to find out more about the “heat” or “solder” solution from the gentleman in Germany but that’s like finding a needle in a haystack. There is zero information in the Yahoo groups and the info on Roland Clan is dated at best. Other forums and blogs have bits of information here and there but nothing solid.

UPDATE #1 – It’s gone!! I stripped the second Juno-G for spare parts and then chucked the rest into the garbage bin this morning. The Roland Juno-G is a lost cause with the crappy LCD screen they installed. I would avoid this synth like the plague and stick to the Fantom series instead or later Juno series synths. Luckily I didn’t waste my money in that I got a working SRX-07 Vintage keys expansion board, nice case, 512MB memory stick, and some replacement knobs. Sayonara Roland Juno-G!!

roland juno g lcd screen replacement free sample

Yes, i noticed it on the web. it is not easy to find. if i chose the different size of the display, is there any way to swap with this ? will this be work as the original Display? (work like external display) I have attached a schematic for your further reference. the aftermarket displays got LCDCS1 - S4 . however in the diagram, they have only XLCDS1 and XLCDS2. will this be ok? I"m not much familiar with LCD electronics and really helps your reply.

roland juno g lcd screen replacement free sample

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The software upgrade adds user sampling and sample-pad triggering to the feature set, letting you expand your sound library. Using the external input, you can capture audio from a microphone, a CD/MP3 player, etc., and assign the recorded sound to a front-panel button where it can be triggered like a pad.

roland juno g lcd screen replacement free sample

Repairing electronic devices isn’t as hard as it used to be. Thanks to the internet, it’s easy to find datasheets and application notes for any standard component inside your gadget, and once you’ve found the faulty one, you simply buy a replacement from one of a million web shops — assuming you don’t end up with a fake, of course. When it comes to non-standard components, however, things get more difficult, as [dpeddi] found out when a friend asked him for help in repairing a Roland Juno-G synthesizer with a broken display.

The main issue here was the fact that the display in question was a custom design, with no replacement or documentation available. The only thing [dpeddi] could figure out from the service manual was the basic pinout, which showed a parallel interface with two lines labelled “chip select” — an indication that the display contained two separate controllers. But the exact protocol and data format was not documented, so [dpeddi] brought out his logic analyzer to try and decode the signals generated by the synthesizer.

After a bit of trial and error, he was able to figure out the protocol: it looked like the display contained two KS0713-type LCD controllers, each controlling one half of the screen. Finding a compatible replacement was still proving difficult, so [dpeddi] decided instead to decode the original signals using a microcontroller and show the picture on a modern LCD driven by SPI. After some intial experiments with an ESP32, it turned out that the task of reading two reasonably fast parallel buses and driving an even faster serial one was a bit too much for the ESP, so [dpeddi] upgraded to a Raspberry Pi Pico. This worked a treat, and thanks to a 3D-printed mounting bracket, the new display also fit snugly inside the Roland’s case.

The Pico’s code is available on [dpeddi]’s GitHub page, so if you’ve also got a dodgy display in your Juno-G you can simply download it and use it to plug in a brand-new display. However, the method of reverse-engineering an existing display protocol and translating it to that of a new one is pretty universal and should come in handy when working with any type of electronic device: say, a vintage calculator or multimeter, or even another synthesizer.

roland juno g lcd screen replacement free sample

Roland is a brand that needs no introduction. They’ve been a dominant force in the music industry for the longest time, and you can read about their history in our brand overview here.

TheJuno name might not be familiar to non-enthusiasts, but its sound is something you’ll certainly have heard before. Reel 2 Real’s I Like to Move It, of Madagascar fame, has a rolling bassline designed on theJuno-106.

The Juno synthesizers were very popular, and that success can be attributed to one thing, their price tag. Unlike the high-end Jupiter synthesizers, the Junos gave budget-savvy keyboardists access to Roland’s warm, polyphonic sounds.

2005’s Juno-D adapted to the synthesizers’ declining popularity with a redesign. Instead of offering up analogue synthesis at a cheap price, Roland took their Fantom workstation, and gave people one of the first performance-focused workstation keyboards.

The star of today’s review, the Juno-DS, continues the workstation-style design. However, the current market is filled with great digital pianos and keyboards focused around performing musicians (including Roland’s own RD-2000).

US:(What Retailer to Buy FromWhat Retailer to Buy From?As you can see, there are plenty of good places where you can buy this item. My personal favorite is Sweetwater.Being one of theoldest and most reputable music retailers in the US, it offers exceptional customer service, competitive prices, fast shipping, and overall the best experience I’ve ever had shopping for audio equipment.Many of my fellow musicians share the same opinion and regard Sweetwater as their go-to music store.)

Roland has always been on top of their game when it comes to designand build quality, and I’m glad that the same level of polish is maintained, even in their less pricey products.

The Juno-DS is primarily plastic, with a few smooth aluminum sections where the controls lie. This is consistent with the old-school Juno synthesizers released back in the early 1980s.

While dropping the Juno-DS will undoubtedly cause a few scars to show, it’s built well enough the withstand the general life of a performing musician. The build quality of the Juno-DS is solid all around, and there really isn’t much to complain about.

The Juno-DS’s controls are primarily buttons, knobs and faders. I feel that the buttons are a little bit too loud and clicky, but that’s down to personal preference.

On the other hand, the knobsandfaders are great, and have a nice bit of resistance to enable precise parameter changes. The same precise, tactile feel is also present in the large encoder knob and the square drum pads.

Mainly, I feel that the faders and knobs are a bit too close together. People with larger fingers might find it hard to turn knobs all the way in a single go.

The second section is where the backlit LCD screen and patch selection happens. The large encoder knob is precise, and you also have the necessary arrow keys to navigate through the menus.

Combined with Roland’s experience in user-interface design, I’d say most people won’t have any trouble using the Juno-DS, even without the manual. Though, I will say that navigating through effects with a lot of parameters is a bit complicated (but by no means impossible, or even necessary).

Finally, the third section is thePhrase Pad section, which is utilized to great effect. These look like typical drum pads at first, and they can indeed be used to trigger audio samples such as drum hits. However, they can also be used to mute or trigger rhythm tracks, samples and recorded parts.

Even when you’re using the Juno-DS in its default mode, these pads act as avolume preview, lighting up in increments to indicate how loud you’re playing.

There’s a lot of neat features here, and while most of them are extraneous for the typical stage player, you really can’t blame a manufacturer for adding in a few bonuses here and there.

For people used to modulation and pitch-bend wheels, this might feel a bit strange at first, but it’s really easy to fall in love with this. Just switch on a synth lead preset, and you’ll be blown away by how natural it feels to add in vibrato.

Just remember, the modulation ‘wheel’ in this case always returns to its initial position. This is a non-issue if you only want to use the keyboard as is. However, if you intend on using this as a controller for external gear or software, do remember this quirk.

The Juno-DS88 uses the fully weighted ‘Ivory Feel-G’ keyboard, which uses piano-style keys, which are also used on some of Roland’s furniture-style digital pianos.

These keys, unfortunately, do not feel as good as the premium PHA-50 keys from the Roland RD-2000. This might be a cost saving measure, but the sacrifices do change the feel.

These keys are a bit weighty for non-piano sounds, and the default velocity curve also seems to be a bit less responsive than I’d like. In the end, I found that a lighter touch sensitivity setting was preferable, and helped remedy most of my qualms.

These keys feel similar to Yamaha’s GH3 action, which is inherently quite heavy, yet those keys manage to recreate the weightiness of each press with their sounds. On the contrary, theIvory Feel-G keys feel like they’re triggering samples of lighter keys.

For what it’s worth, the keys aren’t bad. I just prefer Roland’s PHA-line of keybeds over the Ivory G. You do get a synthetic ivory feel to the white keys though, which helps if you’re someone who has sweaty hands. If you need an 88-key keyboard, try testing this out to see if the keys are to your tastes.

This is far from the realistic feel of the Ivory Feel-G keybed, but it is a surprising joy to play. Piano parts, synth leads… These keys manage to work for all the included sounds.

The velocity curve somehow feels natural, even when playing piano parts. I usually need a bit of time to get used to unweighted keys, but I adapted to these keys really fast. I’d attribute this to good velocity curve tuning, so props to Roland for that.

Naturally, you don’t expect amazing realism from unweighted keys, and that’s a factor you will need to consider when getting the Juno-DS61. I personally find myself liking the unweighted keys more, which is why I opted for this model over the Juno-DS88 for my playtest.

Again, these keys will take some getting used to, but I find their responsiveness is well worth the effort. There’s also the added benefit of this variant being more compact and much lighter, which is ideal for performers on the go.

For performance keyboards, having keys that are versatile is important, especially since you have hundreds of different sounds to work with. Either way, the Juno-DS has good keys that work well with the included sound library.

Before we get into the sounds, let’s note that the Roland Juno-DS does not have built-in speakers. You will need to have external speakers or headphones to hear what you’re playing.

The sounds are accessed from the buttons below the LCD screen, and each button covers one specific category of sounds. We’ll run through each category one by one.

It’s unfortunate that this is the first category, as it’s one of the weakest. The drum kits don’t sound bad per se, but they don’t hold a candle to the industry standard drum sounds.

Of course, you likely won’t be using these sounds through the keyboard. Instead, you’ll be utilizing these sounds through the step sequencer or the built-in rhythms. It’s nice to know that this option exists if you want.

The piano section is the default section that’s active every time you turn on the Juno-DS. This section covers the acousticconcert grands, electric pianos, and some layered tones.

Coincidentally, this keyboard relies on classic PCM samples, which is different from the typicalSuperNATURAL sound engine used in Roland digital pianos.

The default 88-key Stage Grand Piano sounds clean and never overbearing. If I had to guess, these sounds are sampled from a Yamaha. This is probably the ideal sound for most band-based contexts.

These sounds might not be the best for classical piano pieces, but if that’s what you’re looking for, you probably shouldn’t be looking at the Juno-DS.

The same sound bank also includes your cookie-cutterWurlitzers and Rhodes. As is generally the case, Roland includes great Wurlitzer sounds, which include some pleasant bite with some amplifier sounds included in.

There are also some synthesized piano sounds. These include the classic FM synths and even the classic Juno Piano sound, which are featured on countless 80s records.

All in all, this sound bank includes a ton of great sampled pianos, both acoustic andsynthetic. While some might berate the lack of the SuperNATURAL sound engine, or even theV-Piano engine, don’t worry too much.

It’s true that you can’t model your piano down to the details, but that’s not a big deal. Give a few audio demos a listen, and let the sounds do the talking, I’m sure you’ll be impressed.

This section primarily features organ sounds, and it has a dash of other key-based instruments, such as clavs, harpsichords, xylophones, and other similar instruments.

Theorgans come in a large variety of forms, and they’re really fun to play. You might be disappointed with the lack of physical drawbars at first, there are a lot of organ presets to choose from.

Also, don’t be too discouraged by the lack of rotary simulations on most presets. You can personalize your effect chains to help remedy that issue. We’ll get into that further in, but the effect chains here are really something.

There is one thing to consider when talking about the organs. If you’re using the 88-keyJuno-DS88, the heavy keys might make them less ideal for organ sounds. In this regard, the models with unweighted keys might be more ideal.

The clavs managed to impress me, though I guess that’s to be expected, considering Roland has managed to capture the dirty tonality that is necessary for rockabilly songs.

The velocity sensitivity is used to add nuance and dynamics to your playing, without being overly sensitive. Again, the customizability that the effect chains allow shows its potential here as well.

Harpsichords and other mallet-based instruments are as you’d expect. These have limited usability, but for people who require them, they are in line with other digital pianos on the market.

As someone who plays guitar on the side, I’ve never been the biggest fan of keyboard-based guitars. Most keyboardists fail to capture the basics of how real guitars work, and that comes down to the full-length keyboards.

The key to achieving this sense of realism is a combination of technique and sound. I’m glad to report that the Juno-DS nails the latter (unfortunately, skills aren’t included in the price tag).

In isolation, all these sounds manage to nail the sonic characteristics of real6-string guitars, so you’ll be fine if your song needs a replacement guitarist.

The bass subcategory is an interesting one. The expected electric bass sounds are available in different articulations, such as slap, pick and fingerstyle.

The same sound bank also covers the synthesized basses. If you intend on playing electronic dance tunes live (or even arranging EDM beats with the Phrase Pads), you’ll find some good presets to work with.

As I discussed in the intro, Roland has a long heritage in the world of synthesis. As such, most of these sounds are great starting points to work with.

There’s way too many bass presets to cover, but a few gems include the SH-101 (your standard bass sound done well), theJuno Reso bass (of Juno fame), and theTB Dist preset (for the classic TB-303 acid sound).

The strings are the main focus, and rightfully so. These sounds will mainly be used as background chord holds for songs, and for that purpose, they work great.

I personally find myself gravitating to the2nd preset (St.Strings) for general playing and layering. The default preset is a bit more intense than I want, which makes it less ideal for band-based contexts. Of course, this comes down to personal preference. Adding a touch of large-scale reverb helps these sounds come to life.

The rest of the presets cover orchestral percussion. I didn’t spend too much time on these, but I’m not one to complain about extra variety. If you need to create some atmosphere, try searching here.

There are also some random odds and ends here, such as grooves and phone sounds. I don’t think you’ll be spending a lot of time with these sounds, but I’m not going to complain about extra bonuses.

I don’t usually work with brass sounds a lot, but these are very impressive. Touch sensitivity doesn’t just control volume. Most presets include brass stabs at high velocity, which make performing with these sounds a real joy.

If you wanted to recreate the feel of classic funk records, I’d say these are well worth looking into. If you get the chance to playtest the Juno-DS, do give the 2nd preset (BreakOutBrs) a shot. You might be impressed by how responsive this sound feels.

I do hear some similarities with Roland’s Gaia synth, so these sounds are likely recreated using digital oscillators, which is a plus in my books. I also recommend toying around with thefilter envelope to personalize the sound further.

The main problem I have is the lack of realism and a sense of things sounding unnatural. Sadly, the Juno-DS doesn’t buck that trend. I’d go with strings instead if you need to fill up space.

Thankfully, thepads are excellent. Roland was one of the first companies to fully embrace polyphonic synthesizers, and as such, their synths formed the forefront of early pads.

There are a lot of great pads here, and I really do recommend using them as opposed to defaulting to strings. Even layering the pads alongside the piano can add a good bit of atmosphere.

With the synth category, you’ll find leads, sequenced synths, arpeggiated parts, and some synth-keys. This category is what many people would describe as bleeps and bloops, and I’d agree with that to a certain extent.

I feel that Roland’s pitch stick works best with synth leads, and being able to add in vibrato by moving the stick up vertically is also really fun. If you need to add a rich, versatile mono-synth to your gigging rig, the Juno-DS has you covered.

Arpeggiated sequences might be a bit less useful. Take my advice, don’t use them as is. Instead, try customizing the arpeggiator’s parameters to make each synth suit your song.

If you intend on diving into this category, remember that you have a limited degree of editing potential. While the Juno-DS isn’t a fully-featured synthesizer, you can still tailor sounds slightly.

If you’ve tried sampling in the past (or even retro-style sampling with Korg’s recent Volca Sample), you’ll know that it’s quite fun to stretch out a single sample over the entire keyboard.

This is where the Sample button comes in. You can import your custom samples onto the Juno-DS, and play around with it on the keyboard. Of course, there are aton of waveforms included onboard if you can’t be bothered with the hassle.

As much as I support creative sample use (especially with the advent of Splice Sounds), I doubt you’ll be using the Juno-DS as a real sampler. The limited customization really isn’t ideal if sound fidelity is your end goal.

If you do want to work with your own samples, I’d suggest working with performance software, such as Ableton Live through the Juno-DS’s DAW control mode instead.

If you somehow find yourself bored with the onboard voices, you can look into the sound libraries on Roland’s Axial website. These extra libraries can be loaded onto the Juno-DS by adding in some extra waveforms or presets to the mix.

At the time of writing, there are a lot of expansion packs you can load up. I would recommend checking out theEXP-09 Complete Piano Collection and the EXP-06 Studio Collection for an expanded sound library.

If you intend on playingclassical piano pieces, you can also try out theEXP-04 Concert Piano Collection. This gives you a more ‘natural’ style of piano, giving a wider, less sterile sound that feels a bit more suited for classical songs.

The nice thing about the Axial sound repository is the auditioning. You can test out each expansion pack through Soundcloud links. This is a quick way of identifying the sound libraries worth downloading. Do test things out.

You may wonder how it is possible to have 32, 64, or even 128 notes playing at the same time, if there are only 88 keys and we never play them all at once.

Furthermore, using the sustain pedal, sound effects (Reverb, Chorus), dual-mode (layering),and even the metronome ticking sound takes up additional notes of polyphony.

For example, when you depress the sustain pedal, the

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