bayite dc 6.5 100v 0 100a lcd display manufacturer

Now that the accumulated energy has exceeded 9999Wh, it now only displays in kWh. So I am seeing only 10kWh, not even 10.1. Makes it worthless for monitoring my solar panel current production output on a daily bases.

The screen on the unit I bought begins to flash on and off when the voltage exceeds 90VDC. I have four solar panels with Vmax open circuit of 24.5VDC in series. When I watch the meter, as soon as the solar array output goes over 90VDC, the unit display starts to flash.

I have been using these bayite meters for almost three years now, not only in my travel trailer, but in my shed solar setup. The CHARGE and DISCHARGE meters in my photos are my original meters purchased in April 2019 and the SOLAR and INVERTER meters are the newer models ordered in April 2022. The only differences I can discern is the button on the front. The older meters had a recessed button and you needed a pen or pin to press it, whereas the newer model has a low profile button but can easily be pressed with just a finger, no device needed.The picture attached is before I upgraded the system: 10A controller with 200W solar array (upgrading to a 30A and 300W next) and these pictures were taken under partial tree shade in the late afternoon sun. The TT is running a 2000W modified sine wave inverter off a 385AH flooded lead acid battery bank, which powers mostly a residential mini fridge in the TT outside kitchen, wired through a 120V manual transfer switch to the GFCI outlets. You can see that the INVERTER load from the fridge is about 6A, while the solar output is about 4A, which correlates to the almost 2A battery discharge (including other low current devices: RV fridge circuit board, USB outlets, display lights).This type of setup is great for monitoring and measuring the performance of your batteries and solar system and if you have enough solar available or if your inverter loads are too much. To see what your actual amp-hour draw is, divide the ENERGY output by 12 (or whatever voltage you are running) to get AH so you can size your battery bank appropriately. My setup needs about 186 AH max per day and I am adequate on capacity but really should add an additional 100AH (of course I should add an additional 100W of solar too, but really there isn’t a hard ceiling to the max specs, just mind your budget). I boondock occasionally, but consider myself more of a touring adventurer, meaning I drive long distances in between destinations and camp mainly overnight in the forest or dispersed. My tow vehicle provides charging power along with the solar panels to recharge my batteries and my last 24 hours yielded 166 AH used so I never get below 50% of my battery bank. The extra 100W will help with the charge too once complete.I 3D printed a couple of meter mounts in black ABS and mounted them outside of the RV’s control panel. I could have also flush mounted them for a lower profile look but I think they look pretty good the way they are now. I used some spare Cat 6 and some jacketed landscape wiring to run from the RV batteries to the control panel. I would recommend finding some type of stranded small gauge wire for ease of crimping onto ring terminals and heat shrink tubing to protect them from separating while attached. Using ring terminals is the most secure to attach to the shunts but you can use spades or bare wire too. A good option for mounting is directly attaching the shunt to the negative battery terminal or inverter post, just remember to attach ALL load negatives on the other side of the shunt to accurately capture all discharging loads on the meter. The diagram provided by bayite on this site in the manufacturer pictures show to connect the solar meter/shunt AFTER the controller, which is a correct installation if you want to know how much power the solar controller is sending to your batteries. Bayite also provides a link to a modified diagram where the solar meter/shunt (included in my review pictures) is connected BEFORE the solar controller, directly in line from the solar panels, which will provide the meter with information with how much power your solar panels are actually producing. Each wiring is correct but provides different information; the voltages will differ as connecting before the controller will show the solar panel voltage whereas connecting after will show the battery voltage.Your shunt may have cuts in them, which is completely normal as it’s how they’re calibrated. Other reviews here say they have cuts and that they are damaged, but that’s inaccurate. These meters are good displays especially for solar controllers that don’t have displays or don’t show enough information. Great product, great longevity, and great information displayed for nerd like me who like to watch the numbers go up and down as conditions change.

I have been using these bayite meters for almost three years now, not only in my travel trailer, but in my shed solar setup. The CHARGE and DISCHARGE meters in my photos are my original meters purchased in April 2019 and the SOLAR and INVERTER meters are the newer models ordered in April 2022. The only differences I can discern is the button on the front. The older meters had a recessed button and you needed a pen or pin to press it, whereas the newer model has a low profile button but can easily be pressed with just a finger, no device needed.The picture attached is before I upgraded the system: 10A controller with 200W solar array (upgrading to a 30A and 300W next) and these pictures were taken under partial tree shade in the late afternoon sun. The TT is running a 2000W modified sine wave inverter off a 385AH flooded lead acid battery bank, which powers mostly a residential mini fridge in the TT outside kitchen, wired through a 120V manual transfer switch to the GFCI outlets. You can see that the INVERTER load from the fridge is about 6A, while the solar output is about 4A, which correlates to the almost 2A battery discharge (including other low current devices: RV fridge circuit board, USB outlets, display lights).This type of setup is great for monitoring and measuring the performance of your batteries and solar system and if you have enough solar available or if your inverter loads are too much. To see what your actual amp-hour draw is, divide the ENERGY output by 12 (or whatever voltage you are running) to get AH so you can size your battery bank appropriately. My setup needs about 186 AH max per day and I am adequate on capacity but really should add an additional 100AH (of course I should add an additional 100W of solar too, but really there isn’t a hard ceiling to the max specs, just mind your budget). I boondock occasionally, but consider myself more of a touring adventurer, meaning I drive long distances in between destinations and camp mainly overnight in the forest or dispersed. My tow vehicle provides charging power along with the solar panels to recharge my batteries and my last 24 hours yielded 166 AH used so I never get below 50% of my battery bank. The extra 100W will help with the charge too once complete.I 3D printed a couple of meter mounts in black ABS and mounted them outside of the RV’s control panel. I could have also flush mounted them for a lower profile look but I think they look pretty good the way they are now. I used some spare Cat 6 and some jacketed landscape wiring to run from the RV batteries to the control panel. I would recommend finding some type of stranded small gauge wire for ease of crimping onto ring terminals and heat shrink tubing to protect them from separating while attached. Using ring terminals is the most secure to attach to the shunts but you can use spades or bare wire too. A good option for mounting is directly attaching the shunt to the negative battery terminal or inverter post, just remember to attach ALL load negatives on the other side of the shunt to accurately capture all discharging loads on the meter. The diagram provided by bayite on this site in the manufacturer pictures show to connect the solar meter/shunt AFTER the controller, which is a correct installation if you want to know how much power the solar controller is sending to your batteries. Bayite also provides a link to a modified diagram where the solar meter/shunt (included in my review pictures) is connected BEFORE the solar controller, directly in line from the solar panels, which will provide the meter with information with how much power your solar panels are actually producing. Each wiring is correct but provides different information; the voltages will differ as connecting before the controller will show the solar panel voltage whereas connecting after will show the battery voltage.Your shunt may have cuts in them, which is completely normal as it’s how they’re calibrated. Other reviews here say they have cuts and that they are damaged, but that’s inaccurate. These meters are good displays especially for solar controllers that don’t have displays or don’t show enough information. Great product, great longevity, and great information displayed for nerd like me who like to watch the numbers go up and down as conditions change.

I got an error when visiting www.wantitall.co.za/automotive/bayite-dc-6-5-100v-0-100a-lcd-display-digital-current-voltage-power-energy-meter-multimeter-ammeter-__b013pkyils.

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Some monitors come with a switch so that you can turn it on or off at your convenience. Others have an LCD screen making it easier to see the information even when it’s dark inside your RV while some monitors come with a Bluetooth function so that you can check the status of your battery from your smartphone or any Bluetooth-enabled device.

There are also other battery monitors that can be connected to your RV generator so that you can automatically use your generator once your RV battery reaches a certain level (preferably before it reaches 50%). This feature will help prolong the lifespan of your battery.

Lithium batteries are more expensive than deep cycle batteries. This is because they have a much longer lifespan which is around 5,000 cycles unlike deep cycle batteries that can only last until 400 or so cycles. These batteries are also small, lightweight, and has low maintenance to be maintained in tip top shape.

RV battery monitors come with different display screens that’ll show you the information they provide regarding your battery level. They also come in different sizes.

Check if your monitor comes with cables and fuses so that you can connect your battery shunt and voltage inputs to your display monitor. There are also some monitors that include temperature sensors to know the battery temperature and display this information in your screen.

When charging your battery, there should be an increase in voltage displayed on your voltage monitor. For example, you have a 12V battery. It is fully discharged at 10.5V so you need to charge it. You will know that it is fully charged when it reaches 12.6V to 12.8V.

Amps (A) – This is the unit of measurement used in electricity. It tells you the rate of the flow of current in or out of the battery. When you’re charging, you will see a positive number (6.0A). When you’re discharging or consuming electricity, it will show us a negative number (-6.0A).

It is recommended that you don’t let your batteries go below 12-volts when you check the LCD display. When this happens, it means that it is already 50% discharged or even below 50% of its state of charge. This can damage your batteries and would impact the number of deep cycles that they can provide.

When you’ve already bought your own RV battery monitoring system, it’s time to install it. Here are the basic steps in installing your monitor.Prepare a cable that is at least 18 inches . Make sure that it can run through the location where you’re going to install the display unit. It is recommended that you choose a location near the door for quick and easy access. You’ll need to drill and cut the cable so that it can go through your RV.

You’ll also like that this device because it is easy to install. This model is included with a separate front bezel, allowing you to choose a round or square display for the settings. You can do a rear mounting for its securing rings or a front installation using the screws included.

It is for you if you don’t want to go through the hard process of installing the battery monitor. I’d also like to commend this product because it can offers display options like current, voltage and ampere-hours consumed.

The RV battery monitor comes with a fuel gauge as well as a time-to-go display indicator. Both of these add to the ease of use of the unit that you might not be able to find in other options on the market.

Are you shopping around for a good energy meter? You might have bumped into the Bayite energy meter when reading RV battery monitor reviews. It is one of the most popular picks among camper or recreational vehicle owners because it has the basic features that make it straightforward to use.

The Bayite energy meter is with an LCD display, which can show the direct current voltage and other settings. The energy meter also works as a 4-in-1 device that works as a voltmeter, ammeter, multimeter and power energy meter. Choosing it, you will be able to maximize the value of your money because you don’t need to buy separate meters for every measurement to get.

This unit also has a large screen for displaying current, voltage, energy and active power at the same time, making it more functional than other choices on the market are.

On the downside, the energy meter is not the most durable pick around. It does not also include wires or accessories. But then, it is still a reliable pick for being affordable and having an easy to read LCD display. It can display the settings well without you having any difficulty reading it.

The Mictuning DC multimeter is suitable for everyday operation of batteries and solar system. It is dependable in measuring voltage, power, current and energy of nearly all electrical devices with a maximum power rating of 100A. That is why it is baptized as 4-in-1 multimeter.

How is the experience in using it? The good product specs and reviews testify that this model with working voltage of 6.5-100V/DC performs well. It provides 1.0 grade high precision regarding the status of the machine through its wide reading screen. And that is happening while the multimeter is consuming power on a 0.2W thrifty manner.

Aside from the basics, the Mictuning DC multimeter carries more value added functionalities. Users will appreciate that it has voltage alarm, data storage, energy reset, backlight control and option for gauging range. These facts make it perfect for some mechanical devices such as for RV batteries and voltage regulators.

The voltage alarm of this model is no ordinary alarm. It can be set and will rule the backlight as well as the voltage value to flash if the testing voltage exceeds the factory alarm value of 6-90V. Meanwhile, the automatic data storage is also designed for much convenience. It can be reset and can save the last testing information if ever the power turned off suddenly.

Users will further be delighted because Mictuning DC multimeter is constructed intentionally with bigger digital screen. Its 51x30mm LCD screen is faithfully eye-friendly which allows clear and easy perusal of data. All present in the screen are the pressing buttons for the testing figures.

To make shoppers happier, aside from a DC Digital Multimeter, the package included a 100A/75mV Current Shunt for bonus. Other brands require you to separately purchase for one while it comes for free with the Mictuning DC multimeter.

On a little disadvantage, this model can only be used limitedly. Nevertheless, Mictuning DC multimeter comes in an affordable price with multifunction features plus a free Current Shunt.

Drok battery meter is a practical choice. Why? It is because it’s a single device that is compatible to varieties of batteries and instruments with maximum power rating of 10-100V (12v/24V/36V/48V/60V/72V and 96V). It caters 12 volt lead-acid based battery by default but it is also applicable to cells that are lithium, lithium iron, Ni MH, phosphate based.

Meanwhile, its LCD screen is clear and shows flickering text font for data pop-out, which are made bigger and highlighted with neon green hue. In that sense, the information in it is readable even in the low light ambience.

However, there were only some feedbacks that they wished that the temperature display of the Drok battery meter could also be read in Fahrenheit, not just in Celsius for more convenience. Nevertheless, overall the Drok battery meter simply is one-of-a-kind for its multifunction features, stronger built and compatible to many cells and system.

A nice battery and engine must also be reciprocated with a fine battery-gauging device for safety and support. If you are looking for a quite affordable but high-performing battery meter, you might have to hear about the Utipower Multifunctional 12V LCD Battery Capacity Monitor Gauge.

It is also worth mentioning that this Utipower monitoring meter provides an LCD monitoring screen. It is an advantage, too, that the said LCD display has a Polyvinyl Chloride or PVC Screen Protector.

However, while most of the clients adore this battery meter model due to its simplicity yet super easy installation and effective service, this device has a little imperfection too. Specifically, some reviews noticed that its LCD screen has no backlight.

Still, it is a good investment because you can experience all the fantastic functionalities and safety features of the Utipower Multifunctional 12V LCD Battery Capacity Monitor Gauge for an inexpensive price.

Waterwitch best describe this voltmeter as a universal model. Most likely because it suits perfectly to many DC 12V vehicles such as on motorbikes, boat, RV car, Yacht, SUV, Travel trailer, ATV, campers and caravans.

The primary function of the said voltmeter is it allows the user to track properly the battery voltage. It religiously reports the state of the battery particularly during in full charged and discharged state. It can effortlessly facilitate power-rating range between 5V to 30V.

How it works? The Waterwitch Voltmeter simply helps the user to monitor well the voltage of the storage battery to avoid disarray caused by battery malfunctions due to inaccurate gauge of voltage and capacity. The mid indicator sends a signal if the voltage exceeds 15V especially for DC 12V and 30V for DC 24V batteries.

The BMS work with different voltages, sometimes up to 60V. It can also gauge and measure the status of batteries that include different types like NiCad, gel cell, SLA and lead acid, among other battery types.

Remember that every wire touching the battery bank is wired through a shunt, and namely, they’re the engine alternator, inverter or solar applications, to name some. The best battery monitor for RV and the shunt will work together for displaying the info you need.

Clear LCD screen is another advantage of using a battery monitor. This screen can show or display the info we need at a glance. The best models are with clear and bright displays, allowing us to check information easily and quickly. The info is displayed brightly for easy reading even in a low lighting condition.

More so, the battery monitor is easy to use once it is installed in our recreational vehicle or camper. Also, it can help us in determining the energy or power used and remaining and tell us how much power each equipment uses, percentage left, remaining time before full charge status and different battery readings. Some even have the capacity of starting the generator set when your RV battery falls before 50% of charge – not all models have this capacity.

Some monitors can also offer a way to program your battery monitoring system from the display. At the very least, you have to adjust the max battery capacity and system voltage.

There are also some models that include accessories, such as fuses and cables in the package. They’re needed to connect the battery voltage inputs and the shunt to the display monitor. On the other hand, there are some models that can also take a temperature sensor input.

The display unit will also show the battery voltage. And then, the monitor base unit is going to calculate the current that is flowing in and out over time. It adds or subtracts from the battery capacity remaining to find out the percentage available. The battery shunt’s installed close to the battery, and it is attached directly to the battery’s negative terminal.

It is why we have researched online and reviewed the best products offered by reliable brands. For your reference, a few of them include Victron, Bayite, AiLi, MICTUNING, DROK, utipower and WATERWICH.

All these things you can check because the battery monitor can also display the battery percentage. So if you would like to get these benefits and more, you can start comparing your options and choose from one of those we have featured earlier.

Prepare cable that must be 18 inches in length. This cable should run through the location of the display unit. The step needs some drilling and cutting in order for it to make through the RV.

For example, we can buy these items from RV supplies stores and electronics shops in our locality. However, the choices can be limited. It is quite understandable, though. These stores have limited spaces. They cannot display just as wide range as the products to find online like on Amazon.

It is so far the world’s most trusted marketplace where the merchants and manufacturers are display their items for sale. If you would like to get more of your spending, you might want to choose it. Amazon is also for you if you would like to get the best deals and prices. Choosing it, you can have peace of mind that you’re buying genuine products, too.

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