lcd screen peeling manufacturer

LCD displays, especially older, mature display technologies such as segment and character LCDs have a very low fallout rate; so when we receive a request to return a large number of failures, we are concerned and want to solve the problem right away.

One percent failure is cause for alarm; after some investigation we found that the delaminating of LCD polarizers (or polarizers peeling away from the glass) was a result of excessive heat being applied to the display.

LCD displays, like microprocessors, are very sensitive to excessive heat and must be protected from exposure to high temperatures for long periods of time. In order to avoid the delaminating of LCD polarizers, the only time to expose the display to high heat is when it is being attached to the PCB (Printed Circuit Board).

When soldering a LCD, try to use hand soldering. If you do wave-solder, we recommend the display not be exposed to heat in excess of 300C (572 F) and then only for a few seconds.

There are two times when a display will face this extreme environment: manufacturing of the LCD and when being soldered to a PCB. Great care must be taken to avoid damage.

The entire LCD assembly is then "baked" to cure the adhesive with the temperature of the oven and the amount of time in the oven being critical. If the temperature is excessive, or the LCDs are left in too long, the polarizer will peel away from the glass.

All completed LCDs should be 100% visually inspected to identify the delaminating of LCD polarizer issue. If there is a problem, it should be pulled from the lot as defective. It should not reach the customers manufacturing location.

LCD Displays, like most electronic components are soldered to a PCB, either by wave or hand solder. When the temperature of the solder is excessive, or the heat source is kept in contact for an extended period of time, the polarizer will begin to peel away.

If you find that during your manufacturing process the LCD will be exposed to excessive heat, it is recommended to incorporate a heat shunt and divert the excessive heat away from the adhesive and polarizer.

LCD’s are manufactured with ROHS (Restriction of Certain Hazardous Substances) or non-RoHS (Lead based) solder with each type of solder having its own unique melting point.

Lead-based solder is mainly used in aviation, military and some medical industries with a melting temperature of 180C (356F). If requested, we are able to manufacture the LCD with non-RoHS solder.

I am a very upset Samsung customer. I have always liked Samsung and now I am very disappointed. We bought our beautiful 65” 8K Samsung TV four months ago. We noticed the screen bubbling up at the top left corner. We thought we hadn’t taken the protective film off. We had it professionally hung above our mantle. It peeled off almost halfway across the tv and then the plastic film came off. It still had half of it on the screen. We were very careful when doing this. It came off so easily. There is no way a $2000 tv would be so cheaply made we thought. The tv now had pixelated lines on the side and bottom of the screen. We called Samsung and they IMMEDIATELY deemed this physical damage caused by us. They had me send a picture of the tv with my cellphone and text it to them. Five minutes later, they claim it was escalated and deemed as physical damage. Totally disgusted and upset I had no choice but to hang up and then tell my husband that they were blaming us. The next day we contacted Costco and they said it was still under the manufacturing warranty and Samsung should take care of it. We felt defeated. After working all weekend, I came home to a completely black and blinking screen. We noticed that the bottom right and top left corners were burning hot. It was literally melting. It even messed up our Roku stick. I feel vindicated knowing that we did not cause this to happen to our tv. It is something wrong with the tv. It should not melt from the inside out. Waiting to hear back from Samsung to hopefully make it right. This is a $2000 tv that we had professionally mounted for $400 only 4 months ago. I can’t imagine we are the only ones having this problem. It makes me sick thinking they don’t want to help us. They should send a technician to observe the tv in person so they can see that it is a manufacturing issue. Now we sit here with a completely broken tv blinking and melted. Come on Samsung!

Polarizer is one of the main raw materials of liquid crystal display (LCD), accounting for about 20%-30% of its manufacturing cost. However, since the manufacturing technology of polarizer has been monopolized by Japan, South Korea and other countries, there is very little information to introduce polarizer in details . Taking the polarizer for TN LCD as an example, we will explain some issues that many LCD polarizer users are very concerned about.

Polarizer is a kind of optical film with the function of generating polarized light, which is composited by multi-layer polymer materials. According to the different application in the LCD screen, it can be roughly divided into surface sheet (also called transparent sheet) and negative plate (also known as reflector plate).

It can be divided into reflective film side adhesive and seperate film side adhesive. The role of the reflective film side adhesive is to firmly bond the reflective film to the TAC film, and re-peelability is not allowed. The peeling film side adhesive is a pressure-sensitive adhesive, which determines the adhesion performance of the polarizer and the processing performance of the patch. Its performance is one of the most concerned issues for LCD polarizer users.

It is a PET (ethylene terephthalate) film coated with a silicon coating on one side. It mainly protects the pressure-sensitive adhesive layer. At the same time, its peeling force is very important for the LCD patch.

Generally, the size of the polarizer for TN-type LCDs in the market is fixed, and the direction of the absorption axis is fixed. If a polarizer with a special size and shape is provided to the LCD manufacturer, the absorption axis should be marked or stated.

The transmittance index of the polarizer can be divided into three items: single, parallel , and Crossed. It is usually measured with an integrating sphere spectrophotometer . Among them, the monomer transmittance refers to the transmittance of a single polarizer. the parallel transmittance (H0 ) refers to the transmittance of two polarizers with parallel absorption axes. And the crossed transmittance (H90) refers to the transmittance of two polarizers with crossed absorption axes. Among these three indicators, H0 and H90 affect the brightness (H 0) and contrast (H 0/H 90) of the LCD screen, which is very important for LCD manufacturers. In order to obtain a good display effect with high brightness and high contrast, it is desirable that H0 could be as high as possible and H90 be as small as possible.

The peeling force of the polarizer is further divided into three items: protective film peeling force, peeling film peeling force, and peeling force against glass substrate. The three kinds of peeling force are measured with a tensile testing machine . The peeling force of the protective film and the peeling force of the peeling film are measured in the 180° direction, and the glass substrate is in the 90°direction. For LCD manufacturers, the peeling performance of the polarizer to the glass substrate is very important. If it is difficult to peel off within a short period of time (4-6 hours) after pasting, or there is residual glue on the glass plate after peeling, the polarizer will have poor reworkability, and poor placement will cause the entire LCD screen to be scrapped. However, if the peeling force is too small, it is easy to decrease the durability and moisture resistance of the pressure-sensitive adhesive after the polarizer is laminated on the glass substrate. And the surface of the peeling film is dented, which also affects the performance of the polarizer.

The durability test of the polarizer is to peel off the peeling film and the protective film of the polarizer and attach it to the glass substrate. After defoaming under pressure, it is placed in a constant temperature and humidity box to observe the changes before and after the experiment. The foaming and peeling index is mainly to assess the durability of the adhesive, and the optical change index is to assess the durability of the PVA layer. The durability requirements of the polarizer should be determined according to the design requirements (use environment) of different types of LCD products. The imaging of LCD must rely on polarized light. All liquid crystals have two front and rear polarizers attached to the liquid crystal glass to form a total 1mm thickness LCD. If any polarizer is missing, the liquid crystal film cannot display images. The reason why the polarizer need to be replaced is that the polarizer facing the eyes of the ordinary liquid crystal display is frosted. It dissipates the surface reflection and scatter the light to increase the viewing angle of the liquid crystal display. For the projector, any scattering will cause the loss of light. The ideal state of the liquid crystal film used in the projector should be a 0 degree viewing angle. That is, when viewing the liquid crystal film from the vertical direction , there will be no light. Of course, this is impossible to achieve, but the closer the viewing angle is to 0 degree, the higher the utilization rate of light. So after replacing the frosted polarizer with a flat polarizer, the brightness of a projector on the wall will be greatly improved, probably by 50-80%, which is why the polarizer should be changed.

As stated by @XmXmaks , the bezel corner does look pretty dented.Further, the damage to the screen does appear to be the digitizer separating from the LCD and it is suspicious indeed that said damage seems to radiate from what appears to be a corner impact from a fall, evidenced by that dented bez...

Its pretty obvious, piece of the glass is a bit chipped off from the fall. Dented bezel, and small nicks on the glass itself. The phone was dropped on the bottom left corner of the device possibly on a pavement like surface and hence the damage and due to impact the screen is splitting. That"s physical damage and will be a screen replacement and possible bezel replacement through RMA and customer pays. Done.

Every iPhone LCD screen would go through 43 processes tests and elevate out 2nd first-class inspection to assure all the functions well according to our standards before logistics.

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As many people do know, Sony a55, a77 and the Nex series all had a removable factory built-in LCD protector. For those who didn’t put a new screen protector in their cameras when they bought them, the screen would soon start getting scratches and stains. Many photographers sent their cameras for repair and others tried to change the LCD, until David Kilpatrick found out that Sony was actually putting a factory built-in screen protector in their LCDs, which you could remove and then just put a brand new protector. It was a bit of a scary procedure, not because of technical difficulty, but because you had to pull the protector with considerable strength, as the glue was very strong. I did it to my a55, a77 and nex5 and it worked flawlessly.

Last week I was trying to find a 2nd hand backup a7R for my Iceland photo tour next week, and found a portuguese photographer who had one. I bought it and upon close inspection the LCD was in very bad shape, with lots of scratches and small stains all over it. I immediately remembered the good old screen protector technique and decided to do a quick research about that procedure in the a7 series. To my huge surprise I found nothing about it being possible. As a matter of fact I found the opposite, with many photographers stating the a7 series LCD was different, and it was no longer possible to peel off the LCD protector. I started getting really worried, because not only I had spent a lot of money in the camera, but also because I had no time to return it and search for a new one before my trip. I spent several hours trying to find an answer on the web, including youtube and forums, and still got no answer. People who had damaged LCDs were going through the trouble of ordering new LCDs from ebay and doing a complicate procedure to install them, some of them ending up with non working LCDs.

I checked and re-checked asking if it was really doable, and filled myself with courage and went ahead. As you can see by the images, the screen protector is fully removable, just like it used to happen with the previous Sony Cameras. I have no idea why this is not disclosed by Sony, and some people were actually advised by Sony to wipe their screens with lens wipes or to send the camera for repair! You need to apply a scary amount of strength while trying to remove the protector, and make sure you are properly grabbing the LCD with your other hand, to avoid damaging it. As you can see in the images there was a lot of residue accumulated below the built-in screen protector, and I had to spend a bit of time using Zeiss wipes to remove it, including glue residues in the LCD margins. There is still a bit more to clean, but at least I’ve finally solved it.

UPDATE: One word of caution: you should try to avoid having your LCD in such bad shape, so always make sure you put a screen protector as soon as you buy your Sony camera. If your LCD is severely scratched and/or is severely stained, then do this procedure at your own risk, knowing that it might void the camera warranty.

Slowly drag your finger to the bottom right corner without lifting. Try to move your finger slowly enough that you can count to 10 before reaching the opposite corner of the screen.

Slowly drag your finger to the bottom right corner without lifting. Try to move your finger slowly enough that you can count to 10 before reaching the opposite corner of the screen.

Under your Pixel 5 phone’s screen, at the top center, you can see a white dot. This white dot is your proximity sensor. When your proximity sensor is on, the dot shows through the display. The dot can blink or stay solid.

Your proximity sensor keeps your phone’s screen off while you hold your phone near your face during a call, when your screen is locked, and when used by certain apps. Keeping the screen off helps save battery and avoid accidental taps on the screen.

All Pixel phones have proximity sensors. Because the Pixel 5’s display goes almost to the edge, you can see the Pixel 5’s sensor under the screen. Check our Pixel 5 phone diagram.

Hi guys. After struggling with the same problem, I am happy to report the solution. You"ll need to get Locktight Epoxy Plastics, it comes in a purple label and looks like a two part syringe. Be sure to remove the screen from the phone and disassemble the metal led backing plate. Clean the old glue off as best possible and wipe the surfaces to be glued with a Q-tip soaked in rubbing alcohol to ensure clean surfaces. Apply the glue to the frame and position on glass(you don"t need a lot of glue here, don"t want it spewing everywhere). Apply pressure to the frame and be careful it doesn"t shift and dries crooked, this can easily happen as the frame is very thin. Be particularly sure to apply pressure to the top corners of the screen +frame (corners closest to the front facing camera). I used 3 empty bottle of 1800 tequila, one on each of the corners described. I used one bottle on top of my leather wallet which distributed pressure among the lower tabs of the frame. You may be able to use clothespins or a heavy txt book. Once you are sure the frame is sitting straight, Let it sit for 15-20 minutes with the weight. Wipe off residual glue with rubbing alcohol and/or small flat head screwdriver. Assemble everything and enjoy. Cheers ! No more frame separation!!!!!!! FYI this Locktight epoxy most closely remebles oem characteristics of thin and elasticity.