tft lcd with back light for psp go brands

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About products and suppliers:Alibaba.com offers 178 psp lcd display products. About 48% % of these are other game accessories, 6%% are lcd modules, and 1%% are lcd touch screen.

A wide variety of psp lcd display options are available to you, You can also choose from original manufacturer, psp lcd display,As well as from tft, ips, and tn.

I did it the hard way with a small tipped soldering iron. When I ordered the parts I had anticipated some trouble with these connectors so I ordered 3 of them to be safe and I did in fact destroy one of them in the process.

Don"t use super glue to hold it in place! The connector is a ridiculously delicate part mechanical part and you don"t want the glue to get sucked into it. Solder paste is slightly sticky and its enough to fix the part in place long enough to solder in on.

If you are using a needle to maneuver the part around or hold it down while soldering be very careful where you place the needle. In relation to the little forks that later connect to the ribbon cable a needle is huge. They interlock with the black cover and are easily bent. In the second to last microscope pic below you can see the tip of a standard sewing needle I used to clean up some leftover solder beads.

What worked best for me was to cover the pins generously with solder paste, align the part and then just heat up the trace leading to the pins one by one, never actually touching the pins.

Just recently, while I was playing a game and want to quit it, I pressed "Home" and saw that there are 2 lines with quite high contrast at the left side. *pic provided, though is draw self*

And may I know wad is the differ with TFT LCD Screen without backlight, LCD Screen with backlight and so on? I do some research of it but don"t know what type of LCD should I replace.

How about a breakout board??? You guys have had this product up since summer of "07 and back then it was "assured" that there would be some sort of breakout/dev kit... Would definitely help for prototyping....

What exactly would you want on the breakout board? Most ARM development boards that can drive an LCD already have a display installed (and don"t break out all the LCD pins to external headers anyway), so an LCD break-out board for this display would be useless.

It"s true SparkFun could see a board that mates with their FPGA breakout board (similar to what"s pictured), but that board wouldn"t be very useful unless you were using that exact same FPGA breakout board.

I think that a controller board for this lcd will be cool so we can easily control the display trough SPI or other interface(serial?)without the need of an ARM(that isn"t so easy to use).

And you want a controller with a serial interface?! Over a standard 9600 bps link, it would take almost 6 minutes (yes! MINUTES!) to draw a single frame on this thing.

An LPC2478 (from NXP) can control this display, if you"re looking for an ARM7 example. I believe some of the new ARM9 (LPC3xxx) chips from NXP also have the same LCD controller, but I have no experience with them myself (other than having a few MCUs sitting in a box somewhere).

Total lost cause. Just buy a 4.3" LCD monitor with a composite input off eBay. This product is just a "dumb" LCD. You"ll need a controller configured specifically to drive this display with the proper front/back porch timings, pixel clock, and obviously resolution.

Unfortunately, no. This is a digital screen with bare connections, and takes a lot of circuitry and knowhow to get it to function. Our Lilliput screen does have a composite (RCA) input, and is perfect for those cameras.

Is there an LED version of this? LCD"s wear out and break down to fast. I"d like to see something durable and longer lasting like an LED or an OLED version of this. Any ideas where to begin looking?

This just drives me nuts, so I"ll do little intro in LCD technology, first off, this is LED-LCD matrix, and if you actually look around, LED-LCD or CCFL-LCD(old school LCD) have identical matrix design, only difference is backlight technology, hence the name, LED. now, OLED(Organic Light Emitting Diode) is technology that makes possible making of AMOLED(Active Matrix Organic Light Emitting Diode) panels. They being made almost exclusively by Samsung, this is starting point to look at, however, it will be much more expensive, OLED"s have life span of 3-5 years, over which they will gradually reduce in brightness to around 50% of original (same thing goes to LED panels, however not that dramatic, they"d loose around 20%), however OLED retaini infinite contrast ratio (emissive matrix) and they way more sensitive to power spikes than regular LED/CCFL panels, because of the technology used. And not to mention that regular CCFL properly driven would outlast me. In any case, every peice of hardware has lifetime expectancy, and to extend it, manufacturers use built in standby features, I"d be looking in that direction, with issue you described.

How flexible are the electronics under the display? I want to cram this display in an enclosure that is as close to the size of the screen as possible, and I"m wondering if I can roll those electronics over to the back side of the LCD.

So I take it my ArduinoMega2560, with an armada of Multiplexers, and I2C I/O Expanders, will simply not be powerful enough to do anything with this awesome LCD? And at the risk of sounding moronic, I also assume there isn"t a less advanced version, that can be controlled by a Mega2560, in this 4.3" size? I have 2 of the 4.3" size touchpads, and really wanted to display data coming from the controller, as an underlay of the touchpads.

There are a lot of questions regarding tutorials and stuff -- really, this display isn"t any different to drive than any other TFT; 9 MHz pixel clock. It"s got a 2 cycle front/back porch both vertically and horizontally -- not sure what else you need to know to get it working. The datasheet is actually surprisingly helpful -- Fig 2 is all I needed to get going.

My LPC2478 drives this thing perfectly. I was worried about logic levels -- this display is only rated for 2.5V logic. But it looks like you can run the logic supply as hot as 3.3, and it still works fine.

I"m wondering if this is the LQ043T3DX02 as implied with the linked datasheet or the LQ043T1DG01 like Mouser carries? The only differences I can see are the 2V5 versus 3V3 Vcc/logic and the surface treatment used. I would prefer the 3V3 version as I would be using it with a NXP Cortex-M3 but I cannot argue with the price here and would have to step-down the voltage. I"m just hoping is all.

You can drive this with 3.3V. Read the datasheet. 2.5V nominal, but the digital supply can be 3.3V, too. Just remember to sequence the power supplies correctly -- it needs the 2.5/3.3V digital supply BEFORE the 5V supply -- and since a lot of people will be starting with a 5V supply and "working their way down" to a 2.5/3.3V supply using an LDO, you"ll want to use a power supply sequencer (something like the ADM6820) to sit between your 5V supply and this LCD.

can i use a pic24fj256da210 to control this? i might need an external frame buffer but i think it can. also that chip has 3 lcd controllers. does that mean 1 for red 1 for green and 1 for blue???

I"m also interested if 800x480 LCD could be wedged into PSP casing, and make a motherboard with FPGA, something like a portable FPGA Arcade kit. Size is not exact same but quite close.

Or is there a 720P panel this size? Seems all the buyable pocket HD video players calling themselves 720p use a 480x272 panel. :/ (Yes, I"m aware that"s a high resolution for a small size)

somewhat unrelated, but the psp (equipped with the proper homebrew software) can receive video signals and put them on-screen semi-naively, through usb. the only application that I know that is capable of using this is pspdisp: http://www.jjs.at/software/pspdisp.html

So looking at the datasheet, I see that there are 8 bits for red, green, and blue. Does this mean that you could hook up 3 8-bit ADCs to a component/vga signal and have it work?

The clock signal is obviously constant, but it"d have to be synchronized by looking at the sync pulse embedded in the component video signal. You"d also have to do some math somewhere to convert the color space of the component video signal (which is YPbPr) to RGB. And you"d still have to generate the HSYNC/VSYNC signals based on the front/back porch of the display.

That"s a lot of work to go through to end up with something that"s not going to work nearly as well as an off-the-shelf 4.3" monitor with an analog input (something you can most certainly buy off eBay).

I just ordered the LCD controller for this LCD from the link I posted above. I will receive it soon (Finland to Canada) I also ordered an LCD and a touchscreen to go with it from the author of the controller. E-Mail him if you want more info or just go to his site www.lcdinfo.com

The connector sparkfun sells is bottom contact. This means you flip the display and fold it back to see it. It also means you need top contact version of the led backlight connector as it is flipped in regards to the main connector.

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