5110 lcd module white backlight for arduino uno mega prototype pricelist

I am in the process of creating a PCB footprint for this display, but when applying the 3D model provided, the hole spacing of the display"s connector pads do not appear to be on a 0.100" grid. Is this an error in the model or are the display"s connector pins on a weird spacing? If so, what is the spacing? Any help would be much appreciated.

I would say use your best judgement. I have only looked at the reviews under the review page and they all seem fine; unfortunately, I don"t have time to comb through all +200 comments. That being said, you can check out our Technical Assistance page linked in the banner above and our returns policy. Another resource for you is the [forum]https://forum.sparkfun.com/], where you can check for what issues users had and if there was a resolution to the issue.

I had a project that needed some live data display, and looking for the cheapest low-power solution for our loggers lead me to the Nokia 5110 LCD. Once you get the backlight current under control, you can power the entire display from a digital pin, and if you use shiftout for soft SPI you can then get rid of the Reset and CS control lines. This brings the display down to any four wires you can spare on your build (incl. the power pin) and a ground line. This is much more manageable than what you see with the standard hookup guides if your mc is I/O limited like our pro-mini based loggers:

This LCD (I have the old-old kind) is absolutely my favorite. Yes, it has a board-to-glass connector that ranges from bad to abysmal, but it offers such a simple interface and so many pixels for so little money (obviously less if you buy only the panel.) Here are some clever things I"ve discovered:

Will fully operate on as little as 2.0V. That"s power (Vdd) and i/o. It can be driven at 2MHz at these speeds; in fact, the LCD will work at even lower voltages but the contrast fades quickly and your microcontroller will likely approach its lower voltage limit too.

The initialization sequence is magic. Here it is, in case you were, like me, frustrated over and over again with varying sequences that others claimed to work but they didn"t for you:

Reset/initialization can be picky - the datasheet says that the delay from power-up to reset mustn"t exceed 30ms. What I found to be the best is to set SCE low and reset high at system bootup, wait 5ms for voltages to stabilize, lower reset, delay by ~1uS (1 nop @ 8MHz will do), raise reset then send it the initialization sequence above.

The LCD will work with the chip-select pin (SCE) tied to ground. This means that if it"s the only device on the SPI bus, don"t bother framing the i/o with a chip-select pin. If the bus is shared, frame the entire transaction, not every individual byte you send to the LCD. Interestingly, the display also seems to work fine with a floating Vdd pin - it must draw sufficient power just from i/o via clamping diodes; not surprising when you consider how low-power it is.

The Vout pin: Looks like you don"t have to worry about it on this product, but the bare LCD will generate positive 6-9V on that pin. This wasn"t totally clear to me from reading the datasheet.

Magic indeed! I"m using a different approach for the RST (pull low as soon as possible, hold low for 100ms, then set high and continue) just as a matter of making sure I get a clean boot, but otherwise I end up using your init sequence verbatim. Saved me a ton of work since I"d been fighting with it for two hours.

(2) The second command byte (the 0xE0 shown above) is not arbitrary. It is 0x80, or"ed together with a 7-bit Vop value. I found my display to be somewhat sensitive to this value. At Vop=0xBF, my unit was initializing electronically, but had a blank display (or solid-black, I can"t remember now.) Anyway, I had to play with this value, and 0xB3 ended up working for me, so if you are initializing to this sequence and having trouble, try varying this parameter. The technical details of this parameter are explained in the datasheet, section 8.9, but really, you will just have to play with it.

(5) If you are using a PIC to run ths thing, and using the PIC"s USART or EUSART in a synchronous mode, be sure to note that the LCD controller expects the MSBit of each byte to be transmitted first on the serial line. The PIC 18F EUSART transmits the LSBit first. For now, I have lots of extra code space, so I"ve wasted a 256-byte section on a lookup table that reverses the bits in a byte. This way, I just write my initialization code normally, and I have a TransmitCommandByte() function that looks up every byte it sends so I don"t have to think about that.

It may be possible to compensate for the low voltage by tweaking the contrast or updating slowly, but in my testing about three years ago journeys beneath 2.0V led to the display whiting slowly out like the face of an inexperienced fighter pilot in an aerobatic manoeuvre.

Thank you! I"m not quite sure I do want an LCD yet, to be honest, I"m just considering the different options available. I"ll check out the Sharp component, thanks!

Advice for others: It took me quite a while to get this working on an ARM Cortex. Since there is no way to read from the LCD, it is very hard to know if SPI is working without doing everything perfectly. SO:

The correct fix is to delete the "\" (backslash) character in the comment for the 0x5C entry. The backslash is the "continue on next line" symbol, so the next line is not seen as part of the initializer, thus making everything following it offset by 1. Just change the "\" character to the word "backslash" and everything will be good:,{0x00, 0x7f, 0x41, 0x41, 0x00} // 5b [

The problem I had was solid black display screen. No matter the combination of bias and contrast values that I set. The unit wasn"t totally defective, because under a strong lamp light you could see the display trying to show the letters and pictures that are in the tutorial for Arduino that I got from SFE.

If the LCD module is soldered to another board and the two top screws installed and tightened carefully to pull the bow out of the module it seems to prevent (or solve) the problem.

The only real fix for this display is to redesign the metal cover with a hold-down tag in the top centre, or make it with a thicker PCB that doesn"t bow under pressure from the connector. Until that happens I won"t be buying any more.

The Arduino code works fine for me, but I can"t make any thing work with Pic. I found this code at http://www.sunbizhosting.com/~spiral/ , but can"t figure out what I"m doing wrong.

I"m using voltage dividers to supply 3V in the inputs of the LCD, because of the Arduino works in 5V. LCD Vcc and LED are powered from the 3.3V output of the Arduino. The LCD only displayed something when I used: R1=470K,R2=820K. I have tried several values to obtain 3V, but the LCD showed nothing. I don"t understand that.

You"ll want to put a command byte of 0x20 in there, after the 0x14, and before the 0x0C. This is needed to put the display back into its "basic" command set, so it will correctly recognize the 0x0C command byte that puts it into "normal" (not inverse) display mode.

I"m interfacing this LCD with ATMEGA 32. Its been more than a week that I"ve been trying to get it right. All I get is the LED dimming effect. Here is my initialization code..CE=1;

Has anyone played around with minimum and maximum SPI clock rates with this display? I know the datasheet says up to 4 Mbit/s, but assuming this display is the only thing on the particular SPI bus, what"s a good minimum clock rate before you might start to notice delay in the display refresh? I mean TVs are 60 Hz - 120Hz.

I have a similar board made by mib-instruments and bought from ebay years ago. It has been my standard spi test tool because it"s so easy to work with. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nokia-5110-LCD-84x84-dot-martix-backlight-PCB-RED-/320684678723 (specs http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k636/mib_instruments/diy/LCDC2A0SPEC.jpg)

I wanted another one so i bought the sparkfun item but it doesn"t quite work: it flickers and blackens occasionally but my graphic never shows up. Is there a bulletproof arduino sketch I could use to test it?

I almost have it working satisfactorily but I find that the bottom 1/5th of the screen does not function correctly. Sometimes it has some random blocks that are black, most of the time it is blank. I am not sure what would cause this. Is it safe to assume it is a defect on this module?

These LCD"s need cleaning. I have an average failure rate of about 15-20% on delivery. The most common problem is that the contrast is too high, and there"s constant flickering / changing of contrast compared to the other 80% of them.

The solution is fairly simple, unclip the LCD from it"s board and clean the pads on the PCB with 99% IPA. Then remove the lcd back plate and contact bar. Sometimes the contact bar is stuck fairly well to the glass, peel off carefully. Clean the contacts on the LCD glass with IPA, if any residue from the contacts is left on, rub it off carefully with IPA / tissue.

I love this little display! I wanted to be able to create images for it but nothing I saw did exactly what I wanted. So I wrote a processing sketch that creates 84x48 squares on the screen and allows you to click to turn them on or off. Also has buttons to invert, move up/down/left/right, and flip horizontally/vertically. Then, it saves the hex data to a text file to copy to your code. You can also load an image (any size, any colors) and it will scale it, convert to b/w, then put it in the rest of the program so that you can alter the pixels or move it. It isn"t perfect for every occasion but I"ve found it useful and I hope others might too. It is heavily commented so it should be easy to figure things out and change them if you want something different. http://thewanderingengineer.com/2014/07/12/nokia-5110-screen-photo-to-bitmap-converter/

Never mind, I had no problem running it at 5V directly from the Arduino with the contrast value bumped up to 45 or above. With 10K ohm resistors on the control lines as shown in the sample hookup, I get a blank screen. Also removing the backslash from the sample code got garbage characters, so I left it in.

Anyone taken these things apart yet? You know the flexible rectangular blocky thing that connects the contact pad on the board to the LCD itself? What are these called?

Got mine running last night and found two problems with the code, one of which was the backslash a couple of others have already noted. Second was that the LCDCharacter() writes two blank vertical lines, one before the character and a second after, when only one is needed. Without the extra blank you get at least one additional character on each line. I"ll probably also move the ASCII font table to PROGMEM space to save on RAM and then start to work on some big digits for a clock.

I"m using this LCD for a large Arduino UNO project, but I"m running out of SRAM memory space. I was wondering if I used PROGMEM on the LCD ASCII array if that would help. If so, does anyone know what the right code for this would be? After looking through a lot of PROGMEM examples, I"m not advance enough to really grasp everything that"s going on. Any help you can give would be a great help. Thanks in advance!

I used one of these LCDs with an Arduino to display GPS information. I wrote a few functions that can display large numbers (28 px high) if anyone is interested, this lets me display speed, heading etc. A writeup of my project is here: http://mechinations.wordpress.com/2014/04/07/gps-sailing/

These are great displays. I ran into a problem using them with the nRF24L01+ radio transciever, which requires the use of the SPI bus. If one attaches both the radio and the display MOSI and SCK pins to pins 13 and 11 as instructed in the hookup guide, the SPI traffic of the other device (in this case the nRF24L01+ radio) will prevent the display from functioning. The easy solution is to move the Nokia 5110 MOSI and SCK pins to any other digital pin. This should be made clear in the hookup guide, where it says there is no choice but to use the hardware SPI pins for the display. I found out that is not true at all. I hope his helps others with the same problem. Despite the occasional bad display these carry much more information that the comparably prices 16 x 2 LCD and use fewer pins too boot. What a deal!

It should run on 3.3V only, I found it very sensitive to the contrast value. 55 works for me, but 45 makes nothing show up. You might need to play with this value.

I was wondering if anyone had happened to convert this demo file to a library for easy use? I would love to do it myself but unfortunately I am not very good at it.

This is a great display for the money, certainly the best bang for the buck of you can live with B&W and lower res graphics. I have a lcd driver for Arduino I will post on http://www.marchdvd.com/5110 so take a look there it draws text aligned on pixels boundaries of 8 and draws lines and has invert video options.

I just started messing around with this LCD using a STM32F103 microcontroller running at 72MHz... it works great. The only problem I had, and I suspect others might have if they are using fast processors, is that you have to deliberately introduce the setup and hold time delays on the DC pin... if you don"t you will get spurious pixels written to the display. I used a delay of 10uS, although the spec says 100nS is fine.

We didn"t design or assemble this, so unfortunately, we have posted all of the files that we have available from the manufacturer above. I can get a request for a 3D model in for you if you would like though!

Just a heads up to anyone trying to run the Arduino example. Make sure you plug Vcc into the 3.3V output on the arduino board. I also had to change the line

Can someone help me edit the code in the arduino example to display readings from a sensor, I"ve looked through all of the links and searched through the Internet but I couldn"t find an example anywhere, it would really help me if someone could tell me how to do this.

Has someone already been able to get this display to work with an Arduino Due? For some reason I cannot get it to work while it does work perfectly on my Mega. Any ideas why it may not work?

Added a driver for this display to the object-oriented arduino platform; Cosa. Please find example code at https://github.com/mikaelpatel/Cosa/blob/master/examples/Drivers/CosaPCD8544/CosaPCD8544.ino and source code at https://github.com/mikaelpatel/Cosa/blob/master/Cosa/IOStream/Driver/PCD8544.hh.

This driver supports iostream output with form feed, new line and backspace. It also supports drawing of icons and histogram bars. See the example code.

I just spent the last couple hours struggling with this LCD because of something very stupid of me. I was using an atmega328p in AVR-GCC and using hardware SPI. Thinking i didn"t need MISO I hooked it to DC. The LCD worked absolutely fine until I tried to set the x and y position in the ram. It started acting weird every time I tried it. Finally I put dc to another pin and BAM NO PROBLEMS. Looking back I feel pretty stupid but hopefully this post will save someone else the same mistake. Other than that great LCD for my projects

I used the ASCII font given in the example code in one of my projects and ran across a mystifying bug. I was developing code on a PIC12F675 to drive an OLED through its SPI interface. (Yes there are enough pins and memory to do this!) I was using the HI_TECH C compiler and tried several different approaches and never could get the "]" character to display. After pulling what is left of my hair out for 2 days, I realized there was a "\" in the comment for the previous line of the ASCII font definition which caused the compiler to treat the array entry for ] as a comment! Just replace the "// 5c \" comment with "//5c backslash" and everything works! I don"t know if this effect is peculiar to the HI-TECH compiler only.

The Energia folks have an example program for this LCD and the TI Launchpad written using their Arduino style tooling. I"ve updated their example and added the ability to report back the temperature over a UART. It is a very simple hardware setup since both systems are 3.3v. http://joe.blog.freemansoft.com/2012/08/digital-thermometer-with-ti-lanchpad.html

1) There seems to be a serious issue related to contrast and/or connections between the display and the breakout board. When running "Black on White" text, the background gradually darkens to a black rectangle covering the etire display area but will revert to normal if the centre of the metal surround is squeezed towards the pcb, however, putting a sprig clip on it to keep it comoressed doesn"t seem to cure the problem, but just slows the raste at which it fails - waggle it and it comes good again.

2) I"m really struggling to find unformation on using this display with the Arduino. The example (pcdtest.pde) provided with the Adafruit libraries (Adafruit_PCD8544 and Adafruit_GFX) won"t even compile and the only library I have found that I can make any sense of using is the PCD8544 library from Google (http://code.google.com/p/pcd8544/downloads/detail?name=PCD8544-1.4.zip) and I can"t really uderstand how to do graphics with that.

I tried using the "LCDAssistant" package to create a logo from a graphic that I resized to a b&w jpg of 84x48 but every byte generated was 0x00 so that was not right. I tried fiddling with the settings (flying blind) but still got nowhere - does anybody know the settings for LCDAssistant and this display and has used it successfully?

Hi - for some reason (way above my "new to s/w" head) the code hates the \ character, even in comments. If you take out the backslash in the character definition section it works. My tweak is:

One of the things that I test regularly is a commercial item that features a 16x4 (HD44780) display. Currently I have a 20x4 on a flying lead that I plug in to determine if a display failure is down the lcd display or the main board.

Is there any way to get the 5110 Graphic Display to work with signals that were feeding to an HD44780? - if I could build that in then I would have a complete multi-testing set up in one box.

I"m very out of date hadrware-wise (I was out of electronics for 30 years) and I"m not a programmerby any stretch of the imagiation (even a relatively simple sketch takes hours eliminating the errors one by one).

I am using arduino example and while i am getting proper images and text i also get some odd horizontal flickering. It looks like several horizantal lines across the screen on the background with image/text on foreground. I tried switching to only use digital pins on my arduino leonardo but i still see this behaviour. Any ideas?

Is there mechanical documentation for this (location of mounting holes, location of screen relative to board, etc)? Yes, I can measure it but I"m lazy...

I see that this item is Out of Stock (back-order allowed). I have a embedded system I have been documenting / publishing the design for over the last month, so I would like to know if Sparkfun Plans on keeping this part and if so for how long? Is there a part you would recommend for replacement if this one is going away?

Might I suggest you (SFE) source some of the Electronic Assembly"s LCD Dog-S series. I think they would be a step up from these at a reduced price. I don"t think that they website is up to date, but their part number is LED39x41-GR.

I just got 2 of these. Haven"t had a chance to hook them up yet. But I gather that the LEDs are green. Has anyone managed to lift up the display and change the LEDs for white or other color?

I made a little font generator for the Nokia 5110 in the processing programming language (processing.org). It allows you to convert any font and any character that you can display on the screen into a list of hex codes that can be directly used in an embedded system (I"m using msp430). Just type a character and the corresponding hex codes will be in your clipboard and you can copy them into your program. It starts with an example with the chinese character for 5. It should work on any system that can run processing (e.g. mac osx).

This is because this is where the connections are on the back of the "display glass". These connections are carried down into the PCB via a small strip of that elastomeric connector material. This material works by being compressed between the two substrates (the glass and the PCB) to hold it in place and make the connections between the pads on each surface. As a result of being compressed, it puts a force "up" on the glass, and "down" onto the PCB. In this particular design, this has the result of bowing the PCB in the units I have purchased.

My thought, if I were up to me, would be to redesign the metal hold-down bracket, to have one more metal tab going down through an additional slot in the PCB, right there at the center of the top edge of the hold-down bracket. This would carry the majority of the reaction to the force exerted by the elastomeric strip, and should minimize board bowing.

I finally got around to running this LCD on my 3310 PCB. It is working fine with one minor problem. The SF 3310 display hides to first line of bytes for some reason and I had to offset everything to compensate. The 5110 doesn"t do this as behaves as expected. I haven"t heard anyone else report this so maybe my initialization code is different.

Using a 3V source, my LCD often worked OK using bias 0x14 like the other examples, but sometimes it would appear gray and faded. The fading would lessen if I touched the panel lightly with my hand for a few seconds, then let go, so maybe it"s a temperature-dependent thing?

Ack! After two days of working nicely with 0x15 bias, I reset the board today, and the LCD appeared way over-dark. I changed the bias back to 0x14 and it looks perfect. What the heck?! I think there must be some temperature-sensing or temperature-dependence going on, so the same init values may produce good-looking results one day but not the next.

If you are having problems with the black pixels in images/warping PCB, use original Nokia 5110, I happened to have one at home and it works as it should, no bad connections degrading image quality.

Does anyone know whether this can be stripped of its backing so it can be used in transmission? I would love to use this as a modulator for a laser beam. Or if someone knows a similarly cheap transmission LCD that would be fine too.

Has anyone created an eagle footprint for this? I"ll be doing so when the order arrives. Basically just the outline with mounting holes and the 8 pin header.

For those of the arduino persuasion, I wrapped some simple methods up in a library based on this arduino page http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Code/PCD8544.

Stuck. Blank LCD. Added 0x20, changed Vop to 0xB3. Guessing connections may be the issue? 3.3v for LED and VCC. GND to GND. Remainder connected to Arduino via voltage dividers. What am I doing wrong?

This is a great little lcd. When I first wired it up, the backlight was shorted (accidentally) against my 5v rail, so i got some magic smoke, and burnt to LEDs but it re-soldered the offending joints and it works very well now. Something to note: the refresh and write times are much, much slower if you use 5 volt logic. I stuck in a logic level converter and it ran at least 5x faster.

I did the same thing (see my comment above), but I still can"t seem to get anything to display. 3 of the 4 backlight LEDs still light up when I give them power, but I"m wondering what joints you re-soldered to get it to work again.

You can also use FastLCD to convert your bitmaps - google it. It outputs BASIC code, but you just search and replace &h to 0x and you"re grand. It has the added advantage of being an editor for touching up output.

I found that same 0xB3 value works just right for the two units I have. I wonder if some of the difficulties people have getting them going is from using "E0" or "BF" or some of the other values I"ve seen posted. When I first powered mine up, I got NOTHING on the screen, and I would have thought it was dead, or assumed mine had "bad connections", if I hadn"t known to play with that Vop value...

I recently obtained a virtually identical LCD from a Nokia 5160, and although its backlight LEDs are green, not white and conversely use different voltages, I had success hooking up the LEDs" Vcc pin to a PWM capable pin on the microcontroller, allowing me to control backlight intensity (I didn"t need a current limiting resistor for this either, but adding one will help reduce current drain on the controller).

Seems like the PCD8544 library does it"s own SPI bit managing and it really doesn"t like me using the SD library (also talks SPI) at the same time. I"ve made sure I"ve got all the SPI pins matching for both libraries (MISO, MOSI, Clock are the same and each device has it"s own Select), but it looks like the SD.begin() call just breaks the SPI bus for the 5110 and it becomes non-responsive. The LCD works just fine if I don"t initialize the SD library and the SD card works fine if I do initialize the SD card.

I"m pretty sure I tracked down the problem- the PCD8544 library uses software SPI while the SD library uses hardware SPI and I"m pretty sure the Arduino can"t do both over the same SPI clock/miso/mosi pins. Anyone know if this LCD will work with hardware SPI?

Hi! I"m having the same problem that you explained a lot of time ago, maybe you"ve forgotten it but, what where the changes you made to the PCD8544 library?

I accidentally (well, intentionally, but stupidly) plugged the LED backlight line directly into 5V when I first got this, and I saw (and smelled) the magic black smoke escape. I believe the black smoke only came from one of the backlight LEDs burning out, because I only notice one of them not working now. The other backlight LEDs still light up okay, but I also now seem to be having trouble getting the display to show anything. I"m just wondering if I could have messed anything else up. It seems like others have had their issues with this display, so I was hoping I maybe had something misconfigured. I"m fairly certain I have the pins assigned properly, but maybe I"ll tinker with the contrast. Any recommendations for setting the contrast value?

I"ve had issues with the LCD not showing anything intermittently. You got to make sure that all the connections are secure, and for the reset pulse, be sure to have a delay that"s 30-50 milliseconds long.

As much as I love SFE products and will continue to order from them, this is one product I would not recommend. The connection between the LCD unit itself and the carrier board is via those rubber polymer connectors. All the planets must line up properly for them to work. In this case, the carrier board was warped preventing the connection from working. You will find other such remarks in the comments area.

I"ve followed the linked-to Arduino example and I get nothing on the display. Should it just work without any other components? The link mentions a possible cap on VOUT but there"s no such pin. Googling has suggested my Duemilanove"s digital pins will be @5V but I need 3.3V?

I bought one of these that has the problem where you have to squeeze the top to make it work. Is there any way to fix it? If I take off the aluminium bezel am I in for a hard time?

After working out a messy voltage divider for all of the inputs to this guy, I figured I would share a drawing of my breadboard for anybody else who wanted a pre-done example of how to set it up:

Don"t do this. Each divider will be burning 20x the entire amount of current that the display needs to function, and the whole assembly will waste 100x the LCD"s needed power and many, many times more than even the atmega needs to run at full speed. This will kill battery life.

Either use higher resistor values, n-mosfets for level conversion (see this Sparkfun BOB for an example), or drive the whole system on 2.0V - 3.3V (don"t know how easy that is with an Arduino.)

I got this little screen for my Netduino but it just won"t work! I"ve tried everything, and even worked on it with someone who had the same screen but it won"t work. We got it all right, but it just won"t work. If anyone here gets it to work with the netduino please let me know.

Hi, I just bought this wonderful LCD but I"m having huge huge problems connecting it..could anyone please point me in the right direction? Since there are pins that aren"t metioned in the code, for example the 6 - DNK(MOSI)...

I have been running this at 5V with no problems, I have not been using the back light. Love this thing, need a few more. @ 5v mine pulls about 1ma. Not to bad.This + openlog + atmega328 @8 mhz = 10-12ma max this is so cool.

It looks like the board just has 4 white LEDs in parallel and no current limiting resistors. To drive them safely from 5V you should probably use something along the lines of at least a 22 Ohm resistor which should limit the current to 80mA (20mA per LED).

Does anyone know the diode rating and package size, also does anyone know where to get the rubber ferroius connector behind the LCD mine is defective. Has anyone come into issues with the breadboard the LCD is connected to, a few aren"t working for me.

Yes, we have noticed that the PCB was bowing and as a result the LCD now only works when we press down on the metal strip at the top. I hope that only a small number of these LCDs have this problem. We"re expecting a shipment to arrive today, I will be running more tests.

Edit: After leaving glue to dry overnight, LCD simply does not turn on anymore. All the connections are good, but absolutely nothing shows on the LCD now at all. Only the LEDs come on.

Did you get either of the LCDs to display anything, at any time? Is it possible that the connections were OK, but you were not initializing or driving them correctly? Or did they start to work at one point, and then fail at some later point?

When I originally tried to get mine working, I was seeing NOTHING on the display. Then I had to get my initialization sequence correct, and adjusted my Vop value (ultimately using a byte of 0xB3) before the screen would display anything visible at all.

Note that the backlight LED"s are soldered onto the breakout board, and have nothing to do with the circuitry of the controller and LCD. So just because the backlights are shining doesn"t tell you anything about the operability of the LCD itself.

I have two display boards that both work, but I do see the bowing along the "top" edge of the metal bracket. I haven"t taken one apart yet, but I assume this is the edge nearest the elastomeric strip, which is creating this bowing force.

It depends on the code that you are using to control the LCD. If you are using the Arduino example above, the pins are defined in the beginning of the code.

FWIW I have connected this LCD with a 5V power supply to a 5V Arduino board with no level conversion and it worked. Presumably this may reduce the lifetime of the LCD.

I am attempting to use this with a Duemilanove (ATmega328). Up til now, I have been powering it with the 3.3V line, including the LED. The datasheet for the LDC claims: "VDDmax = 5 V if LCD supply voltage is internally generated (voltage generator enabled)." The logic levels should be kept from 2.7V to 3.3V. Since the Duemilanove uses 5V logic levels, I am using a simple voltage divider on the communication line with no issues.

Normal operating parameters are found in the DC Characteristics and AC Characteristics tables. Note that in DC Characteristics, the VDD2 is listed as min 2.7V and max 3.3V. This is the manufacturer"s specification for how to run the device to its specified performance.

If you run outside this range, performance is not specified, and you"re on your own. (Maybe it won"t work at all, will work inconsistently, or maybe it will work but other specs will be off - it may draw more current, timing may be off, etc...)

The maximum logic value of 3.3 volts made me cautious of driving the LCDs at the native 5 volts of my Teensy AVR. That said, running purely off 5 volts seems to do no harm to the LCD.

For those interested, I have taken a few measurements of the current draw of the LED backlight of my LCD. As I said earlier, powering the LED with 5V external has caused permanent damage to one, perhaps two of the four LEDs. So, use the following graph at your own risk.

People have been asking what resistor to use with 3.3v. I"ve been using a 220Ohm resister to limit the current with a 3.3v supply. The voltage drop on the resistor is a little over 0.5v and the current is 2-3mA which is about right for your graph. I think this is safe for not burning the LEDs. It provides plenty of light when you need it and doesn"t drain the batteries too much.

Is there any more documentation available for the additions to the LCD? For example, the datasheet has no information (that I could find, at least) on the LED. Everything seems fine on 3.3V, but what is the current limit on the LED? (note: if it wasn"t for work, I would just mess around with it myself.)

If you want to wire up several up these to a single microcontroller, you might take advantage of my freshly GPL"d C++ driver library for PCD8544 devices. It"s templated, so you can avoid duplicating code all over the place. Here"s a picture of two PCD8544 screens running off of an ATmega328. (The screens are operating independently, even though they happen to be showing the same logo graphic in that picture.)

Here is a PicBasic Pro example for the 3310, which should be compatible with the 5110. http://www.picbasic.co.uk/forum/content.php?r=174-Using-Nokia-3310-LCD

If anyone doesn"t have experience with this LCD, take a peak at the Arduino example link above to see just how easy it is to use. If you use plain C on your AVRs, I have sample code on http://tinkerish.com.

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We have published quite a number of tutorials using different displays with the Arduino, with the most recent being the tutorial on displaying graphics on all kind of displays with Arduino. For today’s tutorial, we will look into achieving more with displays by implementing a menu based system with the Nokia 5110 LCD display and the Arduino. The menu is one of the easiest and most intuitive ways through which users interact with products that require navigation. From mobile phone to PCs, its applications are endless. Today we will explore how to add this cool feature to your Arduino project.

At the heart of today’s project is the Nokia 5110 LCD Display. The Nokia 5110 LCD is one of the most popular LCD display among makers. It was originally developed for use as a screen for cell phones and was used in lots of mobile phones during the 90’s. The display uses a low power CMOS LCD controller/driver, the PCD8544, which drives the 84×48px graphics display. In a normal state, the display consumes about 6 to 7mA which makes it quite ideal for low power devices. We have published quite a number of tutorials on this display that might help you understand how to drive such a display.

To showcase how to create the menu on a display with the Arduino, we will build a simple demo menu with three pages.  To navigate through the menu, we will use 3x push buttons. The first to scroll up, the second to scroll down and the third one to select a highlighted option. The first screen/page of the menu will serve as the home page and will host the options that open the next two screens/pages. The second page will open after the first menu option on the homepage has been selected. Users will be able to change the contrast of the display using the up and down push buttons to increase or reduce it respectively. By pressing the select button, users will be able to go back to the home page. The second option on the homepage displays the third page, where users will be able to turn the backlight of the display on/off by pressing the select item button.

Selecting the last option on the homepage does what it is labeled for, it clears all the previous settings for the contrast and backlight. This is a fun and interesting project which I believe can be very useful to anyone irrespective of your technical know-how level.

To make the schematics easy to follow, a pin map of the connection between the Arduino Uno and the Nokia 5110, which isthe major component, is shown below.

Looking at the schematics, you will see that the push buttons are connected to the Arduino without the common pull-up or pull-down resistors. This is because we will use the Arduino’s internal pull-up resistor. You can read more about using pull-up/down resistors here. If you have any challenges understanding the concept, do reach out to me via the comment section.

With the connections all done, we can now proceed to the code for the project. It might be useful to go over the entire connection one more time to ensure everything is as it should be.

To be fair, the code for today’s tutorial is a little bit complex and while I will do my best to break it down and ensure you understand the basics, it might take you building your own menu to fully grab the concept. The code for today is heavily dependent on two major libraries; The Adafruit GFX library and the Adafruit Nokia 5110 LCD Library. The Adafruit GFX library is probably one of the libraries we use the most in our tutorials. It makes it easy to display graphics and perform simple animations on supported displays. The Nokia 5110 LCD library, on the other hand, reduces the amount of work and code required to interact with the LCD.

We start the code as with other sketches by including all the libraries required for the project which in this case, are the Adafruit GFX and Nokia 5110 LCD libraries.

Next, we declare the pins to which the buttons are connected and also declare all the variables that we will use for the project. I believe the variable name provides enough insight into what each variable stands for.

Next, we write the void setup function. Here we declare all the pins to which the push buttons are connected as inputs and set digital pin 7 as output since the Light pin of the LCD is connected to it. This pin will be used to turn the backlight on/off later on.

The state of the buttons is then fed into a series of if-else statements which checks which button was pressed and which of the screens is currently being displayed to determine what action is done next. For instance, the first if statement checks if the menu is currently on page 1 and if the up button is pressed. If this is the case, it then checks the position of the menu cursor and adjusts it accordingly.

Go through the schematics one more time to ensure everything is connected as it should be, then connect the Arduino to your computer and upload the code. After a couple of seconds, you should see the menu displayed on the LCD and it should respond to the push buttons when pressed.

That’s it for today’s tutorial. Thanks for reading. While this is certainly not a project that is useful on its own, it will be a fantastic feature to add to your existing or new projects. Feel free to reach out via the comment section with your questions, suggestions, and comments on today’s tutorial. I will try to reply to them as soon as possible.

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