waterproof lcd display arduino in stock

LCD Display Modules└ LEDs, LCDs & Display Modules└ Electronic Components & Semiconductors└ Electrical Equipment & Supplies└ Business & IndustrialAll CategoriesAntiquesArtBabyBooks & MagazinesBusiness & IndustrialCameras & PhotoCell Phones & AccessoriesClothing, Shoes & AccessoriesCoins & Paper MoneyCollectiblesComputers/Tablets & NetworkingConsumer ElectronicsCraftsDolls & BearsMovies & TVEntertainment MemorabiliaGift Cards & CouponsHealth & BeautyHome & GardenJewelry & WatchesMusicMusical Instruments & GearPet SuppliesPottery & GlassReal EstateSpecialty ServicesSporting GoodsSports Mem, Cards & Fan ShopStampsTickets & ExperiencesToys & HobbiesTravelVideo Games & ConsolesEverything Else

We realize a change is not always welcomed but we feel it"s the best way to move forward. The new Workshop4 IDE supports 4 development environments, to cater for different user requirements and skill levels and the Serial environment you"ve mentioned is one of them. The Serial environment is basically a 4DGL application that uses a very simple protocol and makes the display act as a slave and it works well when the host and the display are in close proximity, i.e. both on the same application PCB or the distance of the host is within a foot or two from the display. In most cases this works real well as long as the transmission path is free of external noise. There are many high end commercial products designed by many thousands of customers using just the serial platform. If the environment is noisy or the distance between the display and the host is far apart, then why not use the Designer environment and roll out your own top notch serial protocol with many different levels of error checking? Many customers also employ this method. A good outcome for any application always starts by proper understanding of what"s required and a good feasibility study of all the factors involved. You mention you"ve used many of our displays (thank you for your support), but have you tried seeking help from our very helpful team of tech support engineers? If not, please do so, I"m sure you"ll find they"ll be able to resolve most of your problems.

Edit: I have just been informed that a user reported a crashing problem on Friday the 22nd of February, he was supplied with a Fix on Saturday the 23rd and Workshop was shipping with the fix integrated on Monday the 25th. If you are that user we apologize for any inconvenience. This problem was only limited to the Goldelox based displays and not on the Picaso.

I am to the point where I want to start making the thing fancy. Earlier I had decided that it would cost about the same or less to use an Arduino with a cheap GPS receiver to report speed than to buy a new speed indicator (The old one was all busted up), and now I am expanding on that idea. I want my little speed reporting computer to also take care of everything else onboard the boat. I am buying a 128 x 64 LCD display and want to mount it into the dash behind the steering wheel.

In the Google Drive share I put at the top I have my project files, my eagle files, and picture etc... I plan on keeping it updated as I work on my little project, but before I get more side-tracked, the question I came here for: What is the best way to weatherproof this display? A boat is constantly exposed to moisture, and it is stored outdoors, so it has to endure the cold and the hot as well. I mainly stick to freshwater, but saltwater is not out of the question. I came up with an idea of how I might do it, but I had not found any examples of how other people have done something similar before. Here is what I was thinking: plan.png - Google Drive and here is the dash: Display Location.jpg - Google Drive

I was basically going to try cutting a window through the dash (it is basically a sheet of fiberglass on top of a sheet of wood) and leaving a bit of a lip to silicone a bit of plexiglass in place, and then screw the display in from the other side (the screen is from here: 3.5 Inch TFT Color Screen Module for Arduino UNO R3 / Mega2560 - Free shipping - DealExtreme). To keep water from leaching in I would put a thin layer of silicone on the exposed wood and finish it off with a plastic box of some sort attached to the back with connectors filled with dielectric grease. It might be better to have everything in one container that slides into a hole, but I am not sure where to get/how to make something like that. Anybody here have any experience with this kind of thing?

I"m looking for an enclosure for a project that will include one of the 2x8 character LCDs from seeedstudio and should have an IR panel and battery enclosure.

but accoring to the datasheet, the internal dimension is 60mm wide and according to seeedstudio, the LCD is 58mm wide. I"m worried I"ll have trouble fitting the LCD because it"s cutting too close, or in the best case the aesthetics will suffer because the display will be too far off center (it doesn"t look centered on its own PCB).

I"m working with a similar sized LCD but it"s going behind a panel rather than in a box. I am lucky that I can make my own cutout and fit the LCD into it. I"m not real sure how I"m going to protect the LCD though - it will be exposed to the elements.

oh, by the way, I have one of the Seeed modules in my hand and I would say the LCD face is pretty well centered on the board. It"s not EXACT but no more than a couple of mm further from the backlight end of the board than the connector end.

I have the seeedstudio LCD too. It was my original request that he stock them ;). I"m thinking a few mm off will look pretty crappy in the box though.

What trouble are you having getting it to work? It"s working for me, but I had to modify the time delays in the arduino liquidcystal library (the problem was with the library, not the display). I had a horribly frustrating time where it would work once in a while, but 95% of the time would never initialize.

I am having trouble with the 60mm red-green 8x8 matrix display though. I"ve only tested by directly connecting to the LEDs, through a resistor of course, and the brightness is very, very dim.

What trouble are you having getting it to work? It"s working for me, but I had to modify the time delays in the arduino liquidcystal library (the problem was with the library, not the display). I had a horribly frustrating time where it would work once in a while, but 95% of the time would never initialize.

I would get either blank or sometimes the black character boxes showing (I now know) that it was getting power. This was the first LCD module I bought and I had not yet learned about the liquidcrystal library so i was working just from the datasheet. The problem could have been my wiring or my code. I have it out now and I"ll try it again. What timing did you have to change?

In terms of centering, I just don"t believe I could detect the offset, maybe mine is not quite the same. How are you going to make the cutout for the LCD and attach it?

it looks better now since ive taped the sides but it was impossible to cut a perfect rectangle witha dremel, nor a box cutter, so i had to sand and sand, and, ofcourse, i over sanded and ended up with huge, awkward gaps between the sides of the lcd screen and the box...

it looks better now since ive taped the sides but it was impossible to cut a perfect rectangle witha dremel, nor a box cutter, so i had to sand and sand, and, ofcourse, i over sanded and ended up with huge, awkward gaps between the sides of the lcd screen and the box...

exactly what I"ve been worrying about. I foolishly expected there would be readily available plastic/chrome bezels that would fit neatly around stock-sized LCDs, no luck yet though.

One thing I"ve used is a shadow box. It"s like a picture frame but instead of holding a flat page it"s got an internal compartment to hold and display 3D objects. I paid around $10 at a crafts store for a 5x7 with about 2 inches inside. It came with a glass front and a felt-lined pressboard back. I made all the holes in the back board.

I got a couple of sample boxes like the one below from pactec. They have a wide variety on their web site. In this case the end is separate but probably too small for the LCD and the sides of the cases just leave you with the same issue of cutting your own hole and finishing it.

If waterproofing/dustproofing is not important, you can just sandwich your project (PCB, LCD etc) between 2 sheets of acrylic, with long screws and spacers.

I"m still surprised that there aren"t more readily available LCD mounting options. In my case I need something really weatherproof because I"m mounting on an exposed motorcycle surface but I haven"t see anything that would help finish off a project.

I think it is amazing that there isn"t already on the market a simpe palstic box with rectangular holes the size of the screens on LCD"s, which are all pretty standard.

Mike, I don"t think there is a single standard. I have three 16x2 LCD panels and all require different size cutouts. My 16x1 and 16x4 panels are different sizes again.

For your weatherproof project, why not use florinc"s suggestion of a pelikan or otterbox? They"re expensive, but very weatherproof and available with clear tops for the display. For the interface if needed, you can rig up something IR so you don"t have to comprimise the weatherproofing.

I"ve seen the same need to provide enclosures for Arduino, and other DIY projects, and have started working on a couple of things. They are a few months off, so don"t really solve any problems now, but I"m trying to get a couple of manufacturers to work with me on a more modular enclosure design that would work better for the type of projects that Arduino, and other hobby projects seem to need.