128 x 64 lcd module supplier

NHD-12864AZ-FL-YBW | Monochrome Graphic Module | 128x64 Pixels | Transflective LCD | Yellow/Green Backlight | STN (+) Positive Yellow/Green Display | Non-Stocked

Newhaven 128x64 graphic Liquid Crystal Display module shows dark pixels on a bright yellow/green background. This transflective LCD Display is visible with ambient light or a backlight while offering a wide operating temperature range from -20 to 70 degrees Celsius. This NHD-12864AZ-FL-YBW display has an optimal view of 6:00, operates at 5V supply voltage and is RoHS compliant.

Easily modify any connectors on your display to meet your application’s requirements. Our engineers are able to perform soldering for pin headers, boxed headers, right angle headers, and any other connectors your display may require.

Choose from a wide selection of interface options or talk to our experts to select the best one for your project. We can incorporate HDMI, USB, SPI, VGA and more into your display to achieve your design goals.

NHD-12864WG-FTFH-VZ# | Monochrome Graphic Module | 128x64 Pixels | Transflective LCD | White Backlight | FSTN (+) Positive Display | Built-in Negative voltage | Built-in RA6963 Controller | Discontinued EOL Product

Newhaven 128x64 graphic Liquid Crystal Display module shows dark pixels on a gray background. This transflective LCD Display is visible with ambient light or a backlight while offering a wide operating temperature range from -20 to 70 degrees Celsius. This NHD-12864WG-FTFH-VZ# display includes a negative voltage and a built-in RA6963 Controller. It has an optimal view of 6:00, operates at 5V supply voltage and is RoHS compliant. This display has been discontinued. Purchase now while stock is still available!

Easily modify any connectors on your display to meet your application’s requirements. Our engineers are able to perform soldering for pin headers, boxed headers, right angle headers, and any other connectors your display may require.

Choose from a wide selection of interface options or talk to our experts to select the best one for your project. We can incorporate HDMI, USB, SPI, VGA and more into your display to achieve your design goals.

A 2.9″ monochrome, 128×64 dot matrix, COB (Chip on Board) Graphic LCD Module in STN Positive Yellow Green LCD Mode with Yellow Green LED Backlight. It has a six O’clock viewing direction and a transflective polarizer recommended for applications that will be used both indoor and outdoor. This product has negative voltage and is assembled Chip On board with 1/64 Duty and a Controller IC S6B0107 or S6B0108 or equivalent. The interface type is Parallel. This is an ROHS compliant product manufactured with ISO standards and procedures.

A 2.9″ monochrome, 128×64 dot matrix, COG (Chip on Glass) Graphic LCD Module in STN Negative Blue LCD Mode with Wide Temperature Range (Operating Temp: -20°C to 70°C, Storage Temp: -30°C to 80°C), and White LED Backlight.

It has a twelve O’clock viewing direction and a transmissive polarizer suitable for darker environment. This product is assembled chip on glass with 1/65 Duty and 1/9 Bias. 12864 COG LCD display LCD uses Controller IC ST7565P or equivalent with an option to choose between serial interface (4-line SPI) and parallel interface (6800 or 8080). This is an ROHS compliant product manufactured with ISO standards and procedures.

Also, I"m assuming that a lot of current is most likely drawn from that backlight pin so I plan on placing a transistor between the MCU and the LCD which I will drive from the MCU via PWM.

Thanks for sharing your library. I ported it to the XMEGA style and it worked except that I need to add a reset in lcd_init(). I initialized the control port with RESET low, and then I promptly set it high.

The current version of this graphic display (GDM12864H) has a unique feature that I have not seen in any other 128x64 graphic LCD. Its pixels (and pitch) are square (0.39x0.39mm) so your circles appear as circles -- no more ellipses!!!

Thanks for posting. Please explain why you have 2K ohm connected to the V0 and VEE pins? This LCD has built-in DC converter to drive the LCD already?

Someone noted above that the voltage needs to be fairly low (~-4V) to see the darkness of the pixels. If you hook a pot up, be sure to wipe it to both extremes to see if you can atleast see a big black box when the LCD has power, then you know atleast your contrast works and you"re getting power!

You should look on the product page"s documents. There"s links to get it working with an Arduino microcontroller. Also, there is an article on Arduino if you did an online search with example code and a hookup guide => http://playground.arduino.cc/Code/GLCDks0108.

Just remember that if you connect the RES pin to your MCU like I did, you"ll have to add code to this library to bring it high during initialization, or add an extra routine to make use of it.

I"m a little late to the party here, but I"m having some issues with stability. It doesn"t like when I reset my uC (Mega644P). I"m using code derived from summoningdark"s upgraded firmware. When the screen decides to work, it"s great. Sometime if i have a scope on one of the pins it starts just fine. Doesn"t matter which pin. On my scope, I see a lot of noise on the pins. Stuff way below the 5v it"s running on. Any special tricks? Reset operations? Pullup/Pulldown resistors, filter caps?

I recently bought this LCD to use with a Maple Mini board. What Library should I use with it? I found the KS0108 Graphics LCD library on the Arduino page. That seems to be more useful than the LiquidCrystal library which doesn"t seem to work with this 20-pin LCD.

Great screen for playing around with on the Arduino. There"s a full-featured library available with some example sketches to test that your screen is wired correctly. The only downside is that the parallel interface takes up almost all of the pins of the Uno.

The one i ordered off sparkfun nearly a month ago was of the " small fraction of the glcds out there will need a reset pulse" variety? it took me a few days and several hours to realize, i had to waste another pin. The solution was to go into the library and un-comment part of the code as described at the bottom http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Code/GLCDks0108/

I"m looking for a similar specs LCD, but with a white or blue backlight.. I"m planning on adding it next to my motorcycle OEM screen, and being green would quite likely be an ugly mismatch.

Just can"t make mine work. Just received it a while ago and have tried all the suggestions here and nothing. It just starts with all the pixels black and remains like that.

Perhaps the datasheet has changed in the past year, but I see "Logic Supply Voltage", "Operating Voltage", and several others listed as 4.5V Min, 5.0V Typ, 5.5V Max.

I can also confirm after owning one, and attempting to interface with a PIC32MX795F512L that it will not function properly on 3.3V logic. Even removing the PIC from the setup and manipulating the I/O lines by hand, I saw improper behavior with 3.3V and proper behavior with 5V.

This is exactly what I have been looking for to hook up to a Ybox (I just want a neat little gadget to hook up my workshop, nothing too big). But the question is, (and I know this is going to sound noobish, because I am, and have just literally dived into the world of electronics with a lot of information and knowledge already but less than a month"s experience) would it be compatible?

Bought without thinking, I need power from 0ne Li-ion battery. What"s the maximum current this unit takes and is there a simple ways of operating from 3v3 (besides DC-DC converter)?

I wired mine up exactly how it is shown in the pong clock app note. when I try to give it power it starts to draw more then one amp with my power supply at less then 3v. I"ve checked my wires a few times to make sure they match the schematic on the app note.

Make sure that you have a 100 to 330 ohm resister in series with the LCD backlight. Some of the documentation is not clear on this, but the resister must be there or the LED backlight will act like a dead short as soon as the voltage rises above the LED forward bias - usually about 2.0V.

So, stupid question, the LCD screen says it needs 9V to work. Is that supplied by the circuits on the board, or do you need to create a step-up dc converter to change 5V into 9V?

I"m going to have to throw my hat into this with GeodeLX and InkAnkUnk. I can"t get so much as a pixel out of this thing, using Csloser"s AVR code and having checked and rechecked wiring N times. Writing my own library from scratch from the datasheet also results in absolutely nothing. At least the backlight and contrast adjustment via pot works.

On the page Csloser links to, he recommends a pull down resistor. Could anyone comment on the importance of this? Could this be the cause of my one line LCD?

Is it possible that I burned out the controller? Or... is it possible I just got a bad one? Does anyone have experience with these that might be helpful?

There is a very good chance you just haven"t done something right. I had some trouble getting it to work as well, but it was because the code wasn"t doing the right thing. I design and develop my own boards so I have no experience with the Arduino, but if you have a more specific question I can attempt to help you.

I forgot to mention that the LCD voltage, in my experience, should be around -4V for the display to be readable. Close to -5V will turn all of the pixels fully on and above -3V they will be totally transparent. Other units may behave differently but this is how mine works.

I intended to drive this LCD with an ATmega168, which now appears to be an astonishingly bad idea if the uC has only 1K RAM and you need that to drive the LCD. True? Or am I missing something completely obvious to the non-novice? It looks like I need a separate uC (like the DiosPro) to drive the LCD, with the 168 uC controlling the DiosPro via the UART? Happy to take advice....

You don"t have to devote any ATmega168 RAM to the LCD. This component has its own video RAM, one bit per pixel, 512 bytes total. I think you have to write whole bytes at a time (8 pixels), and it doesn"t know how to draw a letter "A" by itself, but the App Note from Kronos Robotics says they have a higher-level Dios library to deal with such operations.

This is a framed graphical LCD 128x64 with LED backlight. This unit is a very clear STN type LCD with a simple command interface. This new module includes the negative voltage circuitry on board!

128x64 Dot Matrix COG, FSTN Gray background with White LED backlight, bottom (or 6:00) viewing angle, Transflective (positive), 3.0V LCD, 3.0V LED, RoHS Compliant. This LCD glass display has a wide temperature range: -20° Celcius to +70° Celcius which equates to (-4° Fahrenheit to +158° Fahrenheit).

FSTN (Film-compensated Super-twisted Nematic) provides a sharper contrast than STN by adding a film. The cost is approximately 5% higher than STN. FSTN works great for indoor and outdoor applications and is mainly used in graphic displays and higher end products. The Transflective polarizer is a mixture of Reflective and Transmissive. It provides the ability to read the LCD with or without the backlight on. It will work for all lighting conditions from dark with backlight to direct sunlight which makes it the most common choice. There is no cost difference between Transflective, Transmissive and Reflective.

Focus LCDs can provide many accessories to go with your display. If you would like to source a connector, cable, test jig or other accessory preassembled to your LCD (or just included in the package), our team will make sure you get the items you need.Get in touch with a team member today to accessorize your display!

Focus Display Solutions (aka: Focus LCDs) offers the original purchaser who has purchased a product from the FocusLCDs.com a limited warranty that the product (including accessories in the product"s package) will be free from defects in material or workmanship.