hole in lcd screen pricelist

The national average cost to repair a TV is $80, though most people spend between $65 and $90. The type of television, the complexity of the issue with the TV and parts needed factor into the price. TV repair companies often provide pickup and delivery service to customers for a set fee.

Fixing a malfunctioning television instead of throwing it away and buying a new one can save you hundreds (or even thousands) of dollars. TV repair professionals work on plasma, LCD, LED, OLED, HD, HDR and a range of other screen types. These pros have the tools, training, and experience to resolve most TV-related problems. As TV screens have gotten bigger and technology more advanced, TV repair requires a lot more technical knowledge than it used to.

Most TVs can be repaired, regardless of how new or how outdated your TV technology happens to be. According to Mark Guarino of Commercial Service Co. in Webster, New York, the more difficult types of TVs to repair are:

Whether it’s power problems, digital problems, or a broken screen, the TV repairs will vary in price, depending on the cost of parts, the extent of labor required, and any necessary taxes.

A variety of issues can arise with a TV, but most can be resolved relatively easily by professional TV techs. The most common TV repairs that Commercial Service Co. encounters include these:

What was the problem: Multiple circuit boards had gone bad within the TV. Depending on how many parts stop functioning, a repair technician can sometimes save the circuit boards. However, if too many parts are bad, it will require purchasing new or refurbished circuit boards to properly repair the TV.

What was the problem: The LCD was experiencing intermittent problems powering up and suddenly powering off. Commercial Service Co. first checked the power supply for bad parts and found it to be working properly. The service tech next checked the main circuit board and discovered that was the problem board.

It can cost you up to of $100 to repair a cracked LCD TV screen. Check to see if your TV is still under warranty — you might be able to get the screen repaired for a reduced cost if the damage is under warranty.

TV repair companies often provide pickup and delivery service to customers for a set fee. The fee covers the cost of employee labor, transportation, and overhead for coordinating.

There are a few steps you can take to aid in your decision making and to ensure that you hire a TV repairman who will be able to complete the repairs:

Determine your budget: Figure out how much you have to spend on professional TV repairs. Aligning in the upfront about your budget will save both you and your repair pro time and energy in the long run.

Gather multiple quotes: Shop around at a few different TV repair shops to make sure that you"re getting the best project cost price. TV repair shops will usually give free quotes to potential customers.

Nail down the costs: At first glance, the job may appear simple – but as the repairman gets further, they may realize that the damage is more extensive. Be sure to get a cost estimate, including labor and parts, before the work has been started so you don’t get stuck with a huge surprise bill.

Let’s cut right to the chase — repairing your existing TV will usually cost you less than replacing it. By repairing your TV instead of outright replacing it, you can save hundreds or thousands of dollars! Additionally, most TVs, regardless of how old or broken, are able to be repaired.

Unless you’re an electrician or electrical engineer, chances are that you don’t know the first thing about repairing a TV. That’s why it’s best to involve a professional repairman in the process. They will have access to the correct parts and know exactly how to handle each repair.

Most TV repair shops are trained to repair any brand of TV, regardless of where you purchased it. With your TV in professional hands, you can sit back and relax knowing you have the right people for the job.

Unless you have the skill and experience to fix your broken TV, leave this job to the pros. Start searching for atop-rated TV repair professional on Thumbtack.

Samsung’s new foldables are quite impressive, and the company has focused on making them as durable as possible — but sometimes, accidents happen. We asked Samsung how much it would cost to replace a Z Flip or Z Fold 3’s screen should something happen to it, and here’s what the company told us.

Samsung provides a one year warranty with the phones, so if your screen breaks in a way that’s covered, you shouldn’t have to pay for a repair. Out of warranty, fixing the interior folding screen of a Z Fold 3 costs $479. Doing the same for a Z Flip 3 costs $369. Thankfully, the external displays are much less expensive — fixing a broken outer screen will set you back $149 for the Fold and $99 for the Flip.

Samsung also offers its Samsung Care Plus subscription, which costs $12.99 a month for either phone (though Samsung is currently running a preorder deal where you don’t have to make Care Plus payments for 12 months). For Care Plus subscribers, Samsung says there’s a $249 charge for an out-of-warranty screen repair. You can get one of these $249 repairs up to three times in a year. Care Plus also extends your warranty for two more years after the original expires.

For traditional, non-folding phones, there’s often the option to repair the screen yourself, which can end up costing less than having the manufacturer do it. However, for Samsung’s new foldables, this isn’t likely to be easy. Samsung’s aforementioned push for durability means the phones are filled with a lot of sticky, hard to remove stuff like tape, glue, and goo. The company says the folding screens are made out of multiple layers, which are sealed with a “pressure-sensitive adhesive.” As someone who’s taken apart their share of devices, that sounds like an absolute nightmare.

That said, this isn’t much of a change. It’s not like Samsung’s previous foldables were particularly easy to repair. And while the company’s prices are higher than those for more traditional phone repairs — a broken iPhone 12 screen costs $279 to replace; a Galaxy S21 5G’s costs $199 — Samsung is actually charging less than it used to. According to Samsung’s site, the Z Fold 2’s inner screen costs $549 to replace out of warranty and the Z Flip 5G’s costs $499, though depending on when you bought the phone, you may be eligible for a one-time replacement for significantly less.

Correction: a previous version of this article quoted Samsung as saying that the $249 Samsung Care Plus deductible covered three screen repairs per year. The company has told us it was incorrect. Samsung Care Plus customers will need to pay the $249 deductible for each screen repair, up to three a year.

So this morning I came into work and turned my machine on, began checking emails and left for a a brief meeting. I came back and noticed the screensaver was not on…just a black screen. I moved the mouse and the screen didn’t come back, what did come back was a grayish screen with colored thin lined running plaid over the entire monitor. After looking at the mess for a few seconds I noticed blotchy areas forming all over it, then they dissappeared and the monitotr appeared to go back to the gray and colored plaid I was looking at.

As for the acid coming from it, I turned the flat screen monitor over and noticed on the stand there was a acid-like burn right under the monitor section. It has literally eaten away at the base of this thing…Has anyone ever seen this? What could it be? Under nearly a 5inch diameter acidic tye burn is showing…

There are many LCD screen manufacturers for the Laptop Industry. LCD screens have different resolutions, size and type and these screens are compatible as long as the resolution and connections are the same.

For this listing, we will ship you a brand new OEM Compatible LCD screen manufactured either by Samsung, LG, Chi Mei, Chunghwa, Sharp, or AUOptronics. For more information about each LCD manufacture please click here.

If you wish to know the make of the actual LCD that will be shipped to you, please contact us by phone with your order information between 10AM - 8PM EST (Monday – Friday).

If the hole is only in a thin surface film, you might be able to press it flat, but if the film has been distorted (stretched), it probably won"t stay flat. You might find that over time, the film may flatten a little on its own. I would not try to soften it with heat because some plastics will shrink and shrivel, making it worse and eliminating any chance for improvement.

If it is a puncture hole that extends into other plastic layers, you will not be able to flatten the raised rim of the hole without damaging a bigger area.

In terms of filling the hole, that is also likely to make it worse and if not, probably won"t improve it. It also depends on the purpose of the surface film and the cause of the bright spot. If it is an anti-glare film,the bright spot may be the next layer. Anything that is not anti-glare film will be a similarly non-diffusing surface. If the filler doesn"t have the same refractive index as the next layer, it may create cloudiness or distortion that will also be noticeable.

Filling the hole with something like what is used to fill holes in car windshields is likely to make it much worse. That material is similar to superglue. It may etch the surface. It may wick under the film and damage a large area. The fumes may etch the surface over a large area.

Similarly, trying to glue down the surface film may wick under the film and mess up a large area. If you use an adhesive that doesn"t wick, you would need a way to compress the film flat until it cures to avoid a permanent bump. Material thick enough not to wick is likely to leave a raised area. The screen sandwich is manufactured using tightly stretched sheets of material that are compressed together and bonded under pressure. It is not a condition you can reproduce to repair a spot.

There isn"t a practical way to actually repair it, but can you make it less noticeable? A number of people responded with ideas based on the principle that a dark spot may be less noticeable than a bright spot. You could potentially make it a little less noticeable, but it"s a question of how much improvement can you achieve and at what risk.

No matter what you do, it will still be noticeable. Maybe a darker spot won"t bother you as much if you get it right. But there is a good chance of achieving little or no net improvement, and a substantial risk of making the situation worse in a non-fixable way.

Anything hard, like a pencil or pen tip, can nudge more film loose, making the hole bigger. Any liquid can wick under the film, leaving a big stained area. Assume permanent markers that will stick to the film will be permanent, whether or not it turns out to be an improvement.

Don"t count on a redo or cleanup, because cleaning fluids, including any dissolved materials, can wick under the film, and rubbing is likely to make the hole bigger. So if you don"t get it as good as you"re going to get it on the first try, you have a good chance of making the problem permanently worse.

Now that you"ve been forewarned, if you are determined to try this, here"s an approach I would try if it was a last resort (disclaimer, I"ve never tested it, but it seems like the least risky alternative). Practice the procedure first on something else to get the feel for how things behave and how much working time you have. Work with a magnifier and good light so you can see what you"re doing. Do the procedure with the screen lying face up and level.

Use a very viscous sticky material with temporary adhesion, like rubber cement for paper. Use an extremely fine-tipped brush, or be extremely gentle with a toothpick, to apply a thin layer to the hole, being careful not to get it anywhere else (not getting it anywhere else is more important than perfectly filling the hole).

While it is still tacky, dust on some dry powdered graphite using a pinpoint applicator (sold in hardware stores as a lock lubricant). Use a soft brush and blowing, while protecting the hole, to remove any graphite that lands outside the hole (you can clean the rest of the screen as you normally would, just be careful to avoid the hole). If you"ve made the problem worse, you may be able to carefully peel this filler off when it dries.

If the hole bothers you so much that you are ready to replace the screen or buy a new monitor, you don"t have much to lose by attempting these measures (other than possibly not having the monitor as a backup in the latter case). Otherwise, consider whether the risks outweigh the minor potential improvement.

Unfortunately, this is one of those problems where the best solution may be to change how you view the problem. You"re aware of the hole, which serves as a constant reminder. Instead of letting the hole bother you, think about how much money you will save by simply living with it. Every time your eye is drawn to it, remind yourself of the savings from not buying a replacement monitor. :-)

For decades, we’ve lived with an inconvenient technological truth: Cameras and other sensors cannot occupy the same space as our screens. It’s why, increasingly, smartphones rely on the dreaded “notch” as a way of maximizing screen-to-body ratios while preserving the front-facing camera and other sensors.

Some phone makers, from Oppo to OnePlus, get around this problem by using motorized pop-up cameras, while others have resorted to punching holes in displays to provide the camera with its own peephole. It’s also why even the latest high-end laptops still have pronounced bezels around their displays. The webcam needs a home and it seems no one is willing to live with a notch or hole-punch on a computer.

But it turns out that cameras and screens aren’t quite as incompatible as they seem. Thanks to improvements in manufacturing techniques, these two adversaries are about to end their long-standing territorial dispute. This isn’t a far-flung prediction; it’s happening right now.

Complaining about a phone notch, hole-punch or a large screen bezel is the very definition of a first-world problem. And judging from Apple’s stellar sales numbers, none of these side effects of forward-facing cameras are dealbreakers for buyers.

First, it lets you make phones that have true edge-to-edge screens. Videos and photos look better, and app developers can make use of every square millimeter for their designs — all while keeping the phone’s body as small as possible.

Second, from a design and manufacturing point of view, if cameras and sensors can be placed anywhere, with fewer restrictions on their size and visibility, it redraws the map for phone design. Bigger batteries, thinner phones, more sensors, and much better cameras are all potential upsides.

Cameras placed in bezels or notches create the now all-too-familiar, awkward downward gaze that happens during video calls. “Most of the time, you’re not actually looking at each other when you’re talking over video chat,” Michael Helander, CEO at Toronto-based OTI Lumionics told Digital Trends. “The current placement of videoconferencing cameras in all of these devices is really suboptimal.”

Helander has probably thought about this problem more than most. His company creates specialty materials that enable what was once impossible — making displays transparent enough that you can place a camera behind them.

Once a camera is sitting behind the display, it will finally make our video interactions look and feel like real, in-person interactions — a game changer that couldn’t come at a better time in our COVID-restricted world.

Screen technology is dominated by two kinds of displays. The most common are liquid crystal displays (LCD), which include LED TVs and QLED TVs. The second, organic light-emitting diode (OLED), dominates smartphones and tablets, and is growing in use in laptops and even desktop monitors

LCDs are actually transparent when not in use — that’s why you see a gray background on a calculator screen wherever the black digit segments aren’t active. But taking advantage of this transparency to take a photo poses big technical hurdles, especially once you factor in the need for a backlight.

The active portion of an OLED display, on the other hand, is paper-thin. Its various layers are measured in nanometers, making it the perfect candidate for transparency. Its nanometer-thin top layer of metal is already translucent for visible light, but infrared light is totally blocked.

One solution favored by Xiaomi and Oppo in their UDC prototypes is to rely on an OLED pixel’s inherent transparency. When an OLED pixel isn’t being used to emit light, it lets light in. So you can place a camera behind an OLED display and it will be able to gather enough light to capture images. But there’s a catch: You still need to place the camera at the top or bottom of the screen, because when the camera is active, the OLED pixels above it must be shut off, which creates a temporary black area on the screen. That approach is a solution to the notch and hole-punch problem, but it does nothing to solve the downward gaze issue.

Another way to achieve transparency is by creating small physical holes that fit between a display’s pixels, but that’s incredibly difficult in its own right.

The first commercially available phone with an under-display camera — the ZTE Axon 20 5G — uses this technique, but it also suffers from a less-than-ideal compromise. Modern smartphones have incredibly densely packed pixels. The iPhone 12 Pro has a 460ppi (pixels per inch) display, which means that there are more than 200,000 pixels in one square inch. Sony’s Xperia XZ Premium had a whopping 807ppi screen (more than 650,000 pixels per square inch).

Punching holes in between those pixels, even with a laser, is so tricky that ZTE had to remove some pixels from the area above the camera to buy some extra room. The result is a noticeably lower-resolution square on the screen.

A lower-resolution section of the screen might not bother you when it’s near the top, in an area that’s used mostly for inconsequential information. But few people would accept such an obvious reduction of resolution in the center of their phone’s display, which is what we would need to counteract the downward-gaze problem.

But there is a third option. What if, instead of relying on transparent pixels, or punching holes in the display after assembly, you could create millions of tiny holes in each layer of an OLED display during manufacturing?

“We know how to do that in the TFT [thin-film transistor] layer,” Helander said. “We know how to do that in the bottom electrode. We know how to do that in the layer that makes up all of the different pixels.” But the top metal layer, also known as the cathode, isn’t created like these other layers, and that poses a unique engineering challenge.

The top metal cathode isn’t a sheet of metal in the conventional sense. Instead of bonding a separate metal sheet to the top of the display, metal molecules are vaporized and allowed to condense over the entire surface, a process known as vapor deposition.

“The technology that we’ve developed is a way of patterning millions of tiny holes in that layer during the manufacturing process through what’s called self-assembly,” Helander said. “When you lay all these materials together, they’ll naturally form all of these little openings in the display, millions of them.”

Helander claims the self-assembly process works on any screen size, and lets manufacturers decide how many openings are needed — from just one to 1 billion.

As exciting as it is to think that we’ll soon be able to have much more natural video calls, placing a camera under a display puts an even bigger onus on manufacturers to provide trustworthy privacy measures.

We’ll need some kind of reliable indicator of when the camera is active and an equally reliable way of disabling it. Because it’s under the screen, there’s no way to physically block the lens without blocking content on the screen as well.

Apple recently updated iOS to show a small green dot near the notch when its forward-facing camera is in use, and an orange dot to show when the mic is active. That’s a good way to inform us of what’s going on, but we need something more.

Smart speakers like the Google Nest mini ship with physical switches that can be used to disable the microphones. Assuming that there’s no way to remotely overcome the switch’s position, it provides a very good level of trust. A similar mechanism on TVs, monitors, and laptops should come standard once cameras become invisible.

OTI Lumionics already has agreements in place with several Chinese smartphone manufacturers, but due to confidentiality restrictions, these companies can’t be named just yet. “Many of them have prototype phones that have been built and everything looks great,” Helander notes, “but none of them want to disclose anything publicly until they’re ready for their actual official product announcements.” He’s confident that we’ll see these new under-display camera models sometime in 2021, although they may remain a Chinese market exclusive until 2022.

I was fully prepared for Helander to tell me that only the most premium smartphones, commanding prices of $1,000 or more, would be first to market with UDCs. But the first models are expected to be midtier handsets. He attributes this to the ferocious competition among the Chinese brands in the $400 to $600 smartphone market, which has led to a willingness to try new features faster, even if they fail to catch on.

Display trends are swiftly changing every year and before we get a truly bezel-less phone, we will have to endure all kinds of crazy. But crazy can be a refreshing change of pace. (हिंदी में पढ़िए)

In the pursuit of larger screens, manufacturers resorted to different aspect ratios and raged a war on bezels. Consequently, they were forced to come up with novel ways to house the front camera (including pop-up modules and sliders). But we guess a punch hole screen for in-display camera is what everyone has agreed upon for 2020.

The term in-display is a bit misleading. There is still time before we plant cameras behind the screen the same way as we do for in-display fingerprint readers, but for now, the in-display cameras are more of a free-floating notch or hole that’s supposed to be less intrusive than a regular notch that drips from the top bezel.

This leaves most of the status bar free to be populated with relatively more system and app icons. A few OEMs also add a few gestures to get more of the in-display camera. For instance, you can swipe down in the region to direct fire the camera app on the Galaxy A8s.

Two kinds of punch-hole cameras are currently in trend – circular ones that are centrally aligned and the long elongated cutouts that house dual front cameras and are consequently referred to as dual punch hole notches.

All Samsung phones launched this year have a punch-hole notch or Infinity-O display as Samsung puts it.  Samsung’s first set of flagships the Galaxy S20, Galaxy S20+, and Galaxy S20 Ultra have gorgeous 120Hz dynamic AMOLED screens, each with a centrally aligned punch hole for the selfie camera.

In India, these phones are powered by Exynos 990, and boast of a host of impressive features including improved cameras, LPDDR5 RAM, 25W fast charging, and Android 10-based One UI 2.0 software.

The Samsung Galaxy Note 10 is totally unapologetic about its circular notch placed smack in the middle of the status bar. The size is the primary differentiator between the regular Note 10 and Note 10 Plus, but Plus variant gets a few extras including SD card slot and faster 45 charging.

Both of the Samsung Note 10 Phones include triple rear cameras, powerful 7nm Exynos 9825 chipset, S Pen with a gyro sensor and gesture support, and both are missing an audio jack.

The three phones in the Samsung Galaxy S10-series – Galaxy S10, Galaxy S10+, & Galaxy S10e – have been the biggest proponent of punch holes this year.

One primary reason for these phones topping this chart is that Samsung delivers the neatest punch hole on these AMOLED screens. There is no shadow or dull pixel lining the cutout which isn’t something we can say for other IPS LCD punch hole displays.

The Galaxy S10 trio covers a wide expanse in the premium segment. Being the epitome of Samsungs craftsmanship, all the three phones deliver excellent hardware in different form factors – and they still retain the audio jack.

Poco X2 (review) outfits a dual punch hole camera on the front and retails for a bargain price. It has an IPS LCD display which measures 6.67 inches and gives 84.8% screen to body ratio. The resolution is FHD+ with about 395 PPI density. It supports a 120Hz refresh rate and HDR10 out of the box. You get protection by Gorilla Glass 5 on both front and back.

The selfie game is handled by a 20MP main sensor and a 2MP depth unit, while the rear panel is led by a 64MP Sony IMX686 sensor. It comes in two variants. The handset is powered by Snapdragon 730G.

Realme’s India flagship, X50 Pro (review), is powered by Snapdragon 865 and is also the first 5G phone in the country. The 6.44-inch AMOLED display has a wide and clean punch hole notch in the corner that houses 2 cameras.

The handset has LPDDR5 RAM, fast UFS 3.0 storage, and a 4500mAh battery with 65W fast charging support. So, overall, a very alluring device for hardcore gamers.

The Galaxy A51 (review) and Galaxy A71 (review) have spectacular designs. These phones are slimmer and lighter than most phones in 2020, which makes them more comfortable to wield and operate.

As all premium and mid-range Samsung phones in 2020, these two have a circular cut-out symmetrically aligned at the center of the status bar. The cut is neet and the AMOLED panel of high-quality.

In India, Xiaomi Redmi Note 9 series is the first to include punch-hole style of notches. The Note 9 Pro and Note 9 Pro Max are both big and bulky phones with 5000mAh batteries that have centrally aligned punch-hole notches on their IPS LCD displays.

Both of these phones employ Snapdragon 720G octa-core chipset, have beefy 5000mAh batteries with fast charging support, 64MP quad-cameras and run Android 10-based MIUI 11 software.

Huawei’s Honor 20 and Honor 20 Pro are the two new Kirin 980 powered phones that are competitively priced and bear IPS LCD displays with a punch hole.

The two phones also focus on delivering a remarkable camera experience. You get quad rear cameras and 32MP front camera housed within the front hole. The Honor 20 Pro and Honor 20 have almost identical specs, but the pro variant comes has more RAM and storage and a slightly bigger battery.

The Motorola One Vision has a unique 21:9 aspect ratio screen. The unnaturally elongated screen is marked by a punch-hole camera at the top, and its disproportionately restricted width makes it comfortable to wield.

The Lenovo phone employs Samsung’s Exynos 9606 octa-core chipset and has the 48-megapixel Sony sensor for the primary rear camera. Other highlights include a 25MP front camera, 3500mAh battery, and pure stock Android software (Android One).

The Z1 Pro is the first Vivo phone with a punch-hole display in India. The handset is powered by Snapdragon 712 octa-core chipset and includes triple rear cameras.

This game-centric online exclusive handset has a massive 6.53-inch screen with full HD+ resolution and a 5000mAh power unit backing it up. Other features include UFS 2.1 storage, LPDDR4X RAM, 16MP selfie camera, a rear-mounted fingerprint sensor, and a 3.5mm audio jack.

Moto One Action is another Android One phone from Motorola that has triple rear cameras and a punch-hole cutout in its elongated 21:9 display for the front camera.

The Moto One Action is powered by Samsung Exynos 6909 chipset paired with a 3500mAh battery. The One Action will retail in 3GB and 4GB RAM options with 32GB and 64GB of storage.

Moving ahead, the road could take us to some innovative design alternatives to Notch. Even brands like Meizu could take the Punch-Hole In-display camera route evident from their recent patents. And the only doubt we have is regarding the placement of other sensors and antennas which were otherwise housed in the notch island.

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Unlike TVs, projectors are actually one part of a multipart system. The screen, room, and projector all play a role in the final image you see. A projector can be perfectly accurate (more on this below), but the image can still look wrong because of how the screen is affecting it. The main factors we considered when testing a projection screen were: gain, color accuracy, viewing angle, and texture.

Gain is a measurement of how much light the screen reflects. A gain of 1.0 means it reflects the same amount of light as an industry standard white magnesium-oxide board. Screens can reflect less light and have a gain of less than 1.0, or more light and have a gain higher than 1.0. A lower gain will produce deeper, darker blacks but reduce overall image brightness. In the early days of digital projection, this was useful because projectors had terrible (read: grayish) blacks. But that is less of an issue now with most decent projectors.

A higher gain, made possible by special screen materials, reflects more light back toward the center of the room. This creates a brighter image, but it also reduces viewing angles and can introduce hot spots (areas of the image that are noticeably brighter than other areas). It used to be that a higher gain was necessary, but as projectors have gotten more powerful, today a gain of 1.0 is often sufficient.

Color accuracy measures how well the screen reflects the colors projected onto it. The makeup of the screen can result in certain colors being absorbed more than others and introduce a tint to the image that isn’t coming from the projector. Many projectors ship with picture modes that are close to accurate out of the box, but those might no longer be accurate after they hit the screen. A screen that introduces as little color shifting as possible is ideal. The two images below show the same image on two different screen materials. You can easily see the color shifts between the two and the problems a screen can introduce.

At left is Goo Systems" Screen Goo paint, and at right is Elite Screens" Sable. Note the warm, red tint to the Screen Goo, while the Elite has a cool, blue tint. Photo: Chris Heinonen

Viewing angles influence how wide you can sit from the center of the screen before the light noticeably drops off. With a gain of 1.0, the viewing angle can be close to 180 degrees, since it reflects everything more or less equally in all directions. With a higher gain, the viewing angle gets smaller, as you are in essence “focusing” the reflected light more toward the center of the room. With a high-gain screen, you’ll want to put seats closer to the center of the screen.

The texture of the screen also impacts how much detail you can see. If a screen’s texture is evident from a usual seating distance, it will alter the image quality and possibly your enjoyment. If the screen material is very fine, then you will not see any texture from a normal viewing distance, so the image appears smooth.

Almost all of the screen reviews out there are of expensive screens, so we had to start from scratch. I first went to the AccuCal Projection Screen Material Report. W. Jeff Maier of AccuCal has tested samples of many screen materials using high-end equipment to determine their color accuracy and actual gain. Since he is dealing with only samples of the materials (often 8½- by 11-inch pieces) that he is sent through the mail, the report doesn’t go into construction or installation of the screens themselves.

Next, my research turned to the main AVSForum and other resources. Here the screen conversations range from the top-of-the-line Stewart to a DIY option for $3 from Home Depot. There are also many small Internet Direct companies that would otherwise go unnoticed without discussions at AVS and other locations.

We also pored over reviews from Amazon, making sure to carefully read what people actually complained about. I also talked to other reviewers and calibrators to find out what they might have used and seen in their work that impressed them, even if they had not formally reviewed that particular screen.

After all that, we set out to review 100-inch, 16:9 screens, as close to 1.0 gain as possible. We figured this was a good-size, average screen that would work for most people. You can certainly go larger, though the image will be dimmer (by an amount equal to the increase in screen area). Since most modern home theater projectors won’t have an issue creating a bright image on a 100-inch screen (and most can even do larger), we didn’t feel anything higher than a 1.0 gain was necessary. Since most content is 16:9, that was also our preferred screen shape, though many companies make 2.35:1-shaped screens as well.

We didn’t test pull-down screens or ambient-light-rejecting materials unless we already had a sample around. Those are more specialized cases, and we were looking for the screen that would be best for the greatest number of people in a semi-permanent home setting.

We were looking for a roughly 100-inch, 1.0-gain, 16:9 screen that had very little color shift, no noticeable texture, good viewing angles, and easy installation and setup. And, ideally, was very inexpensive.

So to sum up, we were looking for a roughly 100-inch, 1.0-gain, 16:9 screen that had very little color shift, no noticeable texture, good viewing angles, and easy installation and setup—and, ideally, was very inexpensive. With that in mind, we ended up bringing in the Silver Ticket STR Series 100″, the Elite Screens SableFrame 2 100″ in CineWhite, the 100-inch Stewart StudioTek 130 and Cima Neve 1.1 screens, three 120-inch screen materials (blackout cloth, FlexiWhite, and FlexiGray) from Carl’s Place, Wilsonart Designer White laminate in an 8- by 4-foot sheet, Goo Systems" Screen Goo Reference White and GooToob, and Home Depot"s Behr Silver Screen. I also included in the testing my personal screen, a 122-inch Screen Innovations SolarHD 4K.

The Stewart and Screen Innovations screens are much more expensive models that are often sold only through custom AV retailers, but we still included them in our tests as references for comparison. Stewart is the best-selling screen brand for custom home theaters, and the StudioTek 130 is the company"s best-selling material. It is the reference standard for a home theater screen and the one most reviewers are likely to recommend if you ask for a single suggestion; I use it when testing projectors. In our tests of screens, we wanted to make sure to pit everything against this reference to see how well they performed.

1. Every single digitizer assembly we shipped was strictly checked in good condition before shipping, so please be sure to check carefully after receiving it. If there is any damage, please contact us within 3 days.

3. For those digitizer assemblies HAVE BEEN INSTALLED AND CAUSED DAMAGE on appearance or labels, they are outside the scope of warranty, returning is not supported, please be kindly understood.

If your phone has image display issues, an unresponsive touch screen or physical cracks or scratches on the glass, this assembly part is what you need

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A close look at the video input interfaces used in LCD monitors. With the emergence of a new generation of interfaces, growing numbers of LCD monitors feature multiple and different interfaces. Image quality and ease of use are likely to depend on how well the user knows and uses the unique characteristics of each interface when connecting the appropriate devices.

Note: Below is the translation from the Japanese of the "IT Media LCD Display Course II, Part 2," published on December 16, 2008. Copyright 2011 ITmedia Inc. Information about Mini DisplayPort was added to the English translation.

Driven by demand for higher-resolution monitor environments and the proliferation of high-definition devices, the types of video input interfaces ("interfaces" hereinafter) found in LCD monitors continue to proliferate. More than likely, significant numbers of users encountering LCD monitors incorporating multiple input systems have wondered what to connect to which terminal. In this article, we"ll discuss, one by one, the main interfaces used today. But first, let"s give an overview of the types of interfaces available.

The interfaces for LCD monitors designed for use with PCs can be grouped into two categories: analog interfaces, carryovers from the days of CRT monitors, and the digital interfaces developed more recently. An analog interface involves the additional steps of conversion of digital signals within the PC to analog signals for output and the conversion of these analog signals back into digital form by the LCD monitor receiving the signal. This series of actions can degrade image quality. (Image quality also depends on the quality of the route used in converting from analog to digital.) A digital interface offers superior image quality, since it transmits digital signals without conversion or modification.

LCD-monitor interfaces also can be grouped by differences in the devices connected. Major categories here are inputs from PCs and inputs from audio-video (AV) devices. PC input generally involves one of the following five interface types: D-Sub for analog connections; DVI-D for digital connections; DVI-I, which is compatible with both analog and digital connections; and HDMI and DisplayPort, representing the new generation of interfaces for digital connections. Other more recent adapters input and output PC RGB signals and LCD monitors using USB as a video input interface.

The main AV input interfaces are composite video, S-Video, component video, D1 – 5, and HDMI. All of these other than the new HDMI standard use analog connections. As with PC input, a digital HDMI connection generally provides better image quality for AV input than the various analog connection interfaces.

It"s worth noting that while HDMI was designed for use with AV input and output, the standard also supports PC input and output. LCD monitors incorporating HDMI ports include some that support PC input officially and others that—whether or not they can display PC input—do not support PC input officially.

Known officially as D-Sub miniature, D-Sub is not exclusive to display use. It"s also used for serial-port, parallel-port, SCSI, and other connectors, with the number of connector pins depending on the purpose of use. However, these connector standards are rarely if ever found in PCs now for general-purpose personal use, most such applications having migrated to USB.

When used as a monitor interface, a D-Sub port is also known as a VGA port, an analog connection standard that"s been around for some time. The connector is a DE-15 connector with 15 pins in three rows, often referred to as a "mini-D-Sub 15-pin" or "D-Sub 15-pin" connector. (Some connectors omit unused pins.) D-Sub is currently the most widely used monitor interface, compatible with very large numbers of PCs and LCD monitors.

A D-Sub female connector (photo at left) installed on the monitor side and a D-Sub male connector (center photo) on the cable side. A D-Sub cable features a screw on each end of the connector that can be turned by hand to prevent unintended disconnection (photo at right).

The Digital Visual Interface (DVI) standard uses one of three types of connectors: DVI-D for digital connection; DVI-A for analog connection; and DVI-I, compatible with both digital and analog connections. The DVI-A connector for analog use is not in general use and can be disregarded when choosing monitor products.

Keep in mind that there are two types of mainstream DVI-D digital connections: single link and dual link. For a single-link DVI-D connection, the maximum resolution that can be displayed is 1920 × 1200 pixels (WUXGA). Higher resolutions (such as 2560 × 1600 pixels) require a dual-link DVI-D connection providing double the bandwidth of a single-link DVI-D (7.4 Gb/second or higher). To use a dual-link DVI-D connection, the DVI-D input on the LCD monitor side, the DVI-D output on the PC side, and the DVI-D cable must all be compatible with the dual-link DVI-D standard.

DVI-I, the other DVI standard, can be used with both digital and analog connections, depending on the monitor cable used. Since a DVI-I analog signal is compatible with the D-Sub standard, an analog connection can be formed by using a monitor cable with a D-Sub connector on one end and a DVI-I connector on the other. Depending on the cable and the connectors on the PC side and on the LCD-monitor side, it may also be possible to use an adapter for connecting a DVI-I connector with a D-Sub connector.

A DVI-D female connector installed on the monitor side (photo at left) and a DVI-D single-link (18-pin) male connector installed on the cable (center photo). As with D-Sub cables, a DVI-D cable can be secured into place by turning the screws on either end of the connector (photo at right).

Monitor cables with DVI-I connectors on both ends were available at one time. These are rare today, since this configuration made it difficult to determine whether the connection was digital or analog and generated frequent connection issues. Having DVI-I connectors on both the PC side and the LCD monitor side can lead to confusion. In such cases, the ideal configuration is a digital connection made with a DVI-D cable.

As the latest digital interfaces, the High-Definition Multimedia Interface (HDMI), DisplayPort, and Mini DisplayPort have attracted considerable attention. All standards offer the capacity to transfer both audio and video signals digitally using a single cable; all offer easy cable attachment and removal.

The shapes of HDMI, DisplayPort, and Mini DisplayPort connectors resemble that of a USB series-A connector (on the side of the USB host, such as a PC). The connectors lack screws, allowing the cables to be readily inserted and removed. (The disadvantage: This makes it easier to dislodge a cable connection if a hand or foot catches on the cable.)

At left is an HDMI (type A) female connector; in the middle is a DisplayPort female connector; at right is a Mini DisplayPort female connector. The HDMI connector has 19 pins. The DisplayPort and Mini DisplayPort connectors have 20 pins and an asymmetrical (left to right) connector. (The HDMI standard also defines a 29-pin type-B connector compatible with resolutions exceeding 1080p.)

The HDMI, DisplayPort, and Mini DisplayPort standards also are compatible with the High-Bandwidth Digital Content Protection System (HDCP). A technology intended to protect copyright on digital content, HDCP allows authorization of both output and input devices before video is displayed.

Another feature is that HDMI, DisplayPort, and Mini DisplayPort video signals can be converted back and forth with the DVI-D standard, a PC digital interface. Using the appropriate conversion adapter or cable, we can output video from a DVI-D, HDMI, DisplayPort, and Mini DisplayPort connector and input to any of these options. Currently, however, this implementation appears to be imperfect: In certain cases, input and output devices are not completely compatible (i.e., video does not display).

While HDMI, DisplayPort, and Mini DisplayPort each can transmit both audio and video using a single cable, DVI-D can transmit only video and requires separate input/output ports and cables for audio. For this reason, when converting between the DVI-D and HDMI, DisplayPort or Mini DisplayPort standards, only video can be transmitted over a single cable. (Some products can transmit audio from the DVI side via a conversion adapter.)

Now a standard interface for devices (primarily televisions and recorders), HDMI was established in December 2002 by Sony, Toshiba, Thomson Multimedia, Panasonic (formerly Matsushita), Hitachi, and Philips, led by Silicon Image. HDMI video signals are based on the DVI-D standard, a digital RGB interface used in PCs, to which audio transmission and digital rights management (DRM) functions were added. HDMI was intended mainly for use as a digital video and audio interface for home electronics and AV equipment.

An HDMI (type-A) female connector (photo at left) and male connector (center photo). The compact HDMI cable is easily connected and disconnected, just like a USB cable (photo at right). HDMI cables come in two types: Standard (category 1), denoting those that have passed 74.25 MHz in transmission-speed tests, and High Speed (category 2), denoting those certified for 340 MHz. A High Speed cable is recommended when using high-definition signals such as 1440p.

In discussions about HDMI, the subject of functional differences between versions of the HDMI standard is unavoidable. The table below summarizes the major differences. There are significant differences in functions implemented between HDMI versions through version 1.2a and HDMI versions 1.3 and above.

Since HDMI versions are backward compatible, we can still input and output video and audio if the output side is compatible with version 1.3 or above and the input side with version 1.2a or below. However, if the output device uses functions implemented in version 1.3 or higher, these functions will be canceled on input devices that comply with version 1.2a or earlier.

Incidentally, while HDMI 1.3 incorporates standards such as the wide color-gamut standard xvYCC and Deep Color, which can handle color data at greater than 24 bits, these specifications are elective. A version number such as 1.3 is merely the number of the applicable technical specifications; manufacturers can choose what functions to include, depending on the specific product. For this reason, even a product advertised as HDMI 1.3a compliant may not feature all of the functions supported by HDMI 1.3a.

1 Consumer Electronics Control (CEC): A signal used for control functions between devices connected by HDMI; used in technologies such as Sharp"s Aquos Familink , Toshiba"s Regzalink, and Panasonic"s Viera Link.

Formally approved in May 2006, the DisplayPort standard is a new standard released in May 2005 by the Video Electronics Standards Association (VESA) of the United States, an industry organization that establishes standards for PC-related interfaces. As a video interface promoted by VESA, a constituency composed mainly of PC and monitor makers, it is designed to succeed the DVI and D-Sub standards as a PC interface. However, there"s no reason it can"t also be used in AV equipment.

With a maximum transmission speed of 10.8 Gbps, compatibility with resolutions of up to 2560 × 2048 pixels or higher, color depth of 48 bits (16 bits per RGB color), and a maximum refresh rate of 120 Hz (120 fps), its basic video interface specs are close to those of HDMI. However, unlike HDMI, which transmits data for RGB video signals and clock signals separately, it sends all video and audio to the destination device through a serial connection, split into micro-packets called transfer units.

Since DisplayPort is a serial interface like PCI Express that generates a clock from the data instead of using external clock signals, data transmission speeds and functionality are easily improved. In addition, since DisplayPort employs a configuration wherein the LCD monitor is operated directly, it makes it possible to reduce the numbers of components. Another benefit is its ability to transmit signals over distances of up to 15 meters.

In the DisplayPort standard, the output side is defined as the source device and the input side as the sync device. Under this configuration, the source and sync devices communicate with each other, making it possible to automatically adjust transmission to the optimal resolution, color depth, and refresh rate. Audio and video data can be transmitted through a combination of single, double, or quadruple channels called lanes, and two data rates (1.62 Gbps and 2.7 Gbps). The minimum configuration is a single lane at 1.62 Gbps; the maximum is four lanes at 2.7 Gbps each for a total of 10.8 Gbps.

The audio formats supported and other attributes are important elements of sync devices. For audio, compatibility with 16-bit linear PCM (32/44.1/48 kHz) is required. Other formats are optional. Still, the standard is compatible with formats up to high-definition audio such as Dolby TrueHD and DTS HD. For color information, compatibility with RGB, YCbCr (4:2:2), and YCbCr (4:4:4) is a requirement.

One major difference apparent when we compare HDMI and DisplayPort is the presence or absence of licensing fees. Implementing HDMI in a product requires manufacturers to pay a licensing fee of $10,000/year, while HDCP implementation requires a separate licensing fee of $15,000/year. These licensing fees entail significant costs for manufacturers. When product pricing reflects these costs, they can impact ordinary users to a greater or lesser degree. A more familiar example is the HDMI cable, which is also subject to a licensing fee, making it more expensive than other AV cables. (Note that the licensing fee is not the sole cause of higher prices; quality requirements and other factors also drive up prices.)

DisplayPort requires no licensing fees other than that for HDCP, making it more attractive and easier for manufacturers to adopt. Progress in mass production will likely lead to price advantages for ordinary users as well. Still, HDMI is clearly the current mainstream digital interface for products like AV equipment and videogame consoles. DisplayPort, even if standardized under the leadership of PC makers, is unlikely to take its place. With growing support for DisplayPort among vendors of graphics chips for use in PC environments and growing numbers of compatible products, including the MacBook, use of DisplayPort is projected to expand.

Let"s discuss video input interfaces, starting with the D-Terminal and component video standards. The video signals themselves are identical for both of these. The video signal is composed of the following three signal types: the Y brightness/synchronization signal; the Pb (Cb) signal for the difference between blue and Y; and the Pr (Cr) signal carrying the difference between red and Y. Altogether, these are referred to as a component video signal. A characteristic of this technology is its ability to input and output high-quality analog video signals by omitting the process of video-signal separation and combination.

A component video port has separate connectors for each of the three video-signal types: A green connector for the Y signal, a blue connector for the Pb (Cb) signal, and a red connector for the Pr (Cr) signal. In most cases, the compatible video formats are 480i, 480p, 720p, and 1080i, with connectors labeled Y, Cb, and Cr compatible with 480i video and connectors labeled Y, Pb, and Pr with higher-quality video formats.

While component video ports offer higher quality and greater benefits than most other types of analog video input, they also entail inconveniences, including more troublesome connections (since they use three connectors) and greater space requirements on devices equipped with such ports. Additionally, they are incapable of transmitting control signals. In Japan, the D-Terminal standard, formulated by the Japan Electronics and Information Technology Industries Association (JEITA, known at the time as the Electronic Industry Association of Japan, or EIAJ), which features its own improvements on these points, has entered widespread use.

A D-Terminal connector combines the three types of component video signals into a single cable and is easier to connect. It also embeds a control signal to identify scanning lines, scanning method, and aspect ratio. (In passing, it"s called a D-Terminal only because its connector is shaped like the letter "D"; the "D" does not mean "digital." Signals flowing through the D-Terminal and the connecting cable are analog.) The table below gives the types of D-Terminals (D1 – 5) and corresponding video formats. While many products feature D5 terminals, which are compatible with 1080p video, this is not specified in the official JEITA standard.

D-Terminal female (photo at left) and male (center photo) connectors. Each connector end of a D-Terminal cable features a hook to prevent accidental disconnection (photo at right). The connector has 14 pins.

Comparisons of picture quality between component video and D-Terminal standards show that component video, with its three separate connectors, offers higher picture quality, due to structural characteristics of the cable and connector. Many believe this difference becomes even more marked with longer cables.

Let"s consider S-Video and composite video ports. Video consists of a brightness signal and a color signal, combined to create a composite video signal. A composite video port transmits the composite video signal as is; an S-Video port transmits the composite signal separated into a brightness signal and a color signal. Since less processing is needed to combine and separate the brightness and color signals, an S-Video port provides higher picture quality than a composite video port.

On an RCA connector with three single pins in a row, the yellow pin is the composite female connector (photo at left). Most composite cables assume the form of a single cable that splits into three connectors, with the yellow connector used for video and the red and white for stereo audio (center photo). An S-Video female connector (photo at right), which has four pins.

Additionally, there are two types of S-Video ports: S1, which can identify video with aspect ratios of 4:3 and 16:9; and S2, which can identify "letterbox" video with black bands above and below, to display 16:9 aspect-ratio video on 4:3 aspect-ratio monitors. A display device receiving video with a 16:9 aspect ratio or letterbox video performs the appropriate scaling to display the correct aspect ratio.

S-Video and composite ports are capable of handling video up to standard-definition NTSC (480i). They are likely to be phased out gradually in the future, except for applications requiring the connection of older video equipment such as VHS video decks or DV cameras.

Analog video interfaces, including D-Terminal and component video, can be summarized as follows, in descending order of general perception of picture quality: component video, D-Terminal, S-Video, and composite video.

Let"s conclude by returning to the subject of PC environments. Some recent products use USB ports for PC display output. While USB was not originally intended as a display interface, demand has emerged for an easier way (easier than using a D-Sub cable) to set up multi-monitor environments, particularly for laptops and low-priced netbooks.

Most such products are adapters, which connect to the PC using USB and feature DVI-D or DVI-I connectors on the output side. These are then connected to LCD monitors. After the user installs a device driver, the PC recognizes the adapter as a monitor adapter. Users can create a multi-monitor environment in Windows by activating the secondary monitor connected to the adapter in Display Properties. In terms of display performance, these adapters are not well suited to uses that require high-speed response; they are associated with slight delays in reflecting mouse or keyboard operations.

A small number of LCD monitors on the market use USB as a video input interface, making it possible to output and display a PC screen through a USB connection between the PC and the LCD display. These, too, are ideal for laptops and netbooks, since they allow users to use laptops connected to large-screen LCD monitors at their office desks or at home, then use the laptops for mobile use when out and about simply by unplugging a single USB cable.

What to expect from the iPhone SE 4? Leaks suggest hole shaped cut-out, 6.1-inch LCD screen, and more Notifications New User posted their first comment this is comment text Approve Reject & ban Delete Logout What to expect from the iPhone SE 4 Leaks suggest hole shaped cut-out 6 1-inch LCD screen and more  The iPhone XR, its design will be adopted by the SE 4 (Image via Apple) The iPhone SE 3 was released in March of this year and comes with a 4.7-inch screen which is considered fairly small by present standards. The SE series from Apple is more budget oriented and cuts corners in features by removing face ID and saving costs. The next iPhone SE, the 4th generation, is rumored to be significantly different from its predecessors and packs a larger 6.1-inch LCD screen. Moreover, if you were a fan of the iPhone XR, the good news is that the next iPhone SE will be adopting the same design, according to leaks. Other leaks and rumors about the device have been rounded up in this article. The notch in the iPhone SE will still prevail as the design is borrowed from an older Apple device A concept design of the SE 4 (Image via MacRumors) Both the 2nd generation and 3rd gen iPhone SE smartphones are modeled after the iPhone 8, with identical sizes and shapes, both weighing 148 grams. The only difference between the two SE models is the internals, with the 3rd generation version rocking the A15 Bionic chipset and the camera from the , among other improvements. The 2nd gen model was released back in 2020,

with the 3rd gen making its appearance two years later. It is speculated that will be following the same 2-year cycle, and will be releasing the 4th generation SE model in the first quarter of 2024. The upcoming SE model is still not expected to have a Face ID sensor as Apple will be looking for ways to reduce costs and continue selling their budget smartphones at competitive prices. We now hear the next LCD iPhone will be introduced in 2022 and called the SE Plus with the same 4.7" LCD as the 8 along with 5G. We hear the iPhone SE3 with a 5.7" - 6.1" LCD is now pushed to 2024. Apple LCD iPhone leak, we now hear the next LCD iPhone SE will remain at 4.7" in 2022. Some rumors that it may have 5G with Sub-6 GHz as well. Also hearing about a 6.1" version in 2023 with punch hole rather than a notch.Apple LCD iPhone leak, we now hear the next LCD iPhone SE will remain at 4.7" in 2022. Some rumors that it may have 5G with Sub-6 GHz as well. Also hearing about a 6.1" version in 2023 with punch hole rather than a notch.We now hear the next LCD iPhone will be introduced in 2022 and called the SE Plus with the same 4.7" LCD as the 8 along with 5G. We hear the iPhone SE3 with a 5.7" - 6.1" LCD is now pushed to 2024. , an appealing feature that was introduced on Apple"s latest iPhone devices, has the potential to be included in the next SE device. The company could slightly change the design of the iPhone XR and include a hole-shaped cutout for the front camera instead of a notch to make Dynamic Island possible. As

there will be no Face ID, the limited space for front-facing sensors will not be an issue. Instead of Face ID, Apple will be going back to Touch ID. However, as there is no space on the bottom bezel of the iPhone XR, Touch ID will likely be implemented as a side button on the SE model, similar to the iPad Air and iPad Mini. The 2nd generation SE model was launched at a starting price of $399, while the price of the 3rd generation model was bumped by $30, to $429. A similar trend can be anticipated with the release of the 4, and consumers can expect a starting price of $449 to $479. Poll : 0 votes Quick Links More from Sportskeeda Thank You! Show More Comments No thanks Delete Cancel Update Reply ❮ ❯ No thanks Delete Cancel Update Reply ❮ ❯ Be the first one to comment on this story More from Sportskeeda Fetching more content... 1 Logout No Results Found.

6 Better Exercises than Burpees for Fat Loss × Follow Us Create Notifications New User posted their first comment this is comment text Link Approve Reject & ban Delete Log in Manage your profile Editing Story Queue

Disheeta Maheshwari Modified 28 Sep 2022 Follow Us Comment Share Burpee alternatives for fat loss (Image via Pexels/Anna Tarazevich) Burpees are quite popular and are a common exercise for fat loss, as they provide a full body exercise by engaging multiple muscles simultaneously. Burpees also provide benefits like building muscular endurance, toning the body, burning calories, and more. Doing the same exercise over time can lead to monotony, and the same goes for burpees too. Several exercises provide similar benefits to burpees and can be easily included in your workout routine. View this post on Instagram Instagram Post

1 Jumping Jack Jumping jack is a popular exercise for fat loss. The simple movement it entails make it a better alternative to burpees. This exercise help in burning calories and torch fat. How to do it?

Start off in an elongated standing position with an upright back, hands by the sides, and both feet together.Jump or hop to the side with both legs along while swinging both arms over the head while keeping them straight.Immediately jump inward again to bring your arms and legs into the starting position. Repeat.

2 Speed Skater Speed skaters can help with fat loss by engaging various muscle