hole in lcd screen quotation

If the hole is only in a thin surface film, you might be able to press it flat, but if the film has been distorted (stretched), it probably won"t stay flat. You might find that over time, the film may flatten a little on its own. I would not try to soften it with heat because some plastics will shrink and shrivel, making it worse and eliminating any chance for improvement.

If it is a puncture hole that extends into other plastic layers, you will not be able to flatten the raised rim of the hole without damaging a bigger area.

In terms of filling the hole, that is also likely to make it worse and if not, probably won"t improve it. It also depends on the purpose of the surface film and the cause of the bright spot. If it is an anti-glare film,the bright spot may be the next layer. Anything that is not anti-glare film will be a similarly non-diffusing surface. If the filler doesn"t have the same refractive index as the next layer, it may create cloudiness or distortion that will also be noticeable.

Filling the hole with something like what is used to fill holes in car windshields is likely to make it much worse. That material is similar to superglue. It may etch the surface. It may wick under the film and damage a large area. The fumes may etch the surface over a large area.

Similarly, trying to glue down the surface film may wick under the film and mess up a large area. If you use an adhesive that doesn"t wick, you would need a way to compress the film flat until it cures to avoid a permanent bump. Material thick enough not to wick is likely to leave a raised area. The screen sandwich is manufactured using tightly stretched sheets of material that are compressed together and bonded under pressure. It is not a condition you can reproduce to repair a spot.

There isn"t a practical way to actually repair it, but can you make it less noticeable? A number of people responded with ideas based on the principle that a dark spot may be less noticeable than a bright spot. You could potentially make it a little less noticeable, but it"s a question of how much improvement can you achieve and at what risk.

No matter what you do, it will still be noticeable. Maybe a darker spot won"t bother you as much if you get it right. But there is a good chance of achieving little or no net improvement, and a substantial risk of making the situation worse in a non-fixable way.

Anything hard, like a pencil or pen tip, can nudge more film loose, making the hole bigger. Any liquid can wick under the film, leaving a big stained area. Assume permanent markers that will stick to the film will be permanent, whether or not it turns out to be an improvement.

Don"t count on a redo or cleanup, because cleaning fluids, including any dissolved materials, can wick under the film, and rubbing is likely to make the hole bigger. So if you don"t get it as good as you"re going to get it on the first try, you have a good chance of making the problem permanently worse.

Now that you"ve been forewarned, if you are determined to try this, here"s an approach I would try if it was a last resort (disclaimer, I"ve never tested it, but it seems like the least risky alternative). Practice the procedure first on something else to get the feel for how things behave and how much working time you have. Work with a magnifier and good light so you can see what you"re doing. Do the procedure with the screen lying face up and level.

Use a very viscous sticky material with temporary adhesion, like rubber cement for paper. Use an extremely fine-tipped brush, or be extremely gentle with a toothpick, to apply a thin layer to the hole, being careful not to get it anywhere else (not getting it anywhere else is more important than perfectly filling the hole).

While it is still tacky, dust on some dry powdered graphite using a pinpoint applicator (sold in hardware stores as a lock lubricant). Use a soft brush and blowing, while protecting the hole, to remove any graphite that lands outside the hole (you can clean the rest of the screen as you normally would, just be careful to avoid the hole). If you"ve made the problem worse, you may be able to carefully peel this filler off when it dries.

If the hole bothers you so much that you are ready to replace the screen or buy a new monitor, you don"t have much to lose by attempting these measures (other than possibly not having the monitor as a backup in the latter case). Otherwise, consider whether the risks outweigh the minor potential improvement.

Unfortunately, this is one of those problems where the best solution may be to change how you view the problem. You"re aware of the hole, which serves as a constant reminder. Instead of letting the hole bother you, think about how much money you will save by simply living with it. Every time your eye is drawn to it, remind yourself of the savings from not buying a replacement monitor. :-)

@JamesTrotter We don"t have that problem here. And if we do, they are usually locked with a stronger steel lock, going around the screen and on a hole on "specially-made" horizontal computer cases. (I have it between quotes because those are pretty much standard cases, but have a bit of metal with a hole, where the cable goes through.) The cable is then attached to the table/desk. I had these at school and saw a bank with these too.

Most items that attach to a screen or monitor (paper holders, web cams, filters, etc.) will use some kind of adhesive to hold in place. Some could be magnetic. If you have some device that requires drilling a hole for mounting, then you have something that should not be used around a display. Don"t attempt this! As others have said, a hole in an LCD would be death to the LCD. Drilling somewhere close means you risk hitting the wrong spot.

I am trying to get a feeler for this one. I am slowly in the process of making a DSP based pedal effect. Since the DSP pedal realistically needs to have an LCD screen to navigate the program, a hole for a SD card drive and USB drive, I need a professional quick but cheap way to cut straight square holes. I know the best solution would be a metal cutting CNC router but that is a little too expensive and I really don"t have the room for even a small one. It has to be professional looking and easy enough for production runs so no nibblers or dremels are out of the question. What kind of tools are available? I was looking at routers but I can"t seem to think of a way to set up a jig that could make a hole accurate within a fraction of a millimeter.

Also, where is the best place to get an internal SD card reader that you see in rackmount units and keyboards? Everything I am finding on the net are the 3.5in drives for PCs.

As often as you use your smartphone, it’s almost inevitable that you’ll eventually drop it. You may be extremely careful, but it only takes one fumble for your phone to tumble. While iPhone screens are designed to withstand impact, you might still end up with a shattered screen.

The good news: a broken screen doesn’t mean your phone is kaput. In fact, if only the glass is broken, the fix is quick and inexpensive. The bad news: if the LCD screen is broken, you’re looking at a pricier repair.

If you’ve looked into replacement parts, you’ve likely come across two very different options: a glass screen, and an LCD screen. While the first option is cheap, the second is definitely not. Here’s the difference:

1. The glass screen is the exterior layer on your phone’s display. While it is specially engineered for durability, it’s still just glass (between layers of plastic film), which is why it’s not very pricey to replace.

Most of the time, the damage to your screen will be pretty obvious. You’ll see the spider web patterns of shattered glass across the front of your iPhone. Occasionally, however, the glass screen will be intact, and you might not realize the damage until you try to use it. Whether the damage is visible or not, it’s a good idea to run a quick diagnostic to determine the extent of it.

If you encounter any of these problems, you’re dealing with a broken LCD screen. If the glass is shattered, but the display is clear and touch capability is working, that’s a good sign. The problem is probably just the glass screen.

Whether you’re dealing with cracked glass or a broken LCD screen, you can find a quick, reliable repair service at FastPhoneRepair.com. Our qualified technicians will get your iPhone repaired and up and running again in record time and at reasonable rates.

Responsible for performing installations and repairs (motors, starters, fuses, electrical power to machine etc.) for industrial equipment and machines in order to support the achievement of Nelson-Miller’s business goals and objectives:

• Perform highly diversified duties to install and maintain electrical apparatus on production machines and any other facility equipment (Screen Print, Punch Press, Steel Rule Die, Automated Machines, Turret, Laser Cutting Machines, etc.).

• Provide electrical emergency/unscheduled diagnostics, repairs of production equipment during production and performs scheduled electrical maintenance repairs of production equipment during machine service.

Second, it should be said that this little 5-inch monitor is a mechanically handsome contraption ---- very simple and direct in its shape and overall function ---- or to put it another way, it actually is kind of cute.

BUT, third, the user interface on this little 5-inch monitor is just AWFUL, and it really doesn"t help that the so-called instructions are so completely USELESS ---- the instructions are printed on a single, tiny piece of folded up paper, and they are "written" in broken, nonsensical English ---- honestly, the instructions are a word salad with a cup of alphabet soup ---- just throw them away.

This monitor has 5 buttons that are used to control everything, from turning it on and off, selecting an input, and navigating its menu system to set various parameters. Unfortunately, these 5 buttons are "modal" in nature, in that their function changes completely, depending on whether the menu is being displayed, or not. So, when the menu is being displayed, the power button and the input selection button no longer perform those functions ---- and this is something that takes a bit of time to understand, and to get used to, because, again, the so-called instructions are of no help, whatsoever.

So, remember, when the menu is being displayed, the power button and the input select buttons become just another pair of selection buttons (just like the "+" and "-") buttons ---- they become the buttons by which you select which menu page you want, and they become the buttons by which you select which menu item you want within a menu page once you"re within a menu page. In many of the menu pages, the "+" and the "-" buttons are used to increase or decrease numeric values, but then they behave differently when it comes to selecting from among non-numeric items.

This menu system with the modal nature of the 5 buttons is made even more maddening to use by the fact that the buttons are on the back side where you can"t see them when you"re looking at the menus, and also by the fact that the default amount of time during which the menu stays on the display when you"re not pressing any buttons (i.e., the "timeout") is only 5 seconds. Really? 5 seconds? Who thought this was a good idea?

So, I have two recommendations when trying to use the menu system... 1) make a diagram on paper of what button does what, from top to bottom, so that you have some kind of visual guide that you can actually see side-by-side with the screen, and 2) before you worry about changing any other setting, go straight to the setting for "timeout" and change it from 5 seconds to "off" so that the menu never times out ---- this second step will remove all of the time pressure for always needing to beat a clock whenever you"re working with the menu system.

Suggestions to the manufacturer: 1) rework the functions performed by the buttons when using the menu system to make the button functions more intuitive, 2) get someone who can actually write in English to write your instructions, and don"t be so stingy about the amount of paper needed, 3) either put the buttons on the front, or put labels on the front that coincide with the positions of the buttons on the back so that no one has to try to remember their functions, and 4) make 60 seconds of "off" the default value for the "timeout" function so that someone who is trying to familiarize themselves with this thing actually has the time they need to do so.

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