raspberry pi tft display gpio pricelist

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HyperPixel 4.0 is the perfect way to use your Pi without a bunch of cables or a bulky display. Design your own interface to control your project, display data, or turn your Pi into a tiny media centre.

This new version of HyperPixel has a gorgeous IPS display, with wide viewing angles, custom-made cover glass (on the touch version), and the alternate I2C interface is broken out for advanced users.

Note that the images of the displays on this page have not been Photoshopped. That"s the Raspberry Pi OS desktop with our HyperPixel wallpaper on! (click here to download our HyperPixel wallpaper)

HyperPixel uses a high-speed DPI interface, allowing it to shift 5x more pixel data than the usual SPI interface that these small Pi displays use. It has a 60 FPS frame rate and a resolution of approximately 235 pixels per inch (800x480) on its 4.0" display. The display can show 18-bits of colour (262,144 colours).

The Touch version has a capacitive touch display that"s more sensitive and responsive to touch than a resistive touch display, and it"s capable of multi-touch!

Everything comes fully-assembled, and there"s no soldering required! The display is securely stuck down to the HyperPixel 4.0 PCB and connected via a neat little flush-mounting FPC cable. Just pop HyperPixel 4.0 on your Pi and run our installer to get everything set up!

Please note: when installing HyperPixel 4.0 onto your Pi make sure not to press down on the screen surface! Hold the board by its edges and wiggle it to mate with the extended header (or GPIO header). Also take care not to pull on the edges of the glass display when removing your HyperPixel.

It"ll work with any 40-pin version of the Pi, including Pi Zero and Pi Zero W. If you"re using it with a larger Pi then use the extra 40-pin header that"s included to boost it up to the required height. If you"re using a Zero or Zero W then just pop it straight onto the GPIO.

The included standoff kit allows you to mount your HyperPixel 4.0 safely and securely to your Pi. Just screw them into the posts on the underside of the HyperPixel 4.0 PCB and then secure with screws through the mounting holes on your Pi.

Raspberry Pi OS Bullseye includes major changes to how DPI display drivers work. If you"re using an image dated 04/04/2022 or later, it will come with Hyperpixel drivers baked in and you don"t need to run the installer. You can set up display and touch by adding a few lines to your boot/config.txt:

If you"re using Raspberry Pi OS Buster/Legacy (or an earlier version), you can use our one-line-installer to configure your Pi properly for HyperPixel 4.0 and to enable the touch screen on the touch version. Note that you"ll need another display, keyboard, and mouse to install the software, or you could do it remotely over SSH if you follow our guide on how to set your Pi up headlessly.

HyperPixel uses basically all of the GPIO pins to communicate with the Pi (including the standard I2C pins) so it"s not generally possible to use it with other HATs and devices that connect via the GPIO...

...but we have provided an alternate I2C interface broken out on the back that will let you use I2C devices (like sensor breakouts) at the same time as HyperPixel. There are instructions how to set this up in our Hyperpixel 4.0 tutorial.

A number of people have used a Motorola Atrix Lapdock to add a screen and keyboard with trackpad to RasPi, in essence building a RasPi-based laptop computer. Lapdock is a very clever idea: you plug your Atrix smart phone into Lapdock and it gives you an 11.6" 1366 x 768 HDMI monitor with speakers, a keyboard with trackpad, two USB ports, and a large enough battery for roughly 5 hours of use. The smart phone acts as a motherboard with "good enough" performance. The advantage over a separate laptop or desktop computer is that you have one computing device so you don"t need to transfer files between your phone and your desk/laptop.

Unfortunately for Motorola, Lapdock was not successful (probably because of its US$500 list price) and Motorola discontinued it and sold remaining stock at deep discounts, with many units selling for US$50-100. This makes it a very attractive way to add a modest size HDMI screen to RasPi, with a keyboard/trackpad and rechargeable battery power thrown in for free.

Lapdock has two connectors that plug into an Atrix phone: a Micro HDMI D plug for carrying video and sound, and a Micro USB plug for charging the phone and connecting to the Lapdock"s internal USB hub, which talks to the Lapdock keyboard, trackpad, and two USB ports. With suitable cables and adapters, these two plugs can be connected to RasPi"s full-size HDMI connector and one of RasPi"s full-size USB A ports.

The RasPi forum has a long thread on Lapdock with many useful suggestions, photos, and links: I made a Raspberry PI Laptop. There"s also a good "blog entry at element14 with photos and suggestions of where to get cables and adapters: Raspberry Pi Laptop. TechRepublic has a tear-down article with photos of Lapdock internal components here: Cracking Open the Motorola Droid Bionic Lapdock. Paul Mano has a wealth of photos of Lapdock innards at Motorola Atrix Lapdock mod projects.

Lapdock uses the HDMI plug to tell if a phone is plugged in by seeing if the HDMI DDC/CEC ground pin is pulled low. If it"s not, Lapdock is powered off. As soon as you plug in a phone or RasPi, all the grounds short together and Lapdock powers itself on. However, it only does this if the HDMI cable actually connects the DDC/CEC ground line. Many cheap HDMI cables do not include the individual ground lines, and rely on a foil shield connected to the outer shells on both ends. Such a cable will not work with an unmodified Lapdock. There is a detailed "blog entry on the subject at element14: Raspberry Pi Lapdock HDMI cable work-around. The "blog describes a side-benefit of this feature: you can add a small power switch to Lapdock so you can leave RasPi attached all the time without draining the battery.

The Lapdock Micro USB plug is the upstream port of Lapdock"s internal USB hub, and connects to one of RasPi"s full-size USB ports. Lapdock is not USB compliant since it provides upstream power on its Vbus pin. Lapdock uses this to charge the Atrix phone. You can use this feature to power RasPi if you have a newer RasPi. The original RasPi rev 1 has 140 mA polyfuses F1 and F2 to protect the USB ports, which are too small for powering RasPi using upstream power. Newer RasPis replace F1 and F2 with zero Ohm jumpers or eliminate them entirely, which allows Lapdock to provide power. If you don"t mind modifying your original RasPi, you can add shorting jumpers over F1 and F2 or replace them with higher-current fuses.

What gets powered on depends on whether Lapdock is open or closed. If it"s open, the screen and all Lapdock USB ports are powered. If you close Lapdock, the screen and full-size USB ports are powered down, but the Micro USB still provides upstream power. This is for charging an Atrix phone. When you open or close Lapdock, the Micro USB power switches off for about a second so if your RasPi is connected it will reboot and you may have a corrupted file system. There"s discussion about this at the RasPi forum link, and someone has used a supercapacitor to work around the problem: Raspberry Pi lapdock tricks.

When you do not connect a HDMI monitor, the GPU in the PI will simply rescale (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_scaling) anything that would have appeared on the HDMI screen to a resolution suitable for the TV standard chosen, (PAL or NTSC) and outputs it as a composite video signal.

The Broadcom BCM2835 only provides HDMI output and composite output. RGB and other signals needed by RGB, S-VIDEO or VGA connectors are however not provided, and the R-PI also isn"t designed to power an unpowered converter box.

Note that any conversion hardware that converts HDMI/DVI-D signals to VGA (or DVI-A) signals may come with either an external PSU, or expects power can be drawn from the HDMI port. In the latter case the device may initially appear to work, but there will be a problem, as the HDMI specs only provide in a maximum of 50mA (@ 5 Volt) from the HDMI port, but all of these adapters try to draw much more, up-to 500mA, in case of the R-PI there is a limit of 200mA that can be drawn safely, as 200mA is the limit for the BAT54 diode (D1) on the board. Any HDMI to VGA adapter without external PSU might work for a time, but then burn out D1, therefore Do not use HDMI converters powered by the HDMI port!

The solution is to either only use externally powered converters, or to replace D1 with a sturdier version, such as the PMEG2010AET, and to replace the power input fuse F3 with a higher rated one, as the current one is only 700mA, and the adapter may use 400mA itself. Also notice that the R-PI"s power supply also must be able to deliver the extra current.

Alternatively, it may be possible to design an expansion board that plugs into the LCD headers on the R.Pi. Here is something similar for Beagleboard:

The schematics for apples iPhone 3gs and 4g suggest they speak DSI, thus they can probably be connected directly. The older iPhones use a "Mobile Pixel Link" connection from National Semiconductor. The 3GS panel (480×320) goes as low as US $14.88, while the 4G one (960×640, possibly the LG LH350WS1-SD01, with specifications) can be had for US $17.99 or as low as US $14.28. The connectors used might be an issue, but this connector might fit. Additional circuitry might be necessary to provide the display with required 1.8V and 5.7V for operation, and an even higher voltage for the backlight.

The Raspberry Pi provides one clock lane and two data lanes on the S2 connector, as can be read from the schematics. It is currently unknown whether this is enough to drive the iPhone 4G screen, as that screen seems be driven with three data lanes in its original application.

I2C/SPI ADC can be used to interface 4 pin resistive Touch Screens, For example STMPE812A. Texas Instruments has a solution for 4 or 8 wire touchscreens using their rather cheap MSP4309.

Parallel interface displays can be found in many sizes, usually up to 7" and more. Parallel interfaces are usually 8 or 16-bits wide (sometimes 18 or 24-bit wide), plus some control-lines. The Raspberry Pi P1-connector does not contain enough GPIOs for 16-bit wide parallel displays, but this could be solved by borrowing some GPIOs from the CSI-connector or from P5 (on newer Raspberry Pis). Alternatively, some additional electronics (e.g. shift-registers or a CPLD) can be used, which could also improve the framerate or lower the CPU-load.

AdvaBoard RPi1: Raspberry Pi multifunction extension board, incl. an interface and software for 3.2"/5"/7" 16-bit parallel TFT-displays incl. touchscreen with up to 50 frames/s (3.2", 320x240)

Texy"s 2.8" TFT + Touch Shield Board: HY28A-LCDB display with 320 x 240 resolution @ 10 ~ 20fps, 65536 colors, assembled and tested £24 plus postage, mounts on GPIO pins nicely matching Pi board size, or via ribbon cable

There are two ways of connecting a display to a Raspberry Pi - via the HDMI port or the GPIO pins/DSI cable. Depending on your project you may want to go one way or the other, to free up those valuable GPIO pins or have something compact and cable-free.

This section contains all of our GPIO and DSI connected Raspberry Pi displays. Almost every display here is connected via your Raspberry Pi GPIO pins, which usually means they"re more compact and remove the need to use an HDMI cable - which can keep your project nice and tidy when fitting into an enclosure or similar.

GPIO-connected Raspberry Pi displays aren"t always small either, we have GPIO/DSI screens ranging from ~2" up to ~7", giving you more choice and flexibility for your project.

You’ve been incredibly patient: thank you. The official Raspberry Pi touch display is on sale today, priced at $60 (plus local taxes and shipping): you can buy it at RS Components/Allied Electronics and at Premier Farnell/Newark. Other sellers will be receiving stock later this week.

Two years ago, I began the process of looking for a simple, embeddable display for the Raspberry Pi. I honestly believed it would only take us six months from start to end, but there were a number of issues we met (and other products diverted our attention from the display – like Rev 2.1, B+, A+, and Pi 2). But we’ve finally got there, and I thought you might be interested in learning about our journey.

HDMI is the system we all know and love, it allows us to communicate with monitors up to 4K and has a relatively low signal swing to reduce EMI. There are lots of other very useful bits of the specification such as CEC (a communication channel between the TV and the Pi that allows us to receive input from the TV), EDID (a method of automatically identifying the different formats the TV supports) and a hotplug signal allow the Pi to know when you plug in the cable. The only problem with HDMI is that the electronics required to convert from HDMI to the native panel interface can be quite expensive.

DPI (Display Parallel Interface) is a 24-bit parallel interface with a clock and various synchronisation signals totalling 28 signals, all of which switch at a rate of around 70MHz. This interface has been phased out of tablets/phones because the electromagnetic noise created and power consumed by all those wires. Although it is possible to directly talk to a DPI display through the GPIO connector on a Raspberry Pi it would leave no GPIOs left for people to connect other HATs. DPI displays are available everywhere though, and are relatively cheap!

DSI (Display serial interface) is a high-speed serial interface based on a number of (1GBits) data lanes. The total voltage swing of the data lines is only 200mV; this makes the electromagnetic noise created and power consumed very low. Unfortunately, DSI displays are only really created and sold for special purposes (i.e. when a mobile phone manufacturer wants to make a new phone), and although they can be available to buy, manufacture of the devices is subject to the lifetime of the phone!

DBI (Display Bus Interface) is an old display technology that usually has inbuilt frame storage to reduce tearing, due to the memory and hardware it makes DBI screens expensive.

So our solution to this problem was to employ both DSI (to avoid using up all the GPIOs) and DPI (easily available screens in suitable resolutions) and a bridge chip/conversion board to convert between the two.

Of course lifetime is one of the most important requirements, because if a display only has a lifetime of a few months (or the manufacturer is uninterested in guaranteeing a minimum lifetime), we would have to repeat the whole development cycle once more. So we can’t just buy a display that’s used in your standard iDevice, because it is likely to be cancelled when the iCompany decides to move to another manufacturer!

When looking for a device, we needed to look for what are termed ‘Industrial’ LCD displays. These tend to have better-quality metrics and guaranteed availability.

Our first PCB to do the DSI to DPI conversion was completed back in mid-2013. The board used a Toshiba bridge chip to convert the DSI signals to DPI ones. I spent quite a bit of time getting the Raspberry Pi to talk to the bridge device, and then got it working and displaying an image (yay). We then took it to our local EMC test facility to investigate how easy it would be to pass CE and FCC electromagnetic compliance.

When electrical currents flow around a circuit board, they create electro-magnetic fields, which can be picked up by other electronic devices. Maybe you remember what used to happen to your CRT television when your mum turned on the hoover (sorry for those of you without any experience of analogue television). This was becoming a problem for television and radio receivers; when I was a kid and plugged in my Spectrum 48K, the radio wouldn’t work properly any more. So the powers that be introduced new rules about the amount of energy a device can output at various frequencies from 25MHz up to a couple of GHz. You have to make sure your electronic devices do not cause interference, and are not susceptible to electronic interference.

Unfortunately, DPI is 1.8V signal swing, and although much slower, it needs 28 signal wires, meaning 28x more paths with the same edges switching up and down at the same time. This gives us an output looking something like:

The next step was to understand why the EMI is so bad, so we tried redesigning the board so it looks like a HAT (it’s not actually a HAT because there is no EEPROM for device tree information), and added an Atmel device to control the power/reset and PWM for the backlight. We also went through three different iterations of adding chokes to improve the noise conducting down the power supply cable, and manipulating the route of the DPI signals to improve the path of the ground return.

The first displays are supplied as a kit which requires some initial construction. Alex Eames from RasPi.TV has helpfully provided a video showing how to do it.

The display module integrates the LCD display with a conversion board that should be plugged into the Raspberry Pi through the display connector. Be aware that the connector is the same as the camera connector, but the two are not compatible, so be careful to correctly identify the display connector first.

The 15-way FPC connector should already be plugged into the display conversion board with the silvered contacts face-up. You can then plug the connector into the Raspberry Pi with the silvered connectors inboard (facing towards the USB connectors).

Attach an official 2A Raspberry Pi power supply to the display board “PWR IN” connector, then attach a standard uUSB connector from the “PWR OUT” connector to the Raspberry Pi.

The Raspberry Pi will now automatically detect the display and use it as the default display (rather than HDMI), although HDMI will still be initialised. If you’d prefer for the HDMI display to stay as default then add:

It is possible to use both display outputs at the same time, but it does require software to choose the right display. Omxplayer is one application that has been modified to enable secondary display output.

Please note, you may need to increase the amount of memory allocated to the GPU to 128MB if the videos are 1080P, adjust the gpu_mem value in config.txt for this. The Raspberry Pi headline figures are 1080P30 decode, so if you are using two 1080P clips it may not play correctly depending on the complexity of the videos.

The Raspberry Pi display has an integrated 10-point touchscreen (a bit of an overkill, but it does seem to work well). The driver for this touchscreen outputs both standard mouse events and full multi-touch events, and therefore can work with X as a mouse (although not brilliantly – X was never designed to work with a touchscreen!).

Kivy is a Python GUI development system for cross-platform applications. It is designed to work with touchscreen devices (phones and tablets), but also runs on the Raspberry Pi. To install Kivy onto your Pi follow the instructions at

From the videos you can see how capable the interface is. I’m in the process of developing a touchscreen application for an installation at home to control a safety and heating monitoring system, so you’ll probably hear more about that at some point!

Last of all, if you’d like a stand for your display, you could do a lot worse than to take a look at the 3D-printed one that Matt Timmons-Brown has designed; we like it a lot. You’ll find his model on Thingiverse.

This 5" Touch Screen Hat connects to your Raspberry Pi"s HDMI port for video and GPIO ports for power and touch capabilities. Just place the 5" Touch Screen Shield on top of your Raspberry Pi, run the appropriate software and attach the HDMI coupler to see your desktop! Use your finger or the included stylus to move the mouse pointer on the screen!

3.2 Inch TFT LCD Touch Screen Display V4.0 for Raspberry PiFeatures320x240 hardware resolutionResistive touch controlSupports any revision of Raspberry Pi (directly-pluggable)Drivers provided (works with your own Raspbian/Ubuntu/Kali)Supports FBCP software driver as well, allows to config software r..

※Price Increase NotificationThe TFT glass cell makers such as Tianma,Hanstar,BOE,Innolux has reduced or stopped the production of small and medium-sized tft glass cell from August-2020 due to the low profit and focus on the size of LCD TV,Tablet PC and Smart Phone .It results the glass cell price in the market is extremely high,and the same situation happens in IC industry.We deeply regret that rapidly rising costs for glass cell and controller IC necessitate our raising the price of tft display.We have made every attempt to avoid the increase, we could accept no profit from the beginning,but the price is going up frequently ,we"re now losing a lot of money. We have no choice if we want to survive. There is no certain answer for when the price would go back to the normal.We guess it will take at least 6 months until these glass cell and semiconductor manufacturing companies recover the production schedule. (Mar-03-2021)

ER-TFTV043A3-3 is 480x272 pixel 4.3 inch color tft lcd display for the Raspberry Pi with optional USB port resistive or capacitive touch panel screen,optional USB cable and HDMI cable. Of course ,it is not limited to the Raspberry Pi ,it can be used for all the universal HDMI port hardwares such as mini PCs, Raspberry Pi, BB Black, Banana Pi, as well as general desktop computers.

When works with Raspberry Pi, supports Raspbian, Ubuntu, WIN10 IOT, single touch and driver free.When work as a computer monitor, supports Windows 10/8.1/8/7, five-points touch, and driver free.Multi languages OSD menu for power management,.brightness and contrast adjustment, etc.

The PiTFT+ features a 3.5" display with 480x320 16-bit color pixels and a resistive touch overlay and is engineered specifically to work with the Raspberry Pi 3, 2 and the Model A+/B+.

The display uses the hardware SPI pins as well as GPIO #25 and #24. GPIO #18 can be used to PWM dim the backlight. A 2x13 "classic" GPIO header on the bottom, with additional GPIO pins broken out into solder pads, allows you to use more of the GPIO.

The PiTFT+ can be used as a display for running the X interface, or the console. You can also have an HDMI display separately connected to complement the setup, keeping in mind that there can only be one X session running (so you"ll need to choose where X should be output, on the HDMI or the PiTFT+).