canon powershot sx10is lcd display not working manufacturer

I"ve got a good working SX10, wasn"t aware of such a problem - I like to use the LCD for tripod shots but only EVF handheld. To some extent uses and user preference matters most.

In case it"s your bridge that rotates displays (Disp button) between LCD and EVF, I"d take time to check settings and user manual to be sure that the LCD isn"t simply properly deactivated. If that"s not it, because it is a software switch, I"d try a Menu - Tools Icon - Reset All to take the camera back to its out of the box setings and try again. Only then would I look into hardware.

I have no idea about LCD replacement, but as above, would be leery of putting much money, time or trouble into a second-hand camera as old as SX10, that might have other problems, too.

The time and date stamp need to be reset every time the camera is turned on. A notice may appear to change the batteries even after the main batteries are replaced.

Make sure the battery door closes tight and that nothing is blocking the door from closing. If the door will not latch closed use this replacement guide for changing the battery door.

Unfortunatly, when I opened it, I was NOT able to dismantle the menu-turning-wheel on the backside, hence could not take off the back cover completely. If more complicated work would be necessary in the future, I"d have to work out how to take that off. Could not find any screw or anything, and didn"t want to pull too hard... Any idea?

I"ve just acquired an EOS 4000d from someone who used it only sparingly (allegedly). The first time, I was able to take a few shots, and everything looked ok; today, the LCD screen went black again and never came back. Right before that, I was trying to zoom in on a flower bud. I was unhappy with the automatic mode and switched to manual, and that"s when the blackout happened.

Kodak Q60 target: This is another target that"s perhaps not well enough controlled for quantitative measurements between cameras, but one that does have several useful characteristics nonetheless. For instance, it provides a good reference for the handling of various colors representative of common skin tones (the tan and brown patches along its right side), as well as of lighter, less-saturated tints of both additive and subtractive primaries (red, green, blue, cyan, magenta, and yellow). The MacBeth chart"s colors lean heavily toward highly saturated values, and there aren"t any pastel tones present at all. In the past, we"ve found that cameras with contrasty tone curves sometimes have trouble with the pastel tones in the Q60 target, making it a valuable reference that we"ll continue to include.

The main shots of this target above are captured at an intermediate focal length, roughly corresponding to 60mm on a 35mm camera. (Just slightly longer than "normal.") Zoom lenses often behave quite differently at wide angle and telephoto focal lengths though, so we offer below examples shot at the two extremes of the camera"s focal length range. (We"ll include these wide/tele shots for any cameras we do full reviews of, but not on cameras that receive "basic test" treatment only.)

Since the original CHDK.idc script does not run all sub scripts correctly, i use modified versions of the IDC scripts: ida-chdk-idc-dryos-singlerun.7z @ google drive. The main script CHDK.idc runs all other scripts automatically, manual definition of the ROM_START address is not required anymore (MinEA() used instead).

It seems to be an inherent software problem with the S3 that when zooming the camera shuts down. Mine started doing this within a year of purchase. The lens error on start up is due to a small electric motor that resides within the lens unit. The motor turns the plastic geared wheels which rotate the lens inner housing which extends or retracts the lens. When the motor starts to play up with age or use, the lens will not extend or retract correctly and the camera reports a lens error. If the motor stops working altogether the lens will jam and the lens unit needs to be replaced.

It is impossible to get moisture or sand or dirt in the lens since it is a sealed unit. Canon have very cleverly situated the only moving part in the camera inside the lens unit so it cannot be replaced easily. Don"t even try to open the lens unit as small screws, springs and ball bearings will explode everywhere lol. Just to give you some idea: the lens unit has no less than five optical lens inside the unit and six aligning rods and runners all assembled with engineering precision!

Credit to Canon the lens does a good job at taking photographs but the motor assembly could have been better designed. Perhaps they overcame this with later models?

My motor has now stopped working and in my opinion it is probably a good idea to upgrade your camera rather than replace the lens unit but if you can DIY or get it done for a reasonable price at a willing camera shop it might just be worth it.