arduino dht11 lcd display for sale
The data from DHT11 Sensor send to Arduino UNO and then displaying the humidity and temperature on the I2C LCD Display. Parts List Arduino UNO I2C LCD display 16x2 DHT11 Tempera…
If you do not know about DHT11, DHT22 temperature sensor and LCD (pinout, how it works, how to program ...), learn about them in the following tutorials:
The above code also work for Arduino Nano. A grandfather, who learns through this tutorial to guide his grandchild has tested this code with Arduino Nano and send us the result like below:
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I am going to show you how I made a temp and humidity sensor with an Arduino Uno. My end goal is to make one with an Attiny84 and etch a PCB for it. While I do have the parts and pieces to do this, the weather outside is not cooperating. It is hard to etch a board in my garage at less than 10 degrees Fahrenheit. That will be a different instructable for a later date.
All parts can be purchased at sparkfun or adafruit. Or you can do as I do and salvage as much as you can from old devices.Arduino (I used an UNO R3, but 5V any will work)BreadboardDHT11 temperature and humidity sensor10k ohm potentiometer16x2 LCD screentactile buttonUSB A-B cablePower BankJumper Wires
The LCD display I am using was recovered from an old fire alarm annunciator panel. Pins 15 & 16 are located before Pin 1 and instead of Pin 16 being Gnd, it is actually 5v and Pin 15 is Gnd. Please double check your own display and make sure your pins are correct. As my display pinout is most likely different from almost everybody else, I have made the Fritzing schematic with the "standard" display instead of my exact pinout.
DTH11Pin1 --> 5v and 10k ohm resistorPin2 --> Arduino Pin8 and 10k ohm resistorPin3 --> no connectionPin4 --> Gnd16x2 LCD ScreenPin1 --> GndPin2 --> 5vPin3 --> 10k ohm potentiometer wiper pin ( middle pin. the other two pins on the POT go to 5v and Gnd)Pin4 --> Arduino Pin12Pin5 --> GndPin6 --> Arduino Pin11Pin7 --> no connectionPin8 --> no connectionPin9 --> no connectionPin10 --> no connectionPin11 --> Arduino Pin5Pin12 --> Arduino Pin4Pin13 --> Arduino Pin3Pin14 --> Arduino Pin2Pin15 --> 5vPin16 --> Tactile button (other side of tack button goes to Gnd)
This tutorial explains how to read or control modules using Arduino libraries which will be very important in any project, for it not only makes the code minimalistic, it also saves precious time.
The temperature and humidity sensor is a popular Arduino project because of its practicality and of its use of inexpensive modules. Keep in mind that this project is scalable and could also be used with a DHT22 for a much more accurate reading.
The DHT11 is a 4-pin sensor used to measure temperature and ambient humidity. This sensor can measure tempareture that ranges from 0°C - 50°C (± 2°C accuracy), and can measure ambient humidity that ranges from 20% RH - 90% RH (± 5% accuracy).
The DHT11 sensor included in the Arduino Upgraded Starter Kit comes with an ADC (Analog-to-Digital Converter) so the number of pins used will be lessend to three.
The 1602 LCD module is a 16-pin device used for display purposes. It is labeled 1602 because 16 characters can be displayed in a row, and this particular module has 2 rows. In total, it can display 32 characters at once.
The 1602 LCD Module included in the Arduino Upgraded Starter Kit already has a soldered I2C Module. This is especially helpful for those with no soldering tools and those who are saving space for the pins since using an I2C module lessens the number of pins used from sixteen pins (for parallel interface) to only four (for I2C)
The potentiometer (small blue screw knob) mounted on the I2C module is used to control the contrast of the display. Turning it full counter clockwise will result in an empty display so make sure to test this out when troubleshooting later on!
This is also a default Arduino function. Any commands set here will be looped indefinitely. The showTempHumi() function is called here and it"s designed to allow the sensor to read the temperature and humidity every two seconds.
This is a function that focuses on the display. Remember to always set the command lcd.clear() in a loop so the updated temperature and humidity would show and will not simply append after the last character on the previous set.
https://store.createlabz.com/blogs/createlabz-tutorials/humidity-and-temperature-sensing-using-dht11-and-20-4-lcd-display-on-arduino-uno-1?_pos=1&_sid=5bfdb52c8&_ss=r
DHT11,temperature and humidity sensor is an advanced sensor unit that outputs a calibrated digital signal. It is highly reliable and stable over long term runs. It contains an 8 bit microprocessor and provides fast and high quality response.
DHT11 is a Humidity and Temperature Sensor, which generates calibrated digital output. DHT11 can be interface with any microcontroller like Arduino, Raspberry Pi, etc. and get instantaneous results. DHT11 is a low cost humidity and temperature sensor which provides high reliability and long term stability.
In this project, we will build a small circuit to interface Arduino with DHT11 Temperature and Humidity Sensor. One of the main applications of connecting DTH11 sensor with Arduino is weather monitoring.
We will see the circuit design of DHT11 interfacing with Arduino. The DHT11 Humidity and Temperature sensor comes in two variants: just the sensor or a module.
Coming to the design, the data pin of the DHT11 Sensor is connected to the Pin 11 of Arduino. A 16 x 2 LCD display is used to display the results. The control pins of LCD i.e. RS and E (Pins 4 and 6 on LCD) are connected to pins 4 and 5 of Arduino. The data pins of LCD i.e. D4 to D7 (pins 11 to 14 on LCD) are connected to pins 0 to 3 on LCD.
NOTE: For ease of connection, we have connected the DHT11 Sensor Module at the ICSP pins of the Arduino as it provides adjacent VCC, DATA and GND pins. This type of connection is not necessary and you can connect the data pin of sensor to normal Digital I/O pins.
DHT11 is a part of DHTXX series of Humidity sensors. The other sensor in this series is DHT22. Both these sensors are Relative Humidity (RH) Sensor. As a result, they will measure both the humidity and temperature. Although DHT11 Humidity Sensors are cheap and slow, they are very popular among hobbyists and beginners.
The DHT11 Humidity and Temperature Sensor consists of 3 main components. A resistive type humidity sensor, an NTC (negative temperature coefficient) thermistor (to measure the temperature) and an 8-bit microcontroller, which converts the analog signals from both the sensors and sends out single digital signal.
DHT11 Humidity Sensor consists of 4 pins: VCC, Data Out, Not Connected (NC) and GND. The range of voltage for VCC pin is 3.5V to 5.5V. A 5V supply would do fine. The data from the Data Out pin is a serial digital data.
The following image shows a typical application circuit for DHT11 Humidity and Temperature Sensor. DHT11 Sensor can measure a humidity value in the range of 20 – 90% of Relative Humidity (RH) and a temperature in the range of 0 – 500C. The sampling period of the sensor is 1 second i.e.
A simple project is built using Arduino UNO and DHT11 Humidity and Temperature Sensor, where the Humidity and Temperature of the surroundings are displayed on an LCD display.
After making the connections, we need not do anything as the program will take care of everything. Although there is a special library for the DHT11 module called “DHT”, we didn’t use it. If you want to use this library, you need to download this library separately and add it to the existing libraries of Arduino.
The program written is based on the data timing diagrams provided in the datasheet. The program will make the Arduino to automatically read the data from the sensor and display it as Humidity and Temperature on the LCD Display.
The digital temperature and humidity sensor DHT11 inside contains a chip that does analog to digital conversion and spits out a digital signal with the temperature and humidity, compatible with any MCUs, ideal for those who want some basic data logging stuffs. It’s very popular for electronics hobbyists because it is very cheap but still providing great performance.
In this lesson, we will first go into a little background about humidity, then we will explain how the DHT11 measures humidity. After that, we will show you how to connect the DHT11 to an OSOYOO Basic Board and give you some example code so you can use the DHT11 in your own projects.
The DHT11 measures relative humidity. Relative humidity is the amount of water vapor in air vs. the saturation point of water vapor in air. At the saturation point, water vapor starts to condense and accumulate on surfaces forming dew.
The DHT11 detects water vapor by measuring the electrical resistance between two electrodes. The humidity sensing component is a moisture holding substrate with electrodes applied to the surface. When water vapor is absorbed by the substrate, ions are released by the substrate which increases the conductivity between the electrodes. The change in resistance between the two electrodes is proportional to the relative humidity. Higher relative humidity decreases the resistance between the electrodes, while lower relative humidity increases the resistance between the electrodes.
With the plastic housing removed, you can see the electrodes applied to the substrate, an IC mounted on the back of the unit converts the resistance measurement to relative humidity. It also stores the calibration coefficients, and controls the data signal transmission between the DHT11 and the OSOYOO Basic Board :
Before you can use the DHT11 on the OSOYOO Basic Board , you’ll need to install the DHT library. It has all the functions needed to get the humidity and temperature readings from the sensor. It’s easy to install, just download the DHT.zip file and open up the Arduino IDE. Then go to Sketch>Include Library>Add .ZIP Library and select the DHT.zip file.
#include
A few seconds after the upload finishes, open the Serial Monitor, you should now see the humidity and temperature readings displayed at one second intervals.
A nice way to display the humidity and temperature readings is on a 1I2C 1602LCD. To do this, first follow our tutorial on How to Set Up an LCD Display on an Arduino, then follow below operations and complete this project.
Connect the OSOYOO Temp & Humi Module to the port D3 of the Magic I/O shield with 3-pin PNP cables and connect the OSOYOO 1602 I2C LCD Screen to the port I2C of the Magic I/O shield with 4-pin PNP cables as below:
After above operations are completed, connect the OSOYOO Basic Board to your computer using the USB cable. The green power LED (labelled PWR) should go on.Open the Arduino IDE and choose corresponding board type and port type for you project. Then load up the following sketch onto your OSOYOO Basic Board .
#include
Why did I choose the nano? Low power consumption and cheap costs! That"s about it! This component will also be the brains of everything and connect the LCD and the DHT11. You might be wondering how to power both components, luckily the nano has a 3.3v output and a 5v output (perfect!). The nano will be connected to the computer via a cable, the Arduino IDE must be set to, Board: "Arduino Nano", Processor: "ATmega328P (or the one you choose) and Port: "The one you connected to". My advice will also be to buy the pre-soldered header pin version, this costs you maybe a few cents extra, but it requires almost no soldering anymore!
Any LCD screen that you are familiar with would work since screens are screens, but for this tutorial, we will be using a 16x2 one! Also, be sure to get the I2C variant, since it reduces the jumper cables needed from 20~ to 8~, which is first of all cheaper, and secondly easier to manage, and thirdly less of a nightmare to program. Get yourself a fancy colored one or like me the basic green one. Via the Nano, we will "write" things to display!
To be fair, the DHT11 is a little less accurate and has bigger offsets, but it"s 5x as cheap as the DHT22! At the time of writing this, it cost me 2.5$ for 6 units, and 1x DHT22 costs 2.5$, and for future purposes, it"s perfect to use the DHT11. This thing will send data to the Nano, the nano will process it and you can easily write it to the LCD
Feel free to use anything you like, but Female to Female jumper cables are more than perfect, they make the build "big" and add lots of not-needed wire, but you can cut them or buy smaller ones. Basically, without these, you can"t connect the sensor to the LCD
A few years back, I created a new home automation course at Santiago Canyon College in Orange, Calif. where I taught Computer Science and Robotics. I wanted to introduce my programming students to microcontrollers so they could have some fun controlling things around their home. The students never built anything like that so I came up with a couple introductory level lab projects for them to try out. I decided to make a simple "weather station" project so they could learn how to build a circuit on a breadboard, learn to program an Arduino, and how to write some code that could read multiple sensors and display the readings on a small LCD display.
You will discover that you must have the correct Arduino libraries installed for your particular sensor. This is especially true when working with LCD displays. The one we use in this project is version 1.2 so be sure to download both the LCD and the DHT-11 temperature libraries from my websitehere. Unzip them on your desktop and copy each folder to your Documents | Arduino | Library folder. Be sure to delete any existing libraries with the same name.
Always choose wire colors that make sense to you. Use red for power, black for ground, and another color for the output of your sensors. Be very careful when you wire up the LCD. On the connector, you must connect wires to the right place. For some reason, LCD"s even from the same manufacturer have the connector pins in different positions. Look at my comments under the LCD section below to see how I wired it. I also added a closeup photo of my connections.
Notice how I added the resistors to the breadboard and how the green and yellow wires go from the LCD connector to those resistors and THEN connect to the Arduino. The SCL & SDA pins on the LCD each need a pull--up resistor or it won"t display properly! The resistors provide a small amount of current to the LCD so the Arduino signals are interpreted correctly.