how to fix a dim lcd display brands
Liquid-Crystal Displays, or LCDs, provide outstanding quality and unparalleled clarity in visual media. LCD displays come in many forms, from television sets to smartphones, having set a golden standard for entertainment and visual technology. These displays operate with common parts and often are simple to repair if they begin to dim.
Exercise caution when determining how and even if you should repair a faint LCD screen. Some screens lend themselves more easily to repair than others, while you should not attempt to repair others at all. You should handle old screens, such as classic cellphones or any older or legacy LCD screens, with great care. Consider asking a professional to help you with repairs, as you could inflict permanent damage to these items. Carelessness and ignorance can also permanently damage modern screens as well. If your screen remains under a warranty, don"t void it by opening the device. Contact your manufacturer and have the company repair it for you.
A common culprit for a dim LCD screen lies in a malfunctioning fluorescent backlight, known as a CCFL failure. Every LCD varies in construction and size, so consult your manufacturer"s documentation on how to remove any outer casing and, if necessary, the screen itself, when working with a laptop or computer monitor. Other components, such as a copper ground or an LCD controller board, may obstruct your path. Take careful note of these items and their proper locations, then gently move them out of the way until you can access the CCFL bulb. The bulb may rest in its own slot, depending on the type of screen you"re working with. On either end, gently remove the rubber caps from the old bulb and place them on the new bulb. A power cable should attach at one end and may require you to solder it in place. When complete, carefully replace the CCFL and all other components within the display module, then test your LCD display module. It should return to its former brightness.
If a new bulb did not correct the problem, other hardware issues can cause the screen to dim. Take your display module apart once again and examine the power cord that attaches to the CCFL to ensure it attaches properly. It should make contact with metal or a lead on the bulb itself and should not attach to the rubber caps which will prevent or dampen the flow of electricity to the bulb. If this does not correct your problem, instead examine your LCD"s power supply. When dealing with a TV or stand-alone monitor, this becomes vitally important. You may need only to replace a cord that plugs into an outlet. If more severe, an entire power board inside an LCD TV may require replacement. If your device no longer remains under warranty, refer to your manufacturer"s documentation for more information.
Other components can contribute to a faint display on an LCD screen, including faulty capacitors, transistors and inverters. With proper electrical equipment, such as an voltmeter, you can measure the flow of electric current through some of these components to determine proper operation. While it is possible to replace these components if you possess adequate experience, you can also permanently damage your LCD device if you make a mistake. Consider a repair shop if you do not have professional training.
Amanda Holden has more than 17 years of professional writing experience. She is trained in computer programming and computer repair, and currently holds a Bachelor of Science in physics and geology with a minor in computer science. She is pursuing her PhD at a major university. Holden writes for various websites on subjects such as computer science, technical specifications, education, science and math.
Liquid crystal displays (LCDs) are the most widely used display technology. Their applications cover TV, mobile phone, appliances, automotive, smart home, industrial meters, consumer electronics, POS, marine, aerospace, military etc. LCD screen display problem can occur for several reasons.
Effect of environmental conditions on the LCD assembly. Environmental conditions include both the effects of temperature and humidity, and cyclic loading.
Effect of manufacturing process. With the development of LCD for more than 40 years and the modern manufacturing equipment, this kind if defects are getting rear.
Common failures seen in LCDs are a decrease in screen contrast, non-functioning pixels or the whole display, and broken glass. Different kinds of LCD display problem need to have different kinds of fix methods or make the decision not worthwhile to repair.
Broken glassIf you accidently drop the LCD and you find it broken on the surface but the display still works. You might just break the touch panel; you can find a repair house or find a youtube video to replace the touch panel. If you find the display not showing, especially you find the fluid leaking out. You need to reply the whole display modules.
Dim LCD displayLCD can’t emit light itself. It uses backlight. Normally, the backlight is not fully driven, you can increase the LED backlight to make a dim LCD display brighter. But if you LCD display has been used for a long time, it is possible that the LED backlight has to be the end of life (not brightness enough) if you turn on 100% backlight brightness. In that case to fix LCD screen, you have to find a way to change the backlight. For some display, it is an easy job but it can be difficult for other displays depending on the manufacturing process.
Image sticking (Ghosting)Sometimes, you will find the previous image still appearing at the background even if you change to another image. It is also called burn in. This kind of failure doesn’t need to repair by professionals. You can simply shut off the display overnight, this kind of problem will go away. Please do remember that displaying a static image for a long time should be avoided.
With the modern manufacturing process and design, this kind of failure rarely happens. Normally, it is caused by no power. Please check if the battery dead or adapter (power supply) failure or even check if you have plug in firmly or with the wrong power supply. 99% the display will be back on.
LCD has white screen – If a LCD has a white screen which means the backlight is good. Simply check your signal input sources which are the most causes. It can also be caused by the display totally damaged by ESD or excess heat, shock which make the LCD controller broken or the connection failure which has to be repaired by professionals.
Blur ImagesAs the LCD images are made of RGB pixels, the screen shouldn’t be blur like old CRT displays. If you do see blur images, they might be caused by two reasons. 1) LCD has certain response time, if you are playing games or watch fast action movies, some old LCD displays can have image delays. 2) The surface of the LCD is made of a layer of plastic film with maximum hardness of 3H. If you clean the surface often or use the wrong detergent or solvent which cause the surface damage. To fix damage on LED screen it’s need to be changed with professionals.
If you have any questions about Orient Display displays and touch panels. Please feel free to contact: Sales Inquiries, Customer Service or Technical Support.
I have researched this problem and found that it does indeed indicate that some hardware components may be bad. The following solution seems to be effective in most cases, but it requires very fine soldering skills:
They sell the components mentioned as a kit on their website which consists of the coil, an "IC" (really this is just a diode), and 3 "filters" (capacitors). They have an excruciatingly detailed video showing how to change these parts, but the right soldering equipment is essential. They also list this kit on Ebay - search for "iPhone 5 backlight coil".
I know this is an old thread, but I had the same problem with a Toshiba laptop and found the solution. Even though I had replaced the screen and inverter, the screen was very dark and could be seen with a flashlight. Also, external monitor was perfect. The solution for me was the switch that puts the computer to sleep when the lid is closed. This switch was locked in the down position by a piece of debris. The screen will not shut off completely when this button is pressed, but it cuts power to the backlight only. Immediately after clearing the debris from the switch, it popped up and the screen came on. Subsequent pressing of the button revealed then that the backlight only is cut off.
I hope this helps someone who has found this forum by searching for the problem the way I did. I also hope that this solves any of the already-posted problems.
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LED-backlit LCD TVs typically come in one of two sub-types of panels: Vertical Alignment (VA) or In-Plane Switching (IPS). VA panels tend to have much high contrast ratios, and therefore better black uniformity. IPS panels, on the other hand, have worse contrast ratios and suffer from more backlight issues that can affect black uniformity, including "IPS glow", which is a kind of "glow" effect that can be seen in the corners of IPS screens.
LED-backlit LCD TVs are prone to black uniformity issues, but OLED TVs can produce virtually perfect blacks because their pixels are self-emitting, and therefore don"t have the same limitations caused by improper backlight implementation. That means they don"t suffer from clouding or flashlighting as LED TVs do.
Poorly designed backlight placement. The type of backlight and its position directly affects the uniformity of the screen. The worst uniformity can be found on edge-lit LED TVs, because the LEDs are only on the edge of the screen. Full-array LED TVs have good uniformity because their LEDs are spread out across the whole screen. Some edge-lit TVs have great uniformity. You can learn more about different backlights here.
Non-uniform frame pressure. Both the LCD screen and the diffuser layers are somewhat flexible. A slight difference in pressure on the frame of the television can change the uniformity of the picture. On some televisions, this can be fixed (see below).
Uneven lighting intensity. Sometimes, the intensity between two lighting components can vary in a set (for example, one LED could be slightly brighter than an LED next to it). This is less likely to happen with a brand new TV but can start appearing over time if some components age and degrade faster than others.
Flashlighting can sometimes be fixed on some televisions. If the flashlighting is caused by pressure from the TV"s frame, you can adjust it by slightly loosening or tightening the screws behind the edge of the screen. Some TVs don"t expose the screws, however, so this won"t always be possible. You should also keep in mind that a small change in the tightness of a screw can have a big impact on the uniformity of the screen, so be careful if ever you do try this step. While this can fix the issue, we don"t recommend it unless you know exactly what you"re doing, as it may cause more problems than it solves.
For clouding, there"s a pretty simple fix that—while not guaranteed—can have good results. Power on the TV and display a black image. This will allow you to see the lighter spots on the screen. Next, take a soft cloth and massage those brighter spots to improve the uniformity. You should only apply very gentle pressure, just barely touching the screen. You can also try a few different stroking patterns. If you are patient enough, this works surprisingly often, especially on edge-lit TVs, although you should be very careful to avoid damaging your screen.
Alternatively, you might consider returning or exchanging your television. Some models are more prone than others to having issues. Even within the same model, some units can have more uniformity issues than others because of slight variation in the manufacturing or shipping process. It can be worth trying to exchange it for the same model before going with an entirely different TV. Extreme cases of clouding are also covered under a TV"s warranty.
Backlight uniformity issues don"t increase over time unless a large amount of stress is put upon the panel (in the case of a big temperature swing, for instance, or if the TV is moved).
Sometimes, just letting the TV settle for a few days after unpacking it can solve the issue. This is especially true if the TV is laid on the side during shipping/moving.
Black uniformity refers to how evenly a TV can display black across the screen, especially when displaying a bright object over a dark background. It’s important when watching dark scenes in a dark room, and while most people shouldn’t notice black uniformity issues like flashlighting and clouding, they can become more apparent when the issues are especially bad. You won’t need to worry about these problems in rooms with lights on, though. For each TV, we take a photo of a black frame to capture the black uniformity, and then we calculate the color values of the pixels to find the standard deviation of the uniformity. We then do the same with local dimming enabled.
You may be able to remove flashlighting (to some degree) by tightening the screws of the TV’s frame. This can have pretty dramatic effects on the picture, though, so you should be very careful when attempting this. For clouding, gently massaging problem areas with a soft cloth often does a good job of fixing bad uniformity. In the end, the safest bet may be to simply return or exchange your TV if you can, since uniformity varies between individual units.
How long will your LED display last? In nearly every industry, from retail businesses to concert halls to corporate centers, decision makers need to evaluate the return on investment (ROI) of their LED signage. In most cases, potential buyers go straight to the obvious place: the LED manufacturer’s spec sheet. The industry standard for LED lifespan is 100,000 hours, or about 10 years, and most people assume that’s how long their display will last. But it’s not quite that simple.
The 100,000-hour figure assumes that every diode will be running at full brightness, consistently — which, on an LED screen, is virtually never the case. The lifespan figure can also be misleading because it indicates when a diode degrades to half-brightness, not completely dark. Many other variables affect an LED display’s lifespan; you can’t rely solely on the number on the diode spec sheet.
“The reality is, your screen can often last significantly longer than 100,000 hours,” says Kevin Izatt, a senior product manager in Samsung’s Display division. “We’ve had displays that have been up for 15-plus years with more than adequate brightness. Because the diode is actually only one factor in the lifespan of your LED display.”
The biggest contributor to diode degradation is heat. As you increase a diode’s brightness, it produces more heat. Your display’s physical environment also contributes to the temperature of the diodes, especially for outdoor displays.
“Let’s say you’re in Vegas — Death Valley. The diode is fine to operate at those temperatures, but it will degrade faster,” says Izatt. “Temperature is a big factor — and not one you have control over.”
The quality of your display’s power supply — and how hard it drives the diodes — can have a significant impact on your screen’s lifespan. The other components being powered, such as fans and electrical components, have their own lifespans as well, which are also impacted by the power supply.
“Fans are mechanical; they break down,” explains Izatt. “And similar to your computer, the electrical components don’t last forever. Together, these factors all contribute to the lifespan of an LED display. Looking at just the diode lifespan doesn’t give you the complete story — almost always, another part will go out first.”
“Something like airflow is very important,” says Izatt. “You need a screen that has good cooling, and a design that allows heat to flow out of the back through vents.”
It’s easy to see why: The circuit boards powering the display release heat, and that heat needs to go somewhere. Without a strong design, thermal stress will degrade the life of the display, except for the highest-quality parts — optimal conditions notwithstanding.
“Lots of variations on the color and brightness you use will impact the life of the diode,” explains Izatt. “For instance, black doesn’t use any of the diodes at all. And if your content is using lots of gray, that’s a much lower power output than white.”
That’s not to say you should hold back on displaying rich, vibrant colors — after all, that’s what LED does best. But it does factor into your product’s life expectancy.
To help businesses transition from LCD to longer-lasting LED signage, Samsung has launched a trade-in program. Samsung will come on site to remove your existing display and provide a discount on a new LED bundle kit.
Traded-in LCD displays that are still operating will be refurbished and resold, and your business will receive a cash rebate. Nonworking displays will be recycled and their parts reused.
You can’t rely on the number on the diode spec sheet; the lifespan of your LED display depends on many more factors. “Overall quality has a tremendous impact on the life of the display that diode specs just don’t take into account,” says Izatt. Your best bet is to look at the purchase holistically and invest in a top-tier product.
As you plan your LED signage rollout — or an upgrade — learn how to configure and tailor your screens’ real-time messaging with an integrated CMS in thisfree guide. And if you haven’t decided what kind of display is best suited to your current project, compare all ofSamsung’s LED displays.
If the screen flickers, make sure the display settings in Windows match the native resolution and refresh rate for the display. Find the native resolution of a flat panel display on the box, in the specifications, or in the printed material that came with the display. Some common native resolutions are 800 x 600, 1024 x 768, 1920 x 1200, and 1680 x 1050. The most common refresh rate for LCD displays is 60 Hz. This normally cannot be changed for flat panel displays using Plug and Play settings. However, if you are using special video software to increase or decrease the refresh rate, change the refresh rate to match the default refresh rate specification of the display.
If your screen flickers in Windows 10, it is usually caused by incompatible apps or display drivers. To find out whether an app or driver is causing the problem, check to see if Task Manager flickers. Then, based on that information, you"ll need to either uninstall the app or update the display driver.
Otherwise, you can get the latest updated video drivers from the video hardware manufacturer"s website. The following list shows some of the video hardware websites:
If you cannot select the native resolution after updating the video drivers, the graphics adapter in the computer might not support that resolution and might need to be upgraded.
Check the video cable connections. Unplug the cable and inspect the cable for damage. If the cable is damaged, replace it with a new cable. Try to use cables less than 3 meters (10 feet).
Check the environment around the display. Displays are sensitive to magnetic fields. Speakers, florescent lights, fans, cell phones, radios, and any other electrical device can cause flickering. Temporarily move electrical items away from the display to see if they is producing a field that causes the flicker.
To see if the video coming from the computer is causing the problem, temporarily connect the display to another computer, such as a notebook computer.
If the flicker is gone when the display is connected to another computer, the graphics adapter hardware on the first computer might need to be upgraded to use the display.
The LCD screen is vital for operating the printer. Should you encounter any kind of trouble, such as a dead screen, corrupted text, or other issues, please refer to the guide below.
First of all, unscrew the LCD screen from the printer frame, remove both M3x10 screw holding it the LCD board in the plastic casing, and remove it from the casing. See if the problem still appears when the LCD is not pressed by the casing.
Firmware updates are necessary to keep your printer up to date. However, the installation of incorrect firmware can lead to letter corruption on the LCD screen. There"s an easy fix, though:
There is a small chance the printer"s LCD screen can glitch out by electrostatic discharge when inserting the SD card. Try to turn the printer off and on again.
This problem usually appears only on user-assembled printers. If your printer"s LCD screen remains blank or displays corrupted symbols after you turn on the printer, there is a chance it is caused by incorrect wiring. Follow these steps to fix the issue.
Double-check that all cables are properly seated and they are not visibly damaged. Depending on the model of your printer, please refer to the following guides for information on how to make sure the cables are properly connected: Einsy RAMBo electronics wiring (MK3/MK3S/MK3S+) and Mini RAMBo electronics wiring (MK2S, MK2.5, MK2.5S).
If you suspect that the LCD ribbon cables connectors are not firmly seated in the slots, disconnect the LCD ribbon cables and check the slots for any bent pins. If there are bent pins, you can use tweezers to fix them. However, be very careful not to break the pin(s) completely.
If none of the above resolved the problem, turn the printer off again and try to unplug both of the cables, lay them down on a flat surface and gently stretch them. Then plug them back in and turn on the printer.
That annoying dead pixel on your TFT, OLED, or LCD screen might just be stuck and easy to fix. We"ll show you how to do it. You can still return your monitor if this doesn"t work; nothing we recommend here will void your warranty.
Yes, you should test any new monitor for bad pixels. You can simply run your screen through a palette of basic colors, as well as black and white in full-screen mode using a tool like EIZO Monitor Test.
EIZO Monitor Test is an online tool that lets you find and eventually fix stuck pixels. It packs many options into a single test window, but it"s easy to use once you have an overview.
To test your screen, check all the boxes you want to include in your test. We recommend the default setting of having all boxes checked. If you"re testing multiple monitors, you can open the test on an additional monitor. When you"re ready, click Start test to launch the full-screen test window.
Below you see the first test pattern. Each screen has an explainer in the bottom right detailing what you should look for. Next, you"ll see a menu that lets you go from one test to the next on the left. Move through the black and white screens and all the solid colors (green, blue, and red) and check our screen. To exit, press the ESC key or the exit symbol in the top right.
This is a very thorough test not only meant to identify bad pixels but also powerful enough to test the quality of your monitor. Unfortunately, with Flash no longer supported by most browsers, you"ll probably have to use the executable version to make it work.
Move the mouse to the top of the test window, and a menu will appear. There is an info window that you can turn off with a button in the top right corner of the menu. Then click on the Homogenuity test point and move through the three colors as well as black and white.
Fingers crossed, you won"t discover anything out of the ordinary. In the unfortunate case that you do, let"s see whether it"s a stuck or a dead pixel and what you can do about it.
A stuck pixel, sometimes wrongfully referred to as a hot pixel, is defective because it receives incomplete information. Hence, it appears in one of the colors that its three sub-pixels can form, i.e., red, green, or blue. Strictly speaking, hot pixels only appear in digital cameras when electrical charges leak into the camera"s sensor wells. Sometimes, stuck pixels fix themselves.
In a dead pixel, all sub-pixels are permanently off, which will make the pixel appear black. The cause could be a broken transistor. In rare cases, however, even a black pixel may just be stuck.
Unfortunately, you can"t fix a dead pixel. You can, however, fix a stuck pixel. As I explained above, it"s hard to tell the two apart. Either way, these are the methods you can try:
Finally, you can try a manual method that involves rubbing the stuck pixel with a damp cloth or a pointy but soft item, like the rubber/eraser at the end of a pencil.
The tool will load a black browser window with a square of flashing pixels. Press the green button in the bottom right to go full-screen. Drag the flashing square to where you found the stuck pixel and leave it there for at least 10 minutes.
UDPixel, also known as UndeadPixel, is a Windows tool. It can help you identify and fix pixels using a single tool. The program requires the Microsoft .NET Framework. If you"re not on Windows or don"t want to install any software, scroll down for the online tools below.
Should you spot a suspicious pixel, switch to the Undead pixel side of things, create sufficient amounts of flash windows (one per stuck pixel), and hit Start. You can drag the tiny flashing windows to where you found odd pixels.
The PixelHealer lets you flash a combination of black, white, all basic colors, and a custom color in a draggable window with customizable size. You can even change the flashing interval and set a timer to close the app automatically.
Let it run through all colors in Auto mode to spot whether you have any weird pixels on your screen. If you do, start the fix, which will rapidly flash your entire screen with black, white, and basic color pixels.
Should none of these tools resolve your stuck or dead pixel issue, here is one last chance. You can combine any of the tools detailed above and the magic power of your own hands. There is a very good description of all available techniques on wikiHow. Another great step-by-step guide can be found on Instructables.
This works because, in a stuck pixel, the liquid in one or more of its sub-pixels has not spread equally. When your screen"s backlight turns on, different amounts of liquid pass through the pixel to create different colors. When you apply pressure, you"re forcing the liquid out, and when you release the pressure, chances are the liquid will push in, spreading around evenly as it should.
When all attempts to revive your bad pixel fail, the next best thing you can do is to make peace with it. One ugly pixel won"t break your screen, and eventually, you"ll forget about it. If the defect affects more than a single pixel, however, or just bothers you a lot, you can always replace your monitor.
First, check the warranty. The manufacturer or the marketplace where you purchased the monitor might cover dead pixels. Note that most manufacturers define a maximum number of allowable bad pixels for specific resolutions, and the warranty won"t apply until your monitor crosses that threshold.
Bright or dark sub-pixels can occur during the production of the LCD Monitor panel but does not affect the LCD Monitor functionality. The customer may notice the bright or dark spots if the film of the liquid crystal does not perform as expected while customers uses the LCD monitor. However, this is not considered a defect unless the number of bright and dark subpixels exceeds the maximum allowable threshold (...)
On a monitor with over 12 million pixels (Wide QXGA+, 2560x1600 pixels), for example, LG"s pixel policy says that 12 bright or dark sub-pixels is the maximum you have to tolerate.
Should all of these approaches fail to fix your dead pixel warrior, at least you"ll now know it"s not simple to fix, and, you might actually have to replace the screen.
LCD"s are not universal parts. Each LCD is unique to your laptop"s design features. Your laptop"s LCD comes in different sizes, screen resolutions, technology or finishing (matte or glossy)
Sometimes shifting your display open or close, will restore the video output. If the LCD issue is the result of a fall or drop, the cable may be loose or the LCD may have gone bad and need to be replaced.
We have built relationships with several LCD vendors that have the best price options and reputation for quality. Most of our LCD"s are OEM (original manufactured part), in cases where OEM is unavailable, we use substitutes - which are comparatively equal quality.
Some laptop designs have the LCD and touchscreen machine pressed and are not removable. In these cases, both the touchscreen and LCD are replaced as a kit.
Yes. Sometimes the impact of LCD damage will also affect the LCD cover or hinges. In these cases, its important to remediate both issues or LCD may break again in the future.
After a long, hard day, you finally sit down to catch up on your favorite show. But when you hit the power button on your remote control, your TV screen stays black! You try pressing the remote’s power button again and again from every angle, but still, your TV has no picture. If this sounds familiar, you’ve likely fallen victim to one or more TV screen issues.
What causes a TV screen to go black? Software issues, loose connections, or backlight problems are usually behind black TV screens. Learn about each of these causes and get tips for troubleshooting them so you can get back to relaxing with your favorite TV shows, movies, and video games.
If your TV screen is black and there’s no sound, you’ll want to check for an LED light or a small indicator light that tells you the TV has power. If there is no power to the TV while it is plugged in, there may be an issue with the outlet or fuse box in your home. However, if the TV is on but the screen is black, the problem could lie with your TV’s software.
Unplug the TV from the wall, and, if possible, remove the power cord from the back of the TV to perform a soft reset. Wait 30 seconds, and plug the TV back into a working outlet to test it again. If you’re still having screen issues, you might want to bring in an expert — they’ll know how to fix your TV’s black screen.
If your TV screen goes black but the sound still works, the first thing to check is the input source to ensure it is turned on and operating correctly. This includes external devices like cable boxes, video game consoles, laptops, and streaming devices. Once you’re sure the input source is working properly and you have the right input settings, check the cable connections. In many instances where the TV screen is black but the audio works, poor cable connections could be the issue.
Whether you’re working with an HDMI cable, RCA (usually yellow, white, and red cables) set up, or another type of connection, you need to ensure the cables are seated properly and firmly into their connection ports. With a good connection, the cable shouldn’t feel loose or easily disconnect when pulled on or moved around. If all your cables have a snug fit but the problem persists, try connecting the device to another TV. If your TV screen is still blacked out, you may need new cables.
Some TV displays, such as LCD screens, use a backlight to illuminate the picture. If the backlight burns out or stops working, it will result in a blank TV screen.
To check your TV’s backlight, make sure your TV is on. Then, turn off the lights in the room and shine a flashlight on the screen. If you can see a picture with the flashlight, then your TV’s backlight is likely burnt out.
While you might be eager to learn how to fix a black-screen TV, a broken backlight does not come with an easy solution. The backlight will need to be replaced, and it’s best to get help from a professional with this task.
If repair costs are outside your budget or not worth it considering the age and condition of your TV, you may want to consider upgrading to a new smart TV. When you purchase a new TV from your local Rent-A-Center, you’ll enjoy free product service and repairs for the life of your agreement as part of our Worry-Free Guarantee.
You’ve run all the tests, checked all the ports, and ensured your TV has power, but your TV screen is still black! There could be a more complicated (and expensive) issue, so it might be time to ditch your old TV for an upgrade.
Rent-A-Center makes it easy to own a new TV, like an LG 65″ 4K UHD Smart TV. From OLED to QLED, we’ve got ultra high-definition TVs with picture quality so crisp, you’ll wonder why you didn’t upgrade sooner. Avoid the headache of your old TV, and shop your favorite TV brands online today. You can even get same-day delivery on qualifying purchases in select areas!