yamaha keyboard lcd screen not working factory

My screen went blank on both halves. I followed the instructions kindly provided by Zerald (see Nov. 20, 2017) A big thank you to him as it completely fixed the issue. I used a PowerFist soldering station from Princess Auto (Canada) set at 150 F (the minimum setting) to reset the glue. If you run the flat blade over the flex tape cable where it attaches to the circuit board before turning on the heat, you will feel the ridges in the flex cable. After turning on the heat to the soldering tip, I repeatedly passed over the flex tape where it joins the metal and the whole part behind where it is glued to the board (about 1/4 inch). Make sure to do both pieces of flex tape cable as each one is the data supply for either side of the screen. I powered it up after each successive try and saw the screen steadily improve from no image when I started to fully functional after three applications of heat and pressure. The final result was the flex tape cable had no ridges, the glue appears to be reset, and the screen is once again fully functioning. Other than purchasing the soldering station ($30.00 CDN) there was no other costs. I own two Yamaha guitars and two Yamaha keyboards but will never buy another Yamaha product due to their companies" lack of accountability to an obvious product flaw. I was quoted about $300.00 to have their local service company replace the screen! Appears it doesn"t need to be replaced.

What I did was undo all the necessary screws on the back to separate the control section from the keys. This gives you access to the display board and its two brown ribbon cables. pressing / rubbing them while the unit was turned on made a further mess of the screen and confirmed this was the problem.

SOLUTION);.. turn machine off INTERMITTENTLY 30 min on .... place a Makeba quartz crystal on the screen( with 4 small magnets on to top) on the portion of the screen that is blank;...in the middle of the screen if totally blank...leave on on overnight...repeat and vary. ..{ USE YOUr imagination)>... turning the machine on and off to check results..stop placing crystal when screen activates

I just found this page but I"ve had the same issue with mine for a few years. I"d love to know a solution. The keyboard plays but the screen is a mess. Half of it works. The other half does not.

It happened to my YPG-625 too. One day after turning it on I got half a screen. The problem was resolved by turning the keyboard off then turning the contrast knob all the way up (located on the front input panel). Then turning the keyboard back on and re-adjusting the contrast level. That got it back to display the full screen.

Hi, I have a big problem with my Yamaha ypg-635. I bought it in 2009 and I have not had any problems, now 2017 - 2018, when I return to my school and I tried to turn it on I can see that the control screen turns on completely but when I want to play the keys, I do not get any sound at all , I raise the volume and there is no sound. I tried with the headphones or with an amplifier and there is no sound either, but very soft in the background you hear a faint buzz soud.

The problem is in poor contact in-between LCD’s PCB and flex cables that comes to the LCD panel(two cables). It seems that Yamaha(or who manufactured this LCD assy – I do not know) uses some kind of anisotropic conductive film(instead of solder or connector) to connect those two flex cables to the PCB.

Then I just pressed (press hard but no too hard, film’s datasheet says ~18kg/cm2) and held for ~10 seconds by warm soldering tip on the flex’s pins over the places where they are glued to the PCB. The T12-D4 is wide enough to ‘re-glue’ 4..5 pins at one iteration, so, total process took 2…3 minutes (and 30…40 minutes to disassemble/assemble keyboard).

The contact point from the attached electronics on the glass support is defective. A repearatur is not possible. The glass is multi-layered. I suspect the defect in the glass carrier in it.

I have a Ypg-535 and seem to be having the same issue as everyone, but instead my screen is completely gone. I have only used the keyboard a total of about 8 hours in the past year, due to being busy with school work, and am wondering if this issue is possibly caused by underusage. I am wondering if there is any solution to this problem without having to buy a completely new keyboard.

Screen has been malfunctioning for years. Used to be just half gone. Now it"s fully gone. I"ve checked the contrast. My main question is will a 25$ 320 x 240 dots LCD display (backlit) not from yamaha work or do I have have to get the 113$ or more replacement screen specifically for yamaha? ctiwari2@ yahoo.com 812-361-8798

I am having a similar problem that seems to be epidemic, when adjusting the contract control the fixed half goes bad and the bad part goes good! There are replacement screens on aliexpress but man given the amount of people out there with this problem Yamaha should be held accountable.. very disappointing.

I have the same problem. However, I"m a total cheap skate and don"t want to part with $150 to buy a new screen. So, instead I attemtped to take the DGX620/YPG625 keyboard apart hoping I could get the display working without buying a new part.

Once I got the keyboard apart I pulled the screen out and plugged it back into the main board except now I had the screen facing me while the keyboard was open. Once the screen was facing me I plugged in the AC power. This way I was able to play around with the cables while seeing if the display problem got any better.

Results: I managed to find a sweet spot where the cable would recieve a good signal and the display problem disappeared completely. However, once all put back together and after playing the keys for a few minutes the display problem came back. Clearly a new LCD should not be necessary and I will attempt to take apart my keyboard again this time cleaning all display connections as well as the end of the display cable.

Over 100 screws to take this thing apart and an hour time to toy with it and put it back together. I hope this helps anyone else looking to repair without purchasing new parts. I will post again with the results of my second attempt, however, I may not try again for a few days.

many yamaha key boards have this issue very early after.so please give me a solution for this issue.also i like to propose to yamaha corporation if you can include vedio out jack for every arranger key boards its very helpfull.

i have a yamaha 625 ypg keyboard i opened it up to find that there is something on the contacts of the ribbon cable thats making the contacts not work because i test the cable with a multimeter and for some reason the contacts go bad !but can any body help me get a new ribbon cable my lcd screen works i just need to replace a cable .the one with the black flat peace on it! it seems to be the problem ! my name is greg swinney i can be reached at gswinney1@ yahoo.com thanks!!!!

Display should not malfunction - this is "main" info center for user. I"m a professional pianist and......... after 4 years display want half and half blank or gone.

This should be cover by Yamaha company, poor design and poor quality. 3 years ago - during performance - piano quit. After few hrs, piano works fine. After 4 months this same problem. Purchased new transformer, but didn"t help.

Just noticed it last night. I"ll work the fix but will probably heavily de-weight Yamaha for my next keyboard purchase given how common this issue is.

I have this same problem as many others with my YPG screen going half blank! This is totally unacceptable. I"ve had my Roland D-5 for 40+ years and the screen is still the same as it was when it was purchased. Yamaha should really do something about this. This screen is defective, bottom line!

Exact same problem! Just fixed it tonight with a new lcd. Attempted to clean all the connectors first with contact cleaner and q tips. No better. Should have tried replacing the horribly double-crimped ribbon cable, but didn"t want to go out again and have a show I need this for, so I just threw in the new LCD screen. 100 bucks and two weeks to ship but it works.

Yes, I agree JamieRI! I"m absolutely shore about this problem, and first just try to cleaning the contacts! My Yamaha DGX620 had the same problem but cleaning all contacts I fix it, and now the display is full, optimal working. :)

2) Clean flex tail contacts: If it has vertical streaks or half is blank, the LCD display is quite possibly good but contacts on the flex tail fingers are tarnished, producing poor contact at the connector. (I have not done this yet, so leave comments on your success)

I enjoyed my Yamaha piano but will never buy another one or recomend. The LCD screen only shows half screen. This seems to be a common problem. Very disappointed.

"However, I did find, when removing the old part, that the LCD main ribbon cable was folded (crimped) twice by the manufacturer to better align the wire with it"s connector on the main circuit board. I was told, in my training, never to crimp these wires.

However, I did find, when removing the old part, that the LCD main ribbon cable was folded (crimped) twice by the manufacturer to better align the wire with it"s connector on the main circuit board. I was told, in my training, never to crimp these wires.

I had purchased a Yamaha PSR I455 and it also has the display problem even after one month. I think the quality of the product is very low due to China manufacturing. Also they charge more on Indian customers. If you compare the same version in USA costs only 18K instead of 25.5K here in India.

I"m glad I made an exception to my normal policy of not purchasing optional warranties. With 4-year coverage I can take it to Best Buy and THEY can take off the 100+ screws.

I am so glad I came upon this site and saw the picture. It is the same problem that I am having right now with mine. I will not take it apart myself over the fear of it breaking the piano and the folk"s around here in my neck of the woods are not so helpful in fixing it for me. I was told to, "Get rid of it and buy a newer one." Yeah, I really wish money grew on tree"s too." So the story with mine as possible causes are: Has been moved around a bit, never dropped. Played everyday and in OHIO. Weather such as heat/cold could be a issue to any electronic device. So would Yamaha send a tech to my house for free to fix it or is this something that"s going to cost me?

I have a YPG-625. I suggest calling an authorized dealer is seeing how much they will charge you to replace you malfunctioning LCD with a new one. They get a bigger discount from Yamaha and it may actually be cheaper. If you want to do it yourself follow the below understanding I am not a qualified service tech just a do-it-yourselfer. There are a total of 114 screws (you will want to power screw driver fully charged) and 2 solder connections (you will need a soldering Iron and solder).

- DO NOT open the case unless you are aware of and comfortable with the fact that you could destroy your piano. You will need to solder 2 small connections (if you don"t know how to solder go to youtube).

5. Carefully lift up on the bottom part of the case just enough to remove the speaker wire connector so you can completely remove the bottom case. Take care not to damage the speaker lines

7. Remove ALL the ribbon cables (notice how they are oriented and where they go, you will need to replace these latter) except the main one (top right corner since flipped on face and you are looking from the Top of the piano).

11. Remove the Soldered power wires from the LCD. To do this, look at the connector on the board were this wire connects. The top part of this plastice white connector lifts up slightly (don"t pull to hard) then you can easily pull the wire out).

13. Solder this wire onto the NEW LCD. Make sure you connect the correct wire to + and the other to -. (See YouTube to solder correctly if you don"t know)

I need to do the fix myself... But please know just how finicky this ACF process is! It is bonded by achieving a certain temperature measured in the adhesive, under a specific pressure for a specific duration of time. Worse, this is a conductive adhesive that must be frozen until used, and when frozen, is only properly able to be bonded for 12 months after manufacture. (this is not my opinion, see 3M specs below for details)

My respect! this is the truth, My repair lasted a few month and finally I changed the screen module to a new one, it"s cheap in aliexpress. I can see some improvement and so far so good, 3 years already.0

Awesome and insightful Thank you so much. I don"t own a air soldering gun so I used an old hair dryer. The temperature on the 1500w hair dryer oscillated between 200 and 230F so you would need to fast and careful not to go too far0

Now my problem is the backlight that stopped working. Is there a way to disassemble the display to access the back light and fix it or I need to buy a new complete display?

Hi TqW (?), thanks for the feedback. I had problems about 10 years ago with the flat cables, but not this time. I checked the 5V source direct in the backlight terminals and it was fine. If there is a way to open the display and remove the backlith fixing it will be easy.

Awesome instructions. After taking out all the screws and the board, I didn"t think it was going to work because the connections on the LCD board looked perfect. But I followed the instructions exactly anyway. I have zero experience with repairing electronics but the instructions were so good that I fixed it on the first try. I especially appreciated the detail of setting the screwdriver torque to 1 so as not to strip the casing when putting it all back together. Thanks!

Nice to know you made it! you might need to know this fix will not solve forever the issue, but it really points to the origin and able to repair it, I opened 3 times mine, as the problem went back twice, each time I put little higher flow temperature, and the 3rd time was beginning of last year. good luck!0

Great advice. Thanks! Looking to buy one of these very cheap (because - you guessed it - screen problem!). Before I attempt to fix/replace... is it possible to play as regular piano WITHOUT screen function? My daughter needs a nice keyboard for piano practice... Hate to pass this one up!

sorry for not replying before, the keyboard overall is functional, but not very much "pianist", it compares to CASIO more or less the same, good one to practice a few month, then let her try a real piano, you maybe need to sale it to someone else.0

Yes, you can catch the offer, the overall quality and durability are ok, as it made by YAMAHA, sound quality is decent if the internal speaker still original, or you can just connect to an externally powered speaker system. one thing I feel the keys are little noisy compared to a Casio, the strike sound, maybe the shock absorber is getting old.... Mine one is about 7 years stationary use. Hope this help.1

Thanks for the advice on the anisotropic conductive film cable. My DGX620 LCD was down to half screen and I wanted to avoid the cost of replacement, when it was clearly only a connection issue.

Hi there! glad my note helped in solving the issue, seems it"s a genetic bug of all DGX keyboards (i just can"t call it piano even it sounds good, but the keys stoke feels toy). I do recommend you have a hot gun to finish this kind of job, as the iron slide quickly on the contact ribbon, maybe may become open again in a few days. good luck!

WARNING: All user-stored data (Registrations, User Styles, Multipads, User Voices, User Songs, MIDI settings) will be deleted. If the current settings and data are not expendable, create a backup before executing the Factory Reset. This can be done by performing a ""Bulk Dump"" to an external MIDI storage device or by saving the user-stored data to a floppy disk via the internal disk drive of the keyboard.

Today my Genos touch screen stopped responding totally. I cannot access any function via touch. Gateway buttons and Assignables are OK. This occurred without any warning or previous history.

The 2 years of ownership can be best described as highs and lows but today my experience is a major disappointment. I will have to contact Yamaha. I live in Canada and purchased

my Genos in the U.S. which makes the problem more compicated. The shipping cost is prohibitive and I am unable to transport it in person. I did not purchase it here in Canada because dealers here were not even interested in quoting me a price.

I have owned Yamaha products entirely for more than 50 years and NEVER had a major failure such of any kind. This issue is not operator error. For $7,000 Canadian I am extremely upset. My Genos has never left my home or even the room since it was purchased. Any feedback would be welcomed. Bob

If you want to run the keyboard without the power cord, be sure the batteries are in the battery compartment and correctly oriented. Try replacing the batteries with fresh ones.

The problem could be that the keyboard isn"t receiving power properly, i.e. the power is not turned on, the power supply isn"t connected correctly, or the batteries are dead.

Here is a link to the service manual for your keyboard. It contains complete circuit wiring diagrams. As best as I can see, the LCD display backlight is fed by a +5V DC supply connection. Looking at the circuit there appears to be two (2) cable connections to the display. One is for data and screen settings (which has 19 wires) and the other is a two wire cable supplying the backlight (+5V and Eth).

Here’s a list of popular MIDI controllers and how to factory reset them. Note that any custom presets or custom loaded samples may be removed when factory resetting your controller.

If your controller is not on this list, refer to your user manual for more information. Please also bear in mind that some controllers may not have the option to restore factory settings. For more help and troubleshooting tips,

After using these options you will notice the "Save Preset" button blinking. This indicates that you have to save the preset in order to keep the factory setting in your editor.

Hold down both Pad Octave buttons (+ and –) while powering the keyboard back on. The screen will flash "RESET" for one second and return to normal operation.

Hold down both Pad Octave buttons (+ and –) while powering the keyboard back on. The screen will flash "RESET" for one second and return to normal operation.

The MASTER level indicator blinks, and then all buttons and pads are lit. NOTE: Never turn off the power while the MASTER level indicator is blinking.

Press the blinking [START/STOP] button. Factory reset begins. When the display indicates "CPLT," factory reset is complete. NOTE: Never turn off the power until the display indicates "CPLT."

Press the blinking [START/STOP] button. Factory reset begins. When the display indicates "OK," factory reset is complete. NOTE: Never turn off the power until the display indicates "OK."

NOTE: If you select the "PowerOn Auto" checkbox on the page displayed for Step 6 above, the Factory Set will be restored each time you turn on your DTX700.

Reface CS, Reface CP, and Reface YC: the instrument’s lamps will flash. Reface DX The message "Factory reset" will be displayed on-screen. When the Factory Reset has finished, the lamps will stop flashing or the message will disappear.

Digital pianos are fantastic additions to the home of any pianist, aiming to offer the sound and touch playability of a traditional digital pianosin the past few years many also now boast features  that were once only available on high end keyboards and synthesizers, such as the ability to record, differing piano sounds, built in lessons, as well as various types of connectivity via Bluetooth, USB or MIDI to expand and update the potential of these functions.

With all of the additional options available with modern digital pianos, there’s also the downside of more opportunities for things to go wrong.  These can range from unwanted sounds or backing tracks which have been edited or added onto the piano after purchase, to what may seem like hardware problems from sustain pedals or sticking keys. One of the classic problems with older Yamaha models was accidentally entering “engineers mode” by holding down a D# chord while turning the piano on.  This led to an often confusing sequence of flashing lights and surprise sounds!

In order to conduct a factory reset on any Yamaha digital piano, simply turn off the piano and then hold down the highest pitched  white key or farthest right white key for 2 to 3 seconds whilst turning the piano back on. And that’s it! No tools, no hassle, it’s that easy. If your piano has an inbuilt screen, such as the CVP Clavinova range, it will notify you that the factory reset has been done so that you’re 100% sure.

As well as working for all keyboard models, this is also the most common method for doing a factory reset on many of the digital pianos we sell, including the likes of Roland, Kawai, Kurzweil, Nordand newcomers Dexibell. We’d always advise checking the product manual first however, as this can vary from one product series to another.

Whilst the vast majority of digital pianos now use the same factory rest method as Yamaha, including some Casio digital pianos, one exception is the AP Celviano series from Casio which uses a slightly different method.  As Andrew demonstrates for this series of digital pianos, first turn off the piano as before, but this time you will need to hold down both the “Function” & “Electric Piano 1” buttons whilst turning the piano on. Once the piano is turned on, the lights on the piano’s panel will begin to flash at an increasing speed until displaying as normal, at which point the process is complete.  The idea behind this slightly more complicated procedure is to avoid an accidental reset being performed by leaning on the relevant keys whilst switching on.

As mentioned earlier, performing a factory reset can fix a multitude of issues with your digital piano. Including those mentioned previously, these can also include overloaded memories, problems with the keyboard split function, accidentally reversed foot controller polarity, none functioning playback, sticking keys and a whole host of software issues.  With updated sounds and backing tracks increasingly coming from online rather than a CD, there’s also the albeit small chance of viruses or malaware making their way into your piano.

Diagnosing the problem involves taking note of what is actually going on. Does the keyboard not turn on at all when you flip the switch? Or, is there power but no sound? Maybe the piano will play sounds from a sample bank, but it isn’t getting a signal from the keyboard. Each scenario points to a particular set of problems. Some of which have fast, simple solutions, while some don’t.

Things get even more complicated if you are using an external speaker, running through a soundboard, or using your keyboard as a MIDI controller. More machines and more connections mean more things that could potentially be the source of the issue.

We’ll start with steps to troubleshoot a piano that doesn’t have any power and then move on to actions you can take that address keyboards with power but no sound. Finally, we’ll offer you some advice on when you should or shouldn’t attempt repairs and how to proceed.

Before you can troubleshoot issues related to your keyboard’s power supply, you need to figure out whether it is running off of battery or external power. Two different power supply options mean two different sets of issues to diagnose. If you can eliminate one half of that set of potential problems before you get started, you get to the finish line sooner. Most digital pianos, especially the console variety, will run off mains power. However, some keyboards, typically slab/portable types, can be powered by batteries.

It’s always a good idea to have a store of replacement batteries available for your digital keyboard. Whether you’re a student at home or a working musician on the road, having back-ups, replacements, and spares is a habit that you should develop to make your life easier. If you have back-up batteries available, try replacing them. If this solves the problem, then you executed a successful test and solution in a single step.

If you don’t have any replacement batteries and you’re trying to figure out whether getting some will solve the problem, you could try running your keyboard off of AC power. If that works fine, but the battery power doesn’t, dead batteries may be the problem.

Another potential problem with battery power is that you may have installed the batteries improperly. It is less likely when you’ve been using your keyboard for a while with a set of cells, but it’s pretty common right after a change. Some musicians like to start every gig with a fresh set, so this troubleshooting step shouldn’t be overlooked or taken for granted.

The A/C adapted for your digital piano has at least two points of contact that you need to check, but depending on the make and model, there might be more. When you’re trying to run your keyboard on external power, and it won’t turn on, make sure that the plug is secure in the wall socket. You should also make sure that the outlet that you are using has power.

If the socket is working and the plug is inserted securely, check to make sure that the pin connection at the piano is secure. Don’t just look to see if it is connected. Put your hands on it to make sure that the connection is stable. If both of those connections are solid and the wall socket being used has power, then you’ve eliminated the most common oversights.

If you are a working musician, then you know exactly how much wear and tear that puts on your gear. But even if your digital piano never leaves its spot in your home, things can happen. Power cords are pretty hardy components as musical instrument gear goes, but they aren’t invincible. Something as simple as running the vacuum cleaner over the cable could cause a nick or a cut.

If the wall socket that you plugged into has power, you have good connections, and there are no kinks, nicks, or cuts in your power cable—feel the transformer unit with your hands. If it is warm right after being plugged in, then you can be fairly certain that this is the source of your problems. Unfortunately, the only solution is to replace it. That’s why it’s a good idea for working musicians to build a repair kit with spare parts and back-ups.

Even if you are an experienced player and am comfortable working on the internal components of your digital piano, you need to consider whether doing so yourself is worth it. If a warranty covers the unit, you might be voiding it by working on it instead of taking it in for repairs by someone qualified. That’s the kind of decision that can save you a few bucks in the short-term only to cost you big time over the long-run.

Assuming that you’re starting out on the troubleshooting checklist with a confirmation that you have power to the unit but no sound from the keyboard, the first thing that you need to check is the volume control. This is a lot like telling somebody to make sure that the unit is plugged in or that the batteries are correctly installed: rolling eyes and heavy sighs.

Some digital pianos have different speaker settings, and not all of them allow the signal from the keyboard to go all the way through to the speakers. Yamaha keyboards have a variety of speaker settings, including Normal, Headphone Switch, Auto, On & Off, and not all these will result in sound coming from the main speakers.

It always worth checking the jack to make sure nothing has been left plugged in. Headphone plugs usually come in 2 sizes, and sometimes you will need a conversion adaptor to plug your headset in. These can be left connected while the headphones have been removed as well as misplaced pedal cords and will stop any sound coming out of the main speakers.

Broken or damaged keys can be a problem. The first thing that you need to do is determine whether it is the entire keyboard or just a specific section or select keys. If you discover that keys are the problem, follow the instructions in your owner’s manual to clean them. If that doesn’t resolve the issues, you should contact a service person to repair the unit.

Many digital pianos and electric keyboards come with a manual reset function that will allow you to restore factory settings. If you’ve gone through the checklist to this point and still don’t have any sound, a manual reset can be a good option. However, if you have any unsaved recordings or samples stored in a drive on the instrument, you will lose them. That’s why it’s a good idea to do regular back-ups. You don’t want to have to make that forced-choice 10-minutes before a gig is supposed to start.

If your keyboard does have a function that allows you to save and store samples or tracks and play them back, you can use this function to do additional troubleshooting before you initiate a manual reset. If the sound from your samples comes out of the speakers, but the sounds from the keyboard do not, you might have a problem with the contacts in the keyboard.

It can be really frustrating when you want to play, and your piano won’t let you. Sometimes it’s just a waste of valuable practice time. Sometimes it’s a cause for embarrassment and a potential loss of revenue. If you follow these troubleshooting steps, you’ll get through most of the things that you can fix yourself. Most of the time, you’ll find and fix the issue, just remember that if you open up the keyboard yourself, you will probably invalidate any warranty you have on it. In those instances, it’s best to contact the manufacturer or a local music store and find a professional who can help.