elegoo mars replacement lcd screen free sample

This is a template for use in precisely cutting your own vinyl LCD gaskets, saving you money on buying premade and saving your screen in the case of spills, and FEP holes.

【Disassemble the old screen】①Using the socket head wrench(M2) to disassemble the screws which fix the cover; ②Unclasp the screen wire and take it off. ③Tear the fixing tape down gently. Note: If your screen can work normally, do NOT tear off the fixing tape on the surface at will, otherwise the scratch-resistant film may be torn off together, resulting in the loss of screen protections as well as resin leakage into the interior of the machine. ④Please wear gloves before the operation to avoid leaving fingerprints and other dirt on the screen. After that, apply the art knife to gently pry from the corner of the screen. Once you take the screen and the bottom glass off together, kindly follow the steps in the video to separate the two films.

【Installation Preparation】①First clean the SEKISUI tape in the installation slot and the glass. ②The glass can be wiped with a dust-free cloth moistened with alcohol. ③Stick the new tape around the installation slot (for the glass), then install the glass. ④After installing the glass, please clean the dirt from the glass in time to avoid affecting the printing. ⑤Stick the tape around the glass, to prepare to install the new LCD screen.

【Install the new screen】①With the side showing the word "LCD" facing up, attach the wire to the snap-in new screen as instructed in the video. ②Using the tape to fix the screen. Note:the wider side of the tape will be glued to the inside, and take care to cover the slot position when taping. ③Install the wire back then clasp it. ④Assemble the cover back and lock the fixing screws.

PJ V5 Screen:Click to download:V4.4.3-Z1_LCDZ/3840X2400/F15.26 ( If there is a line in the middle of the LCD screen, please rollback the firmware toF15.24: Click to download)

*Caution:  Please make sure whether this firmware matches your printer, wrong update across different printers may turn it unusable. If you run into any problems with the firmware please contact our support team at 3dp@elegoo.comwith the batch number labeled at the bottom of the printer, we will try our best to help.

③Restart the machine, the update file .LCD will be updated automatically, after the successful update there will be a beeping sound and restart the machine

Caution:The.LCD file will be automatically updated after restarting the machine in the shutdown state. Please do not update repeatedly to avoid being prompted "Same Firmware already exists!"

Note: If you mistakenly updated this firmware, please contact our support team via 3dp@elegoo.com with the batch number labeled at the bottom of the printer.

Compared with ordinary 2K LCD 3D printers, its printing volume is 37% higher than Mars 2, XY accuracy is up to 35 microns, 30% higher than Mars 2 series, higher printing efficiency, more stable performance, and less maintenance.

It is the first time to adopt a copper tube heat dissipation structure in ELEGOO resin 3D printer, which greatly optimizes the heat dissipation performance and reduces light decay.

Users that have an Elegoo Mars can sometimes go through failures and problems. Many of these are fixable if you have the right methods, so I decided to look into some ways to fix various Elegoo Mars troubleshooting solutions.

I’d recommend taking a look at your bottom layer settings and making sure they are adequate. A good number of bottom layers to have usually falls between 4-6, while the bottom layer exposure depends on your printer and the UV power. For a 4K LCD printer like the Anycubic Photon Mono X, a bottom layer exposure of 30 seconds usually works well.

Another issue that I have noticed while resin 3D printing with Elegoo Mars printer is that only supports are printed. It can be disappointing when you have gone through the process of modeling and printing to see that only the supports are getting printed.

The first thing I’d do to fix your Elegoo Mars only printing supports is to increase the number of supports or support density as this will improve the foundation for the actual model to print properly.

It’s not uncommon to experience your Elegoo Mars not printing anything at all, often caused by very insufficient curing times or by low quality resins.

If you have just gotten your Elegoo Mars and it is not printing at all or your old one just suddenly stops printing, here are methods you can use to troubleshoot the issue

Check that your LCD or UV light display is working properly, by checking the exposure/detection tests on your resin 3D printer. It may need to be replaced if you have been printing for several hours, or had a resin leak.

Another thing that can cause a failed print with the Elegoo Mars printer is when your build plate is not well leveled. The build plate is what the raft, support or model sticks to while resin 3D printing so it should be well-positioned to not have your print falling off your build plate.

After following these steps, your build plate should be leveled successfully. Here is a video by Elegoo official that you can watch to further simplify the process involved in leveling your build platform for you.

Horizontal lines showing up on your print is a common issue that can be troublesome when printing with your Elegoo Mars resin 3D printer. Horizontal lines on your print are often confused for layer separation but they are not the same.

Using PrusaSlicer instead of ChiTuBox can be a good fix to prevent failed prints with the Elegoo Mars resin 3D printer. One user who tried PrusaSlicer instead of ChiTuBox found that the supports held on much better throughout the printing process, leading to successful prints.

Some people recommend to place some tape on the borders of the screen to reduce the space created between the LCD and FEP film. This can help reduce the print from sticking to the FEP. It is also a good measure to prevent resin from leaking inside the screen.

The Elegoo Mars Pro outclasses this original Mars model in many ways as it has several impressive performance and design enhancements that ultimately improve upon the overall great experience of its predecessor.

One of the notable performance enhancements is a fresher BGW15CA linear guide for the Z-axis which significantly improves the print accuracy. The other one is the improved light source (50W instead of the Mars 40W) which provides a faster curing speed. The Mars Pro also offers better light uniformity and a new build plate which has an upgraded 0.15mm CD pattern surface that provides better adhesiveness as well as easier print removal.

As for the design upgrades, Elegoo has moved the USB port to the front on the Mars Pro instead of the back like it was in the original Mars model. It has also included new features like a built-in carbon filter and a silicone rubber seal/gasket that’s put on the base of the UV cover to minimize resin odor leakage. The resin vat is equally larger than that of the Mars model.

Generally, the Mars Pro offers considerable improvements that make it a more competent printer than its predecessor. It’s far more accurate and easier to use. The print quality and level of detail were absolutely amazing – we printed at least 30 miniatures and we had very few fails. Here’s an in-depth look at what you can expect from it including a few setbacks that it has.

The Mars Pro is a resin (LCD/MSLA) 3D printer produced by Elegoo, a China-based 3D printer manufacturer that has been developing and producing resin 3D printers since 2017. It’s an upgrade of the company’s flagship model, the Elegoo Mars which was arguably amongst the best entry-level resin 3D printers on the market, competing with the likes of Phrozen3D, Anycubic, and many others.

The Elegoo Mars Pro has most of the design elements from the older Mars printer. It has the same small footprint, measuring just 7.87 x 7.87 x 16.14 inches. It takes up only a little space when placed on a desk. It also has the same red UV hood and a black base that sits on four anti-slip feet.

On the Elegoo mars, the port was placed on the back of the unit, which was a real hassle since you had to fumble around for the slot to insert or remove the USB drive or switch on/off the machine.

Elegoo has also shifted the position of the cooling fan to the bottom of the base unit instead of placing it on the inside like on the Mars model which allowed them to use a slightly larger, slower, and much quieter fan – the stepper motor runs quietly too and the rubber gasket helps to further cut down the noise when printing. You can barely hear the printer running when you are outside the room with the door closed.

Overall, the build quality of the Mars Pro is really good. It feels sturdy and well-built, with materials that are of great quality. Most of the parts are made from very solid machined aluminum. The resin vat is even made of aluminum alloy, it’s light but sturdy.

As mentioned earlier, the Mars Pro comes with multiple performance enhancements that significantly improve the quality and accuracy of the prints it produces. The most notable one is the upgrade to the BGW15CA linear guide and fresher stepper motors for the Z-axis.

This new linear guide has a precision of 0.02mm which is the same as that of the original Mars model. The difference is that it’s much steadier, providing a very stable and accurate movement that facilitates more consistency in the print quality throughout the Z-axis – it greatly reduces the layer lines on 3D printed models just as advertised, making their surfaces much smoother.

The light source of the Mars Pro has also been improved to Matrix UV lighting which is made up of 28 50W UV LED lights which is an upgrade from the 40W UV lights of the Mars model. However, they have a wavelength of 405nm which is pretty much what the original Mars model and all other commercial low-cost resin printers that I know work at.

The difference though is that the LEDs are more powerful and provide a much better/increased light uniformity that ensures equal power across the whole build chamber. The outcome of this is that the outer edges of your printed models come out just as precise as the parts that were positioned over the center region of the LCD screen hence you get a more accurate printing size and results.

The masking LCD screen itself is 5.5 inches in size and has a resolution of 2K of 2560 x 1440 pixels, providing an X and Y resolution of 0.047mm/0.00185inches which is equally very good. It’s the same XY axis resolution that the Mars LCD screen offers, so you get the same accurate printing results.

Elegoo has as well equipped the Mars Pro with a new build plate that features a CD grain surface that’s meant to provide higher adhesiveness and increase the overall printing success rate.

All these upgrades have greatly improved the overall performance of the Mars Pro in comparison to its predecessor. The quality of the prints and the level of detail that it produces are amazing – the prints come out accurate, sharp, and solid for the most part.

Our first print on it was the Elegoo Mars test file which came pre-loaded and already sliced for Mars Pro. They were rook chess pieces and they came out looking exquisite. The quality indeed surpassed that of the old Mars model. The lettering was crisp and clear, plus other details like the double helix as well as the spiral staircase that wind down the center of the pieces were well reproduced and easily discernable.

Next up, we tried slicing a couple of prints. Elegoo offers a folder of several popular 3D printable files that are in STL file format. We used the ChiTu Box slicer to prepare some with the Mars Pro pre-set. Their detail was lovely. For instance, a dwarf beard print we did showed fine details of beard hair, flowing weapons, and a textured tunic.

Surprisingly, the Mars Pro managed to get the job done. It recreated both threads quite well and they were working. The 1-inch thread did fit well and although the M12 thread was still a bit tight, it nonetheless worked. Printing threads that are this fine is no doubt a tough job, but the Mars Pro managed to pull it off with default slicer settings and without any tweaking.

Repeated prints equally demonstrated uniformity and some level of consistency. The dimensions of most repeated prints varied by mere tens of microns (specifically between prints but not between model and print). Therefore, achieving dimensional accuracy is possible, especially of repeated prints which is essential when you want to print snap-fit replacement parts – this will highly depend, though, on how you set up your model for printing.

It’s possible to experience a slight vertical layer shifting when the build plate isn’t tightly secured which we did when we tried to check the XY precision by creating a keychain of Elegoo logo. That said, both the horizontal and vertical planes printed smoothly – there were no visible grooves or warping.

Having used the Mars and several other MSLA printers, I can say the print performance of the Mars Pro is absolutely amazing. It’s a great option if you are looking to print miniatures, action figures, or small pieces of parts that need to be as accurate as possible. Out of the roughly 30 prints we did, we only had around 5 fails which were mainly due to supports issues that resulted from my ChiTuBox rookie mistakes.

However, there seems to be an almost universal problem with the Mars Pro’s LED array as there were complaints all over Elegoo community pages that its position is very close to the LCD screen which causes grid-like marks and holes on prints. We didn’t notice that in any of our prints but it’s something you want to keep in mind anyway.

The inclusion of a more powerful LED light system has enabled the Mas Pro to print slightly faster than its predecessor. Elegoo claims that it now takes just 6 seconds to print a regular layer (depending on the resin though) and around 45 seconds for the first layer which is a relatively fast curing speed that puts the Mars Pro in line with several expensive printers from other brands like the Original Prusa SL1.

In our estimate, we found the print speed to be indeed fast as claimed by Elegoo. For instance, the rook chess pieces took around 3 hours to print which was pretty fast considering that we tried printing them on the Creality’s LD-002Rand it took about 4 hours to print them.

The Mars Pro offers a compact 5.45 x 2.56 x 5.9 inches (120 x 68 x 155 mm) build volume which is similar to what its predecessor offers. So it’s quite tiny and only limits you to printing miniatures and other smaller objects.

Despite that though, the build platform has been greatly improved as it’s now a 0.15mm CD pattern surface which provides a higher success rate. The grip is stronger and much better, allowing prints to stick/adhere more securely to the plate – not one print came unstuck during our time with the Mars Pro.

What’s more, the upgraded plate surface lowers print adhesion to FEP hence the prints come off the build plate easily when finished. On the original Mars model, prints would occasionally tightly stick to the build plate becoming difficult to pry off. Most of them managed to pop off eventually but a few chipped and required a bit of strength to budge or elbow grease to disconnect from the plate.

It was a totally different experience with the Mars Pro. The prints miraculously popped off almost effortlessly – just a light tap from the provided plastic scraper is all that took to gently nudge the prints from the build platform. There were no chipped prints whatsoever.

Some users did however report that their prints sometimes didn’t stick to the print bed but instead, they would stick to the FEP or the bottom of the vat.We didn’t experience that throughout the time we used the Mars Pro. The resin would adhere to the plate very well while printing and then come easily off when done, so it’s not really a widespread problem.

Elegoo has also included plastic support alongside this printer. I found it to be a really useful addition as it helps angle/slope the top side of the build plate which is an important detail because it allows the resin to drip off better when a print is finished hence resulting in a much less messy experience. We’ve had a printer where the plate is flat on top and each time a print is finished, it would carry some resin up with it which would drip all over the place.

The other advantage of this new build platform of the Mars Pro is that it doesn’t need to be re-leveled often. The set screws have been upgraded to anti-slip hexagon socket screws which are larger and more resilient hence making them much stable and able tohold the plate in place perfectly once it’s leveled.

The Mars Pro works with any resin that uses the 405nm UV light to cure. A sample resin is not included in the package, so you’ll have to get at least a bottle of UV-curable resin separately. Elegoo’s resins are readily available, of good quality, and reasonably priced.

We tried the Siraya Tech Fast resin which we used to print a sword. It’s totally a different non-Elegoo brand resin but it worked great, although only after some tweaking to figure out the ideal settings to make it work right.

One thing we liked is that the resin vat of the Mars Pro has a new style that features stepped walls which allows it to hold more resin in basically the same footprint as that of the Mars thick-walled vat. This means you can print a bit longer without a refill.

To print a model you just drop your .ctb sliced file onto your flash drive and then directly plug it to the Mars Pro, tweak the settings, and let the printer do its work. It’s very simple to use, even for beginners, plus the touchscreen is very responsive, there was no lagging whatsoever.

Moving the USB port from the back to the front, just by the LCD display is one of the improvements that I appreciated as it saved me the hassle of reaching behind the unit every time I wanted to insert or remove the USB drive which was the case with the earlier Mars model.

Best of all, Elegoo has refined the compatibility between ChiTu Box and the Mars Pro such that the printer is now compatible with the exclusive CTB file extension which is a new and light sliced file format that’s about 20 times smaller than the previous standard sliced files like .cbddlp format that the Mars supports.

The ChiTu Box itself receives pretty frequent updates and with the new firmware update of the Mars Pro, you can expect to access new and improved functionality and features. Besides that, there’s a large functional and helpful Elegoo online community, so you’ll be able to find forums where you can get help and accurate settings for ChiTu Box and the printer itself.

The Elegoo Mars Pro came in a cardboard box and when we opened it we found two parts, the printer itself and the toolbox which were well packed in the box. The machine had the acrylic UV case on and when you remove it, you find even more protection inside that ensures the printing plate and other critical parts remained put during shipping.

Unfortunately, though, the provided instruction manual has an error as it states that the first step is to put the Z-axis position to Zero yet the correct first step is to set the Z-axis to Home which you do by pressing the Home button on the menu on the touchscreen – the text itself is false but the images show the correct set-up steps.

Overall, the printer was simple to set up and calibrate, plus Elegoo has included nearly everything you need to get started inside the toolbox. You get a face mask, scraper, screwdriver, some pliers, and a rubber seal for the UV hood. Also included are the power cord, power adapter, and plastic support for angling the print bed.

As with all resin printers, cleaning up after a print is usually the worst part, especially after a failed print as you need to clean up a smelly and sticky mess that’s poisonous. That said though, cleaning the Mars Pro was relatively easy as most of the prints came off easily and I had only a few failed prints.

Chunks of a print can cling to the bottom of the tank and you’ll need to remove them by scraping gently using the provided scraper while it’s above the screen to avoid damaging the FEP film – it’s thin and if you’re rough you are likely to scratch it and wreck it. It’s cheap and relatively easy to replace though.

Elegoo provides no guidance either on how to replace it and we couldn’t also find where you can buy the replacement filter, so once it gets used up then you’re are essentially left with a printer that actively blows unfiltered resin fumes into your room. It’s the same case with the fan assembly – there’s no easy way to disassemble the unit to access it and clean it.

The Elegoo Mars Pro is really an impressive resin printer. Its upgraded Z-axis mechanism, UV light, resin vat, and new CTB file format prove to be substantial improvements that arguably make it a much better printer than its predecessor. The ease of removing prints from the build plate, quieter operation, and smell reduction also make it more appealing than many other resin printers in the same category.

The only major downside is that accessing the carbon filter and the fan for cleanup and replacement is very challenging. There’s no major issue as far as performance is concerned.

The unit comes with a year-long warranty, plus Elegoo customer service seems to respond fairly quickly to customer queries although email is the only way to reach them. There’s also a large community of users online where you can get to learn more about the Mars Pro printer and the appropriate ways to use or set it for it to work smoothly.

Not too long ago, a couple of boxes arrived at my door directly from China: the brand new Mars 3 MSLA printer and Mercury X Bundle Washing and Curing Machine from ELEGOO. The Mars 3 is the latest iteration of the Mars series printers; I previously reviewed the Mars Pro in October 2020. As all three machines work together, I figured I might as well do one big review, showing how well all three of them work together to produce resin 3D prints.

There are essentially two types of printers available, stereolithographic (SLA) and fused deposition modeling (FDM). FDM models use a heated filament (most frequently PLA plastic) to build up a model, adding layer after layer until the model is complete. SLA printers use light to solidify a layer of resin at a time, creating the model. In the case of the Mars 3, which is a masked stereolithographic (MSLA) printer, it uses light specifically from an LED array combined with an LCD photomask.

If you’re new to 3D printing, this can all seem a bit overwhelming. Don’t worry, I’ll be explaining more as I describe my experiences with the Mars 3. In the meantime, think about it this way: SLA printers like the Mars 3 and Saturn are best if you want to print smoother, more detailed figures such as tabletop miniatures for Dungeons & Dragons, while FDM printers excel at printing larger, less detailed parts and objects, such as cosplay armor pieces and weapons.

The ELEGOO Mars 3 is an MSLA printer using an Ultra 4K mono LCD screen, with roughly a 30% improvement in print accuracy over the 2K screen in the Mars 2. It also boasts a faster cure time and slightly larger build plate than the Mars 2, as well as a host of other changes.

Much like any of the other printers I’ve gotten from ELEGOO, the Mars 3 comes nestled in firm foam packaging, ensuring that it stays immobile and protected during its journey from the ELEGOO factory. As with the ELEGOO Saturn, the Mars 3 has foam packed inside of the lid as well, to hold and protect the build plate, resin tray, and LCD display.

After assembling the printer, I thought I’d see how it looked side by side with the other ELEGOO MSLA printers I’ve worked with, the Mars Pro and the Saturn. Here are all three:

As you can see, the Mars 3 has a similar footprint to the Mars Pro but adds a bit of height for larger prints. The Mars 3 is also significantly lighter than the Mars Pro: 11.5 pounds versus the Pro’s 16.5 pounds.

ELEGOO continues their excellent practice of including a robust tool kit with their printers. Besides the power supply for the printer, you’ll find Allen wrenches, a metal scraper to remove prints from the build surface, a plastic scraper to remove resin from the FEP film, disposable filters for pouring resin back into the bottles, nippers, and even a few nitrile gloves and face masks. The gloves certainly won’t last you for more than a few prints, but it’s enough to get you started. Sadly, my tool kit was missing the USB drive that would normally accompany an ELEGOO printer. However, as I have plenty of USB drives from previous printers, this wasn’t a big deal. I did inform my contact at ELEGOO, and had I been a customer, they would have gotten a replacement drive to me right away.

Also of particular note is that the ELEGOO Mars 3 comes with a 1-year license of Chitubox Pro slicing software, a $169 value. In addition to all the features found in the free, basic Chitubox software, the Pro version allows you to cut 3D models into separate pieces for printing, repair damaged model files, and also gives the user finer control over the placement of supports for printing. While I did appreciate the extra features, there are currently some known bugs with the Pro version of the software. I myself had frequently been getting the dreaded, “program unresponsive” message, so I went back to printing my models using the free, basic Chitubox slicer, which has worked flawlessly. As this free trial for Pro is only for a year’s duration, if you purchase a Mars 3 you may want to hold off on redeeming the year of Pro until Chitubox has fixed their software.

Setting up and leveling the Mars 3 was a breeze, much like any of the other MSLA printers I’ve worked with from ELEGOO. There was no dedicated leveling paper like you’ll find with the ELEGOO Saturn. However, you simply place a normal sheet of paper between the screen and the build plate for setting the level. Following the simple instructions, I had the Mars 3 leveled and ready to print in just a couple of minutes.

As I didn’t have the USB drive, I decided to forego downloading and printing the standard ELEGOO rook chess piece demo model. Instead, I jumped right into printing some models that I’d acquired previously.

For all of my prints, I decided to use the ELEGOO water-washable ceramic grey resin, which I’d also used testing out the Mars Pro. I added both supports and a print platform for all the models when slicing in Chitubox.

When I was ready to begin, I inserted my USB drive containing the files I’d sliced, powered up the Mars 3, and selected the file I was going to print first.

Before we get too deep in the weeds with the quality of the prints from the Mars 3, let’s take a look at the Mercury X Bundle. After all, washing and curing are integral steps in finishing your resin prints.

Let’s go back to that first print I produced on the Mars 3. After allowing a bit of time to let the resin drip off the models into the tray, it’s time to wash the prints. With the Mercury X, you have two options: you can either remove the print from the build plate and use the metal basket, or you can submerge the entire build plate, using the included metal bracket. The bracket is sized in such a way that you can fit up to two ELEGOO Mars 3-sized build plates at a time or one ELEGOO Saturn build plate.

Aside from the issues with the Chitubox Pro software (which, to be fair, is a Chitubox issue and not an ELEGOO one), I’ve found my time working with all three of these machines to be a delight.

Let’s start with the Mars 3. Like all of the ELEGOO printers I’ve worked with, operating the Mars 3 is easy and intuitive. But with this printer, not only have I gotten probably the best resin prints I’ve made to date, but they’ve also printed the quickest. That very first set of models I printed took less than 3 hours.

The Mercury X Bundle was also very easy to work with. I appreciated that I could move the build plate directly from the Mars 3 to the Mercury X Washing Machine to clean my prints. And once I got a printing workflow going, I found that there were times that I was using both the washing and the curing machines at the same time, so having them both operating off the same power supply was very convenient. Not to mention that both machines were sized large enough to wash and cure models from any Elegoo printer up through the current size king, the Saturn. ELEGOO has an even larger printer, the Jupiter, coming to Kickstarter next month, but at this juncture, it’s hard to say if the Mercury X Bundle will accommodate prints from the Jupiter’s 12.8″ build plate.

As of this writing, both the Mars 3 and Mercury X Bundle Washing and Curing Machine are sold out from their initial preorder on the ELEGOO website. I fully expect ELEGOO is working hard to get more of these new machines built, as there’s sure to be high demand. The Mars 3, with an MSRP of $300, is a phenomenal printer, as you can see from the models I’ve produced. And at $150 for the Mercury X Bundle, the washing and curing machines will make your resin printing workflow much more efficient and convenient. You can also keep an eye on the ELEGOO store on Amazon for these machines to hopefully become available soon.

I highly recommend both the ELEGOO Mars 3 and the Mercury X Bundle Washing and Curing Machine. Using all three machines, you’ll quickly be producing some amazing, highly detailed 3D prints.

The Elegoo Mars 2 Pro is a compact 3D resin printer that produces incredibly detailed 3D prints that almost look injection moulded. And despite its impressive build quality it is reasonably priced at around £250 or $250.

Liquid resin sits in a resin tank on top of what is essentially a smartphone screen. The bottom of the tank has a thin clear plastic film made of FEP or Fluorinated ethylene propylene which is a non-stick material like Teflon. The models are printed upside down with a build plate that lowers on a single axis into the resin tank.

The build plate starts at the chosen layer height above the FEP film. UV light is shone through the LCD screen which displays each layer as a mask. The resin is cured or hardened by the UV light, but only in the unmasked areas. The build plate then pulls this hardened layer off the non-stick FEP film and then moves back down, this time one layer higher, building up the model one complete layer at a time. There are far more expensive SLA printers that use a laser to draw the layers, but the Mars 2 Pro, like most common resin printers, is more accurately referred to as a DLP or Digital Light Processing LCD resin 3D printer.

The main advantage of resin printers is the incredibly fine detail they produce. They have much higher horizontal resolution compared to FDM printers, which have to physically move a print head around. The horizontal resolution is based on the resolution on the LCD panel and for the Mars 2 Pro is 0.05mm.

You also have less choice of resins to print with compared to FDM printers, which can also print engineering grade materials like Nylon and Polycarbonate. So for structural parts, an FDM printer may still be a better choice. But I will be using a supposedly stronger ABS like resin from Elegoo in this review and also try mixing this with a tougher resin from Siraya Tech. So we’ll see what sort of results we can expect shortly.

The Mars 2 Pro has a 6.08” monochrome LCD screen with a 1620 x 2560 2K resolution. The monochrome LCD screen has a longer life than earlier printers with RGB screens and the mono LCD screens enable faster printing too with better UV light transmission.

The printer build volume is 129mm x 80mm with 160mm maximum height. Dividing the horizontal dimensions by the resolution of the screen gives the horizontal resolution of 0.05mm: 129mm divided by 2560.

Shake the resin bottle and fill the tank around a third of a way. Put the cover back on, insert the USB drive and select the Rook.ctb file and tap print. The LCD screen displays a thumbnail of the print files and the screen is quite responsive. It is quite dim though and you do need to look directly at it to see the icons.

I’m using the Elegoo Mercury Plus Wash and Cure Station to post process the prints, and quite honestly if you’re going to get a printer like this, I’d budget for one of these too. You don’t absolutely need one since you could wash the prints off in a tub with some IPA alcohol and a toothbrush and leave them out in the sun to fully cure or buy a cheap UV lamp if you live on Dartmoor. In this review I’ll be using this wash and cure station.

Apart from a little damage removing them from the build plate, the Rook models look very impressive in the grey Elegoo ABS-Like resin I’m using. This resin is meant to be tougher than their standard resin and since I like to print mainly functional parts rather I want the extra strength. And it’s about the same price too but it’s still a lot more expensive than rolls of filament – weight for weight it’s about twice the price. And since you need to add lots of supports for most prints there’s more wastage too. Not to mention failed prints.

Which brings me nicely on to my next print. Our shower rail broke a while back so I designed a replacement bracket in Fusion 360 which I’ve previously printed on an FDM printer. To convert the model into something the printer understands you need to slice it, just like with a filament based printer.

This takes the 3D models and divides it into slices or layers that the printer understands, based on your chosen layer height. Elegoo includes Chitubox which is fairly easy to use, although to use the latest version I also had to update the firmware on the machine. I’ll link to instructions on how to do this below.

There are plenty of tutorials online on how to use Chitubox and again I’ll link to a couple I’d recommend watching below. But I’ll cover some basics. Click on Settings and add the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro. For most Elegoo resins you shouldn’t need to change anything but for their translucent resins you’ll need to increase exposure times – that is how long the UV light comes on for for each layer. You can set that up here referring to this table.

Switch back to the File List tab and click Slice. You’ll get an indication of the print time which is always at least 30 mins quicker than the actual print time in my experience. And the cost in resin if you’ve entered the correct price and currency in Settings. There’s also a preview of the layers that will be sent to the LCD screen. A handy little feature here is the “Show isolated island layers”. Give it a minute or two and it’ll highlight in red any layers that will be printed in mid air – something you don’t want. Even if this doesn’t result in a failed print, it will mean resin stuck to your FEP sheet which means cleaning the resin tank before your next print. Save the .ctb file to your thumb drive and print.

When it’s completely clean, I gently also clean the LCD screen with a microfibre cloth and place the tank back in the printer. A little camera air blower is handy for making sure no dry particles remain in the FEP sheet.

So I attempted  to improve the release of the FEP sheet by rubbing in some PTFE lubricant with a dry soft paper towel – a tip I saw in aYouTube video from Bluebrain. I still had issues with prints sticking a little too well to the FEP sheet so I tried replacing the FEP sheet – Elegoo provide a couple of spares and a step by step tutorial on how to do this.

I found I could go a little lower than the default 2.5s – 2s gave slightly better results. And interestingly Lychee slicer uses 2s for this printer. Lychee slicer is an alternative to Chitubox and can still export .ctb files that can be printed off the Mars 2 Pro. I found it easier to use compared to Chitubox and it has more features in its free version. Although there is a 20s ad on the free version when you export a file.

My Garmin 1000 cycling computer’s power button has worn out so I printed out a replacement button off Thingiverse. This worked perfectly and although I’d printed this on my Prusa FDM printer before, it came out much better with the Mars 2 Pro.

I printed a belt buckle to see how much flex the Elegoo ABS-Like has. It came out quite nicely and there is plenty of flex, but it’s still brittle – the edge of the buckle broke after a few insertions.

Since I’d still like to use this printer mostly for functional prints, I started experimenting with tougher resins. There’s far less information about this online but I tried mixing the Elegoo ABS-like resin with Siraya Tech’s Tenacious resin which is tough and slightly flexible but also very expensive.

I tried a 3:1 ratio of Elegoo to Siraya Tech which brings the cost down, and should make for tougher prints with better impact resistance. I printed the exposure test again to confirm I didn’t need to adjust exposure times and went about printing two parts for the bumper of my son’s RC car which had broken off.

There are quite a few consumables you need for this printer or any resin printer as well as the resin itself. The FEP sheet will need replacing if it gets scratched or becomes cloudy. You definitely don’t want it tearing, since that could be very messy. As I mentioned the printer comes with 2 spare sheets and you can get a replacement set of 5 for around £20 or $20. Another option is some spare resin tanks which already have the FEP sheet installed and come with lids so handy if you want to print in different resins without having to empty and clean the tank.

The LCD screen is also considered a consumable but should last a fair bit longer although I couldn’t find any details on how long it should last with this printer. Prusa quote 2000 hours for their mono LCD screens. These aren’t too expensive – they’re currently listed at just over £30 or $30 on Amazon.

It’s difficult to find many faults with the Mars 2 Pro from Elegoo. Nearly everything about it is well built, from the base to the resin tank to the build platform. This is especially impressive considering its price. Although I really would budget in the Mercury Plus cleaning and curing station or something similar, to try and minimise contact with the resin and speed up post-processing. You do need to be very careful with the resin and follow all the safety precautions, but I wouldn’t let this put you off trying resin printing.

I would like to see a slightly higher quality FEP sheet that didn’t require manually coating with PTFE if at all possible, which I’ll come back to in a minute. And I don’t like the active charcoal filter not being user-replaceable. Ideally it’d be far more convenient if the covers for both the Mars 2 Pro and Mercury Plus were hinged in some way. Finding somewhere to put them is not always easy. And a resin level sensor would be a nice addition too.

If you want to dip your toes in resin printing though, I think this printer is an excellent option. There is also the Mars 3 that Elegoo has just released. It has a higher 4K resolution and a slightly larger build volume. And it has an upgraded FEP 2.0 sheet that I’d like to try on the Mars 2 Pro, as I alluded to earlier. But it’s their non pro version and doesn’t have the built in carbon filter. And it’s more expensive.

The Elegoo Mars 3* is one of the most accurate resin 3D printers. Due to the 4K resolution, it achieves an extremely accurate XY pixel size of only 35 µm. In contrast to its quasipredecessor, the Mars 2 Pro, the print volume was also increased by about 36% to 143.36 x 89.6 x 175 mm.

The Mars 3 comes as usual from Elegoo in a very compact but well-protected package. The 3D printer is completely pre-assembled and is protected by foam from transport damage.

Except for paper towels, resin and isopropyl alcohol, everything you need for your first test print is included. I think it’s very good of Elegoo to already include all the necessary tools and a few of the consumables like gloves, masks and filters. Fortunately, this standard has spread among the resin 3D printer manufacturers.

(you can read about which resin types are available in this article. The Mars 3 is compatible with 405 nm resin. I can recommend the plant-based resin from Anycubic*).

You can also get specialized wash & cure stations. Currently, there are very good ones from Elegoo (link to product*) and Anycubic (link to product*).

The assembly of the Elegoo Mars 3 is very simple and quick. The enclosed manual explains the complete process in understandable language and with sensibly placed graphics.

With the USB slot and on/off switch located on the front of the 3D printer, you can move it right up against the wall to save space. With a space-saving design that minimizes the horizontal dimensions of the resin container and Z-axis, the Mars 3 can fit anywhere.

The print bed leveling of the Elegoo Mars 3 is the same as with most modern resin 3D printers for the hobby sector. The leveling is supported by the menu. The inclination of the printing plate is adjusted manually with a paper, the Z0 position is set via the menu.

Place a piece of paper on the LCD screen. The paper should cover the screen completely and be about 0.1 mm thick (this is the standard thickness of normal paper).

Do not be afraid that the printing plate could collide with the LCD screen and damage it. You have loosened the two screws beforehand, so the printing plate can give way and not cause any damage.

This way you define the tilt of the printing plate and adjust it to the tilt of the LCD screen. This method is so simple and fast that you will find it on every resin 3D printer by now.

Before you can start printing, you should test the LCD screen. In the menu (Tool -> Exposure) you can set the time how long the test exposure should last. If you can see the complete text “ELEGOO TECHNOLOGY www.elegoo.com ” on the screen, the UV light source is working properly.

The Elegoo Mars 3 is the perfect complete package for beginners in resin 3D printing. It is fast, very accurate, has a relatively large print volume, comes with a 1-year license for ChiTuBox Pro and has other features that make it interesting for advanced users.

The new rounded design of the Mars 3 is noticeably different from the previous models in the Mars series. The Mars 3’s predecessors were very chunky and angular, where the Mars 3 now looks more rounded and modern.

What I myself was very pleased about is that all the controls, i.e. the USB slot, the on/off switch and the touchscreen, are placed at the front of the printer. This makes the operation much more comfortable and you can also place the printer in places that are a bit more cramped.

Since the last great revolution among hobby resin 3D printers, the monochrome LCD screen, the next revolution is now becoming standard: 4K resolution!

With a 4K resolution of 4098 x 2560 pixels, the Mars 3 gets a pixel size of just 35 µm. Not only does it have a larger print area than its predecessor, the

With the monochrome LCD screen, its high resolution and the larger print volume, it gets all 4 criteria of a good resin 3D printer with its low price.

Among the small Hobby Resin 3D printers, the Mars 3 is the largest! Due to its high resolution 4K 6.6 inch screen, it can afford a slightly larger print area and still maintain its very small pixel size.

For comparison, the print volume of the Mars 3 of 143.36 x 89.6 x 175 mm (= 2.25 l) is about 36% percent larger than that of the Mars 2 Pro with 129 x 80 x 160 mm (= 1.65 l).

With this relatively large print volume, you can print medium to large objects in one piece with the Mars 3, in addition to the smallest objects with a high resolution. In terms of print volume, however, it can by no means compete with a large-format 3D printer such as the Anycubic Photon Mono X 6K. But it doesn’t have to, since it’s in a completely different price range. Depending on the field you are in, you may not have a use for such a large printer and are even better served with a small printer like the Mars 3.

Another advantage of the new technology is the longer lifespan and the lower heat development. Nevertheless, the heat development is not negligible with the high performance, which is why the Mars 3 has been given a new, more efficient cooling system than its predecessors.

A resin 3D printer does not need a very complicated menu. Therefore, the Mars 3 has a very tidy and intuitively understandable menu which you can operate via the color 3.5-inch touch screen.

The improved FEP film of the Mars 3 has a thickness of only 0.127 mm. This makes it thinner than most other FEP films, allowing for even better print bed adhesion and more accurate print results.

The print plate of the Mars 3 has a rough, sandblasted surface and thus creates an extremely good print bed adhesion. The adhesion is so good that you have to lever the 3D prints with the metal spatula from the printing plate.

The resin tank of the Mars 3 is a bit higher than those of its predecessors. This is due to the fact that the print volume in the Z-direction has also become larger. Due to the larger print volume, larger objects are possible, which in turn consume more resin than smaller objects. So that you do not have to refill resin during printing, the edge of the container has been raised.

A disadvantage of the resin vat of the Mars 3 is the missing pouring corner. With many other resin 3D printers, there is a bulge at one corner that is intended for pouring. This would make pouring the remaining liquid resin much easier and it would not run so much down the edge of the container.

The operating noise levels of the Elegoo Mars 3 are in a normal range of 35 to 45 decibels at a distance of about 1 meter. Here, the fan volume is around 35 decibels and the combined volume of the fans and the moving Z-axis is 45 decibels.

According to Elegoo, the printing speed is 1.5 to 3 seconds per layer. Thanks to the monochrome and very powerful UV light source, the individual layers can be cured very quickly.

The Mars 3 can print layers from 0.01 mm to 0.2 mm thickness. Accordingly, an object printed with a layer thickness of 0.01 mm takes 20 times longer than an object printed with a layer thickness of 0.2 mm. But the longer time is definitely worth it because the details at 0.01 mm are impressive!

UI:The operation of the Elegoo Mars 3 is very simple. The menu is intuitively understandable and simple. The only criticism I have with the operation is that you can not move the Z-axis completely to the maximum by pressing a button.

PRINTING:Printing with the Elegoo Mars 3 is very comfortable. The print bed leveling lasts a very long time, so printing is basically just filling the resin container and starting the print.

The Elegoo Mars 3 has a very good print quality with layer thicknesses of up to 0.01 mm (10 µm) and an XY pixel size of 0.035 mm (35 µm). Slight edge smoothing via the slicer creates objects that are comparable to injection molded parts. Individual layers are not visible.

But even without edge smoothing, the results are really impressive! Where 50 µm pixel size in the XY direction was groundbreaking some time ago and then quickly became the standard, this resolution is now getting even smaller. The move to a 4K screen has definitely been the right decision by Elegoo.

The Elegoo Mars 3 is currently only compatible with the ChiTuBox slicer. There is also a predefined profile for it in the current version. You only have to adjust the settings for the exposure to your resin.

The free version of ChiTuBox is very popular and is compatible with a wide range of resin 3D printers. The slicer has all the standard features you need to create finished STL files for the Mars 3.

The Mars 3 also comes with a 1-year license for the Pro version of ChiTuBox. With this Pro version, you can customize the support structures, define multiple profiles in one file for different objects, repair defective surfaces, split models into multiple parts, measure sizes and distances and much more.

There are also special devices that can wash and cure. Two of them are the Elegoo Mercury Plus* and the Anycubic Wash & Cure 2.0*. You can check out a comparison of the two devices in this article: Elegoo Mercury Plus vs. Anycubic Wash & Cure 2.0.

Another useful accessory for the Mars 3 is a reusable resin filter*. The scope of delivery includes disposable filters that provide you with filters for a while. In the long run, however, a reusable filter pays off, as it not only saves you money but is also good for the environment as less waste is produced.

Due to the higher resolution of the LCD screen, the Mars 3 has an XY pixel size of only 35 µm. This is a noticeable jump from the 50 µm of the Mars 2 Pro. The high resolution of the LCD screen also allows the print area to be increased by about 25% – without sacrificing much of the XY pixel size.

Due to the larger printing plate and the extension of the Z-axis, the printing volume of the Mars 3 of 143.36 x 89.6 x 175 mm (= 2.25 l) is about 36% percent larger than that of the Mars 2 Pro with 129 x 80 x 160 mm (= 1.65 l).

Aside from the better resolution and larger print volume, the Mars 2 Pro still seems to have a few more handy features than the Mars 3, so the release of a “Mars 3 Pro” in the future is very likely.

Pouring corner in the resin container:The Mars 2 Pro has a pouring corner on its resin container at one of the four corners. This recess is missing from the Mars 3’s resin container. While this is not exactly the most important feature, it does reduce some of the mess when pouring out excess resin.

Built-in air filter:Next to the Z-axis of the Mars 2 Pro is the opening for the built-in air filter. Through this opening, the toxic resin fumes are extracted and somewhat mitigated by a built-in filter. The Mars 3 does not have a built-in air filter, but I didn’t notice that with the plant-based Eco Resin from Anycubic*.

Rubber seal:The protective cover of the Mars 2 Pro has a rubber seal, which encapsulates the inner volume even better from the environment. This allows even fewer gases to escape. The Mars 3 also lacks this feature, which would be handy for more aggressive resins. However, as long as you wear an FFP2 mask when in the same room as the 3D printer, this should not be a problem.

A 3D printer needs to print quickly and accurately – with as much volume as you need at a low price. If accuracy and print volume is more important to you than a few practical features, you should definitely buy the Mars 3!

The Mars 3 is not perfect because it lacks some comfort features (like the missing air filter or a WiFi connection), but convinces with its high resolution and the large print volume at a low price. And that is exactly what is important in a resin 3D printer!

The price-performance ratio is also increased by the 1-year license for ChiTuBox Pro. So if you were already thinking about trying out the Pro version, the bundle of the Pro version and the Mars 3 would be perfect for you.

The Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K* has a 4K resolution with a pixel size of 35 µm. With a print volume of 135 x 75 x 130 mm, it is much smaller than its competitor, the Elegoo Mars 3, whose print volume is about 70% larger at 143.36 x 89.6 x 175 mm.

Yes, you read that right. The fully-assembled Elegoo Mars is $250 US dollars – on Amazon. I bought mine on Amazon Canada, and I am tempted to buy a second one.

Previously, the darling of the MSLA crowd was the Anycubic Photon and Photon S. They are obviously feeling the heat because there have been several discounts of the Photon over summer, but none bring it down to $250. From what I can tell, the Photon doesn’t really have any substantial advantages over the Mars, other than air filtration, either.

While the Elegoo Mars was well-packaged, I did have to get a (free) replacement from Amazon because after printing off my first rook and a Battletech figurine, my LCD died.

I carefully opened the unit, following instructions on the official Elegoo video, and saw the cable was detached. Rather than attempt a repair I just waited a few days for a replacement unit.

For these prints I used Elegoo brand resin, which has been both the cheapest and the best I have found … which means it is often sold out, unfortunately.

My one complaint about the Elegoo Mars is the USB port is around the back. This means I have to reach around the back of the printer. Not so bad when it is on a desk, but means getting my face uncomfortably close to fumes when the printer is sitting on a shelf. I will get a USB extension cable to rectify this, not a biggie.

Chitubox comes with a great starter profile for the Elegoo Mars, with just tweaks needed for your specific resin, but it doesn’t always auto-generate supports everywhere you need them. It is a simple process to add additional supports, and when these prints can be 4-7 hours long, it is worth the effort.

When a print fails (almost always due to bad supports or curing settings), you will get partially cured resin floaters that need to be cleaned out. You will also need to clean when switching resins. Elegoo are going to be selling low-cost replacement resin vats, which will mean swapping will be far easier and cheaper. Currently the Photon vats are compatible but pricy (and a garish metallic blue).

If you"re looking for a resin 3D printer, then you may have heard of the Elegoo Mars. This elegant machine retails for under $300 and is capable of producing stunning 3D prints. It"s surprising how user-friendly this 3D printer is, which isn"t the case with every 3D printer we review. Read on to see our full analysis after the video.

The Elegoo Mars is a compact desktop 3D printer. This sleek unit works via a color touchscreen and the included USB flash drive. It"s compact enough to fit on your desk or into small spaces, and the UV-blocking cover is easily removed to allow quick access to the machine.

In a stylish dual-tone color scheme, the bottom third of the Elegoo Mars is brushed metal. It houses all the electronics, power input, and control panel. The top two-thirds contain the resin vat, Z-axis, and bed. The translucent orange cover lets you see how the print is shaping up but also serves to block ambient UV light from prematurely curing your resin and ruining an in-progress print.

The Elegoo Mars uses Stereolithography (SLA) to produce a solid model. The print bed is submerged into a vat of photosensitive resin. When this resin gets exposed to UV light, it solidifies. A modified LCD display and powerful UV LED work together to produce the shapes required for every layer, and this is what makes prints so accurate. There"s only one moving part in the form of the Z-axis.

The resin vat has a clear film on the bottom, which is stretched out like a drum skin. This prevents the resin from leaking out and ruining your machine, yet allows the light to pass and cure the resin. It can be easy to damage this sheet, and over time they can wear out and go cloudy. The replacement process is easy and cheap, but no spares are included.

As this 3D printer cures resin using an LCD display, you can print massive objects in both the X and Y axis without any impact on the speed. If you want to print one or five models, they all take the same time. This is because the LCD can cure the whole bed at once, so it"s only vertical height which increases the print time.

Running a 3D printer with a vat full of sticky resin plastic can seem daunting, but Elegoo makes this process extremely simple. This setup process far exceeds the standards set by the competition. It"s more work configuring a new mobile phone or games console than using this printer.

Before starting any prints you must level the bed. This doesn"t need doing often, but it needs doing at least once in the printer"s life. This involves undoing a screw, removing the resin VAT, and placing a piece of paper on the LCD. All the tools are provided where required. When you"re ready, you can begin the process through a button on the touchscreen. This machine handles the rest for you. It uses its sensors and motors to position the bed where it needs to be. This takes mere seconds, and when it"s done, you tighten up the screws and remove the paper.

All 3D printers need 3D models to be converted to machine-specific instructions, and the Mars is no exception. The process is called "slicing", as it involves cutting the model up into smaller layers. This machine comes bundled with a free slicer called "ChiTuBox". Boasting over 2,000,000 users, and designed for SLA 3D printing, this slicer is a dream to use. Its friendly interface lets you arrange print jobs, generate supports, adjust settings, and check final print layers. Not only this, but it"s very fast to slice and stable to use. Even with large files it rarely struggles or hangs.

The Elegoo Mars is a stunning resin 3D printer and while the price tag of around $300 seems a little steep when compared to the plethora of affordable FDM 3D printers, it represents an excellent entry point into ultra-high detail 3D printing. Machines such as the Formlabs Form 3 cost several thousand dollars, and so an affordable competitor is a welcome alternative.

This Elegoo Mars is a dream to use. It requires little maintenance, has only one moving part, and is almost "plug and play". You no longer have to worry about printer maintenance, rather, you can focus on designing cool 3D models to solve your problems (or print wicked little figures and trinkets).

Our friends at Elegoo have given us a brand new Mars LCD 3D printer which we are giving away for free. All you have to do for a chance at winning it is enter our contest below.

1. The screen will go through a strict exposure calibration test before leaving the factory. Most of the new screen damage is related to transportation After receiving the screen, first check whether the screen is normal. If there are cracks, or breakage please contact us within three days. We will give you a new screen or a refund.

2. Feedback after installation and use, it will not have a warranty. The screen is consumable.  Most of the environment, such as resin selection, printing techniques, etc, will affect the screen.

There"s never been a better time to join the world of 3D printing or, for experienced makers, to upgrade. With the right printer, you can make models, toys, hooks, stands, replacement parts for electronics or a new case for your Raspberry Pi. You can get one of the best 3D printers and plenty of material for well under $300 in 2022, so consider what you’ll be making with it and read on to learn more.

The list of improvements the Ender 3 S1 Pro has over the humble Ender 3 is massive. It has a Sprite direct drive with an all metal hotend, a PEI coated steel flex plate, a color touch screen, tension knobs, a storage drawer, a light kit and even a better spool holder. The S1 Pro also comes with a swappable tool head, allowing you to add the optional laser module for engraving.

If you’re getting into resin 3D printing for the first time, you have an overwhelming number of options and price points. The good news for beginners is you don’t have to sacrifice your budget for quality. You can find the easy-to-use Mars 2 Pro on sale for as little as $200.

The Anycubic Kobra Go is the perfect budget 3D printer for new makers wanting to learn the craft as well as seasoned pros who want a trouble free second (or third) machine. Sure, it doesn’t have a fancy touch screen, but it does have two features that make life easy: auto bed leveling and a PEI coated flex plate.

Anycubic kept the cost low – a remarkable $219 – by making this version a DIY Kit with a cheaper Bowden style extruder. Its tiny knob controlled screen might seem like a step backwards, but it’s so easy to navigate I didn’t even mind. The extra half hour or so spent assembling the printer is well worth the $100 dollars you’re saving when compared to the standard Kobra or the similarly kitted out Creality Ender 3v2 Neo(opens in new tab).

The Ender 5 S1 is a good all around printer with auto bed leveling, a PC coated flex plate and easy to use touch screen. It has an all metal direct drive that tames squirrelly filament – we printed completely string free flexi toys in both TPU and PETG, something not easily done.

If you’re looking for the most precise prints around, the Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K is your best choice. This MSLA resin 3D printer sports a 7.1-inch mono LCD screen that operates at 7500 x 3240, which results in a show-stopping 0.22mm XY resolution, the highest on the market. It comes fully assembled and is easy to use, just calibrate and go.

If you’re interested in printing models with lots of fine detail, the Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K should be on your short list. Using a 4K mono LCD screen, the Sonic Mini 4K is capable of printing high resolution models with a per-layer cure time of just over 2 seconds per layer. This translates to high detail and high speed, but you’ll pay for it in the difference in cost between the Sonic Mini 4K and other MSLA 3D printers like the Anycubic Photon.

The Elegoo Saturn is the counterpart to the smaller Elegoo Mars series of printers, which offer solid build quality for a reasonable price. The Saturn takes this formula to the extreme by offering a large 7.55 x 4.72 x 7.87-inch build volume while simultaneously increasing the resolution of the masking LCD. This, combined with the 2.5-second per-layer cure time from the Mono LCD, means that the Saturn can print more parts in the same