lcd screen blue quotation

Newhaven 16x2 character Liquid Crystal Display shows characters with white pixels on a blue background when powered on. This transmissive LCD Display requires a backlight for visibility while offering a wide operating temperature range from -20 to 70 degrees Celsius. This NHD-0216K1Z-NSW-BBW-L display has an optimal view of 6:00. This display operates at 5V supply voltage and is RoHS compliant.

ERMC1604SBS-1 is 16 characters wide,4 rows character lcd module,SPLC780C controller (Industry-standard HD44780 compatible controller),6800 4/8-bit parallel interface,single led backlight with white color included can be dimmed easily with a resistor or PWM,stn- blue lcd negative,white text on the blue color,wide operating temperature range,rohs compliant,built in character set supports English/Japanese text, see the SPLC780C datasheet for the full character set. It"s optional for pin header connection,5V or 3.3V power supply and I2C adapter board for arduino.

Q. I have two TVs and they both have a blue screen. I can’t get a picture on either one of them. They are both connected to our outside antenna so they should be working okay. Do you have any ideas? — Claire, Nashville.

Claire, there are several things you can do to fix a ‘blue screen’ TV, or at least determine if the problem is the TV or  something else. (In your case, I think it’s something else, but I’ll get to that later in the article.)

1. Whenever you get a blue screen on any TV, make sure your the video source to your TV (cable/satellite box, streaming device, or antenna) is on and your cables are connected securely. You would be surprised at how often cables get jostled by a pet, kid or something else, and become loose. If the video source is on and the cables are okay and you still get a blue screen or a ‘No Signal’ message, go to #2:

2. Pick up your TV remote and hit the Input or TV/Video button to see if there’s a signal coming from another source connected to your TV, such as a Blu-ray player or game console. For example, if you have your antenna connected to the HDMI1 port and it shows a blue screen or No Signal message, hit the Input or TV/Video button until it goes to another HDMI port where you have another device connected. If the second HDMI port also shows a blue screen — and you can’t find a signal or picture or any other port — go to #3.

(Note: If you only have one device connected to your TV, such as a cable or satellite receiver, try connecting it to a different HDMI port. If the second port still shows a blue screen, then go to #3.)

You say your antenna is connected to two separate TVs, and they both show a blue screen. It’s possible, but highly unlikely, then that the TVs are the concern. The most likely scenario here is that both TVs are not getting a signal from your antenna, which could mean you need a new antenna. The odds that both TVs failed at the same time is pretty high. However, just in case, try connecting the antenna to a third TV. If that shows a blue screen, too, then I think we can safely conclude it’s the antenna.

lcd screen recently turned a shade of blue tried to adjust the colours manually but the red appears to not haved any effect, yet when i adjust the green and blue colour does change

I"ve been playing around with a G9 (serial is 502111xxxx) and would love to keep it but this blue cast is terribly annoying when composing with the LCD.

A better test is looking at the LCD with polarized sunglasses. Like others have already mentioned, you cannot see anything on the LCD when looking at it straight (horizontally). However vertically (as if looking at portrait mode), not only is the screen visible but the colors are perfect! Grays are grays and no blue cast at all. Almost as if the LCD polarizing film was placed the wrong way...

Sorry I don"t have an immediate suggestion. I have had 150"s refuse to white balance and had to switch to auto white to continue the job. But they normally just deliver an image in a strong blue tint.

An Arduino Uno shield-style display module which comprises a graphic LCD mounted on a carrier board. This module is specifically designed to simply presses onto a controller with the Arduino Uno form factor, making it easy to begin designing with this display.

Ever had your TV showing nothing but a black screen even if the audio was working? Unfortunately, that’s a common issue with low/middle-end LCD/LED TVs these days… Even more frustrating, this issue often comes from a rather tiny and cheap component that can be easily replaced. Most common issues are:

The first step into repair is to find the root cause of the issue. As backlight failure is a very common issue, this is the first thing to test. To do so, the easiest way is to power on your screen, put a flashlight very close to it and check if you can see the image through. The image would be very dark, like turning the brightness of the screen very very low.

That implies disassembling the TV to access the backlight which is between the LCD screen in the front and the boards in the rear. In my case, with a Samsung F5000, I had to process as follows:

First we have to remove the back housing to reveal the boards (from left to right: main board, T-CON, power supply) and disconnect the LCD panel from the T-CON board.

Note: Older TVs have neon tubes for backlight, which is thicker and less exposed to this kind of failure. LED backlight is the most common thing these days, but do not mistake an LED TV with an OLED TV. The first one is a classic LCD panel with a LED backlight, whereas the second is an OLED panel that doesn’t need any backlight as it is integrated in each pixels (making the spare parts much more expensive by the way).

There might be a lot of other root causes for similar symptoms, a black screen often looks like something very serious and therefore expensive to repair, but this case is the perfect example that taking some time to look for the root cause can sometime lead to a good surprise: here a 1$ fix!