tft lcd color monitor not coming on in stock

one is a hardware fault, the other is a software problem. Although only these two big aspects but involved in the details of the aspect is very much, the following details about the display color abnormal possible reasons and solutions.

Monitor color is not normal, we recommend the first use of the elimination method, as far as possible to eliminate some simple problems. There are many reasons leading to the abnormal display of the display color, such as checking whether the display data line is normal, the display color control panelis not set well, poor contact, or rust of the display wire may lead to such problems.

For this kind of fault a lot of people say that the video card has a hardware fault, some people say that the picture tube was scrapped, and some people say that the driver of the video card was damaged, these views are wrong.

A kinescope-tube failure can cause this problem, but it is not irreparable – minor electric shocks, serious rewound filament power supply windings, and sometimes the visual discharge power supply resistance of a particular electron gun is miswelded or broken or the resistance value is increased.

For the first kind of fault phenomenon, some models only have a certain slight leakage of electricity between the poles, which usually need no maintenance. They only have aninstant color deviation when starting up, which can be normal in a few seconds.

For the contact pole (sometimes only leakage) fault you can only hand it over to professional maintenance personnel for maintenance, its characteristics are usually caused by the protective shutdown. For irregular deviation color fault usually as long as the relevant electron gun visual power supply resistance and peripheral components repair welding can be done.

For the power supply resistance is broken damage caused by the fault phenomenon and contact pole for full screen back sweep wire and very bright color, but it will not lead to a protective shutdown, the solution is very simple – change the same resistance value of the new resistance! Of course, if the resistance value is increased, you also have to do new processing. In the wet season, we also need to take into account the picture tube seat tube oxidation for this reason, although the resulting color deviation fault is not much, but may encounter it.

In addition, there is easier to let people detour the cause of failure – screen dust caused by too much screen white when red! This kind of fault often happens in the monitor that color temperature slants warm (a lot of monitors can set color temperature by oneself), say so, encounter white (and similar color) slants red when the fault you had better be cleaned the first screen later undertake other checks, if the fault disappears, mean you won’t because of this and “unlucky” detour. Of course, too low brightness values on some models can also cause this “fault” phenomenon.

If all of the above methods are ineffective and the display is well over five years old, we can consider the color deviation of the display caused by the aging of the electron gun to be abnormal.

Some half professionals see the two faults as a tube in life, some of the maintenance personnel to see will say adjust the contrast and the focusing extremely potentiometer and accelerate the potentiometer on the ignition coil will be good, others say it’s caused by a hardware failure or graphics driver damage of graphics, these point of failure judgment is wrong.

The aging of the kinescope and the decline, in contrast, will not cause such failure phenomenon, as for the adjustment of the collector and the acceleration of the electrode potentiometer is not correct, this is palliative, and it is difficult to adjust to a satisfactory degree, the most troublesome is that the fault will soon return, even accelerate the aging of the kinescope.

Usually use more than 2 years of the color display will appear this kind of fault, the real cause of the fault is mostly caused by the picture tube seat moisture oxidation, as long as the replacement of the original new tube seat can be troubleshoot. But some say it would be gilding the gilt by using a small piece of sandpaper to polish the protruding end of the tube to remove the oxide. In the picture tube that the author has replaced the tube seat, some of them do have some oxides on the tube foot, but these oxides are missing from the original tube seat to the tube foot, which can be removed with a brush. Up to now, the author did not see the tube was oxidized, but due to excessive force and make the tube leakage and damage the picture tube is encountered a few cases, so we do not use sandpaper to burnish, so as not to appear “death” damage!

If the replacement of the tube seat is not effective will replace the FBT, but in this work, the author suggests you had better find professional personnel! In addition, some types of visual amplifier parts of the circuit are more special, sometimes after the fault will also cause the image blur. But at this time usually the brightness and line, field amplitude are also abnormal, for this kind of fault point the author recommends that you deliver professional personnel to deal with! If the color display is not a brand-name product and the use of a very long time, then the author suggests that you find a professional electrical maintenance department to replace the work of the tube seat, so as to avoid the occurrence of pipe neck leakage and other accidents after the responsibility!

1) the image is clear at the beginning of starting up, but the color of the display is abnormal as the use time is prolonged and the display becomes increasingly blurred;

2) the image occasionally becomes blurry in use, but it can return to normal soon. However, it becomes more serious and frequent after several days or months of use.

Some people think that this kind of fault is the problem of the line circuit of the monitor — it may be the poor thermal stability of the line tube, the reverse diode, reverse capacitor, and other components or the result of virtual welding. This is completely wrong because none of these components can affect the clarity of the image.

The real failure point of the type 1 fault phenomenon is usually due to the aging of the focusing knob of the FBT. You can try to replace an FBT first. Of course, if the monitor has been in use for more than six years, then we need to take into account the possibility of tube aging. In addition, it may be the tube seat of the picture tube and the large area of the negative copper foil leakage phenomenon caused by the displacer (after analysis like design problems), so sometimes into a maintenance dilemma after the replacement of a genuine tube seat try.

The type 2 fault phenomenon, is usually caused by the poor quality of the picture tube holder. You can solve the problem by replacing it with a new one.

A lot of people think this is the mains voltage of the mains electricity is the insufficient or unstable cause, some “master” can say even because of the lamps and lanterns that contains electronic ballast or electromechanical kind electric appliance brings color to show the interference of power source, somebody says the hardware fault that the video card produced is caused by. In fact, these views are wrong, because the display voltage requirements are not very strict – most of the current color display can be in the 100V ~ 240V power supply voltage under normal operation. As for other electrical appliances that will cause interference is even more impossible, after all, color display use is not mutual inductance stabilized voltage power supply, and other electrical appliances even if the interference will not be screen flicker!

The real fault causes of the first two kinds of faults are usually caused by the virtual welding of some components in the line circuit or the reduction of the +300V filter capacitance at the power supply. The latter possibility is not very high – only in a few models and its more serious loss of volume will cause the human eye to distinguish the flicker. In addition, the circuit of the visual amplifier power supply part of some models is special, and sometimes a component of this part may also cause this fault. Of course, if you set your monitor’s resolution and refresh rate too high or too low, you can set the resolution and refresh rate to the middle value.

There is also a video card or monitor driver there are bugs, so you should first update the driver to try. If the above treatment is not effective, you can focus on checking whether the accelerator voltage and high voltage generated by the FBT are normal, because sometimes these two abnormal voltages can also cause such a phenomenon.

The poor contact of the video card usually causes the failure of starting up and there is an alarm sound or the system is unstable resulting in a crash and other failures. The reason for the poor contact of the graphics card is that the gold finger of the graphics card is oxidized, dust, the quality of the graphics card is poor or the baffle of the case has a problem. For the golden finger oxidation caused by poor contact, can use an eraser to wipe the golden finger to solve; For dust caused by poor contact, general removal of dust can be solved; For the hardware quality caused by poor contact, usually through the replacement method to detect, generally replace the video card to solve; For the case baffle problem caused by poor contact, usually the video card can not be fully inserted into the video card slot, can be replaced by the case to eliminate.

Compatibility failure will usually cause the computer can not to start up and alarm sound, the system is not stable crash or screen abnormal miscellaneous phenomenon. Display card compatibility fault generally occurs in the computer just installed or upgrade, more in the motherboard and display card is not compatible or motherboard slot and display card gold finger can not completely contact. The video card compatibility fault usually USES the replacement method to detect, generally USES the replacement video card to troubleshoot the fault.

The failure of the components of the graphics card will usually cause the failure of the computer can not startup, the system is not stable crash, flower screen, and other fault phenomena. The damage of graphics components generally includes the damage of graphics chip, BIOS, memory, capacitance, or field-effect tube. For the damage and failure of graphics card components, it is generally necessary to carefully measure the signals in the graphics card circuit to judge the damaged components. After finding the damaged components, replace them.

Due to the graphics chip will produce a lot of heat when working, so need to have a better cooling condition, if the cooling fan damage will lead to graphics card overheating can not work normally. The overheat fault of the graphics card usually causes the system unstable crash, flower screen, and other fault phenomena. Video card overheating as long as the replacement of the cooling fan.

The failure of the graphics driver usually causes the system unstable crash, flower screen, text image graphics card is not complete, and other fault phenomena. The video driver’s fault mainly includes the loss of the video driver, the video driver is incompatible with the system, the video driver is damaged, and the video driver cannot be installed. For the video card, driver failure generally first enter the “device manager” to see whether there is a video card driver, if not, re-install. If so, but the graphics driver has a “!”, the video card driver is not installed, the driver version is not correct, the driver and the system are not compatible. Generally, remove the video card driver reinstall, if installed after there are “!”, you can download the new version of the driver installation. If you cannot install a graphics driver, there is usually a problem with the driver or with the registry.

CMOS setup failure is caused by the error of displaying related options in CMOS. Common CMOS setup failures mainly include: integrated graphics card motherboard, CMOS graphics card shielding options setting error; For example, the “AGP Driving Control” option is incorrectly set (usually “AUTO”), “AGP Aperture Size” option is incorrectly set, and “FAST Write Supported” option is incorrectly set.CMOS error is generally modified by loading the default BIOS value.

If the fault is serious, the maintenance requires that you must have certain hands-on ability and professional knowledge, so the author suggests that if you still have not been repaired after eliminating the simple cause of the fault, please deliver it to the electrical maintenance department for treatment. Sometimes some magnetic objects (such as some low power box or ADSL cat power supply, etc.) placed near the display will cause a certain Angle flicker on the screen, so when this phenomenon to try to clear the display around the objects to see, usually the problem can be solved.

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If the picture responds to input but displays a messy image, such as jumbled multicolored squares, the AV (audio visual) board may be damaged. This is usually a rectangular circuit board located near the audio and visual cables. Replace obviously damaged parts using a soldering iron, or order a replacement board and carefully install it to the same screws and ribbon cables.

The main control buttons may be faulty. Clean them with a metal cleaner, or jostle to attach a loose connection. If necessary, locate the circuit board they are attached to and re-solder any broken connections.

Check input cables for damage, or try other cables of the same type. If necessary, inspect the circuit board they are attached to and re-solder damaged connections.

That annoying dead pixel on your TFT, OLED, or LCD screen might just be stuck and easy to fix. We"ll show you how to do it. You can still return your monitor if this doesn"t work; nothing we recommend here will void your warranty.

Yes, you should test any new monitor for bad pixels. You can simply run your screen through a palette of basic colors, as well as black and white in full-screen mode using a tool like EIZO Monitor Test.

EIZO Monitor Test is an online tool that lets you find and eventually fix stuck pixels. It packs many options into a single test window, but it"s easy to use once you have an overview.

To test your screen, check all the boxes you want to include in your test. We recommend the default setting of having all boxes checked. If you"re testing multiple monitors, you can open the test on an additional monitor. When you"re ready, click Start test to launch the full-screen test window.

Below you see the first test pattern. Each screen has an explainer in the bottom right detailing what you should look for. Next, you"ll see a menu that lets you go from one test to the next on the left. Move through the black and white screens and all the solid colors (green, blue, and red) and check our screen. To exit, press the ESC key or the exit symbol in the top right.

This is a very thorough test not only meant to identify bad pixels but also powerful enough to test the quality of your monitor. Unfortunately, with Flash no longer supported by most browsers, you"ll probably have to use the executable version to make it work.

Move the mouse to the top of the test window, and a menu will appear. There is an info window that you can turn off with a button in the top right corner of the menu. Then click on the Homogenuity test point and move through the three colors as well as black and white.

Fingers crossed, you won"t discover anything out of the ordinary. In the unfortunate case that you do, let"s see whether it"s a stuck or a dead pixel and what you can do about it.

A stuck pixel, sometimes wrongfully referred to as a hot pixel, is defective because it receives incomplete information. Hence, it appears in one of the colors that its three sub-pixels can form, i.e., red, green, or blue. Strictly speaking, hot pixels only appear in digital cameras when electrical charges leak into the camera"s sensor wells. Sometimes, stuck pixels fix themselves.

The tool will load a black browser window with a square of flashing pixels. Press the green button in the bottom right to go full-screen. Drag the flashing square to where you found the stuck pixel and leave it there for at least 10 minutes.

UDPixel, also known as UndeadPixel, is a Windows tool. It can help you identify and fix pixels using a single tool. The program requires the Microsoft .NET Framework. If you"re not on Windows or don"t want to install any software, scroll down for the online tools below.

Should you spot a suspicious pixel, switch to the Undead pixel side of things, create sufficient amounts of flash windows (one per stuck pixel), and hit Start. You can drag the tiny flashing windows to where you found odd pixels.

The PixelHealer lets you flash a combination of black, white, all basic colors, and a custom color in a draggable window with customizable size. You can even change the flashing interval and set a timer to close the app automatically.

Let it run through all colors in Auto mode to spot whether you have any weird pixels on your screen. If you do, start the fix, which will rapidly flash your entire screen with black, white, and basic color pixels.

Should none of these tools resolve your stuck or dead pixel issue, here is one last chance. You can combine any of the tools detailed above and the magic power of your own hands. There is a very good description of all available techniques on wikiHow. Another great step-by-step guide can be found on Instructables.

This works because, in a stuck pixel, the liquid in one or more of its sub-pixels has not spread equally. When your screen"s backlight turns on, different amounts of liquid pass through the pixel to create different colors. When you apply pressure, you"re forcing the liquid out, and when you release the pressure, chances are the liquid will push in, spreading around evenly as it should.

When all attempts to revive your bad pixel fail, the next best thing you can do is to make peace with it. One ugly pixel won"t break your screen, and eventually, you"ll forget about it. If the defect affects more than a single pixel, however, or just bothers you a lot, you can always replace your monitor.

First, check the warranty. The manufacturer or the marketplace where you purchased the monitor might cover dead pixels. Note that most manufacturers define a maximum number of allowable bad pixels for specific resolutions, and the warranty won"t apply until your monitor crosses that threshold.

Bright or dark sub-pixels can occur during the production of the LCD Monitor panel but does not affect the LCD Monitor functionality. The customer may notice the bright or dark spots if the film of the liquid crystal does not perform as expected while customers uses the LCD monitor. However, this is not considered a defect unless the number of bright and dark subpixels exceeds the maximum allowable threshold (...)

On a monitor with over 12 million pixels (Wide QXGA+, 2560x1600 pixels), for example, LG"s pixel policy says that 12 bright or dark sub-pixels is the maximum you have to tolerate.

Should all of these approaches fail to fix your dead pixel warrior, at least you"ll now know it"s not simple to fix, and, you might actually have to replace the screen.

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When your backup camera stops working suddenly, it’s a raw deal. This technology is enormously beneficial, preventing accidents, helping with parallel parking, and more. When it goes out, you’re left with one less tool in your safe driving toolbox.

Luckily, backup camera troubleshooting doesn’t require too much on your part, and most backup camera problems can be diagnosed and solved without too much effort (or too much cash). We’re going to help you out, answering common backup camera problems FAQ style. Let’s go!

Tackling a difficult problem can often leave you feeling that you don’t know what to do next. Especially when it comes to solving problems with your backup camera, the first thing you have to determine is how much control you’re realistically going to have over fixing the problem. If your backup camera problems seem a bit too overwhelming or out of your skillset, talk to a mechanic to get help.

But, if you’re an intrepid DIYer, having the tools and knowhow necessary to understand how car electrical systems work can be essential in your troubleshooting journey. You can also checkout our guide on fixing afoggy backup camera & some quick tips forhere’s a handy guide that walks you through many common electrical problems and gives you the tools necessary to troubleshoot an electrical problem.

Well, the answer to this question requires us to get more specific, which we’ll start to answer in the questions below. But first, to get the obvious troubleshooting steps out of the way, put your car in reverse. What does the display say? “No signal?” Or is it just black? Do you have black and white visual noise? Depending on the answers to those questions, you’ll probably find your answer below. That said, the distance from basic issue to easy fix and then onto finding out your camera has bit the dust can be pretty short.

There are a number of reasons that your camera might be giving you this message. If it’s a wifi camera, and it was working previously, it likely means that the camera or the display needs a reset. (You can check out some of our thoughts aboutwired vs wireless backup camerashere) It also wouldn’t hurt to check your fuses and the power cables for the camera (usually located behind the trunk panel of your car. Possibly, a fuse may have blown or a wire may have frayed and become disconnected. (This is probably the best case scenario with these kinds of issues.)

If you have a wired backup camera, wiring is more likely the problem. Again, checking your fuses to ensure everything is connected (and not blown) and going and tracing the wiring and cables from the camera to the display will reveal the problem to you. If your display is embedded in the dashboard, start at the camera and work to the display, as removing a dashboard display can be a difficult process, and you only want to do it as a last resort.

If your backup camera display is flashing or giving you black and white static, it’s likely the case that you have a fraying wire or a faulty connection. Make sure all of the cables and connections in your backup camera system are fully connected and repair any damage.

You’re probably starting to sense a theme here. If your display is not powering on at all, it’s likely a problem with the display, not the camera, so check the wiring diagrams for your car. (If you installed the monitor yourself, double check your work. Plugging the camera into the AUX dash cable rather than video feed is a common problem with home installs. ). More likely than not, if your display is not powering on, it’s either improperly connected (make sure that you’ve got the right level of power being sent to the display) or the monitor is damaged or broken. I’ll also add since it has come up before, that many people install their backup camera to only work when the car is in reverse, so make sure you’ve actually given reversing a go.

If the display is powering on, and it doesn’t say that there is no signal, your camera might be the issue. Check it for damage, and replace it if necessary.

That annoying dead pixel on your TFT, OLED, or LCD screen might just be stuck and easy to fix. We"ll show you how to do it. You can still return your monitor if this doesn"t work; nothing we recommend here will void your warranty.

Yes, you should test any new monitor for bad pixels. You can simply run your screen through a palette of basic colors, as well as black and white in full-screen mode using a tool like EIZO Monitor Test.

EIZO Monitor Test is an online tool that lets you find and eventually fix stuck pixels. It packs many options into a single test window, but it"s easy to use once you have an overview.

To test your screen, check all the boxes you want to include in your test. We recommend the default setting of having all boxes checked. If you"re testing multiple monitors, you can open the test on an additional monitor. When you"re ready, click Start test to launch the full-screen test window.

Below you see the first test pattern. Each screen has an explainer in the bottom right detailing what you should look for. Next, you"ll see a menu that lets you go from one test to the next on the left. Move through the black and white screens and all the solid colors (green, blue, and red) and check our screen. To exit, press the ESC key or the exit symbol in the top right.

This is a very thorough test not only meant to identify bad pixels but also powerful enough to test the quality of your monitor. Unfortunately, with Flash no longer supported by most browsers, you"ll probably have to use the executable version to make it work.

Move the mouse to the top of the test window, and a menu will appear. There is an info window that you can turn off with a button in the top right corner of the menu. Then click on the Homogenuity test point and move through the three colors as well as black and white.

Fingers crossed, you won"t discover anything out of the ordinary. In the unfortunate case that you do, let"s see whether it"s a stuck or a dead pixel and what you can do about it.

A stuck pixel, sometimes wrongfully referred to as a hot pixel, is defective because it receives incomplete information. Hence, it appears in one of the colors that its three sub-pixels can form, i.e., red, green, or blue. Strictly speaking, hot pixels only appear in digital cameras when electrical charges leak into the camera"s sensor wells. Sometimes, stuck pixels fix themselves.

The tool will load a black browser window with a square of flashing pixels. Press the green button in the bottom right to go full-screen. Drag the flashing square to where you found the stuck pixel and leave it there for at least 10 minutes.

UDPixel, also known as UndeadPixel, is a Windows tool. It can help you identify and fix pixels using a single tool. The program requires the Microsoft .NET Framework. If you"re not on Windows or don"t want to install any software, scroll down for the online tools below.

Should you spot a suspicious pixel, switch to the Undead pixel side of things, create sufficient amounts of flash windows (one per stuck pixel), and hit Start. You can drag the tiny flashing windows to where you found odd pixels.

The PixelHealer lets you flash a combination of black, white, all basic colors, and a custom color in a draggable window with customizable size. You can even change the flashing interval and set a timer to close the app automatically.

Let it run through all colors in Auto mode to spot whether you have any weird pixels on your screen. If you do, start the fix, which will rapidly flash your entire screen with black, white, and basic color pixels.

Should none of these tools resolve your stuck or dead pixel issue, here is one last chance. You can combine any of the tools detailed above and the magic power of your own hands. There is a very good description of all available techniques on wikiHow. Another great step-by-step guide can be found on Instructables.

This works because, in a stuck pixel, the liquid in one or more of its sub-pixels has not spread equally. When your screen"s backlight turns on, different amounts of liquid pass through the pixel to create different colors. When you apply pressure, you"re forcing the liquid out, and when you release the pressure, chances are the liquid will push in, spreading around evenly as it should.

When all attempts to revive your bad pixel fail, the next best thing you can do is to make peace with it. One ugly pixel won"t break your screen, and eventually, you"ll forget about it. If the defect affects more than a single pixel, however, or just bothers you a lot, you can always replace your monitor.

First, check the warranty. The manufacturer or the marketplace where you purchased the monitor might cover dead pixels. Note that most manufacturers define a maximum number of allowable bad pixels for specific resolutions, and the warranty won"t apply until your monitor crosses that threshold.

Bright or dark sub-pixels can occur during the production of the LCD Monitor panel but does not affect the LCD Monitor functionality. The customer may notice the bright or dark spots if the film of the liquid crystal does not perform as expected while customers uses the LCD monitor. However, this is not considered a defect unless the number of bright and dark subpixels exceeds the maximum allowable threshold (...)

On a monitor with over 12 million pixels (Wide QXGA+, 2560x1600 pixels), for example, LG"s pixel policy says that 12 bright or dark sub-pixels is the maximum you have to tolerate.

Should all of these approaches fail to fix your dead pixel warrior, at least you"ll now know it"s not simple to fix, and, you might actually have to replace the screen.

Is there any damage to the Monitor? If so, it will not be covered under warranty, and you will need to purchase a replacement Monitor. If not please proceed.

If so swap the Power Cord on your monitor with the Cord plugged into your computer, does the monitor now give a PLED? If not we can rule out everything external to your Monitor. You will need to contact your Technical support about a replacement if the Monitor is still under warranty.

If not, check if you are getting power from other power sockets in the same location. If so move the devices to those sockets and test? You need to confirm that the issue is not a general power outage. Or an issue with the power sockets you have the Power Cords plugged to, before you can take this further.

Is there any damage to the Buttons? If so it will not be covered under warranty, and you will need to purchase a replacement Monitor. If not please proceed.

For monitors manufactured before 2009, press and hold the menu select button. If the menu comes up - reset the factory defaults and test if this resolves your problem? If not then you will want to contact your technical support to take this further.

For monitors manufactured between 2009 and March 2016, press and hold buttons1 and 4 simultaneously for two (2) seconds. If self-diagnostics appear, run them and reset the monitor to defaults if they pass. If not then contact your technical support with the error and troubleshooting done.

For monitors manufactured after March 2016, press and hold button1 for five (5) seconds. If self-diagnostics appear, run them and reset the monitor to defaults if they pass. If not then contact your technical support with the error and troubleshooting done.

If it does, disconnect all cables other than the Power Cord and advise if the issue continues when it is not plugged to the PC? If it does not, then replace the cables and test if the issue returns. If it does, then contact your Technical Support to see if you are covered for a replacement.

If it does not, have you checked for any external environmental issue or if any power save modes has been configured? Is the Monitor powered off when not in use? Is there sufficient airflow around the Monitor when in use? Is the location having issues with heat that might affect the equipment that is used in that area? I would advise contacting your Technical Support to go over this with you.

Is the screen warmer than an identical Monitor that has been on for the same amount of time? Is the monitor too hot to touch? If so please contact your Technical Support to confirm if your eligible for a replacement. If not, it would be considered to still be working ok.

Is there any damage to the Monitor? If so it will not be covered under warranty, and you will need to purchase a replacement Monitor. If not please proceed.

Is there any damage to the Monitor? If so it will not be covered under warranty, and you will need to purchase a replacement Monitor. If not please proceed.

For monitors manufactured before 2009, press and hold the menu select button. If the menu comes up - reset the factory defaults and test if this resolves your problem? If not then you will want to contact your technical support to take this further.

For monitors manufactured between 2009 and March 2016, press and hold buttons1 and 4 simultaneously for two (2) seconds. If self-diagnostics appear, run them and reset the monitor to defaults if they pass. If not then contact your technical support with the error and troubleshooting done.

For monitors manufactured after March 2016, press and hold button1 for five (5) seconds. If self-diagnostics appear, run them and reset the monitor to defaults if they pass. If not then contact your technical support with the error and troubleshooting done.

If the self-test passes, swap out your Video cable and test if the issue is resolved. If so contact your technical support for a replacement cable if you are still in warranty. If it is still showing the same issue, proceed with next step.

Monitors are now sold with 3 years warranty as standard. If your Monitor is under 3 years old, it will automatically be in warranty as that is now the shortest possible warranty period.

Monitors that are purchased in a bundle with a PC take on the warranty of that PC. They can be covered for up to 5 years, as long as the PC is in warranty.

With this information, a Technical Agent can log a case for you. They will go through whether there are any problems with the warranty or log a service call with you.

Troubleshooting CRTs versus LCDs begins with similar steps, but diverges due to the differing natures of the two display types. The first troubleshooting steps are similar for either display type: power down the system and display and then power them back up; make sure the power cable is connected and that the outlet has power; verify that the signal cable is connected firmly to both video adapter and display and that there are no bent pins; verify that the video adapter is configured properly for the display; try the problem display on a known-good system, or try a known-good display on the problem system; and so on. Once you"ve tried the "obvious" troubleshooting steps, if the problem persists, the next step you take depends on the type of display. The following sections cover basic troubleshooting for CRTs and LCDs.

CRTs seldom fail outright without obvious signs, such as a loud snap or a strong odor of burning electrical components. Most CRT problems are really problems with the power, video adapter, cable, or hardware/software settings. To eliminate the CRT as a possible cause, connect the suspect CRT to a known-good system, or connect a known-good display to the suspect system. It is worth noting, that older CRTs eventually wear out, and starts dimming. Common signs of a weak CRT are a dim picture, dysfunctional brightness and/or color controls, image smearing at high brightness, and in color CRTs, a tint towards a single color (Red Green Blue)

If the CRT is the problem, it is often not worth repairing. If the CRT is out of warranty, parts and labor may cost more than buying a new CRT, which also gives you better specs and a warranty. About the only CRTs we"d even consider repairing out-of-warranty are high-end 21" or larger models, and even there the economics are dubious.

Even if the CRT is in warranty, the shipping costs may exceed the value of the CRT. For example, shipping a CRT both ways can easily cost $75 or more. If that CRT is a year-old 17" model, you"re probably better off spending $100 to $200 for a new 17" or 19" CRT than paying $75 in shipping to have the old one repaired. CRTs have many components, all of which age together. Fixing one is no guarantee that another won"t fail shortly. In fact, that happens more often than not in our experience.

Never disassemble a CRT. At best, you may destroy the CRT. At worst, it may destroy you. Like televisions, CRTs use extremely high voltages internally, and have large capacitors that store that energy for days or even weeks after the CRT is unplugged. Robert once literally burned a screwdriver in half when working inside a color television that had been unplugged for several days. Also, the large, fragile tube may implode, scattering glass fragments like a hand grenade. People who repair CRTs and televisions for a living treat them with great respect, and so should you. If you must repair a CRT, take it to someone who knows what they are doing. You have been warned.

Check the obvious things first. Verify that the CRT is plugged in (and that the receptacle has power), the video cable is connected to the video card, the computer and CRT are turned on, and the brightness and contrast settings are set to the middle of their range. If none of these steps solves the problem, your CRT, video card, or video cable may be bad. Check the suspect CRT on a known-good system or a known-good CRT on the problem system.

CRTs contain multiple filaments, which can be broken, or gas may have leaked into the vacuum inside the CRT. CRTs damaged this way are unrepairable without specialist equipment. With the display open. check if all three filaments are glowing bright orange. Excessive redness or purple arcing signifies gas has leaked in. There may also be an internal short inside the CRT, which is also unfixable without specialist equipment.

If you have ACPI or APM power management enabled, it may be causing the problem. Some systems simply refuse to wake up once power management puts them to sleep. We have seen such systems survive a hardware reset without restoring power to the CRT. To verify this problem, turn off power to the system and CRT and then turn them back on. If the CRT then displays an image, check the power management settings in your BIOS and operating system and disable them if necessary.

The horizontal and/or vertical deflection system has failed. The CRT tube itself is fine, but the circuitry driving the tube has failed. Replace the display.

This is a hardware problem with one of the electron guns. Replace the CRT. This problem may also manifest as a strong color cast during normal operation that is not correctable using the normal color balance controls.

Catastrophic CRT failure is imminent. The noises are caused by high-voltage arcing, and the smell is caused by burning insulation. Unplug the CRT from the wall before it catches fire, literally.

There are two likely causes. First, you may be driving the CRT beyond its design limits. Some CRTs display a usable image at resolutions and/or refresh rates higher than they are designed to use, but under such abuse the expected life of the CRT is shortened dramatically, perhaps to minutes. To correct this problem, change video settings to values that are within the CRT"s design specifications. Second, the power receptacle may be supplying voltage lower than the CRT requires. To correct this problem, connect the CRT to a different circuit or to a UPS or power conditioner that supplies standard voltage regardless of input voltage.

This is usually a minor hardware problem. The most likely cause is that the signal cable is not connected tightly to the CRT and/or video card, causing some pins to make contact intermittently or not at all. Verify that no pins are loose, bent, or missing on the cable or the connectors on the CRT and video card, and then tighten the cable at both ends, If that doesn"t fix the problem, open the computer, remove the video card, and reseat it fully.

In elderly systems, another possible cause is that some hardware DVD decoder cards "steal" one color (usually magenta) and use it to map the DVD video signal onto the standard video signal. Remove the DVD decoder card. If your video adapter includes hardware DVD support, or if you are upgrading to such an adapter, you don"t need a DVD decoder card.

The most likely cause is that the CRT is receiving inadequate power. Connect it to a different circuit or to a backup power supply that provides correct voltage regardless of fluctuations in mains voltage.

The most likely cause is that the refresh rate is set too low. Change the refresh rate to at least 75 Hz. Flicker also results from interaction with fluorescent lights, which operate on 60 Hz AC and can heterodyne visually with the CRT. This can occur at 60 Hz (which is far too low a refresh rate anyway), but can also occur at 120 Hz. If you"re running at 120 Hz refresh and experience flicker, either use incandescent lighting or reset the refresh rate to something other than 120 Hz.

Most modern CRTs can display signals at many different scan frequencies, but this doesn"t mean that the CRT will necessarily automatically display different signals full-screen and properly aligned. Use the CRT controls to adjust the size and alignment of the image.

Depending on the CRT, video card, and video settings, this may be normal behavior, adjustable using the CRT controls. If the distortion is beyond the ability of the controls to correct, the problem may be with the video card, the CRT, or the driver. First try changing video settings. If the problem persists at several settings, move that CRT to a different system (or use a different video card) to determine whether the problem is caused by the CRT or video card. Repair or replace the faulty component.

This is usually caused by RF interference from another electrical or electronic device, particularly one that contains a motor. Make sure such devices are at least three feet from the CRT. Note that such interference can sometimes penetrate typical residential and office walls, so if the CRT is close to a wall, check the other side. Such image problems can also be caused by interference carried by the power line or by voltage variations in the AC power supply. To eliminate interference, plug the CRT into a surge protector. Better still, plug it into a UPS or power conditioner that supplies clean power at a constant voltage.

This problem may also be caused by using a video cable that is too long or of poor quality or by using a poor-quality KVM switch (keyboard/video/mouse switch). Manual KVM switches are particularly problematic.

The CRT may need to be degaussed. A CRT that sits in one position for months or years can be affected even by the earth"s very weak magnetic field, causing distortion and other display problems. Exposing a CRT to a strong magnetic field, such as unshielded speakers, can cause more extreme image problems. Many modern CRTs degauss themselves automatically each time you cycle the power, but some have a manual degauss button that you must remember to use. If your CRT has a manual degauss button, use it every month or two. The degaussing circuitry in some CRTs has limited power. We have seen CRTs that were accidentally exposed to strong magnetic fields, resulting in a badly distorted image. Built-in degaussing did little or nothing. In that case, you can sometimes fix the problem by using a separate degaussing coil, available at RadioShack and similar stores for a few dollars. We have, however, seen CRTs that were so badly "magnet burned" that even a standalone degaussing coil could not completely eliminate the problem. The moral is to keep magnets away from your CRT, including those in speakers that are not video-shielded.

An incorrect yoke may have been attached to the CRT. Unless you have a lot of spare time on your hands, this is usually not worth fixing. Replace the display.

If your LCD displays no image at all and you are certain that it is receiving power and video signal, first adjust the brightness and contrast settings to higher values. If that doesn"t work, turn off the system and LCD, disconnect the LCD signal cable from the computer, and turn on the LCD by itself. It should display some sort of initialization screen, if only perhaps a "No video signal" message. If nothing lights up and no message is displayed, contact technical support for your LCD manufacturer. If your LCD supports multiple inputs, you may need to press a button to cycle through the inputs and set it to the correct one.

Unlike CRTs, where increasing the refresh rate always reduces flicker, LCDs have an optimal refresh rate that may be lower than the highest refresh rate supported. For example, a 17" LCD operating in analog mode may support 60 Hz and 75 Hz refresh. Although it sounds counterintuitive to anyone whose experience has been with CRTs, reducing the refresh rate from 75 Hz to 60 Hz may improve image stability. Check the manual to determine the optimum refresh rate for your LCD, and set your video adapter to use that rate.

First, try setting the optimal refresh rate as described above. If that doesn"t solve the problem and you are using an analog interface, there are several possible causes, most of which are due to poor synchronization between the video adapter clock and the display clock, or to phase problems. If your LCD has an auto-adjust, auto-setup, or auto-synchronize option, try using that first. If not, try adjusting the phase and/or clock settings manually until you have a usable image. If you are using an extension or longer than standard video cable, try connecting the standard video cable that was supplied with the display. Long analog video cables exacerbate sync problems. Also, if you are using a KVM switch, particularly a manual model, try instead connecting the LCD directly to the video adapter. Many LCDs are difficult or impossible to synchronize if you use a KVM switch. If you are unable to achieve proper synchronization, try connecting the LCD to a different computer. If you are unable to achieve synchronization on the second computer, the LCD may be defective. Finally, note that some models of video adapter simply don"t function well with some models of LCD.

If the screen is displaying a full, stable image, but that image is of poor quality, first verify that the display is not connected through a KVM switch or using an extension cable. If so, connect the display directly to the video adapter using the standard cable. If that is already the case, adjust the brightness, contrast, and focus controls. If you are unable to get a proper image using these controls, the problem is most likely a clock or phase mismatch, which you can cure by taking the steps described in the preceding item.

The best way to adjust clock and phase is to use auto-adjust first. Check the utility and driver CD that came with the monitor. It may have a wizard or at least the appropriate background screens to use while adjusting phase and clock settings. If not, go to the Windows Start menu and select Shutdown. When the screen goes gray and the Windows Shutdown dialog appears, leave that dialog onscreen, but ignore it. Use the gray screen to adjust clock and phase manually. Any problems with clock and phase and any changes you make to the clock and phase settings are clearly evident on the gray screen.

Always adjust clock first. Clock is usually not a problem if you have used the auto-adjust feature of your monitor, but if you do have clock problems they will be evident as large vertical bars on your screen. Tweak the clock setting until those bars disappear. Then adjust phase. Phase problems are evident as thin black lines running horizontally across the screen. Adjust phase until the lines disappear or are minimized.

Not all analog video cards synchronize perfectly with flat panels. The gray Shutdown screen exaggerates the problem, so don"t worry if very tiny movements are visible after you"ve adjusted clock and phase as well as possible. After you"ve set the clock and phase controls for the best image possible on the gray screen, cancel Shutdown and the image should be optimized.

Your video card is supplying a video signal at a bandwidth that is above or below the ability of your LCD to display. Reset your video parameters to be within the range supported by the LCD. If necessary, temporarily connect a different display or start Windows in Safe Mode and choose standard VGA in order to change video settings.

This occurs when you run an LCD at other than its native resolution. For example, if you have a 19" LCD with native 1280x1024 resolution but have your display adapter set to 1024x768, your LCD attempts to display those 1024x768 pixels at full screen size, which physically corresponds to 1280x1024 pixels. The pixel extrapolation needed to fill the screen with the smaller image results in artifacts such as blocky or poorly rendered text, jaggy lines, and so on. Either set your video adapter to display the native resolution of the LCD, or set your LCD to display the lower-resolution image without stretching the display (a feature sometimes referred to as display expansion), so that pixels are displayed 1:1, which results in the lower resolution using less than the entire screen.

This is a characteristic of LCDs, particularly older and inexpensive models, caused by defective pixels. Manufacturers set a threshold number below which they consider a display acceptable. That number varies with the manufacturer, the model, and the size of the display, but is typically in the range of 5 to 10 pixels. (Better LCDs nowadays usually have zero dead pixels.) Nothing can be done to fix defective pixels. Manufacturers will not replace LCDs under warranty unless the number of defective pixels exceeds the threshold number.

Some people claim that leaving the unit powered off for a day or two will "erase" a persistent after-image. Others suggest leaving a neutral gray screen (like the one used for phase adjustment) up on the screen to "equalize" the display. I dunno. FWIW, I"ve seen this problem on older Samsung panels but never on the Sony or NEC/LaCie panels I use.

Again, this is a characteristic of LCDs, particularly older and inexpensive models. The after-image occurs when the display has had the same image in one place for a long time. The after-image may persist even after you turn the display off.

Transistor-based pixels in an LCD respond more slowly than the phosphors in a CRT. The least-expensive LCDs exhibit this problem even with slow image movement, as when you drag a window. Better LCDs handle moderately fast image movement without ghosting, but exhibit the problem on fast-motion video. The best LCDs handle even fast-motion video and 3D gaming very well. The only solution to this problem is to upgrade to an LCD with faster response time.

Use the brightness control to increase image brightness. If you have set brightness to maximum and the image is still too dim, contact the display manufacturer. The CCRTs used to backlight the screen have a finite lifetime and may begin to dim as they near the end of their life.

If one or more horizontal and/or vertical lines appear on the display, first power-reset the computer and display. If the lines persist, run the auto-setup function of your display. If that does not solve the problem, power the system and display down, remove the video cable, and verify that the video plugs and jacks on both computer and display ends do not have broken or bent pins. Even if all appears correct, try a different video cable. If the problem persists, contact the display manufacturer.

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Let us start with the basics first; refresh the knowledge about TN and LCD displays in general, later we will talk about TFTs (Thin Film Transistors), how they differ from regular monochrome LCD displays. Then we will go on to the ghosting effect, so we will not only discuss the technology behind the construction of the TFT, but also some phenomena, like the ghosting effect, or grayscale inversion, that are important to understand when using an LCD TFT display.

Next, we will look at different technologies of the TFT LCD displays like TN, IPS, VA, and of course about transmissive and transflective LCD displays, because TFT displays also can be transmissive and transflective. In the last part we will talk about backlight.

Let us start with a short review of the most basic liquid crystal cell, which is the TN (twisted nematic) display. On the picture above, we can see that the light can be transmit through the cell or blocked by the liquid crystal cell using voltage. If you want to learn more about monochrome LCD displays and the basics of LCD displays, follow this link.

What is a TFT LCD display and how it is different from a monochrome LCD display? TFT is called an active display. Active, means we have one or more transistors in every cell, in every pixel and in every subpixel. TFT stands for Thin Film Transistor, transistors that are very small and very thin and are built into the pixel, so they are not somewhere outside in a controller, but they are in the pixel itself. For example, in a 55-inch TV set, the TFT display contains millions of transistors in the pixels. We do not see them, because they are very small and hidden, if we zoom in, however, we can see them in every corner of each pixel, like on the picture below.

On the picture above we can see subpixels, that are basic RGB (Red, Green, Blue) colors and a black part, with the transistors and electronic circuits. We just need to know that we have pixels, and subpixels, and each subpixel has transistors. This makes the display active, and thus is called  the TFT display. TFT displays are usually color displays, but there are also monochrome TFT displays, that are active, and have transistors, but have no colors. The colors in the TFT LCD display are typically added by color filters on each subpixel. Usually the filters are RGB, but we also have RGBW (Red, Green, Blue, White) LCD displays with added subpixels without the filter (White) to make the display brighter.

What is interesting, the white part of the RGB and RGBW screen will look exactly the same from a distance, because the lights are mixed and generate white light, but when we come closer to the screen, we will not see white light at all.

Going a little bit deeper, into the TFT cell, there is a part inside well known to us from the monochrome LCD display Riverdi University lecture. We have a cell, liquid crystal, polarizers, an ITO (Indium Tin Oxide) layer for the electrodes, and additionally an electronic circuit. Usually, the electronic circuit consists of one transistor and some capacitors to sustain the pixel state when we switch the pixel OFF and ON. In a TFT LCD display the pixels are much more complicated because apart from building the liquid crystal part, we also need to build an electronic part.

That is why TFT LCD display technologies are very expensive to manufacture. If you are familiar with electronics, you know that the transistor is a kind of switch, and it allows us to switch the pixel ON and OFF. Because it is built into the pixel itself, it can be done very quickly and be very well controlled. We can control the exact state of every pixel not only the ON and OFF states, but also all the states in between. We can switch the light of the cells ON and OFF in several steps. Usually for TFT LCD displays it will be 8-bit steps per color, so we have 256 steps of brightness for every color, and every subpixel. Because we have three subpixels, we have a 24-bit color range, that means over 16 million combinations, we can, at least theoretically, show on our TFT LCD display over 16 million distinct colors using RGB pixels.

Now that we know how the TFT LCD display works, we can now learn some practical things one of which is LCD TFT ghosting. We know how the image is created, but what happens when we have the image on the screen for a prolonged time, and how to prevent it. In LCD displays we have something called LCD ghosting. We do not see it very often, but in some displays this phenomenon still exists.

If some elements of the picture i.e., your company logo is in the same place of the screen for a long period of time, for couple of weeks, months or a year, the crystals will memorize the state and later, when we change the image, we may see some ghosting of those elements. It really depends on many conditions like temperature and even the screen image that we display on the screen for longer periods of time. When you build your application, you can use some techniques to avoid it, like very rapid contrast change and of course to avoid the positioning the same image in the same position for a longer time.

You may have seen this phenomenon already as it is common in every display technology, and even companies like Apple put information on their websites, that users may encounter this phenomenon and how to fix it. It is called image ghosting or image persistence, and even Retina displays are not free of it.

Another issue present in TFT displays, especially TN LCD displays, is grayscale inversion. This is a phenomenon that changes the colors of the screen according to the viewing angle, and it is only one-sided. When buying a TFT LCD display, first we need to check what kind of technology it is. If it is an IPS display, like the Riverdi IPS display line, then we do not need to worry about the grayscale inversion because all the viewing angles will be the same and all of them will be very high, like 80, 85, or 89 degrees. But if you buy a more common or older display technology type, like the TN (twisted nematic) display, you need to think where it will be used, because one viewing angle will be out. It may be sometimes confusing, and you need to be careful as most factories define viewing direction of the screen and mistake this with the greyscale inversion side.

On the picture above, you can see further explanation of the grayscale inversion from Wikipedia. It says that some early panels and also nowadays TN displays, have grayscale inversion not necessary up-down, but it can be any angle, you need to check in the datasheet. The reason technologies like IPS (In-Plane Switching), used in the latest Riverdi displays, or VA, were developed, was to avoid this phenomenon. Also, we do not want to brag, but the Wikipedia definition references our website.

We know already that TN (twisted nematic) displays, suffer from grayscale inversion, which means the display has one viewing side, where the image color suddenly changes. It is tricky, and you need to be careful. On the picture above there is a part of the LCD TFT specification of a TN (twisted n