canon 70d lcd screen not working quotation

Today after noon, I have worked for two hours and turned off the camera at location. On the way home i have turned on the Camera, but back LCD stopped working. Able to boot the camera and took couple of pictures without back LCD working.

1. Turned on the Camera, Took the battery and SD card out of the camera. After 5 min, I have kept the battery and SD card into the camera and turned on: LCD not working. Able to take pictures.

Hello everyone! I just wanted to ask what could be the problem with my Canon 70d? A few days earlier, while taking pictures, my camera"s LCD screen had suddenly turned black. When pressing the buttons like the menu, info, playback etc, the screen can still show it. However, when you put it back to shooting mode, the screen is still black but you can see the grid (it looks like you have the lens cap on). So I tried to press the start/stop button or even turn it off and then on again to make it go back to normal. Sometimes it goes back to normal in just one press but other times, it doesn"t. I"m not really good at explaining but feel free to ask me questions to make it more clear. I attached a picture below to give you all an idea on what it looks like.

Judging from Canon"s comments in the page for the replacement issue, this seems to happen occasionally and removing & replacing the battery is the fix.

I agree. removing and replacing the battery is not a solution.  If it happens again, I would definitely send in the camera to Canon for service because that type of issue makes the camera non-reliable and will make you worry each time you take the camera out.  And just because you camera"s serial number does not fall in the recall program, it doesn"t mean its not affected.

I don"t think anyone can say whether it will get worse or not.  Try searching more about the issue online, or wait for more comments here.  I think the Canon website has a technical chat assistant, but I don"t know if they are open in this time of crisis.

If the part is from the camera, as I cannot locate a service manual online, here is a link that shows how to replace the LCD screen in the camera. Hopefully it contains enough information for you, about opening the camera, so that access to the card reader is possible for it to be replaced.

Here is a link to some suppliers of the card reader (if that is the problem). It is not a recommendation to use any of the sellers. It is just shown to give an idea of the cost of the part.

I have a canon 70d that is just over a year old. Intermittently for short periods the lcd screen would not come on and the camera lens would constantly move in and out trying to focus. Then it would right itself and be fine for months. Now the lcd screen hardly ever comes on and the lens focuses in nd out constantly. Ever so often i can get the lcd to come on briefly but then the problem persists. Has anyone else had this problem?

Sorry, it"s the screen. What happens is I can see all of my settings on the screen, and then I push the button down to focus the lens (the same button you push to take the picture) and my screen goes black and my settings wont come back until I push the Q button. Then they are once again gone as soon as I push the button down to take the picture.

Normally when I push the button to focus my lens my settings stay on the screen and even after I take the picture the settings would be there. Now when I take the picture the screen shows the picture quickly and then is back to black again.

With the focus points I can see them through the view finder, but once again normally when I push the button on my camera to change the focal point I can see that information on my screen. It is also now gone and the screen just stays black and I have to look through my view finder and watch the little red button to change the focus point.

Unfortunately without a screen it will be difficult to set to factory defaults so I would attempt a hard reboot. In the older cameras with a date/time battery all one had to do was remove that battery but the 60D maintains date/time by another method. This procedure will often work with newer Canon DSLR"s; note that I said "often" so no guarantees. Having said that it will not damage anything.

5. If you have to wait a few hours for the battery to charge that is fine. Once you have indication it is charged, reinstall it in the camera (check it is OFF) and once the battery is installed turn the power ON. If you have successly done a hard reset you will have to reset the date and time. Obviously you will be aware of this by a working screen, hopefully. Good luck!

Sorry, it"s the screen. What happens is I can see all of my settings on the screen, and then I push the button down to focus the lens (the same button you push to take the picture) and my screen goes black and my settings wont come back until I push the Q button. Then they are once again gone as soon as I push the button down to take the picture.

Normally when I push the button to focus my lens my settings stay on the screen and even after I take the picture the settings would be there. Now when I take the picture the screen shows the picture quickly and then is back to black again.

With the focus points I can see them through the view finder, but once again normally when I push the button on my camera to change the focal point I can see that information on my screen. It is also now gone and the screen just stays black and I have to look through my view finder and watch the little red button to change the focus point.

Switch your Mode Dial to Tv (Shutter priority) and you can start taking creative control over your shutter speeds. The beauty of this mode is that you set the shutter speed you want and the camera will set an aperture to work with your chosen shutter speed. You can leave the camera on Auto ISO if you"re not sure what you need, and again the camera will adjust the ISO to give a correct value for the light levels, thereby ensuring that the exposure stays in range.

The way you switch your camera into the bulb mode depends on your particular camera model. Some EOS models have a ‘B’ (for bulb mode) position on their mode dial. If you don’t have a dedicated bulb position marked, select ‘M’ for manual and then reduce the shutter speed down to 30 seconds. If you continue to reduce the shutter speed past this point, the camera will switch into bulb mode and the word ‘bulb’ will appear in the viewfinder display or on the Q screen.

If your camera doesn’t have a B marked on the mode dial, then you can access bulb mode via manual mode. Simply reduce the shutter speed to 30 seconds, then take it one click further to enter bulb mode. The word ‘BULB’ will appear on-screen next to M.

There are some simple rules to help you get started when shooting with bulb mode.Because you are operating your camera manually, it will not suggest an exposure. Initially, to help gauge the correct shutter speed, set your camera to shutter-priority (Tv) mode and test the exposure at the default maximum of 30 seconds, with the lowest available ISO settings. If the aperture values flashes when you half-press the shutter button, then there is too much light and your image will be overexposed. If this happens, you either need to return when there is less light or use a Neutral Density filter. If the aperture doesn’t flash, then 30 seconds is a good starting point.

Make an exposure, then view on the LCD screen. Modify the settings if necessary. Small changes will not be significant. Double or halve the exposure time and view the image again.

With EOS cameras, long ‘bulb’ exposures are usually triggered using a simple electrical remote switch such as the Canon RS-80N3 or Canon RS-60E3. These devices have a shutter button that can be locked into position to keep the shutter open indefinitely. If you tried to trigger a bulb exposure using just the normal shutter button you would have to hold your finger on the button for the duration of the exposure, which is not very practical.

If you have a compatible camera, one of the most convenient ways to control a bulb exposure is to use Canon’s RC-6 remote trigger. Set the camera’s drive mode to self-timer/remote and then press the button on the remote control unit to open the shutter. Press it again to close the shutter. The RC-6 has a range of up to five metres when pointing directly at the sensor on the front of the camera, but it can also be used from behind the camera provided it’s angled towards the front sensor (right). During the exposure a timer counts up the seconds. If you have a camera compatible with the RC-6, using this technique is much easier than attaching a cable to the remote socket.

Recently available is the BR-E1 from Canon – an alternative wireless remote which doesn"t require line-of-sight. It"s only compatible with most EOS cameras that feature Bluetooth, making this little remote an ideal tool for controlling your long exposure shots.

If your camera is Wi-Fi compatible, then you can use Canon’s free dedicated app, Camera Connect, to remotely control and fire your camera from your smartphone or tablet.

As well as using bulb mode for smooth water effects and dreamy clouds, longer exposure times also lend themselves to astrophotography. Canon EOS 6D, 39 seconds.Kayvan MazharviaUnsplash

You can also use Live View with an ND filter. Canon’s Dual Pixel CMOS sensor-based focusing system nowadays is rated to a far lower EV rating than the standard focusing in DSLRs, often able to see in light levels two or three stops below what was previously possible.

An extended exposure can even give water a misty appearance. When shooting in daylight, an ND filter is essential to achieve long shutter speeds. Canon EOS 5D Mark II, 148 seconds at f16. © Billy Stock.

If you’re struggling to get your settings right, try the step-by-step process above in Tv mode, before switching to Manual mode. This way you’ll be able to tell whether or not the effect you’re after is achievable in the current conditions and light levels.

As for now, lens is mechanically completely sorted and working after just one evening of tinkering and practically for free. With some critical findings about inner works of this lens.

I have a Tamron 17-50 that have some “fractal” patterns on the front element. I treated it as fungus, and as it didn’t dissapear, so I guess it is a cement issue. I bought another 17-50 with broken electronics as donor, and I plan to change the front element, as it is much easier than reparing the electronics (probably a broken flex circuit). Do you know if I need to do any adjustment to the front element after replacing it?

I don’t know, how exactly the Tamron 17-50 is, but You can find out quickly: if there will be a possibility of turning the front lens after loosening of the 3 screws , then has an axial adjustment, which normally adjusts the focus on infinity to be on the same position for 17mm and 50 mm. If not, another methd for Tamron is to use some washers under the 3 scruws, which go in from the outside. BE CAREFUL BY LOOSENING, as they are NOT ALWAYS of the same size – they adjust by some Tamrons (150-600 for ex) the tilt of the front lens – so the right-left and up-down side focus.

Hello, I have been reading some from your blog and I would like to say thank you for such a great resource. Sadly, there is few out there. I, myself have been tinkering with my lens and tried to restore the ultrasonic motor that was working poorly. While cleaning it, I accidentally broke this plastic/acrylic half moon ring that is moving in a circular motion and being read with some sort of sensor with a small plastic piece on it as well. I believe you call it “optical encoder ring(I might be wrong here?). It tried to put it back together with glue and polish it but that made the “encoding (?”) disappear. What would be your best suggestion on how to move forward now? It would be really sad if I had to throw away the whole lens because this little plastic thing is broken and there is no spare parts